Finally Some Pictures of my 1969 Dodge Dart GT

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1969VADart

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So I finally got some pictures loaded onto my computer so that I could share them with the forum. Going to try to share some basic pics and then show some of the biggest problems I will have to deal with. At least we got the car running, but now I am in the process of replacing everything from the fuel pump back to the fuel tank. The previous owner had let the car sit for far too long. Gas was leaking out of a whole bunch of pin holes in the tank. So I am replacing everything (tank, straps, sending unit, etc.). Then I should be able to get the car on the road. This will probably be a slow process so I am going to make the car at least serviceable to drive in the meantime.








318 with 2.02 heads (from a 360), Mopar Performance aluminum intake, Carter 4-barrel carb, Mopar purple cam (don't know specs), Factory AC and Power Steering


Some bad rust where the vinyl top split. I plan to ditch the vinyl top all together.




The only really troublesome hole.


The worst spot of rust on any fender. Other smaller spots at fender corners, but the rocker panels are intact.


Drivers view.


Front seats.


Back seats.


Worst door spot inside.
 
So it is finally time to get on with my restomod project. I am going to turn the car over to a restoration shop in Deltaville, VA called Rusteez Nuts Restorations. They were recommended to me by FABO member 68VAHCODE. After meeting and talking to the owner for a long time, I was sold.

Today I decided to start stripping the interior. This first picture is the driver's floor pan. It is really not as bad as it looks (mostly just surface rust). The thing in the middle of the floor is a mounting bracket for a left foot accelerator (a necessity for me to drive due to my Army injury)



The passenger side floor pan is another story. There is one obvious hole. This is going to be replaced.



The entire front floor and under the seats.



Both rear floor pans are in this condition. They look very good.



The area under the rear seat also looked very good.



Since the interior is out, I decided to go ahead and make the floor shift conversion. Here the brackets are mocked up using the template from Redfish. Unfortunately I did not get them mounted yet because our welder was not up to the task. I plan to complete the swap before finishing the tear down.

 
Cool project, I secretly wish my swinger was a gt, I love the big moulding along the top body line!
 
Ralphie,

I am actually going to be listing the top molding here on FABO soon. I have the complete set and all of the pieces are straight. But the previous owner painted them so they have to be refinished. Originally I was going to put them back on the car so I bought a complete set of clips too. But then I decided to smooth the body lines completely, so the trim is going to go.

Cool project, I secretly wish my swinger was a gt, I love the big moulding along the top body line!
 
Today I got the floor shift conversion done. First, I have to start by thanking FABO members Moparparts (Don) for the complete and correct 69 floor shift kit, Redfish (Ben) for the template for the mounting brackets (that thing is worth its weight in gold), and barracudakid (Eddie) for the correct steering column. All I have to do to fully complete the conversion is swap in the new column. Here are a few pictures of the process.

Here are the console mounting brackets tack welded down with the shift assembly loosely installed.



All three brackets tack welded in.



Driver side of the shifter. We pretty much took a shot in the dark to drill the hole in the hump and got lucky. For future reference for anyone doing this, a 2 3/4" hole saw is the ideal bit for the hole in the hump.



The console mocked up on the brackets.



Here are a couple of pics of the shift linkage underneath. This is the bracket that bolts to the side of the transmission that the rotating rod that drops down from the shifter passes through. We had to bend the bracket slightly to get the alignment perfectly straight.



Here is the linkage that wraps around the transmission pan.



Got to test drive it on the way home from the shop we were working on and the set up worked great. Now I can officially begin a full strip down as the car is getting ready to go for body work.
 
Managed to get the AC system off of my car this week. After making a couple of spacers for the alternator bracket, everything worked out. Shorter belts had already been installed. I haven't decided yet whether to swap pulleys or not, but it is not necessary yet.





I have a couple of questions also. I have seen the heater hoses routed directly from the firewall on many cars. Can anyone tell me why the heater hoses might be routed the way they are here through the valve on the fender?



Also, has anyone just capped these connections where the AC hoses connect instead of eliminating them all together?

 
The car is almost ready to get to the body work stage. Managed to basically get the front and rear of the car disassembled.







Got most of the rest of the interior out also. Still have to get the gauge cluster, headliner, and heater box out. Then off to the body shop she goes.

 
i'm doing the same auto floor shift conversion and have no idea where exactly to weld the console mounting and auto shift brackets. I am doing it on my 67 FB Barracuda. I'm not sure if the measurements are the same, but can I get the measurements?
Thanks! I love those GT's. Looks you have a great car to build up from. Good luck, I'm subscribed!
 
