from bare metal up "material cost"

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Darren

Darren

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Hey guys ... I am in the early stages of having my 68 Barracuda painted. I originally stripped it to bare metal myself and had plans of painting it myself, but life got in the way and might be hiring a guy to do it.
so my question is I got a rough price on the cost of materials ( everything needed from bare metal up to clear) including sand paper, masking tape, sand paper etc... my potential painter told me $4000 (Canadian).
The car will also have the jams, inside doors and trunk painted also.
I thought it was high, to you experienced guys what do you think?
BTW.. I have seen 2 cars this guy has painted and they are like glass.
Thanks
 
Darren said:
Hey guys ... I am in the early stages of having my 68 Barracuda painted. I originally stripped it to bare metal myself and had plans of painting it myself, but life got in the way and might be hiring a guy to do it.
so my question is I got a rough price on the cost of materials ( everything needed from bare metal up to clear) including sand paper, masking tape, sand paper etc... my potential painter told me $4000 (Canadian).
The car will also have the jams, inside doors and trunk painted also.
I thought it was high, to you experienced guys what do you think?
BTW.. I have seen 2 cars this guy has painted and they are like glass.
Thanks
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I have a 2005 Scion TC. A guy I was working for clipped it with his car trailer in 2014. He turned it into his insurance
co. I had to get a new frt. bumper cover, right fender and both head lights, all Toyota parts. The insurance called for
after market parts. I got about $2400 from the insurance. I did all the minor body work, disassembly and paint prep
on the car. I took it to a shop I used to work at for paint. With me doing all the previous work, helping to mask the
car, etc. it cost me $1800 to paint it. Around 10 hrs. of labor and $1100 in material. So to answer your question you
are not being over charged, on the contrary you are getting a deal.
 
4000 is a deal. Labour is a big portion. Shops have a material cost per hour, so to break 4,000 down say 50/hour thats 80 hours. Cheap.
 
Tooljunkie said:
4000 is a deal. Labour is a big portion. Shops have a material cost per hour, so to break 4,000 down say 50/hour thats 80 hours. Cheap.
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I was quoted 10-12k for my dart that is bare metal. All metal work already done and VERY little body work needed. This guy does show quality work but its more than I need for this car. I have since decided to get it in primer and shoot the trunk, jambs and engine compartment myself. Im still debating on painting the whole thing myself.
 
My brother just got a quote to strip, do all body work and paint a 55 Nash 4 door for $4500, so it sounds like you're getting a decent deal. Make sure his work is reputable and you could ask for references too. I have a friend who owns a body shop that told me he would paint my Duster but did not want to do any of the bodywork because he would lose his butt in labor! You need to find someone who enjoys the old cars and is willing to put the time into to make it nice again. I had another friend just pay $8,000 to have his 68 Camaro done and it was pretty straight to begin with! But, it is laser straight and beautiful, almost too nice to drive now, from what he told me!
 
Darren said:
Hey guys ... I am in the early stages of having my 68 Barracuda painted. I originally stripped it to bare metal myself and had plans of painting it myself, but life got in the way and might be hiring a guy to do it.
so my question is I got a rough price on the cost of materials ( everything needed from bare metal up to clear) including sand paper, masking tape, sand paper etc... my potential painter told me $4000 (Canadian).
The car will also have the jams, inside doors and trunk painted also.
I thought it was high, to you experienced guys what do you think?
BTW.. I have seen 2 cars this guy has painted and they are like glass.
Thanks
Click to expand...
@GeorgeH
 
Thanks for the reply and info guys...
Just to be clear the 4000$ estimate was for " material only"
Thanks
 
I painted my 67 notch myself and I paid a little over $2,000.00 for materials only at BIL pricing. PPG Concept.
I needed another quart of clear yesterday for touchup on my Comet and it was $108.00 out the door without hardner.
Get your checkbook out for quality materials for automotive painting.
 
I don't know what materials cost up there, but they have really skyrocketed here. A lot of times a less costly clear is used on trim out to save some bucks. I don't think that is too far out of line IF and a big If he uses all top shelf materials. But to give an example I prime , block, and reprime, A gallon of primer is not enough to do an allover on the exterior so if you need 2 gallons big difference between in cost just on primer at $125 a gal or $300 a gal primer. Add epoxy, Etc. Mid grade clears at less then $200/kit or top shelf at $450/kit. Top shelf activators are insane. Economy basecoats are economy because there is less pigment per volume and more binder so it usually takes more and not always a savings there. Color plays apart in cost. Reds, high pearlescent, etc are much higher. It is much cheaper to mix paint in a shop off a mixing rig then to walk into a jobber and have them mix it depending on what his setup is. Decent buffing materials add to the cost also. Unless you want to spend the whole day changing sandpaper you buy the better paper. I think you guys are on the low voc materials like I am here in the MD/DE area and the same as California. Huge bump in cost when that went into effect.

