Help with idler arm

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BTYM

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I bought a moog idler arm for my 1973 dart sport. While trying to install, I noticed that the two washers included with the arm will not fit on the k frame. It's pretty snug without them. Also the end of the arm absolutely will not fit into the center link the way it's designed. The factory end entered the center link from the bottom. The moog enters from the top. It's almost as if the hole in the center link is tapered. I want to grind it out a bit to make it fit but before I do, any ideas lol?
 
sounds like u have the wrong idler arm 73 up different from 72 down and they do enter from opposite directions so the taper will be backwards on the centerlink
 
You need the early model idler arm .. K 7042 I believe..

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=218751

719-K7042.jpg


hope it helps
 
There is basically TWO center link setups. This is determined by what you have for a pitman arm. In other words, the pitman arm, the center link, and the idler arm all must match each other. Part of the problem is compounded by changes in the steering box shaft change from small to large spline

By the way this has nothing to do with whether you have swapped K members or whether you have swapped to disk brakes. Until I tore my car down, and swapped to disk brakes, I had a 67 K. Then I swapped in a 73 / 74 K. Then I installed disk brakes, but kept the early center link. Now, with the car torn down for paint, I have finally swapped in a power steering box, a late center link, and with late pitman and idler arm. With the exception of the 67 K member, you can swap idler arms with any K from 68 - later, depending on what center link / pitman / steering box you have.

We have to revisit this subject here about once every two months

Here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=236925

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1969800222

Early setup, 67--72, has pitman / idler nuts on top

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714612653&stc=1&d=1366597817[img]

Late setup, 73 / later, has pitman / idler nuts on bottom

[img]http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714612658&stc=1&d=1366598599


By the way, if you need a shop manual, go over to this thread and download yerself one......free


http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617
 
Sometimes you have to spread the 'ears' of the k-frame apart to fit the new idler arm in. They get bent inwards when the bolt and nut is tightened.

Take a large crescent wrench and turn it down so it fits over an ear of the k-frame where the idler arm goes, and then use it to pry the ears apart. This will make it easier to put in the new idler and washers. The ears will come back when you torque the bolt and nut for the new one.
 
BTYM said:
I figured it was on here somewhere, sorry about that. When I posted this thread I was under the car using my Iphone, in a hurry lol
Click to expand...

No no, LOL I was jus' bein funny. This is just what this board is for. Fixin' stuff
 
67Dart273 said:
No no, LOL I was jus' bein funny. This is just what this board is for. Fixin' stuff
Click to expand...

I hear ya man, but I also know how frustrating it can be when the forum is full of all the same questions. I appreciate the help though, you guys really saved my arse, I was scratchin my head lol. Unfortunately I could only get an OEM idler ordered through O'reilly's, no biggie though, I'll use it until I can afford a complete front end rebuild. I'm going to have to take my time and make sure I know what I have when I order new parts for the rebuild. My theory is, when the previous owner swapped the /6 for the 318, they pulled the 318 out of a 1968 something. They must've pulled everything, seeing as how they cut the power steering shaft and welded on a manual steering shaft into a manual pump, probably swapped the K-frame, pitman, center link, idler, and who knows what else. I'll get her up and running, there's just going to be a few day lag. Unfortunately I won't be cruisin' tomorrow like I wanted to lol. Thanks again though guys, very very helpful and knowledgeable members on the forum!
 
BTYM said:
I hear ya man, but I also know how frustrating it can be when the forum is full of all the same questions. I appreciate the help though, you guys really saved my arse, I was scratchin my head lol. Unfortunately I could only get an OEM idler ordered through O'reilly's, no biggie though, I'll use it until I can afford a complete front end rebuild. I'm going to have to take my time and make sure I know what I have when I order new parts for the rebuild. My theory is, when the previous owner swapped the /6 for the 318, they pulled the 318 out of a 1968 something. They must've pulled everything, seeing as how they cut the power steering shaft and welded on a manual steering shaft into a manual pump, probably swapped the K-frame, pitman, center link, idler, and who knows what else. I'll get her up and running, there's just going to be a few day lag. Unfortunately I won't be cruisin' tomorrow like I wanted to lol. Thanks again though guys, very very helpful and knowledgeable members on the forum!
Click to expand...


If your K frame has the biscuit mounts it is from a 1972 back and if it has spool mounts it is 1973 through 1976.

See link below for pictures.

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/K-Frames.html
 
Yes but again, the K frame has nothing to do with what pitman / center link / idler you might need. That's what I was trying to get at above My car has now seen the full gamit so to speak, all because of a steering box change.
 
BTYM said:
I want to grind it out a bit to make it fit but before I do, any ideas lol?
Click to expand...
If it has not been said....NOOOOOO don't grind it out. These tapers have an extemerly important purpose, to keep the tapered shaft from rotating in the mating taper in the draglink. They are precision ground to match and to lock tightly when the bolt is drawn up tight. If the tapers get messed up, then the shaft will rotate in the draglink and will quickly wear it out and it will be useless, the steering will get loose, and possibly dangerous.

Never, never mess with these tapers, and if one will not lock up tightly, then discard the part with the worn/damaged taper. (Unless you have some one or some way to properly regrind/restore the taper.)
 
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