flex fan

-

67belevdere/225

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2017
Messages
171
Reaction score
43
Location
montreal
any ideas on flex fans i saw one on summit a hayden 3615 , but it says that
Must use with a fan spacer.. Not for use on engines larger than 250CID (4.1L), high performance engines or racing vehicles, off road vehicles, or commercial or heavy duty vehicles.what is the problem of high performance??
 
i think the issue is, that model pulls less air than the real full flex model.
the oem 4 blade that was on there was pretty lame . i will be putting a shroud so maybe it will do the job
 
Must be a pretty radical engine build to get that hot. Even on out hottest days my 225 can sit in traffic for an hour after coming off of the highway and runs nice and cool with stock Rad and thermostat.

Maybe if the block and rad is clear of crud a v8 Rad or aftermarket is in order.
 
Where can you buy a shroud for a 225? I need one badly,had to take thermostat out so it would not get hot
summit racing has some but you need a lot of fitting i'm sure, i am just going to get a strip of stainless steel
and make one and weld some tabs on it so i can bolt it to the original rad mounting hole or close to it
i will make a mock one out of cardboard first, i let you know how it goes.
but for your car i would run a cooling system flush with the thermostat out . those 15 minute rad flushes work great. i ran one in my car before the tear down , the rad is super clean inside.
 
Yeah my 80Volare can barely keep itself warm on the hottest summer days,lol, even with the lamo 4blade fan, and an automatic. In winter I used to block the rad with cardboard, completely, and right tight to the fins. The only time it ever "over-heated",was cuz the top rad seam blew open, and she puked all her coolant out. That was a scary ride home 10 miles, putting more water in her every mile. Thank goodness for Ditch-water, and a spare ww jug!.
If you can get a stock slanty hot, I mean truly boiling the water, hot, in Montreal Canada, congradulations. What's your secret?

There are only two reasons for an engine to overheat; 1) it is creating excessive heat, or 2) it isn't shedding enough heat.
As to creating it, look to retarded timing, and lean running, and a plugged exhaust.
As to shedding the heat, look to water circulation first, then capacity.This means that the lower hose is not collapsing,is first,and then that the water pump is in fact moving water. After that, look to the rad not seeing airflow through it. Perhaps the fins are plugged with dirt or debris.Or if an a/c car check the condenser for blockage. Then finally check the wp drive ratio. The block being full of sludge on a slanty doesn't seem to be an issue; as long as the coolant can at least travel to the back. You can get an idea of the water circulation by; removing the thermostat and putting it back together,removing the cap, and then blipping the throttle, while having one eye on the lower radhose and the other on the fluid in the top of the rad. The lower hose must retain its shape,and not get sucked flat. The fluid level in the rad should drop as soon as the rpm starts to rise, and it should pop back up as soon as the Rs begin to fall.Then while idling, the fluid should be constantly moving. There should be no bubbles in it of any kind, and it should not begin to steam until around 180*,or more degrees. Go boil some water in an open pot on the stove. It doesn't move around much until the temp is too hot to put your hand into, and it doesn't begin to "smoke" until just before it boils.
Put a scrap of paper about 8x 10 in front of the rad (no A/C), with the engine idling (about600). The fan should immediately snap it up tight to the rad. Tear it in half, and move it around from place to place. It should be the same in a circle the size of the fan, with less towards the corners. Without a shroud, and with the hood open,the pull is less pronounced.
The flex-a-lite with the 6 metal blades did not cool my 360HO, at all. It worked on the slanty just fine. I threw it in the attic and lesson learned for me.
If the engine has a blown headgasket and is pumping compression out, then the remaining cylinders are gonna have to work harder to get the car moving. Extra work is extra heat. If it has blown out between two adjacent cylinders, this is serious pressure loss. But by now you would be on to something being wrong. Retarding timing is more insideous, in that, as it happens gradually, you might not notice until it is quite far out, and then you would be wondering why your engine is so lazy.With retarded timing the mixture may not finish burning in the chamber. This leads to the charge continuing to burn in the exhaust ports and exhaust manifold. And the fuel mileage takes a dump.
To much timing also creates heat, if she gets into detonation,both the power and the fuel mileage take a dump.
Taking the stat out, with no compensating restrictor is the wrong thing to do. In a DD the temp may not come up warm enough to drive away the moisture and acids that form inside the engine .This leads to accelerated wear, and eventual self-destruction, as the engine accumulates moisture and condenses it into water. Eventually this water finds its way into the oilpump on a cold start, and pretty soon the bearings get hammered out. Short trips under 20 minutes will accelerate this.
So, you need to get after this.
I suggest your first purchase be an IR gun, and start targeting everything to do with the cooling system. 205* at the stat house, or in the filler neck,is not too hot. I (me personally) would not run much under that, with perhaps 190 as the minimum.
 
Last edited:
I agree. Actually. Almost no snow here as I speak in regina. I just took the car out for a spin and yes...I have to block half of the rad or it just doesn't heat up. Even on cold spring and fall mornings when it's about 0 degrees.

Temp Guage will barely even go past the first mark in summer.

I think you have a cruddy rad or block
 
i just rebuilt the engine , i shaved the head .100 and running twin carbs, i have not even started it yet , i'm just in the fitting the fan and wondering what works best , i think the low profile fan from hayden should do the trick then. i will make a shroud also and not get the the full flex model

IMG_4229.JPG
 
See here and here (on that page you can read up on the Toyota Land Cruiser fan and clutch — then go pounce on this ridiculously inexpensive one)
the fan clutch assembly that i was going to use wont fit( from the 82 diplomat) , from the tip of the water pump to where the rad core is , i have about 3 inches , so i have no choice to go flex, so any upgrade is is better than the oem 4 solid blade thing is going to do the trick.
 
Use the stock pulley, somewhere between 6 and 7 inches in diameter. All \6 fan-water pump pulleys are the same size; if you have a smaller one it's from something other than a \6. The linked fan will bolt right up.
 
the pulley is stock from the ex cop police car , maybe they had water pump turn fasket cause of a/c equipped car
 
....is why I linked you to the one that WILL fit.
that fan sold but . do you have application so I can buy a new fan there is one here
eBay item number:
322371861934
I can get a new fan clutch for 85 $ at my autoparts store , new is always best
 
I saw that , but I checked on there site and said it fits, cant wait to get it
I was looking at the 2 distributor gear from the motor I have the holes are all drilled in different places , I ordered 2 from doorman
I was thinking of having one made at the machine shop with out polypropolene or something
 
I saw that , but I checked on there site and said it fits, cant wait to get it

Sorry, you lost me...checked what on which site?

I was looking at the 2 distributor gear from the motor I have the holes are all drilled in different places , I ordered 2 from doorman I was thinking of having one made at the machine shop with out polypropolene or something

No need (or benefit) to a custom-made distributor pinion. You cannot use the predrilled hole in any of them (not even in the Chrysler Mopar replacement pinion). Make sure you install the new distributor drive pinion correctly; it's not as obvious as it looks. See here.
 
oh was talking about the ebay site for fan
and now that I am prepping the dist to go to zeke's to get them to run it on their dist machine . I see that the gear is not drilled properly . when I m done there I will set the correct depth as instructed.
 
on the electronic dist it had 2 pick up coils in it
one for start and the other for run, I see they sell a single pick up there is p/n lx 102 and lx 103 does anybody know te difference or do I just buy the dual pick up and just use one plug
 
-
Back
Top