Deathtrap, My 74 Plymouth Scamp

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AJ/FormS said:
The 5-wire harness will accept either a 4-pin ECU or a 5-pin ECU with no changes; the extra pin is just not required on the 4 pin
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See I was searching and the 5 pin harness will go to either but what it's wired to changes. So I went and got a 2 post ignition resistor and another 4 post and a starter relay. I searched and got the wiring for the 4 pin ICM and I will go through and rewire my ignition system to the 2 post resistor.
 
I'll say it again; the factory 5-pin harness will accept either ECU with no changes. The un-used side of the 4-post resister just dead ends.It was the power supply to the 5-pinner. The 4-pinner takes it's power from a different pin,no biggie.
You are free to change your wiring of course, but what happens when 500 miles from nowhere your 4-pin ECU dies?And all you can find is a 5-pin replacement....... just something to think about.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I'll say it again; the factory 5-pin harness will accept either ECU with no changes. The un-used side of the 4-post resister just dead ends.It was the power supply to the 5-pinner. The 4-pinner takes it's power from a different pin,no biggie.
You are free to change your wiring of course, but what happens when 500 miles from nowhere your 4-pin ECU dies?And all you can find is a 5-pin replacement....... just something to think about.
Click to expand...
I will have to check out the wiring then and check it. I have an EZ wiring harness and I've just been trying to figure out wiring for it. I used there diagram but I had no power to the coil.
 
HEI module you can just delete the resistors alltogether... hint hint

4Pin.jpg
 
no resistors, no Mopar box. the IGN1/IGN2 out of your ignition switch will be tied together and be the "factory voltage source"
The GM HEI module does need to be mounted to a heat sink, using heat sink compound, both are also available from any parts store.
 
I didn't realize it was honestly just swapping out those things. I thought I had to change my distbutor. I've already bought all my mopar stuff so I will just get it running with what I got. How does HEI compare to using MSD components?
 
That's a loaded question

For most streeters an MSD is way more than we need.
For most streeters, an old points system will be adequate 85% of the time or more;
the HEI makes it 100%, for 98% of streeters.


All figures may have been exaggerated for effect
 
IMO, if you are going to an aftermarket harness, and just building a fun daily driven street car to bomb around on, scare old ladies, and swoon the womenz, it doesn't get any easier or cheaper than a parts store GM HEI module
 
AJ/FormS said:
That's a loaded question

For most streeters an MSD is way more than we need.
For most streeters, an old points system will be adequate 85% of the time or more;
the HEI makes it 100%, for 98% of streeters.


All figures may have been exaggerated for effect
Click to expand...
Haha I realize this was a super general question. My thing is right now I'm just trying to get it running but the plan is to drag race it all next summer. It's one of those things I planned on swapping to a MSD 6AL2 and upgrading the whole system. But I had not really thought of running an HEI system because I didn't realize it was that easy to swap too. It brings in another factor to consider and think about.
 
Thank you guys for all the info and advice! I really appreciate it and I will run to the parts store later and probably pick up everything I need for the HEI swap. This way I've got both set ups and can figure out what I want to run.
 
You can mount the module on the firewall, inner feder, or you can even get a heatsink/mount from designed2drive.com that will put the HEI module neatly on your distributor.

Dist_Side_Wires.jpg
 
if you are going to race, I would just get it running, then direct your funds where the car asks you too, because she will not be shy about asking once you really start to hammer on her...
 
Save your money and spend it like Joe SBP says.
My 367 has a plain-Jane ignition, revs to over 7200, and goes 93 in the 1/8th, yet will idle down to 550 pulling itself around the parking lot in low gear (manual trans).
So What you say?
So save your money and spend it like Joe SBP says.
Ignition for a streeter does not need to be hi-powered. It can be. But it doesn't need to be. Unless maybe your compression is all wrong for the cam,......... Or you're running a stock TC with a 2.76 gear and a way-too-big cam,......... Or you can't tune a carburetor........
 
JoeSBP said:
if you are going to race, I would just get it running, then direct your funds where the car asks you too, because she will not be shy about asking once you really start to hammer on her...
Click to expand...
This is the most truthful thing I've heard. I'm thinking HEI will be fine to get it running for the winter. Thank you for the diagram JoeSBP!
 
Here is an update for everyone. I got the car started today! I converted it to HEI ignition last night and sorted the last bit of wiring. I got home today and started it up! I have to adjust my timing and tune on the carb, install my windshield, and bleed my brakes and I will have a driver! Hearing it start up after a year made me so happy. It's pretty cool to say that I have rewire my car by myself and it runs again. I hope to get some more solid work done this weekend so I can drive it as soon as possible. I will continue to update everyone. I can't thank you guys enough for all the help and advice. I appreciate it more then I can explain.
 
You might want to feel sorry for the rod-bearings,lol. There's not a lot of oil pressure at that low an idle, and when you whack the throttle open, ouch that's gotta hurt. But it sure sounds nice,eh?
In other news sounds like somebody's excited;you are definitely approaching the finish-line.
 