Ariffle,

I can't say if they are the same. I got the template for the bracket mounting locations from FABO member Redfish. The template is the yellow paper thing you see in one of the earlier pictures in this thread. I would recommend contacting Redfish and see if he can help on the locations. I am real glad I made the conversion now. It really looks good with the bucket seats and the shifter mechanism actually seems to be smoother than when it was on the column.

i'm doing the same auto floor shift conversion and have no idea where exactly to weld the console mounting and auto shift brackets. I am doing it on my 67 FB Barracuda. I'm not sure if the measurements are the same, but can I get the measurements?
Thanks! I love those GT's. Looks you have a great car to build up from. Good luck, I'm subscribed!
 
Ariffle,

I can't say if they are the same. I got the template for the bracket mounting locations from FABO member Redfish. The template is the yellow paper thing you see in one of the earlier pictures in this thread. I would recommend contacting Redfish and see if he can help on the locations. I am real glad I made the conversion now. It really looks good with the bucket seats and the shifter mechanism actually seems to be smoother than when it was on the column.

Thanks!
I'll have to get in touch with him soon then.
 
So here is a little update on my car. Went down to visit with the body guy today and this is what I found. The first picture is the donor roof for my car.

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...1-4162-BA76-E77C2DAB7F19_zpsfwqjgaag.jpg.html

Fenders, doors and hood off and all glass out.

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...B-4509-985E-B1AE54FD49FB_zpsxcl11pdx.jpg.html

Engine has been removed as well as wiper motor and heater box (on the inside).

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...6-4FCF-968E-5D6CDDB930D3_zps85kpi3ue.jpg.html

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Dash is out. Made it much easier for us to get the heater box out ourselves.

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...9-439D-AFE5-B840C79E97D9_zpsyovbqurg.jpg.html

Motor and transmission was pulled out together, but it might have to go back in separately to keep from banging up the fenders in the engine bay. We are going to be replacing all of the seals once I get the engine on a stand. Probably also going to do new water pump, starter, and some other odds and ends before cleaning it up and painting.

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...E-4E6F-A4D3-786CE5127764_zpsrpub2wc0.jpg.html

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I decided to refinish the gauge cluster myself. The needles were faded so I used some model paint to recolor them.

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I also swapped the old plastic/glass face from the old bezel to the new chrome bezel.

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...B-464E-9B3C-3B94E64A408C_zpswezs56qw.jpg.html

Gauge cluster is back together. The second picture is the comparison between the redone cluster and new bezel and the old bezel.

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...1-4A4B-8401-77A9E3E3D00D_zpszyio2y4o.jpg.html

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I was going to put the cluster bulbs back in but I realized that the bulb sockets that I bought off of eBay were not the correct size. The new sockets I bought were smaller than the originals. Anyone no what the specific part number is for the original sockets so that I can get the correct ones?
 
So I finally go the motor and transmission separated and on the stand and now I have started to take it down for a little cleaning and painting.





Spent some time this morning getting most of it disassembled. Only thing left is the intake manifold. Anyone have any advice on the best way to break the manifold free from the top of the block and heads?



 
not to change the subject but I love your house. good luck on your build

I built my kids a climbing wall in the garage. Its a great conversation piece and great fun, as well as a good workout. Unfortunately I sacrificed a long wall in my garage, but now I have an excuse to build a separate garage.

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So I decided to spend the weekend working on some little things for my car. Couldn't really finish cleaning the motor and get on with the cleaning because I am waiting on my replacement gaskets to come in. So I painted some of the small parts including the pulleys. I decided to go with a silver (a shade brighter than Argent Silver, its not really white as it looks in the picture) for the kickdown linkage, and semi-flat black for the pulleys and power steering pump mounting brackets.

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...3-4A81-887B-B224AB7FD6CD_zpso19ndnso.jpg.html

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I also decided to start working on my grille. After spending an hour or so cleaning it up, I decided to paint part of it today. I am going with a mostly blacked out grille with just the center and edges trimmed in the silver that I used for the kickdown linkage. I got the black (semi-gloss) done today; the silver will have to wait for another day. It took quite a while to do all the taping and trimming.

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...0-49B1-8A78-31A63C98E109_zpsqe19ja5g.jpg.html

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...2-49E8-906A-C64E0185E5D4_zps3vpxajdr.jpg.html

Anyone have any ideas how to polish the outer lip of the grille? It looks to be brighter (almost chromed looking) than the inside silver portions. I may just paint the whole thing silver, but I thought I would try to polish the edges first.
 
