Engine Is Out, Now What?

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ChrisRomello

ChrisRomello

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I just pulled The /6 out of my 65 Valiant today to continue with my restoration. I plan on using my rainy/blazing hot days to tinker in it in the shop. I already know what I want to do with it cosmetically, and I plan on replacing the water pump, exhaust/intake manifold studs, and a few other misc items. What I'm wondering is if there are things that I need to look out for while I inspect it that commonly wear out that I should replace. The engine ran beautifully before I started taking the car apart but I'm assuming that it burns oil because my aunt would always keep a quart of oil in the trunk. Thanks for your help!
 
Start by examining the spark plugs which can tell you more about how the engine was running. If any look wrong, such as oil deposits, you might think about an engine oil analysis. It costs about $30 but could save a lot of work or zero in on any problems.
 
Any idea of the mileage on this engine? For the age of it, you will likely need the valve seals replaced. That can easily cause oil consumption (mostly from the intake valves). Bearings could only be looked at it you tear the engine apart. If you go that far, you may as well replace them. Timing chain could be slack, again, hard to tell without looking. I have a 65 Belvedere 225 with just over 60,000 miles (original) and I assumed the timing chain and gear would need replacing but they were nice and tight, like new almost. But, if you are going to tear it down, you may as well replace things now. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Check the Bulk Head connections and wiring while the engine is out. I didn't do that and am sorry for it now.
 
Replace the freeze plugs while you have it out. Also a good time to flush the motors cooling system. Plus the thoughts listed before
 
While the engine is out upgrade your brake system. Whether you go to disc or just changing over to dual reservoir Master Cylinder, you've got plenty of room to work.
 
Ill second the core plug R&R and a good block flush as well as valve seals. I took about a 1/4 lb of fine dried sludge from the water jackets of a 64 273. The core plugs in the back were packed solid, I had to get a screwdriver to loosen it up to flush out. I used a hose, then a pressure washer in the front plug and blew everything out the sides and back core holes. Nasty work as the stuff flies everywhere. I found what looked like a coat hanger sized wire in my 67 slant water jacket. wtf?
Valve seals were gone. I found them all in pieces in the oil pan. They just get brittle and break apart over 50 years. timing chain is cheap insurance to change out.
 
pishta said:
Ill second the core plug R&R and a good block flush as well as valve seals. I took about a 1/4 lb of fine dried sludge from the water jackets of a 64 273. The core plugs in the back were packed solid, I had to get a screwdriver to loosen it up to flush out. I used a hose, then a pressure washer in the front plug and blew everything out the sides and back core holes. Nasty work as the stuff flies everywhere. I found what looked like a coat hanger sized wire in my 67 slant water jacket. wtf?
Valve seals were gone. I found them all in pieces in the oil pan. They just get brittle and break apart over 50 years. timing chain is cheap insurance to change out.
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I found that same piece of wire in other blocks too. Must be part of casting process
 
A shame you didn't measure compression while it was in. You can judge by turning it over by hand and feeling for each cylinder. If you hear each one slowly hiss down, you have excellent compression (piston rings and valves). If you pull the oil pan, change the rear seal. It is integral w/ the rear bearing cap, so inspect that main bearing. If you see copper, replace all main bearings, which you can do from below. In my experience, rod bearings wear sooner. Inspect at least one. I would pull the front crank damper-pulley and timing cover, and replace the front crank seal. If the timing chain has noticeable wear, replace it and the sprockets. If you have a large nylon sprocket, replace it since they lose teeth (my 65 383, don't know if slants did). You can buy a better silicone oil pan and valve cover seal from Real Gaskets in TN. About $35 ea, but probably worth it if you don't like oil spots on the driveway.

But, don't touch any hard parts above unless you either already know what you are doing or will read up. A neophyte who wings it could mess up a perfectly good engine.
 
ChrisRomello said:
The engine ran beautifully before I started taking the car apart but I'm assuming that it burns oil because my aunt would always keep a quart of oil in the trunk. Thanks for your help!
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Probably a good assumption. The timing chain is a good source of poor running if worn so that is a good suggestion. Taking the oil pan off is the easy way to R&R the timing cover to pan gaskets so I would do that and look in the pan for a lot of sludge or anything similar.

Sludge and crud in the bottom of the block will happen if the antifreeze got old and was never or rerely changed; that too is common. I pulled the block drain pug on my '62 /6 and nothing came out..... 'til I poked in the hole a while and finally broke through the 1+" of sludge in the bottom of the block!

And YES on the dual master cylinder. That is the only intentional non-original thing on my '62, and is for added safety. A '67 Coronet drum/drum MC fit right on and it is the right piston size to work with my earlier B-body brakes. (I have not thought out if it may best to have a different size on your early A-body.)
 
Dartswinger70 said:
Put a 318 in and away you go....
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So simple? Different transmission, steering linkage, throttle linkage, radiator, engine harness, maybe different driveshaft, perhaps larger rear-end, then LBP front end and 4 new wheels & tires, ...
 
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