[FOR SALE] Charging System Bulkhead Wire Around

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crackedback

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I started building bulkhead wire arounds. The idea is to remove the bulkhead connectors and resistance in the circuit from the charging wires. I have two set ups available. One is 6ga wire, the other is an 8ga wire with a 12ga fusible link. The 8ga wiring solution would be OK for alternators up to about 90 amps. The 6ga would be OK to about 120 amps in most situations. Most of the time the alternator is not providing maximum output.

6ga wire around
6GA_Wire_around1.jpg


8ga wire around
Wire%20around.jpg


I use as much US sourced wire as possible. It's getting tougher to find US sourced fusible link.

Wire set ups are $30-40 depending on length + shipping from Indio, CA
I do provide discounts for customer loyalty and multiple items purchased at same time.

PM here or email to robule1 at yahoo dot com


Thanks for the ad space.

Rob
 
Can you show how it looks in a car
 
How are you connecting this wire? Alt. to Bat terminal of Starter Relay and leaving old Alt. to Bulkhead wire in place?
 
Can you show how it looks in a car

Runs in the exact same path as the original wiring harness. I could probably heat shrink the red line to help conceal it when running the OEM path.



How are you connecting this wire? Alt. to Bat terminal of Starter Relay and leaving old Alt. to Bulkhead wire in place?

Alt to Starter Relay is the connections. Yes, I would suggest leaving the original wire connected at the alt, as it will continue to feed the interior needs. Take the ammeter out of the circuit by linking the to connections or use a butt connector.
 
Confused here Rob. Does a wire run thru bulkhead connector (after drilling out bh)?? Similar to Mad Electrical upgrade??
Sorry....I think I need a schematic....:violent1:
 
This wire runs from alt charge stud to starter relay, never inside the car.

You don't NEED to drill anything out once you remove the OEM charging circuit. You can likely get away with leaving the bulkhead as is because the load is gone. Headlight relays remove even more of the load from the bulkhead. If the bulkhead connectors are burned out, then it needs attention.
 
Do you still need to bypass the ammeter or can you to use this wire?

The ammeter is inaccurate with the installation of this wire and I would disconnect it totally from the system. Install a voltmeter. I know a few guys that bought a digital voltmeter that plugs into a cigarette lighter, works well and no extra gauges mounted to the dash, etc.
 
If you'd like to contact me via e-mail

robule1 at yahoo dot com

Thanks
 
alternator wire fit was perfect. 14.1=14.3 constant. 1st time ever headlights don't dim at idle.
Thanks for making these.
 
alternator wire fit was perfect. 14.1=14.3 constant. 1st time ever headlights don't dim at idle.
Thanks for making these.

Awesome that you are happy with the wire around set up. Thanks for the purchase.

Rob
 
Rob,

I already installed your headlight relay system, converted from amp to volt gauge, soldered the two wires from the amp meter together and shrunk wrapped them . Now to do this upgrade on my 72 Demon 340 all I have to do is run this wire from the charging stud on the alt. to the Battery side of the starter relay. Is this correct? Do I have to measure the length of the wire I need?

Thanks
Tom
 
Rob,

I already installed your headlight relay system, converted from amp to volt gauge, soldered the two wires from the amp meter together and shrunk wrapped them . Now to do this upgrade on my 72 Demon 340 all I have to do is run this wire from the charging stud on the alt. to the Battery side of the starter relay. Is this correct? Do I have to measure the length of the wire I need?

Thanks
Tom

Your description of the installation is correct, and I'd bet he already knows the length.
Basically it completely avoids the bulkhead connector and eliminates all that load under the dash for the charging system.
 
Rob,

I already installed your headlight relay system, converted from amp to volt gauge, soldered the two wires from the amp meter together and shrunk wrapped them . Now to do this upgrade on my 72 Demon 340 all I have to do is run this wire from the charging stud on the alt. to the Battery side of the starter relay. Is this correct? Do I have to measure the length of the wire I need?

Thanks
Tom

Tom,

I have the lengths in a database. No need to measure.

IIRC, your relays are under the battery tray. After installing the wire around, you could remove the headlight power wires from the alt stud, shorten up wire runs and move it to the starter relay stud. Fewer wires running across your firewall and makes the alt stud less busy.

Let me know if you'd like one and I can get it done for you.

Rob
 
My question is the way I'm seeing it, your first 2 pictures show the wires with 2 ends, but the third picture shows 3. Am I missing something?
 
My question is the way I'm seeing it, your first 2 pictures show the wires with 2 ends, but the third picture shows 3. Am I missing something?

In the 3rd pic it has the red boot/cover on it, in the pic its 1/2 way "up" the wire instead of at the end when wire is installed.
 
Well, I just found the time to install my wire around ( about 15 min. total). It works great, my headlights are brighter than ever. It complements the headlight relay kit very well. I just wanted to take a second to thank Rob for making a quality product for a fair price.
Tom
 
You leave the original wire hooked up to power the under the dash components you do not remove the bulkhead connector. This just runs from the alt. to the + side of the starter solenoid .
 
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