Don't understand cams

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norton

Doing the best that I can
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Is this cam good to use in a 72- 340 with factory style rockers, lifters and push rods ?
Also, will this make my engine have a real lumpy idle ?
Sorry for a stupid question, but I've never understood camshaft, lifts and durations.
What would factory specs be for a 1972- 340 engine?
Cam.jpg
 
That's a lot of cam and would not be happy in an otherwise stock 340. Would need more compression, gear and convertor not to mention valve springs and rocker gear.
 
That's a lot of cam and would not be happy in an otherwise stock 340. Would need more compression, gear and convertor not to mention valve springs and rocker gear.
Thanks for your help.
So what should I look for that will give me the stock performance or close to it ?
 
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Stick with hydraulic in the 210-220 at .050 and .440-.475 lift

Be peppier than stock but still use srock rocker gear. Get springs and retainers to match the cam.
 
You can buy the 340 "resto" cam from Chrysler Part # P4452782 It has the original factory specs.
Another option would be the Lunati Voodoo Cam Part # 10200700
 
I was in the same boat before I built my motor as I knew very little about cam duration and separation numbers and what they mean for the motor and how it sounds as well as runs.
I read everything I could find and discussed it with people who did know, just like you are doing now and finally was comfortable making some of my own decisions on it.

(I ended up with a cam REALLY close to what crackedback just posted for you, and I'm really happy with it):D

Mine is 212-224 and .512 lift on a 110 lobe separation angle and has just a light lope to it but smooth's out the instant you touch the throttle.
 
You can buy the 340 "resto" cam from Chrysler Part # P4452782 It has the original factory specs.
Another option would be the Lunati Voodoo Cam Part # 10200700

The cam I have is not lumpy at all, and is fantastic around town. I have the Lunati Voodoo hydraulic flat tappet 10200701 in my 318 and I love it. Much better than the stock cam. I am running it with my stock converter and 2.73 7 1/4 rear end (soon to be upgraded to something between 3.55 and 4.10, since my commute is only 5 miles and the track is only 20 miles away).

Remember, lots of assembly lube and break in oil!
 
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Well, I'll start with the most elementary, not knowing if you know anything about cams. Duration is how long the valve will stay open. Lift is how far the valve comes open. This is only the beginning.
I'll just say this, more is not always better. It has to be fitting to the application. In other words, it's like lifting weights. You wouldn't ask a 15 yr old to work out with 500 lbs curling. The right amount to do the body the best, and the same is true for motors. The right one per the rest of the motor....
 
You can buy the 340 "resto" cam from Chrysler Part # P4452782 It has the original factory specs.
Another option would be the Lunati Voodoo Cam Part # 10200700

Yup, if you want stock performance you can't beat this solution.

Last cam I ran in my 340 with factory rockers was an isky 240/.480/108. I didn't car for it much. I actually liked the factory cam better.
 
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If a lump idle is all you're after, yeah, that's the cam for you.
 
There isn't a straight answer to this question. It also has to do with compression, tune, cubic inch, heads, and in regards to the cam, LSA.

I'm going to generally tell you [email protected].

Does a 112 / 114 LSA improve idle quality with bigger cams...and when the idle starts to deteriorate can you expect loss of lower rpm torque and an improvement in hi rpm power?I realize these are general statements, but hoping to help the poster as well as others.
 
Does a 112 / 114 LSA improve idle quality with bigger cams...and when the idle starts to deteriorate can you expect loss of lower rpm torque and an improvement in hi rpm power?I realize these are general statements, but hoping to help the poster as well as others.


Nope. Idle quality is MOSTLY a tune up issue, and seat timing. LSA gets bitched at, but really affects idle very little. It is very important though.
 
That's not true.

I have 2 engines, same cubic inch, same compression, same heads. One has a 104LSA and the other a 112. The other specs (lift and duration @.050) are all the same. One idles like a top fuel dragster, the other like a puppy.

The ability of it to start properly and be throttle responsive, yes, tuning has a very large part to do with that.

An email from Jim Laroy...

"The wider lobe separation angle closes the intake valve later and reduces cylinder pressure, so that is where it's detonation resistance comes from. Really wide lobe separation angles are used in boosted applications. Many later model engines use wide lobe separation angles to reduce overlap for idle quality and fuel economy.

The only reason I use a wider lobe separation angle is to smooth out the idle and increase idle vacuum. "


Yellow rose and I disagree on this, starkly. You'll have to decide for yourself. But look at some Thumpr cams from comp and check out the LSA's.
 
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That's not true.

I have 2 engines, same cubic inch, same compression, same heads. One has a 104LSA and the other a 112. The other specs (lift and duration @.050) are all the same. One idles like a top fuel dragster, the other like a puppy.

The ability of it to start properly and be throttle responsive, yes, tuning has a very large part to do with that.

An email from Jim Laroy...

"The wider lobe separation angle closes the intake valve later and reduces cylinder pressure, so that is where it's detonation resistance comes from. Really wide lobe separation angles are used in boosted applications. Many later model engines use wide lobe separation angles to reduce overlap for idle quality and fuel economy.