So I finally finished taking the motor down so I can paint the block and heads. It was surprisingly clean inside. I have a set of cast valve covers that CudaChick (Leanna) is going to be powder coating for me, so I just decided to leave the valve covers that came on the car bolted on.

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I also picked up a replacement windshield wiper motor from a FABO member. He does outstanding work.

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...F-416B-B244-BC194CC9B5F3_zpsymer30jc.jpg.html

I also had a chance to go visit the guy doing my body work today. He has started dissecting the roof section of my car. Eventually it will be a completely new roof from the top of the A-posts all the way back. He also has to replace the drip rails because they had apparently rotted from moisture trapped under the old vinyl top. Here you can see the main section of roof removed and some pictures of the car with no top (maybe I should install a sunroof). The last picture shows all the holes in the original roof that the bondo that we covered it in found and seeped through to the inside(little white spots).

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...1-4C85-8AD9-D3347059A8C6_zpsx16hzrw7.jpg.html

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I am hoping to get the motor painted tomorrow, then I can start piecing some stuff back together. Next I need to focus on the grille work and I am getting ready to refurbish the heater/AC box (even though the car will not have AC when we are done).
 
Nice project. Do you know if the grille was ever re-done or are the first pics of an original? They came with different paint schemes, so wondering if yours is the original GT version.

Also, since you're not doing a 100% resto, wondered if you've considered shaving those drip rails?
 
Nice project. Do you know if the grille was ever re-done or are the first pics of an original? They came with different paint schemes, so wondering if yours is the original GT version.

Also, since you're not doing a 100% resto, wondered if you've considered shaving those drip rails?

It is the original grille, but it definitely does not have the original paint scheme. I had started to paint it, but I have now backtracked to strip the anodize and then I am going to start over. I am going to blacken most of the grille out (much like you see in that picture).

As for the drip rails, since we have a complete roof section from a donor car, we are going to transplant the drip rails. I have some very nice drip rail trim that will look good on the car once that part is repaired.
 
Today I got the block and heads painted. Here are a couple of before and after pictures. This is the original Mopar red that came on certain small blocks during the mid and late 60's. I actually read that the original Mopar red was more of an industrial red (like used by International), but I just went with Mopar's current red engine paint.

Before







After





 
Time for a little update on my progress. I have too many things going on at once with this project, but I am picking away at it. I started putting some of the motor back together. I had the aluminum intake powder coated (along with the exhaust manifolds). I also bought some new small parts (temp sending unit, oil pressure sender, coil) and a new alternator. All of the pulleys were just painted. Leanna (CudaChick) is powder coating the valve covers and air cleaner cover. Once I get those back, I can start finalizing this part of the project.

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...7-4BE2-B2D8-85EF44BEB5DD_zpsesv9cj80.jpg.html

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...8-40BA-9EC0-86DFC8D76780_zps1vzdxb4k.jpg.html

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I also decided to take the AC/heater box apart and do a refurbish on it. I removed all of the AC components from my car, so I am just going to make a plate to seal off the vent opening. I really just added new seals and foam all over and painted the metal parts of the box. I got the refurbish kit from Detroit Muscle Technologies. I highly recommend them if you dive into this part of the project. Also, take lots of pictures. I realized after I took it apart that I didn't pay attention to or take pictures of exactly which vacuum valves attach to which lines. But I dug up some other pictures to guide me. I added a new heater core and blower motor. Despite looking at the heater core next to the original one, the tubes were not the same bend (just barely) and I ended up with a crack in the top of the box that I had to repair. I also repaired a couple other holes and cracks with JB Weld.

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...9-4A53-9AB0-252CEAE177A0_zpswvvnfedv.jpg.html

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Hope to get back to work on my grille and headlight bezels and repaint the trunk trim panel this weekend.
 
Trunk trim panel? All I see is D O D G E lettering. I'm curious because the trim panels are hard to come by.
 
I just noticed that your front console bracket is welded into the floor upside down. This picture shows the correct placement.

 
Trunk trim panel? All I see is D O D G E lettering. I'm curious because the trim panels are hard to come by.

I actually managed to score a trunk trim panel in very good shape. That is going to be added to the car when I get to that stage.

I just noticed that your front console bracket is welded into the floor upside down. This picture shows the correct placement.

[URL="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q229/burdar/68DartGT/DSCN2242_zps57193fe2.jpg"][/URL]

The console seemed to sit fine on the bracket even if I did mount it upside down, but that is interesting to note. I assumed I had mounted it correctly because the flat portion was not curved to fit the hump and each drop down side was a different length suggesting to me that the bracket had to be mounted the way we did it with it offset to one side according to the template we used. So long as the console mounts on it, I will make it work. Thanks for the insight though.
 
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