A driver is going to get skinned up no matter what paint you put on it. For me that's a factor. Very nice results can be had with some of the mid grade clears such as PPG Shopline or Dupont's Nason line. I've time tested the Nason on my own stuff and many others. I have it on my DD truck and a Harley in the garage I did back in 2000. Granted the HD sits inside, but it still looks nice.
 
GeorgeH said:
I don't know what materials cost up there, but they have really skyrocketed here. A lot of times a less costly clear is used on trim out to save some bucks. I don't think that is too far out of line IF and a big If he uses all top shelf materials. But to give an example I prime , block, and reprime, A gallon of primer is not enough to do an allover on the exterior so if you need 2 gallons big difference between in cost just on primer at $125 a gal or $300 a gal primer. Add epoxy, Etc. Mid grade clears at less then $200/kit or top shelf at $450/kit. Top shelf activators are insane. Economy basecoats are economy because there is less pigment per volume and more binder so it usually takes more and not always a savings there. Color plays apart in cost. Reds, high pearlescent, etc are much higher. It is much cheaper to mix paint in a shop off a mixing rig then to walk into a jobber and have them mix it depending on what his setup is. Decent buffing materials add to the cost also. Unless you want to spend the whole day changing sandpaper you buy the better paper. I think you guys are on the low voc materials like I am here in the MD/DE area and the same as California. Huge bump in cost when that went into effect.

A driver is going to get skinned up no matter what paint you put on it. For me that's a factor. Very nice results can be had with some of the mid grade clears such as PPG Shopline or Dupont's Nason line. I've time tested the Nason on my own stuff and many others. I have it on my DD truck and a Harley in the garage I did back in 2000. Granted the HD sits inside, but it still looks nice.
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Yeah, were all low VOC here in MD. I have been using Nason primer and its pretty good stuff. I have used their epoxy, high build, sealer. I have not used their BC but have shot some small parts with single stage 2K and it went on great and has a decent shine right out of the gun.
The shop I got a quote on uses all water bourne paint. It may be a requirement here for the shops but not sure. From what I hear there is quite a learning curve to switching to the water bourne paints.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
Yeah, were all low VOC here in MD. I have been using Nason primer and its pretty good stuff. I have used their epoxy, high build, sealer. I have not used their BC but have shot some small parts with single stage 2K and it went on great and has a decent shine right out of the gun.
The shop I got a quote on uses all water bourne paint. It may be a requirement here for the shops but not sure. From what I hear there is quite a learning curve to switching to the water bourne paints.
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I like the Nason primer, epoxy, sealer, etch prime as well. Always seemed to be one of the better products at that price point. Never really had a problem with any of their products. I painted in a shop where we did a lot of used car allovers and sprayed a metric shyt ton of Fulthane. They have an integrated clear you can add in the last coat to help it stand a little taller and I've even used the the regular clears in the last coat. Nason base works with or without the hardener. With the hardener it stays a little tacky. Without the hardener it tacks up nice as long as you don't pile it on. All the PPG shops are on waterbourne paint around here. The painters I talk to don't really like it. Fans in the booth, more time consuming, difficult to shoot outside a booth. If you run it the whole panel slides, and difficult to fix an issue in the base mid-process before clearing. That's what they tell me anyways.
 
If it was me spending that kind of coin,first i would want to be sure of the quality of work and second would want to shop around before i comitted.
Now on my end, a very good friend owns one of the local body shops,im sure if i wanted to i could roll my car in and pick away at it myself. But i will be doing everything at home,including paint. Respirator and proper ventilation will be without question.
 
ir3333 said:
i had no idea materials alone would be this high.
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High end low voc stuff is up there. DuPonts replacement for Chromabase is Cromax Mosaic. I've bought colors that were $140+ a quart. It mixes 2:1 with what they call a balancer. Really it's an activator/reducer @$115 a quart. 1.5 qts sprayable. About one pass around a car. Scale that out to a gallon and 2 quarts of balancer and you at, close to, or maybe over $800 just for basecoat and that not enough to get through the outside and the trimout. Metallic you need a little extra for drop coating. If the color calls for a tinted sealer mo money. I can come up with 3k pretty easily, but there are other ways.
 
