EZ Wiring Mini 20 Circuit Installation

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Pompis

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Hey FABO this thread will show my installation on the EZ wiring harness. It has been much preparation to just getting started have read a ton of threads. Then I have carefully looked at diagrams and looked at the original harness to get hold of how all things works and goes together. Bought terminals, connectors, wire, pliers and shrink wrap maybe some more things too. Made a bracket at work to mount the fuse panel. Here we go:

It looked so bad before under the hood and the rest of the car.
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I know it doesn't looks better without the spaghetti wiring but it's a later project get it nice and shiny. I did take many picture before I removed the wires for references.
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Reference pictures.
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Everything's out.
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This is the bracket I've made. Mounted the fuse panel base to it.
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Ignition switch connectors. They fit right in the GM connector that's mounted at the EZ harness.
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Since the EZ harness only include power feed wire to the wipers I had to bought some wires and mounted them to the wiper connector.
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Since I don't wanted to use butt connectors on the original turn signal connector I instead bought some other connectors and terminals to solve that problem.
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looks really good so far. what are you going to do for a headlight switch? most of these harnesses want you to use a chevy switch. that is what i ended up doing with my painless kit.
 
Thanks alot! The ironic thing with the headlight switch is that I've first got a GM switch from my local parts dealer but I've changed it to a Mopar switch. Then after I recieved the EZ harness I saw that i should kept the GM switch. But I'm going to buy the Mopar headlight switch connector and use the connector with the existing terminals if that's working.
 
I'm definitely interested in seeing how you end up wiring the ignition and head light switch. I'm in the middle of re-wiring my Cuda with the mini 17(?) setup and I'm scratching my head trying to figure out the head light switch in particular. Would love to keep the original switches. I've mapped out the old switch from the stock wiring diagram but of course not everything is accounted for. Keep the pics coming and best of luck!
 
I also installed this harness setup...http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=207159

For the steering column (Igniton switch and wiper switch) You'll need 11 if the 0.093" male terminals, and 5 of the 0.125" terminals. They are in the interlocking connector drawer there. This will allow you to re-pin the factory connector bodies. If I need to change the switch, I can just put a brand new one in off the shelf and don't have to modify anything.

For the headlight switch, I remember branching out the B+ to 2 or 3 different pins on the switch. I just soldered and heat shrunk it.
 
goldduster318 your thread gave me the idea of where to mount the fuse panel.

Today I have made some more progress. First my fuse panel bracket didn't fit as I hoped. Had to cut and mount it slightly to the left.

The kit.
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This is how I mounted it first but the dash cluster would touch the fuse panel then.
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Brum brum with the grinder and fixed the problem.
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Then mounted it slightly to the left to clear the dash cluster clearance problem.
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Oh no the car is sick and puking wires :)
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Used hockey tape to wind a bit of the tail harness wires.
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Then I put the wires in this flex tube.
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And finally I came there with the wires.
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Instead of route a new ground wire to the dome lamp. I'm planning on using the third brake light wire(the tagged one) that's already routed with the tail harness.
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Some of the previous owner had wired the backup light to the tail light.
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Used some shrink butt connectors. Worked really good.
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Now it's right again and with fresh terminals.
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Some tools for the job.
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Made this plate for the firewall and used a new gasket which is for the old bulkhead connector.
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Became quite good I think.
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Now the spaghetti mess is back.
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One thing I wonder about is the oil and brake lamp how do they work. I will think based on looking at the dash cluster that the brake and oil lamp has a + power feed on the cluster and then it goes wires to the oil and brake switch that's grounded until the pressure is enough and break the circuit. If so I need to route two new wires from the switches to the pins at the cluster that goes to the oil and brakelamp? The thing is that the EZ harness include a oil sending wire but that must be for a oil pressure gauge and that wire is hot and will not work connecting it to the oil switch?
 
The brake warning lamp switch doesn't have any wiring for it - I didn't need it in my car as I don't have the lamp anymore anyway (aftermarket dash). I don't really need it as I can tell when the brakes don't work right (obvious) and the knee knocker parking brake is pretty obvious too.

I believe the oil sending wire is just in there to connect on both ends, one to the sending unit, and the other to the gauge. I know I'm using it with my gauges sending unit. Even my sending unit is a to ground circuit (single wire connection) so it should work for you as well.
 
Thanks goldduster318 I hope that works. How did you connect the backup lightning? I found one backup power wire and one backup left wire but how do i connect them to make them work?
 
On my car, there was a separate plug at the firewall near the bulkhead connector that runs down to the transmission. Two prong...one straight and one at like a 20 degree angle to that. Those connect to the reverse light switch.

In your case, I'm guessing you have an automatic, so there is a combination reverse light/neutral safety switch on the transmission case. Two wires are for the reverse lights (feed power in one side and the feed out the other, doesn't matter which way), and one is a ground for the neutral safety switch. Use your multimeter and whichever one is ground with the trans in park is the neutral safety switch wire.
 
Thanks once again goldduster318. Yes I have automatic transmission and that's the connector I'm talking about how to connect to so I will try like you said.

Today it has been slow on progress. Going to change to electric fuel pump because the mechanical one seems to leak into the engine. Have done a bracket for the fuel pump relay which holds in place with a zip tie. Going to use a K-Jetronic fuel pump relay which works like a regular relay but the relay needs a signal from the ignition coil to be working. So if the car dies for some reason the fuel pump will shut down. But thinking of installing a inertia crash switch to be on the safest side.

