OneOfMany
Well-Known Member
Unbelievable work.. I wouldn't have even considered trying to sell a piece like that, never mind restore it. Amazing stuff there chicky..
Grant
Grant
Cuda Console Restoration
- Thread starter CudaChick1968
- Start date
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Wowza!! You sure put your skills to the test there Leanna :cheers:
pettybludart needs a set of tail light's on his 66 dart dun up :glasses7:
pettybludart needs a set of tail light's on his 66 dart dun up :glasses7:
Thanks everyone!! :-D
The good thing about powder is that you can just clean it up with a damp car wash towel and keep it looking new for years. (By the way RedFish, that Cuda hood insert you donated awhile back is next on my "experimentation list" -- I have high hopes for them too.)
Bulletproof after curing, yes. Touchy to mix, no. What I get is a single stage / no mix from Permatex ... just knead the 1 ounce tube a bit and you're ready to go. It's sandable, grindable, easy to work with and good to 2000 degrees so it's perfect under my powder work. The only drawback is that it's $20 for an ounce, but a little goes a long way. I used about a half a tube on this entire console ... one very thin coat here and there at a time. Each takes 4 hours to set up.
Thanks Grant!!
I appreciate ya all checking it out.
The good thing about powder is that you can just clean it up with a damp car wash towel and keep it looking new for years. (By the way RedFish, that Cuda hood insert you donated awhile back is next on my "experimentation list" -- I have high hopes for them too.)
Bulletproof after curing, yes. Touchy to mix, no. What I get is a single stage / no mix from Permatex ... just knead the 1 ounce tube a bit and you're ready to go. It's sandable, grindable, easy to work with and good to 2000 degrees so it's perfect under my powder work. The only drawback is that it's $20 for an ounce, but a little goes a long way. I used about a half a tube on this entire console ... one very thin coat here and there at a time. Each takes 4 hours to set up.
Thanks Grant!!
I appreciate ya all checking it out.
Great work, Leanna! I wouldn't have even considered using those parts shown in the "before" pics. I can't believe you were able to get them looking so good.
You're living up to the old saying: "The difficult we do everyday, the impossible just takes a little longer".
You're living up to the old saying: "The difficult we do everyday, the impossible just takes a little longer".
Heh hehhh ... thanks Ken. I might have to add that to the website somewhere. LOL!!! :-D
BlueFish67
Active Member
Leanna, you never cease to amaze. I'd have taken that in my '68 any day. Actually, since my car was just a nice driver, I might have requested the non-shiny parts be blue to match the interior...
Sean
Sean
Thank you Sean!!! :-D
Thunder
Well-Known Member
That is very awesome work. I've got a couple of swans I'm going to have to send to ya. If I can get the studs out. Awesome again.:coffee2:
dusted72
Thanks Hemiroid!!!!
Not shocked at all. You guys acted like you expected anything less of our Mistress of Metal. Everything she puts her hands on turns to gold. Great work Leanna!! Looks great and will last a long, one less console without a lid now. Those High Schoolers will be happy to see it.
smlveightis
Confused in Confusion
Great work Leanna!
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
Great work Leanna!
Just curious, do you or anyone else know why does pot metal pit so badly?
I have a console top similar to this one, and it's sad that it is pitted so bad.
It was in a '74 Hang 10 Dart Sport i bought for parts that was very rusty. (floors and everything) It was in a very damp environment for years.
The only thing i can think of is the part being exposed to the elements with lots of moisture etc.
I've seen tail light bezels pitted badly, but i just wrote it off as salt and moisture exposure over time.
That's hardly the environment that a console top is subject to so i am not sure.......
Thanks for your tips and the info in this thread as always!
(After all, you are the ''Mistress of Metal'')
lol!
Tom.
Just curious, do you or anyone else know why does pot metal pit so badly?
I have a console top similar to this one, and it's sad that it is pitted so bad.
It was in a '74 Hang 10 Dart Sport i bought for parts that was very rusty. (floors and everything) It was in a very damp environment for years.
The only thing i can think of is the part being exposed to the elements with lots of moisture etc.
I've seen tail light bezels pitted badly, but i just wrote it off as salt and moisture exposure over time.
