Gauges 1966 temp/gas part missing

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Capt46

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Capt46 Help! Removed dash cluster due to temp and gas gauge pegged, noticed after review of others dash, on the back I do not have the part that looks like a condenser, is that a needed part?
 
! Thank you !
There were condensers as well as voltage regulators.
And, some year around there the regulator was inside one of the gauges, and the condenser was screwed to the back of the cluster.

If you are asking about the little canister with the wire, that is the condenser.
Condensers are for limiting RF noise and for the most part only affected AM radios, and it can be left off with little to no noticeable difference at all except for needing a spacer for the tab on the condenser wire where the regulator plugs in together with it.

Here's a generic 66 Dart panel back showing both.

oldregout.jpg
 
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Ok on a 1966 is there a regulator and if so location? Thank you, my problem is the gas gauge reads full and the temperature gauge moves up after the gas gauge to max pegged. The car is not running hot and the gas is not full, I replace d the fuel tank and sending unit last week. The car sat for about 20 years. None of the dash lights work, nor the tach. Oil pressure come on moves to high, volts work. Any guidance would be appreciated. And pictures also..... Again Thank you
 
66 model what? They aren't all the same.
If you have a 3 post fuel gauge, the mechanical voltage limiter is built inside that gauge. The other thingy that you may be missing is a noise suppression capasitor.
 
For what its worth ( and this applies to all of them ) ... Most everything on these cars relies on a chassis ground path. A daisy chain of nuts, bolts, screws, etc... What this means is the instrument panel will not function properly while dangling from the harness connectors unless you attach a ground jumper. The amp gauge would work, the oil light and park light would work. Nothing more. Exception... Some aftermarket solid state regulators can send 12 volts through the thermal gauges when its ground path is broken. For these reasons, To add a perminate dedicated ground wire to the instrument cluster is recommended to any and all. Good luck with it.
 
For what its worth ( and this applies to all of them ) ... Most everything on these cars relies on a chassis ground path. A daisy chain of nuts, bolts, screws, etc... What this means is the instrument panel will not function properly while dangling from the harness connectors unless you attach a ground jumper. The amp gauge would work, the oil light and park light would work. Nothing more. Exception... Some aftermarket solid state regulators can send 12 volts through the thermal gauges when its ground path is broken. For these reasons, To add a perminate dedicated ground wire to the instrument cluster is recommended to any and all. Good luck with it.
Ok will do I'll try everything
 
Does your dash look like this (minus the red wires and digital regulator!). My gas and temp gauges were not working, so I cut out the original mechanical voltage regulator in the gas gauge and installed this digital regulator. A FABO member was kind enough to help me through it. Gauges work now, but the gas is off by about 1/4 tank. When it indicates empty, I still have a 1/4, so I'm good with it (probably the junk aftermarket sending unit). I didn't have any black wire and didn't want to buy any so I used red for everything!! It's been working for a couple of years now.

Oh, and like RedFish pointed out, grounds are critical. I ran one from each circuit board to chassis ground.


IMG_20141106_190827.jpg
 
Not all grounds. The new digital voltage regulator, part number 7805 is mounted on the right side on top of a heat sink (just in case!). It provides a constant 5 volts to operate the fuel and temp gauges. The original voltage regulator is mechanical (kind of looks like points) mounted inside the fuel gauge. One lead to the 7805 is 12volts in, one lead is 5 volts out to gauges, and one is ground. The capacitor keeps any voltage spikes from destroying the digital voltage regulator.

There are some threads on it here. I remember posting my pics to one and there are some articles on the web. Here's one Mopar Voltage Regulator Upgrade
 
When you replaced the fuel tank did you replace the metal clip that bridges the rubber hose from the tank to the fuel line. That may cause a problem as well
 
When you replaced the fuel tank did you replace the metal clip that bridges the rubber hose from the tank to the fuel line. That may cause a problem as well

And, it's extremely difficult to get that ground strap to ground correctly if you use stainless steel lines or a tank pickup with a stainless steel stem!!
 
Yes sending unit is stainless, I will ground ground ground, the gas gauge I may have misunderstood on the back there are 2 poles. I will ground the dash as well.
I used the bridge from the upper fuel line to the sending unit but will review it again with new ground.
 
I used the clip and also ran a ground wire (had black wire for this!) from the sending unit to the chassis.
 
I used the clip and also ran a ground wire (had black wire for this!) from the sending unit to the chassis.
Got the parts, except the
I used the clip and also ran a ground wire (had black wire for this!) from the sending unit to the chassis.
got the parts from RadioShack, no heat sink available. I'll give it a shot today. Great help thank you!
 
IMG_0363.JPG
IMG_0362.JPG
HURRAY'',,,,,,,,,,,,,,EVERTHING IS IN WORKING ORDER NOW EXCEPT TACH!
Thank you all for the assistance see my work as copied from 66fyssh I just added more grounds,
 
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