The only reason I use a wider lobe separation angle is to smooth out the idle and increase idle vacuum. "



FOR THE LAST TIME. LSA HAS VERY LITTLE EFFECT ON IDLE.




You changed the EVENTS when you moved the LSA.

When you get the EVENTS correct, you'd find out that LSA has very little to do with idle.


The biggest deal is emissions and catalytic converters. One of the best cam grinders I know cut his teeth moving the LSA .25* to see its affects on emissions. GM paid him an assload of money to learn it.


So you can keep repeating what is wrong. You'll still be wrong.



Edit: just like in the last line of the above post, the wrong LSA will kill power. Every time. That's what your guy told you. It's nothing new. GM did it 60 years ago. It was stupid then.

There is a correct LSA for every application. To open up the LSA to clean up your tune up is stupid.

Obviously, power adders require a wider LSA. So do very efficient heads. If your heads take stock rockers, you don't have an efficient head.
 
A different tune isn't going to make a choppy, lopey, radical idle disappear. It may make it more livable.

I've never said widening the LSA didn't affect power. But in the dyno tests I posted in the other thread. The wider LSA made more tq and hp.

340 Head/Cam upgrade before vs after with results

I get that you hate wider LSA cams. We'll agree to disagree.
 
A different tune isn't going to make a choppy, lopey, radical idle disappear. It may make it more livable.

I've never said widening the LSA didn't affect power. But in the dyno tests I posted in the other thread. The wider LSA made more tq and hp.

340 Head/Cam upgrade before vs after with results

I get that you hate wider LSA cams. We'll agree to disagree.


I don't hate LSA. That's stupid. What I hate is someone repeating error.

I read the above thread.

Who said what is wide and what is narrow? It's like a long rod or long tube header. There is no such thing.

If you are manipulating LSA to fix timing events you are doing it wrong. I know. I have discussed it at with with certain people who don't give a frosty **** if something makes power or not. They want to sell you cam. It's all about marketing. Comp started this **** years ago with the 110 LSA 4 ahead as standard and all the comic books wrote about how sweet it is. In the real world, were your flow bench test, dyno results and time slips must match and matter, then you'd get how stupid it sounds to tell someone to move the LSA to smooth out the idle.

I laugh when I see some of these cams with 5, 8, or 10 degrees of split between the intake and exhaust. You can be sure that most of the time it's a power loser. It's done by the cam grinder who is trying to squeeze more RPM out of a given duration than is reasonable. They jack a bunch of exhaust timing in it (or reduce intake duration....depends on who you ask) and blow the LSA out to try and get The RPM up where they want it. They do this because they think you, the customer, is too stupid to know how often you put your foot in it. They think you are too stupid to tune up your ****. So they do things you normally wouldn't. This actually reduces peak HP, average HP, flattens out the torque curve to the point of killing shift recovery.

I see it all the time. But you can come on the web and tell us how bad *** your **** is.

I spend, on average, an hour on the phone, MINIMUM, before I end up with a cam. If there is no meeting of the minds with the cam grinder, I call another one. Eventually, I either convince them I'm correct, they convince me I'm wrong (it happens quit a bit) or I just tell them to grind what I want and if it sucks, it's on me.

You can ride the LSA thing like the 2 dollar ***** it is. Still won't make you correct.
 
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i put the lunati 701 in wifes 72 340 duster, very nice streetable cam, just a hint at idle there might be something in there, 727,323s, stock torque converter, it will positively fry 295/15 mickey thompsons
 
i put the lunati 701 in wifes 72 340 duster, very nice streetable cam, just a hint at idle there might be something in there, 727,323s, stock torque converter, it will positively fry 295/15 mickey thompsons

What are the specs of that 340? I'm considering that cam for my dad's 360. Your PM box is full btw. Thanks.
 
Lunati ...701 .454 / .475 213 / 220 112 1000 - 5500
...702 .475 / .494 220 / 226 112 1400 - 5800

for those using these cams,i'm guessing a nice smooth idle and good lo speed torque?
 
stock piston 72 340, 302 heads , 15/8 hedman headers , holley street dominator, 750 quick fuel , switching to 670 avenger next spring, factory distributor with fbo limiter plate. cant figure out how to empty my pm box!
 
stock piston 72 340, 302 heads , 15/8 hedman headers , holley street dominator, 750 quick fuel , switching to 670 avenger next spring, factory distributor with fbo limiter plate. cant figure out how to empty my pm box!

Did you ever calculate how much compression you had? What did you use for valve springs and retainers? Sounds like a solid low maintenance combo.

To delete your pm's, click on the box next to them and select "leave conversation."
 
Lunati ...701 .454 / .475 213 / 220 112 1000 - 5500
...702 .475 / .494 220 / 226 112 1400 - 5800

for those using these cams,i'm guessing a nice smooth idle and good lo speed torque?
Did you ever calculate how much compression you had? What did you use for valve springs and retainers? Sounds like a solid low maintenance combo.

To delete your pm's, click on the box next to them and select "leave conversation."
thanks, never did figure compression ratio, i used the thicker felpros instesd of the thin head gaskets, springs on the 302s were factory 340s, admittedly they are tired though, going for comp 901s next year
 
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