That's hardly the environment that a console top is subject to so i am not sure.......
Thanks for your tips and the info in this thread as always!
(After all, you are the ''Mistress of Metal'')
lol!
Tom.
Wow, thanks for the fabulous commentary! :-D
Dartnut, I can't say it any better than Wikipedia (with some emphasis added):
Pot metal
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Pot metal, also known as monkey metal, white metal or die-cast zinc, is a colloquial term that refers to alloys that consist of inexpensive, low-melting point metals used to make fast, inexpensive castings.
There is no scientific metallurgical standard for pot metal; common metals in pot metal include zinc, lead, copper, tin, magnesium, aluminium, iron, and cadmium. The primary advantage of pot metal is that it is quick and easy to cast. Due to its low melting temperature no sophisticated foundry equipment is needed and specialized molds are not necessary. It is sometimes used to experiment with molds and ideas before using metals of higher quality. Examples of items created from pot metal include toys, furniture fittings, tool parts, electronics components, and automotive parts.[citation needed]
Pot metal can be prone to instability over time, as it has a tendency to bend, distort, crack, shatter, and pit with age. The low boiling point of zinc and the fast cooling of the newly-cast part often allow air bubbles to remain within the cast part, weakening the metal.
Many of the components of pot metal are susceptible to corrosion from airborne acids and other contaminants, and the internal corrosion of the metal often causes the decorative plating to flake off.[citation needed] Pot metal is not easily glued, soldered or welded.
At one time, "pot metal" referred to a copper alloy that was primarily alloyed with lead. 67% Cu, 29% Pb & 4% Sb and 80% Cu, 20% Pb were common formulations.[1]
The primary component of pot metal is zinc, but often the caster adds other metals to the mix to strengthen the cast part, improve the flow of the molten metal, or to reduce cost.[dubious – discuss] With a low melting point of 419 °C (786 °F), zinc is often alloyed with other metals including lead, tin, aluminium and copper.
[edit]See also
Babbitt (metal)
Zamak
Zinc aluminium
Zinc pest
[edit]References
^ Balfour, Edward (1885), The Cyclopædia of India and of Eastern and Southern Asia, 3 (3 ed.), London: Bernard Quaritch, p. 271
Dartnut, I can't say it any better than Wikipedia (with some emphasis added):
Pot metal
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Pot metal, also known as monkey metal, white metal or die-cast zinc, is a colloquial term that refers to alloys that consist of inexpensive, low-melting point metals used to make fast, inexpensive castings.
There is no scientific metallurgical standard for pot metal; common metals in pot metal include zinc, lead, copper, tin, magnesium, aluminium, iron, and cadmium. The primary advantage of pot metal is that it is quick and easy to cast. Due to its low melting temperature no sophisticated foundry equipment is needed and specialized molds are not necessary. It is sometimes used to experiment with molds and ideas before using metals of higher quality. Examples of items created from pot metal include toys, furniture fittings, tool parts, electronics components, and automotive parts.[citation needed]
Pot metal can be prone to instability over time, as it has a tendency to bend, distort, crack, shatter, and pit with age. The low boiling point of zinc and the fast cooling of the newly-cast part often allow air bubbles to remain within the cast part, weakening the metal.
Many of the components of pot metal are susceptible to corrosion from airborne acids and other contaminants, and the internal corrosion of the metal often causes the decorative plating to flake off.[citation needed] Pot metal is not easily glued, soldered or welded.
At one time, "pot metal" referred to a copper alloy that was primarily alloyed with lead. 67% Cu, 29% Pb & 4% Sb and 80% Cu, 20% Pb were common formulations.[1]
The primary component of pot metal is zinc, but often the caster adds other metals to the mix to strengthen the cast part, improve the flow of the molten metal, or to reduce cost.[dubious – discuss] With a low melting point of 419 °C (786 °F), zinc is often alloyed with other metals including lead, tin, aluminium and copper.
[edit]See also
Babbitt (metal)
Zamak
Zinc aluminium
Zinc pest
[edit]References
^ Balfour, Edward (1885), The Cyclopædia of India and of Eastern and Southern Asia, 3 (3 ed.), London: Bernard Quaritch, p. 271
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
Thanks Leanna.
