Holley 1920 carburetor identification HELP!!

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DaisyDart

DaisyDart

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Ok, so, i have 2 1920 holley carburetors, and for the month ive been researching this and i just cannot figure it out..
Im attaching 4 photos, they include 2 pictures of each carburetors and the numbers stamped on them. If anybody can tell me which number is the LIST number that is used to find a rebuild kit i will be more then forever grateful!!!
 

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The 12R-4285B and 12R-4328B are the casting numbers so ignore those.

Looks like the pix are mixed: do 1 and 4 belong together? If so, and since that carb has the flat accelerator pump shaft, I am thinking it is this kit:

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Holley-1920-Carburetor-Repair-Kit-wFlat-Shaft_p_821.html

The 4712 appears in the "list of List #'s " for this carb kit. The fact that it is the 2nd group of 4 numbers in the pair of numbers matches up with my list number (though they are on a completely different part of the carb).

The other would be the 1394 list based on that ordering of number sets but that does not compute. That is a Holley 1904 that has a similar bowl but the rest does not look right: see here:
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/MasterList/

Do you have any large pix of that 2nd carb? In the 3rd pix above, what are the number inside the little inset circle in the lower rigth hand corner of the pix? 1920 or ??
 
The first and 4th picture go together, and the 2nd and 3rd is the other carb, they both have the model 1920 stamped on the side of them... If that helps
 
Ok, some wider shot of the pix 2&3 carb (the dirty one) might help. Also, if there is a large flat vertical area by where the idle screw rests, the List number can be there.

And in pix 2, is that perhaps '4354' and not '1354' ? That is indeed a Holley 1920.
 
Good eye 4354 , 1970- 225 eng. auto .4712 , 1960-69 - 170 & 225 eng. all trans . both model 1920 and rebuild kit Holley # 3-433
 
That is about as close as you can get; just keep in mind that even if it is listed for a particular List number, a particular 1920 might have some variations, so just be aware. Those guys DO have floats, and it is good to grab one.

An alternative for the kits is Sorensen; my local Autoznoe had listings for the 1920's that were pretty accurate. But I don't think you can get floats there. And Mike's Carbs supplies a lot of helpful videos and adds some extra parts.

I'd buy 1 kit first and try it out; I used them and it was good.
 
Hmmm I've searched all day and cannot find that float... I'd imagine I'm one of the lucky ones with the discontinued float?
 
When you disassy. the float should have 362 stamped on it . I believe in changing the float when rebuilding a carb. , but , sure its bad ? the O.E. nominal weight is listed at 12.5 gms. If you need them , I have 3 Holley float. 362s in my stash .
 
There are 2 floats: a 12.7 oz and a 7.4 oz (if I recall the numbers right). You can put either one in; I have both and they look identical. (I only know I had a 7.4 oz one since I actually weighed it on a powder scale....) I have a 7.4 oz in my 1920 and it should be a 12.7 oz and it still sets up and runs OK.

You can test your old float. Borrow a powder scale from someone who loads their own ammunition. (You can still load your own ammo in Canada, right? LOL) Take the bowl off of the carb and take the float out while on the car if you can. As soon as you take the old float out and the gas dries off of the outside, weigh it. If it weighs either of these 2 weights then it is good.

The worry is that the float gets soaked with gas ('gas-logged') and weighs more than it should and it will not float right, and your fuel level wil not stay right. But an accurrate weight check (right after you get it out and before any gas soaked into the insides can escape) will tell you if it is good or not.
 
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