Update time!
I got my window installed and somehow managed to do it by myself. Was pretty stressful but I got it. Ended up chipping one corner but it just has to last till next month when I'm getting a new window and seal installed at a local shop. I got my master cylinder and brake booster in but it isn't feeling right. Pedal goes to the floor. So a new one is being ordered tomorrow. What's left is my carb linkage, which I posted up questions on it. Hopefully I can drive this Saturday but we will see.
 
Hey everyone. Sorry for the lack of updates, I ended up being out of state for awhile but I'm back and got some progress made. So I took a holder for my throttle cable and basically chopped it and extended it to the height I needed. Got everything mounted up and tonight I will check and see if it works. I got my new master cylinder and brake booster in and got those installed. Tonight I've got some help and will get it bled. If they bleed correctly and everything is working right hopefully I can drive it!

20171126_223008.jpg
 
When you raised the height, I guess you moved it forward about an inch or so?
A lot of guys are doing that these days . It seems the factory 4bbl brackets are disappearing and the aftermarket stuff SEEMS pricey.
 
AJ/FormS said:
When you raised the height, I guess you moved it forward about an inch or so?
A lot of guys are doing that these days . It seems the factory 4bbl brackets are disappearing and the aftermarket stuff SEEMS pricey.
Click to expand...
I ended up doing this at work so it was kind of just a guess. I have to move it forward a bit. But I think it will work well enough so I can drive it 10 miles to the truck shop where I work. I'm still debating on a Lokar throttle cable set up. But once I get it to work I will go through the car and seal up some small holes and loom all my wiring and get it nice and neat. I've been planning and I will probably end up going to a totally different fuse panel set up and making a relay set up. But that's down the road. I'm hoping to have it driving soon so I can take it to work and start doing some work on it in a nicer shop that's fully set up. Plan is to be doing bodywork in late December and January.
 
FragginDale said:
It looked a little rough but there was a drag racing sticker from 97 in the window, that got my attention. The year I was born somebody was racing this car! I got super excited and called my uncle for some help. I had no idea what I was looking at so I got him to help. (My uncle has been racing amd building mopars for years at Woodburn Dragstrip) He came on out and took a look at it with me and decided that it was a good start.
Click to expand...

I can tell you that I've lived long enough and seen enough that I don't believe in coincidences.
Is it synchronicity?
I think there are forces at work we cannot see.
Maybe someone or Someone behind you getting the car twice.
I often wonder if memories attached to cars are not part of the cars.

The wiper motors seemed to have been an afterthought from Chrysler.
The prints, (that I've seen) stop at the connector.
Makes one have to figure out what is in side the motor.
Ground is through that brass ribbon.
Basically, there is a "switch" integral to the motor gear.
And when the power is switched to the park wire in the car, power then goes to that motor switch instead of directly to the motor .
When the motor switch is in the correct position, the power to the motor is cut off via the motor switch.
It stops.
That's the extent of my knowledge on the one that I've overhauled.
It was a variable motor and a two speed switch car anyway.

So, you went HEI?
GM stuff then?
I would never run an MSD on the street, again.
I've been stranded and I want something I can unplug and put another part in to replace it.
That's all I've got to say on that. (He says in his Forrest Gump voice.)
I'm running this on my daily driver and I'm happy with it.
FBO Ignition, Distributor tuning and Carburetion Professionals, FBO Ignition systems, Ford Ignition, Mopar Ignition, Ford Distributors, Mopar Distributors, Ford distributor curving, Mopar distributor curving, HEI Ignition, MSD ignition tuning,
If you don't know, all the ECUs from the parts stores are junk.
Or at least a crap shoot.
You know what you are doing.
Carry on.
 
adriver said:
I can tell you that I've lived long enough and seen enough that I don't believe in coincidences.
Is it synchronicity?
I think there are forces at work we cannot see.
Maybe someone or Someone behind you getting the car twice.
I often wonder if memories attached to cars are not part of the cars.

The wiper motors seemed to have been an afterthought from Chrysler.
The prints, (that I've seen) stop at the connector.
Makes one have to figure out what is in side the motor.
Ground is through that brass ribbon.
Basically, there is a "switch" integral to the motor gear.
And when the power is switched to the park wire in the car, power then goes to that motor switch instead of directly to the motor .
When the motor switch is in the correct position, the power to the motor is cut off via the motor switch.
It stops.
That's the extent of my knowledge on the one that I've overhauled.
It was a variable motor and a two speed switch car anyway.

So, you went HEI?
GM stuff then?
I would never run an MSD on the street, again.
I've been stranded and I want something I can unplug and put another part in to replace it.
That's all I've got to say on that. (He says in his Forrest Gump voice.)
I'm running this on my daily driver and I'm happy with it.
FBO Ignition, Distributor tuning and Carburetion Professionals, FBO Ignition systems, Ford Ignition, Mopar Ignition, Ford Distributors, Mopar Distributors, Ford distributor curving, Mopar distributor curving, HEI Ignition, MSD ignition tuning,
If you don't know, all the ECUs from the parts stores are junk.
Or at least a crap shoot.
You know what you are doing.
Carry on.
Click to expand...

Makes you wonder sometimes! I looked at FBO and it's nice stuff, Just expensive. I went HEI for cost at the time. Most likely I will run MSD ignition parts so we will see how long those last:)
Thank you for the suggestions though!
 
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