PapstXX
Well-Known Member
Wow, that looks awesome Leanna !
Thanks Uli!!! As often as I've admired your build, I'm honored that you checked this out. :-D
Mike69barracuda
Well-Known Member
Nice job on the console. Fish Tales folks needs some of your pics posted. So they can use your services.
Thanks for the kind compliments Mike! I'm not really one to post up stuff like that randomly but if you want to share pictures at any time, I won't complain. Straight up though, nowadays I simply try to talk people out of sending me pot metal parts to restore and this is why.
Pot metal restoration is a very touchy thing overall, most especially when heat is involved such as with powder coating. Made from the leftovers at the steel plant on any given day, it can have all kinds of crap in it (even pewter with a 140-degree melting point), and there's really no way to tell until that first heating whether it's going to work out or not. Each piece is its own animal so to speak; some turn out beautifully while others blow up into a minefield of bubbles. When it does blow up, each defect has to be sanded, filled, allowed to set, sanded again and then reheated ... which can then unfortunately start the process all over again.
I never mentioned it before in this or any other thread, but the pot metal jobs I've taken on in the past usually end up biting me on the ***, plain and simple.
That console in my first post in this thread had over FIFTY FIVE HOURS of work in it. Being a first attempt for me, I gave him my customary FABO discount -- then, 10% -- and invited that customer to pay what he felt it was worth. A check for $140 showed up (which of course had to cover the return shipping too, $24.00). I ended up making $2.54 an hour and never received any referrals from him afterward or heard from him again.
I still have another FABO member's rally center caps here from January, 2016. Despite a thorough explanation of the perils of pot metal restoration ahead of time along with a direct reference to my "pot metal thread" (see my Post #6), he went ahead and had me do the work with a full understanding of what could and sometimes does happen. After seeing the After Photos on January 3, on February 26 I received a money order totaling $125 toward my $317.50 invoice. I've never heard from him again either.
Although I'm more than willing to try to help everybody whenever I can and charge a lower hourly rate than most every custom shop in existence (because I'm merely a restorer and motorhead just like you guys rather than acting like a typical business owner), results like those outlined above have made me less than enthusiastic about taking on more pot metal work. Like anyone, I don't enjoy being taken advantage of or feeling afterwards like I put my heart and soul into a project only to have a knife stuck in it later. The center cap job sadly had such an effect on me that I no longer offer FABO members a 10%-15% discount as I did for so many years before ... now they get 5% and can blame a single member for destroying it for everyone.
Pot metal restoration is a very touchy thing overall, most especially when heat is involved such as with powder coating. Made from the leftovers at the steel plant on any given day, it can have all kinds of crap in it (even pewter with a 140-degree melting point), and there's really no way to tell until that first heating whether it's going to work out or not. Each piece is its own animal so to speak; some turn out beautifully while others blow up into a minefield of bubbles. When it does blow up, each defect has to be sanded, filled, allowed to set, sanded again and then reheated ... which can then unfortunately start the process all over again.
I never mentioned it before in this or any other thread, but the pot metal jobs I've taken on in the past usually end up biting me on the ***, plain and simple.
That console in my first post in this thread had over FIFTY FIVE HOURS of work in it. Being a first attempt for me, I gave him my customary FABO discount -- then, 10% -- and invited that customer to pay what he felt it was worth. A check for $140 showed up (which of course had to cover the return shipping too, $24.00). I ended up making $2.54 an hour and never received any referrals from him afterward or heard from him again.
I still have another FABO member's rally center caps here from January, 2016. Despite a thorough explanation of the perils of pot metal restoration ahead of time along with a direct reference to my "pot metal thread" (see my Post #6), he went ahead and had me do the work with a full understanding of what could and sometimes does happen. After seeing the After Photos on January 3, on February 26 I received a money order totaling $125 toward my $317.50 invoice. I've never heard from him again either.
Although I'm more than willing to try to help everybody whenever I can and charge a lower hourly rate than most every custom shop in existence (because I'm merely a restorer and motorhead just like you guys rather than acting like a typical business owner), results like those outlined above have made me less than enthusiastic about taking on more pot metal work. Like anyone, I don't enjoy being taken advantage of or feeling afterwards like I put my heart and soul into a project only to have a knife stuck in it later. The center cap job sadly had such an effect on me that I no longer offer FABO members a 10%-15% discount as I did for so many years before ... now they get 5% and can blame a single member for destroying it for everyone.
