How do you prime the oil pump?

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Since I have a roller cam, I prefilled the filter, just pulled the fuse from my electric fuel pump turned the car over for about 30 seconds and my gauge went up to 60, put the fuse back in an started it up. Should be enough lube for 30 seconds.
You could also remove the coil wire I guess. I'm sure someoe will say that's wrong but it worked for me. Thats what most car dealers do when they replace an engine, So I heard.
 
You right on the money. You must prime the oil pump on the new hemi . Most of the time the Hemi oil pump will not self prime and you hurt the motor first start up.

The MOPAR techs here use Assy Lube when installing a new pump or after any major engine repair The assy lube is used to fill the pump up completely and will stay in place
 
So remove pump, pack full w/ assembly lube, reinstall then turn motor over?

Any certain type of assy lube?
 
If i'm not mistaken, the oil pump is on the front of the motor. You would have to remove all the front accessories, water pump just to get at it. I think I like the turn over without starting until you get oil pressure.
 
Turning it over alot wont harm the cylinders or anything?

I bought this motor as a shortblock to replace the 4.7 in my truck. Added a 6.1 oil pump and 6.1 cam/timing set and am about at the point of starting it, but this is the part that has me worried.
everybody is used to the external stuff lol...so i am lost.

I guess i would have to use a scan gauge to check for oil pressure?
 
I did this with my car before I installed the relocation kit on it. There are 2 pipe plugs that are on the top of the oil filter adapter in the block. One on top, one on the bottom. You have to check but I think the top one comes directly from the oil pump to the oil filter. I removed the plug, Installed a fitting, attached a lenght of hose and a funnel to it. Remove a spark plug from each cylinder. Hold the funnel up, put fresh oil in the funnel, and turn the engine BACKWARDS (CCW from the front) with a socket on the damper retaining bolt. You should be able to watch the oil go down in the funnel. When the funnel is empty, remove the hose and the fitting and re install the pipe plug and the spark plugs. Crank the starter, your oil pump will now be primed and you will get almost instant oil pressure. Fire her up!!!:burnout:
 
Hmm, i will have to look for these plugs...

Its nice yall are suggesting several ways, i really appreciate it.
 
Excuse my awesome paintwork...
Will it be pretty obvious which one goes to the oil pump when i take the plugs out?

So far i like this suggestion the best...

fittings.jpg
 
Those are the plugs!! I think if you remove the oil filter you can see a bit clearer on whitch hole comes from the oil pump. The oil comes in from the outside of the filter and exits from the center to the engine so whichever passage feeds the outside of the filter is the one you want to put oil through. Make sure you fill the filter as much as you can first before adding the oil. After looking at the pictures it looks as if it is the bottom hole. It has been 2 years since I had mine appart so I can't remember which one it is. I have done this twice and it has worked both times like a charm!!!:iconbigg:
 
hemijoejr said:
I did this with my car before I installed the relocation kit on it. There are 2 pipe plugs that are on the top of the oil filter adapter in the block. One on top, one on the bottom. You have to check but I think the top one comes directly from the oil pump to the oil filter. I removed the plug, Installed a fitting, attached a lenght of hose and a funnel to it. Remove a spark plug from each cylinder. Hold the funnel up, put fresh oil in the funnel, and turn the engine BACKWARDS (CCW from the front) with a socket on the damper retaining bolt. You should be able to watch the oil go down in the funnel. When the funnel is empty, remove the hose and the fitting and re install the pipe plug and the spark plugs. Crank the starter, your oil pump will now be primed and you will get almost instant oil pressure. Fire her up!!!:burnout:
Click to expand...

That's good news, this thread just came up pretty much the day after I buttoned up the front end on my engine, lol. Priming the engine had crossed my mind, but I figured I'd just crank it over with no spark or gas and hope for the best. Was thinking about trying to funnel some oil backward though the holes when I saw this thread come up and glad to hear that's a possibility.

Also, just checked my ports and it looks like the bottom one goes to the outer ring of the filter which would be straight from the oil pump I believe. Shined a flashlight up through it and could see the light easy from the port on the side.
 
adamsredlines said:
Spiffy. Thanks!
Click to expand...
> Moroso/etc. remote oil resevoir, around $50. Holds about 1.5 qts. Fill it with 1 qt,mount upright and add air pressure,(tire inflation valve) in top of tank. This will force oil into the galleys. Designed to reduce "minor" cavitation of the pump,(corner burning/etc). Good Luck, ateam.:burnout:
 
You could use a gear lube pump on a jug full of oil to that fitting. I have a lube gun that looks like a grease gun. You draw back the plunger and fill it and shove the plunger to pump it in whatever you need to fill. Auto parts carries them for about 25. Will be handy to add rear end oil in the future too.
 
I just ordered a brake pressure bleeder, I'll bet with the right adapters that would work.
 

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ateam said:
> Moroso/etc. remote oil resevoir, around $50. Holds about 1.5 qts. Fill it with 1 qt,mount upright and add air pressure,(tire inflation valve) in top of tank. This will force oil into the galleys. Designed to reduce "minor" cavitation of the pump,(corner burning/etc). Good Luck, ateam.:burnout:
Click to expand...

Do you have a link to this?

Does it have a siphon type tube in it to ensure the oil comes through instead of just blowing air through the system?

$50 sounds alot better than $200 for stuff I've seen, or spending $40 and hours trying to rig something up.
 
adamsredlines said:
Do you have a link to this?

Does it have a siphon type tube in it to ensure the oil comes through instead of just blowing air through the system?

$50 sounds alot better than $200 for stuff I've seen, or spending $40 and hours trying to rig something up.
Click to expand...
"Moroso" pn. 23930, listed on their webbsite. Adding a solenoid valve, at the base would make it "smarter", ie., pre-lube the motor every time on a cold start-up,(this is highest wear period). 2 bottles, even better. Good Luck, ateam.:burnout:
 
Map63Vette said:
That's good news, this thread just came up pretty much the day after I buttoned up the front end on my engine, lol. Priming the engine had crossed my mind, but I figured I'd just crank it over with no spark or gas and hope for the best. Was thinking about trying to funnel some oil backward though the holes when I saw this thread come up and glad to hear that's a possibility.

Also, just checked my ports and it looks like the bottom one goes to the outer ring of the filter which would be straight from the oil pump I believe. Shined a flashlight up through it and could see the light easy from the port on the side.
Click to expand...

Has anyone confirmed if it is the bottom plug?
 
adamsredlines said:
Ive tried to find a good way to prime the oil pump but have had no luck. What did you guys do?
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Often times the pump is dry on a motor that has set awhile and the pump won't suck oil since it is turning to slowly. I remember as a kid we sometimes had to prime our outside pump to get water. Just a suggestion. Rather than pulling parts off the motor, maybe you could construct a rig to put oil into the sending unit hole so that all you have to do is pull the sending unit itself. I once did this by pulling the sending unit on a Desoto hemi and inserting a pipe thread fitting for a 3/8" hose. Then I put a container of oil hanging from the ceiling of the garage with a gallon of oil in it and just let it bleed in through head pressure. This oil will find it's way down to the pump and create the prime you need. Once the container was dry. ( which took awhile ), I drained the oil and then refilled the motor with fresh oil. The engine rattled for a few seconds but It worked just fine after that. Bill
 
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