I didn't hear anyone say anything about paint brands. If it is PPG, Dupont or another top shelf brand, then $4,000 sounds about right. You better check to see what you are getting. By the time a painter uses epoxy primer, high build primer, sand paper, solvents, activators, paint ($600+ per gallon for the good stuff), clear, polishing supplies, etc., you can get to $4,000 pretty fast with the good stuff. If you are paying $4k for materials that are not top shelf (even though some are quite good), that is NOT a decent price.
 
Darren said:
Hey guys ... I am in the early stages of having my 68 Barracuda painted. I originally stripped it to bare metal myself and had plans of painting it myself, but life got in the way and might be hiring a guy to do it.
so my question is I got a rough price on the cost of materials ( everything needed from bare metal up to clear) including sand paper, masking tape, sand paper etc... my potential painter told me $4000 (Canadian).
The car will also have the jams, inside doors and trunk painted also.
I thought it was high, to you experienced guys what do you think?
BTW.. I have seen 2 cars this guy has painted and they are like glass.
Thanks
Click to expand...
What paint systems,can this person actually spray? Was this that personal recommendation? And can they shoot , other brands?... I sold a few gallons,of Ford's mid 90's " Laser Red" base ,15 years ago (Martin Senour)... A three stage type candy paint, a gallon of base was 700 bucks,then...
 
o.k. $4000 for "top shelf" stuff....can you get an excellent finish with standard materials,
like regular primer and single stage paint very fine factory style orange peel,do not cut
and polish.
 
Pretty sure he can spray just about anything on the market.... like I said he does amazing work... and as of lastnight we parted ways due to various reasons. But he is also a good enough guy to try and help me get the Cuda painted elsewhere... thanks for all the information it's really appreciated.
I'll keep you guys updated...
thanks
 
.
harrisonm said:
I didn't hear anyone say anything about paint brands. If it is PPG, Dupont or another top shelf brand, then $4,000 sounds about right. You better check to see what you are getting. By the time a painter uses epoxy primer, high build primer, sand paper, solvents, activators, paint ($600+ per gallon for the good stuff), clear, polishing supplies, etc., you can get to $4,000 pretty fast with the good stuff. If you are paying $4k for materials that are not top shelf (even though some are quite good), that is NOT a decent price.
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Sure I did. mentioned DuPont
 
Abodybomber said:
What paint systems,can this person actually spray? Was this that personal recommendation? And can they shoot , other brands?... I sold a few gallons,of Ford's mid 90's " Laser Red" base ,15 years ago (Martin Senour)... A three stage type candy paint, a gallon of base was 700 bucks,then...
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PPG has a 2 stage formula for that color that works beautifully. At least they did in DBU base. I'd imagine they can mix it in Concept or Global. Doing a spot repair with that 3 stage was difficult. PPG's 3 stage version had a pinkish colored midcoat.
 
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ir3333 said:
o.k. $4000 for "top shelf" stuff....can you get an excellent finish with standard materials,
like regular primer and single stage paint very fine factory style orange peel,do not cut
and polish.
Click to expand...
You can get nice results with single stage but a single stage metallic is not going to have the depth a bc/cc job would have. Metallics I usually run bc/cc because with single stage metallics if for some reason you have to do a repair and blend then you end up with a couple panels with clear on them and you can definitely see that. A year later the chance of getting a quart mixed that's 100% dead nuts match to panel paint with is very slim. Color fades a bit or application differences that change the way a color/metallic lays etc.

About as cheap as you can get on bc/cc. Kirker 2k primer and base(which is supposedly what Summit and Eastwood are packaging), Nason clear. I did end up buying a second gallon of color after painting the cab because the color is very transparent and it really needed a 4th coat. I got what I payed for. Kirker base is not the most user friendly stuff. Ended up around the $450 mark. 3 years later, highly neglected, it still looks the same. Some guys would be very happy with this. All comes down to what you want and willing to spend.

truck.jpg
 
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ir3333 said:
most would be more than happy with that...including me.
Looks gorgeous!
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Thanks, just an old beater. Suits the purpose. $3-4k worth of paint I'd have a coronary parking it in front of a c-store while I grab a drink. lol
 
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