That is a nice piece. Pot metal isnt an easy thing to work with.
But it turned out awesome.
If someone wants work done, the price is the price. I can work every day all day for free,i choose not to. Discounting your skilled work doesent do you any favours. And if the next guy waiting for parts is paying full price, why would you work for less. I have a very select few that get discounts,but even at full rate im the cheapest shop in town.
Thats great work, should never sell yourself short.
But it turned out awesome.
If someone wants work done, the price is the price. I can work every day all day for free,i choose not to. Discounting your skilled work doesent do you any favours. And if the next guy waiting for parts is paying full price, why would you work for less. I have a very select few that get discounts,but even at full rate im the cheapest shop in town.
Thats great work, should never sell yourself short.
Um,
That reminds me, it's time for lunch.
Chomp chomp!!!! Kev, you never ever fail to put a smile on my face! I miss you and Deb -- we should talk.
Thanks @Tooljunkie for the awesome compliment and sharing your thoughts. I knew at the outset I'd never get rich or retire to a tropical island doing what I do. As long as I can keep the bills paid and turn out work that both my customer and I can be proud of for a few generations, it's good enough for me.
I believe in giving our honored Armed Forces members (active / retired / Veterans) a serious discount just as a small Thank You for the sacrifices they've made on my behalf my entire life. If it weren't for them, we might be typing on this forum in German, Japanese or, God forbid, Arabic and I hold them in very high esteem. I was just an enthusiast before I opened my shop ten years ago and if it wasn't for the Barracuda Owners Group and the extensive members of FABO, I would most likely be commuting two hours a day back and forth to a law firm in Memphis or Nashville. The way I see it, the Mopar Community supported me even before I went pro in terms of both build advice on my Barracuda and affordable parts to get it back on the road, and continues to support me today when boxes of parts show up at my shop. It's the least I can do to "Pay It Forward," keep my rate reasonable, give them the absolute best work I'm capable of, and do everything in my power to keep our dying hobby alive for future generations to enjoy.
As to the "select few" who get a discount at your shop, that is your prerogative in every respect! The discounts I've offered in the past here on FABO, FBBO, Garage Journal and a few other places are usually enough to at least cover the shipping but this year's are extra special in my eyes. Celebrating the 10th Anniversary this year incited me to up the rewards to the customers -- 7% for new ones, 10% for returning customers (because I wouldn't be having a 10th anniversary without them), and 12% for Military and Law Enforcement -- and I've continued to stay busy even without it. It's just another way to Pay It Forward and hope they continue to keep coming back.
It is interesting to note that in the past, 90%+ of my business came from FABO members. Although I know there's some overlap between various Mopar-oriented websites now, I haven't had a single FABO-only-member even request a quote in over two years. The majority of my business now comes from FaceBook and The Garage Journal. I don't know what happened to cause such a decline ... unless I just talk too much and they all fall asleep now. << wink >> But I do miss this place, the people who make it such a wonderful forum to visit, and all the cool stuff they used to send me to work on.
A little history. I appreciate that.
Seniors that come for work get the benefit,shop rate but less time billed. The customers that followed me around for all my years get a break.
Your work differs from mine,as in the immense hours you spend restoring a part
All i ever get to do is fix everybodys junk that rolls up and down the road.
Thats why i bought my Barracuda and recovered my old Dart. So my lifetime of acquiring tools and skill isnt wasted. I want to leave something behind.
Learning lots here on FABO,enjoying all the threads and photos.
Seniors that come for work get the benefit,shop rate but less time billed. The customers that followed me around for all my years get a break.
Your work differs from mine,as in the immense hours you spend restoring a part
All i ever get to do is fix everybodys junk that rolls up and down the road.
Thats why i bought my Barracuda and recovered my old Dart. So my lifetime of acquiring tools and skill isnt wasted. I want to leave something behind.
Learning lots here on FABO,enjoying all the threads and photos.
Capt46
Well-Known Member
Nice Job!
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