Fastrax review and alignment questions for the pros.

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The diameter of the rotational plane does not effect the toe angle because you are measuring the difference between the front and the rear. 0 is 0 no matter how far it is projected. It can be measured in degrees or inches, just go into the preferences and pick which one you want. Hell you can measure it in millimeters if you want. The computer is measuring it in degrees and converting it to inches of mm for us.
Degrees are measured from the center-line of the car and can be more accurate as it eliminated part of the inch measuring equation plus now we are measuring individual toe instead of total toe.



If you can say, based on the simple tools I have, what are you thoughts on finding a center point of the car .
For example, the seam of the K frame and drop a plumb bob to the floor.
Or, more conveniently and accurately perhaps, use the frame rails near the tires with a plumb bob to the floor and split the difference.
Using that as a reference couldn't I , in theory, measure individual toe?
Factory give me 1/8 inch total"?
So each would be 1/16 in.
And then confirm total.
Seems like that might be a more accurate way to do it with little more trouble.



On a separate point, I read somewhere that the tie rods need adjusted to be equal in length to avoid bump steer.
If this is true (seem logical based on my understanding of front end geometry) this is an important item and should it be mentioned more.
 
If you set the total toe (correctly) with the steering wheel centered in the steering box and the steering wheel is in that same position in a dynamic condition, there is no reason to think about it any more. The only way I know how to find the thrust angle of the car is by measuring individual rear toe and with a computer. I was bottle fed on computer assisted aligners so someone else might help you better than me but the plumb bob aint a bad idea and I have mapped out frames that way but you can't measure datum (height) that way but you can use your sheet metal for that.

You can measure bump steer. Once again, if your car does not exhibit bump steer there is no reason to worry about it. Yes, a longer than the other tie rods can contribute to bump steer but it would have to be a lot and should prove some other severe condition, like... bad rear individual toe.

These old cars are not really that precise nor do they need to be. A lot of what is measurable today is more of a diagnostic procedure to find out what is wrong with newer cars as they are more effected by misalignment.
 
Okay I read about 10 posts on this thread and got mind boggled LOL I've rebuilt automatic transmissions carburetors and I'm about to rebuild the entire suspension but again after reading this thread or the first part of it LOL I'm convinced 100% that the $45 I spend at the alignment shop is worth every penny LOL and if it's not right or wearing the tires funny I just bring it back in and have them do it again for free. :popcorn:
p.s. I hope everything turns out well for the op. :thumbsup:
 
Okay I read about 10 posts on this thread and got mind boggled LOL I've rebuilt automatic transmissions carburetors and I'm about to rebuild the entire suspension but again after reading this thread or the first part of it LOL I'm convinced 100% that the $45 I spend at the alignment shop is worth every penny LOL and if it's not right or wearing the tires funny I just bring it back in and have them do it again for free. :popcorn:
p.s. I hope everything turns out well for the op. :thumbsup:

I know the feeling.
However, I'm looking at more than just the dollars and cents involved.
I found this thread which has good information from our resident experts.
Questions on recent alignment
I think it shows the pitfalls of relying on someone else as well.

Another issue in my situation is that I'm mentoring some other people and we enjoy being able to DIY.
We are having a good time sharing the work and learning.
I can tell you that with "help" it makes the job easy.
I even found these on the manufacturer's site with a 50 dollar off coupon.
They seem nice.
QuickTrick Turn Plates In Stock*

So I have to say, for me it's money well spent.
I've convinced myself of that anyway.
I have more than one car to use these things one.
 
The Direct Connection Oval Track book has a graphic converting toe degree to toe distance based on tire diameter. Figure 124-35

The shop manuals make the procedure pretty straightforward.
I have three caster/camber tools, one toe gage and have also used strings. Any measurements need to be from a reliable surface. The only way to use the tires for final toe is marking the tread. Outside of tires are too variable, although as long as you're consistant, its fine for quick and dirty approximation. Sometimes thats enough.

I have the Smart camber digital. Its similar to yours, except no toe extensions. I hold it in place to take the caster and camber degrees. Without marked plates, I just use consistant number of turns on the streering wheel for caster. As far as digital vs. spirit level - I'm with you - spirit level is my preference. Only advantage to digital is the ability to zero out inclinations in the floor. That's still not correcting for the fact that the floor isn't level (as the chassis is still reacting to the slope) so its not really a plus.

Following rutts and related highway wander is toe out while moving. Talking 60 mph here, not 95 + mph.
 
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