Runned some more flex tube today.
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The fuel pump relay and bracket I made.
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I found this relay? in the glove box compartment when I removed the wire harness and I wonder what does it go to? The mymopar.com wiring diagram does leave out alot info unfortunately. Thanks FABO

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Wow, your mess looks a lot better then mine keep sending pictures and details, I am lost with mine.
 
Thanks 72DD360! Have connect the tail section almost. Have done some more routing at front section and connected some wires there too. The dome lamp is also connected and I'm using the orange third brake light wire to ground.

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The blue wire feed the trailer hitch connector that I removed because I'm going to rewire it better but I dont know how yet.
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Dome lamp power.
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Before and after trunk light switch.
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Not done with the ignition wiring yet.
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Because of the engine movement I cut the wires long so they dont stretch.
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Not quite done but think I'm going to tie the harness that way.
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You're scaring me a bit with the butt splice connectors...You'll find exactly zero of those on my car. The only crimped connectors are the ones at the connectors which were done with the MSD crimping tool - which makes super high quality crimps. I always bust out the soldering iron for any splicing. I've seen enough butt splices fail over the years that they are always suspect. With solder joints, you can bullet proof their splices by using zip ties on both ends of the joint to a non-spliced wire in the harness. It will keep it from fatiguing (works like a strain relief).
 
I understand your point, I did plan do it that way you explain but I was told by an "expert" in this area and he said that the solder joints will be hard from the lead and because of all the shaking in the car it will fatique and break of. If you use crimp or butt connector you should not over crimp the connection and according to him it's better than solder joints. Test this take a wire that has the copper exposed and then solder the copper wires let it cool of and then wiggle it and you will see it breaks of fairly easy. In airplanes you dont see any solder joints besides the circuit boards. That's why I did it like that but at the same time I'm rather ambivalent to the whole thing but I did as I was recommended. The butt connectors I use is high quality with shrink tubing on both ends plus I use shrink tube over them to. Thanks for your input :)
 
I've heard that story about the hardness of the joint 100 times, sure, that would happen with a cold solder joint which was not heated up enough if the wires were moving relative to each other...however, the same thing would happen near the ends of a crimp in a butt splice connector. That is why I recommend and use the zip tie method...which I think you should use with butt splices as well.

If it was a big deal loosening the wires, then they would never solder wires directly to the circuit board....which is done often. I've never had a solder joint fail or the wire directly around it, but have seen many, many bad butt connectors (and other crimp style connectors that aren't done with a special ratcheting tool)
 
when i did my wire job i just ran the wires all the way to there termination point and installed the correct fitting. like a spade or a ring connector. I have zero butt splices in my entire car. If i needed to make a connection that was removable i used weather tight connectors.

that being said....... you are doing a great job! anyone willing to take on this project has my respect. your car will be wired far better then the factory ever did it in the end. keep up the good work.



















 
Thanks for all of yours input. I'm going to secure the harness with ties and clamps when everything is done and going to do like you mentioned goldduster318. This is my first car and everything is new have only previous experience from snowmobiles, motocross and mopeds so I'm learning more and more. Thanks FABO!

younggun2.0 yours work is awesome.
 
Have not updated the progress because I have helped dad paint his house. It has not been slow on progress so far anyway just dont had time posting it here. Has not tied the harness yet so that's why everything hangs.

Side marker.
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Mounted a maxi fuse holder and going to use the supplied fusible link also.
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Using the fan power wire as the second power feed to the instrument light and park light on the light switch instead of splice the dimmer power wire.
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Used mosquito repellent to make it possible work outside. Great thing!
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The black wire is from the ECU the green to the tach and the grey going to the fuel pump relay.
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This is how I strain relief my butt connector like you mentioned goldduster318.
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Since my time delay relay does not work I picked up a cheap light delay capacitor to power the key light. But since the light delay capacitor connects in series between the door switch and the lamp the key light would not work since it have no ground wire to connect in series with the light delay capacitor. Since the key light is grounded with a screw and have a yellow power feed wire, I came on with the light delay capacitor runs a relay that power the key light on and off with time delay when the door opens the circuit activate. This is a diagram I painted how it works.
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Here is a film with the key light, time delay capacitor and relay in action. It actually worked for the first time I tried it. Proud that my idea turned out good to replacing a burned out time delay relay.
 
Have been some progress here have only 2-3 wires left to connect. So soon can I test it out and I hope it all will work.

This is the thing that make the key and dome light on about 30 sec after the door been closed. Added a buzzer that sounds when the key is in and the door open. Wanted to keep the original features.
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Here is it mounted next to the fuel pump relay.
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Made a harness to the glovebox, map light, console and ashtray light. Connected the console and ashtray light from the instrument panel light wire so I can dim it as original. Took the cigarrette lighter wire to feed the glovebox and map light.
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Map light and blower motor wiring.
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Ground wire highway. Have routed all ground wire in the front to this point that is connected to the negative pole on the battery. Have also ground the voltage regulator and ECU with a wire that's connected to that point also.
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The fusible link connected with the wire from the ammeter. Haven't connected the diode shunt that will protect the ammeter yet, waiting for electrical silicone tape that im going to insulate the diode shunt from touching the body.
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This is how I mounted the fuel pump. It hanging freely with rubber mounts so it will be quieter, I hope. Looks like the rear end will interfere the fuel pump when driving but is just an optical illusion.
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The fuel pump and fuel outlet is about the same height so I hope it will work.
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