Direct Connection Spoiler

-

NodakDuster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
248
Reaction score
28
Location
Bismarck, ND
For those of you who have a direct connection duck tail spoiler, what type bolts did you use to attach it. I bought the fiberglass version and need to attach it. I was wondering what they originally used. Thanks for any help!
 
I believe the DC spoilers are held on by plastic pin fasteners.
 
Originally the DC spoilers used plastic push rivets...

attachment.php


But the original DC spoilers are ABS, and fairly thin. The one I have is straight, not warped and only a few pockets were drilled, but a couple of those cracked. I've heard they can be warped and cracked pretty easily from some folks, although they seem a little more durable than that.

attachment.php


Still, the fiberglass versions out there are quite a bit thicker and sturdier, so I would plan on using something a little sturdier to attach them as well. I bought a set of tamper proof stainless torx screws for mine, although I haven't installed it yet. #10x3/4" stainless sheet metal screws...

$(KGrHqVHJEwE+grEuhPbBQLP2CN8qw~~60_12.JPG


http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-3-4-Stainless-Steel-Tamper-Proof-Security-Torx-Sheet-Metal-Screw-10-Qty-/230972621449?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c70a8289

The trick will be not overtightening them and cracking the spoiler, but I think the fiberglass versions will make it harder to mess it up. On the original ABS version the screw pockets sit higher than the lip, so if you screw it all the way down you bow the bottom of the screw pocket out and it can crack.

I also bought a bunch of stainless #10 washers with a neoprene backing to help keep from overtightening the screws. I bought a ton, I may even use one underneath the spoiler at each hole in addition to the one under the screw heads to help strengthen the pocket and make it harder to overtighten the screws.

$T2eC16FHJGQE9noMZIvPBQSPOLnRMg~~60_35.JPG


http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-stainless-steel-Neoprene-washers-packed-in-50-QTY-/230911225946?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c361b05a

But I may be overthinking all of that, as usual.
 
I used large diameter head rivets (7/16"-1/2") on two of my past projects back in 1983 and again in 1989 .
 

Attachments

  • past%20cars%20010.jpg
    50.7 KB · Views: 246
  • past%20cars%20013.jpg
    42.8 KB · Views: 234
look up IMCA rivets. If you use a backing washer that spoiler will not come off without the deck lid lol
 
Anyone ever try to mount one of those to an early A? Probably look pretty cool. Not sure if the contour is close.
 
How close did your guys spoiler line up with the edge of the deck lid? Mine is about 1/4 in on each side.
 
How close did your guys spoiler line up with the edge of the deck lid? Mine is about 1/4 in on each side.

Mine's closer than a 1/4" per side. But the fiberglass version off of eBay is a little shorter than the originals are. The original DC spoiler I have goes all the way out to the edge of the deck lid, the fiberglass copy is probably an 1/8" or so off the edge. Enough to be noticeable.

The fiberglass version seems to have squared off the sides a little more, the original version tapers all the way down from the top to the sides, the fiberglass copy tapers down but then has a vertical edge on the sides. Since it is just fiberglass you could do some work on the edges, just fill out that last little bit of the sides so that they're tapered instead of squared off.
 
-
Back
Top