Does '73 electric choke need exhaust heat crossover in warm climate?

-

dibbons

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2009
Messages
5,692
Reaction score
3,755
Location
La Paz, B.C.S., Mexico
I plan to swap intake manifolds one of these days, 1972 factory small block two barrel manifold/Carter BBD with divorced choke to 1973 factory four barrel manifold/ThermoQuad with divorced/electric choke w/timer thingamajig. Will I have problems with the electric choke not opening all the way if I block the exhaust heat crossover passage? Thank you.
 
The electric choke is designed to pull choke off faster in warm weather. Open circuit until its somewhat near 50 or 60 degrees.
Put choke assy in freezer,for an hour, pull it out, connect an ohmmeter to it and watch. As it warms up it should go from open circuit to a resistive circuit.
 
You list your "place" as La Plaz, Mexico? I would not think you'd NEED a choke down there. Try wiring it open first. The TQ IS a bit lean on startup. "Back in the day" I swapped a low miles 340 into what-used-to-be my 440-6 Road Runner. The choke had been damaged slightly in the accident the original car had been in, and I ran without it. I was in San Diego then (NAS Miramar, 70-74) and never really "needed" it. On cool days, it did take an extra pump or three, and a minute or two to warm up.

Ugly, ain't it? This was about 73? and I was BROKE. That engine cost me about 4-450 at the junk yard. I actually brought it to the base with the trunk lid removed and in the trunk of the 70, which had a 440 in it which ? then? went into my 426 '64 Dodge

_mg_6209cs-jpg.jpg
 
Presently, I don't use chokes on any of my vehicles that are in running condition (chokes are wired open). I ask the question because on road trips to Northern California, I definitely feel a climate change. Besides, I am trying to understand what makes these electric chokes "tic'' as well, would like to add to my general knowledge.
 
The electric is a "helper" due to the 68---later on smog regulations, was an attempt to get the choke to open quicker. The main thing that operates the choke is engine heat, not the electric heater.

Only downside to blocking a crossover, even up here in N Idaho........is maybe a little stumble before warm-up on cold days.

If your mechanical choke thermostat is properly free, working and installed, you should be able to adjust it a little "warmer". Also make sure the vacuum pull off is working.
 
The OEM electric choke assist controller was a small rectangular ceramic box with what resembles 2 of the mechanical gauge voltage limiters inside. Metal bottom attached with folded tangs. Their downfall was no sealant what so ever. Easy enough to pick it open and look inside before installing. Expect the worst.
 
I have a NOS controller, I hope it is OK. Maybe I can "seal" it before installation and ward off a future problem.
 
I don't know that you can seal it, bottling the heat inside it. The bi-metal heats and cools to function. NOS should last a good while. But again it and the small element in the well was just a choke helper. Who knows how well it would work on its on. Good luck with it.
 
Worst case scenario, I'll rig up a manual choke. Actually, a manual choke would be my first choice.

Back in the day, I did this to several carbs, all had been well type automatic. "The thing" which for me made them work well, was to (sometimes) solder a tab to the linkage to make an approprate lever. Some already have something useable. Then get TWO "choke stop" like this:

05-902stop.jpg


I would take a longer screw and lock nut and attach that to the choke lever, "lock" that screw to the lever. You have to play with the length. Screw the stop on so that it still swivels and the hole is clear

Then stuff your choke wire through the hole on that first stop, add a small spring such as out of a ball point pen, and apply the last choke stop on the end. This allows you to pull the cable "a little" work the pedal to "set" the choke, and provides a sort of "non solid" connection. Worked very well when adjusted.
 
-
Back
Top