How does this crimper work?

[halfafish]

I have this AMP brand crimping tool that I got at a yard sale for peanuts. However, it is stuck closed with a small terminal still in place. And I mean stuck like it's been welded together. I've tried prying it apart, putting it in a vice with a cheater pipe on the other handle, squeezing the handles together in a vise. I'm stumped. How does this thing release? I have another crimper that is on a ratchet mechanism but that doesn't seem to be the case here.

I thought about cutting off what's left of the terminal and seeing if I can punch out the remains through the jaws. Maybe that would free it up.

Any help to be had so I can use this thing?

 

[j par]

Call me tomorrow...
I'll splain it...

 

[junkyardhero]

it's a ratcheting system, it sounds counter-intuitive but you need to close the jaws completely to release the ratchet lock/pawl. trying to pry them apart will do nothing but likely damage the tool.

occasionally they can get locked up so you'll need to put some pressure on the handles and use a pick to release the pawl.

 

[RustyRatRod]

it's a ratcheting system, it sounds counter-intuitive but you need to close the jaws completely to release the ratchet lock/pawl. trying to pry them apart will do nothing but likely damage the tool.

occasionally they can get locked up so you'll need to put some pressure on the handles and use a pick to release the pawl.

Sounds like something that needs to get chunked in the garbage.

 

[junkyardhero]

Sounds like something that needs to get chunked in the garbage.

if the jaws are still decent, i'd spend a hot minute futzing with it. otherwise i'd take it to the junkyard and leave it on the hood of a chevy citation as an offering to the skittering yard vultures. much like a sky burial.

new ones aren't all that expensive.

 

[Syleng1]

If working properly - that is a GOOD tool.
Older- I’ll admit. But I still have a similar one issued by GM to me back in the early 90’s for proper crimping of heat shrink Delphi connectors replacement.

 

[70 Buster 340]

The ratcheting is for repeatability and consistent crimping in a production environment. For Mil-Spec work we would have to send these back to AMP for recertification. They cost like $600+ back in the late 1980s.

You can drill out the cross rivets, remove the ratchet and the tool still works fine for automotive shop work.

I use an old retired one with the ratchet removed for uninsulated crimp lugs.

 

[jos51700]

There is likely a release in the ratchet mech if you look for it.

 

[mopar head]

Doesn`t the center handle get squeezed toward the left handle to release?

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

I would try using a couple lengths of pipe over the handles. You just need more mechanical leverage and it will come apart.

Tom

 

[halfafish]

I didn't get a chance to try these ideas before I took off for a week, but thanks to all. I will investigate this when I get home.

 

[peachtop]

The square rod between the 2 handles houses a ratcheting mechanism that locks so it's easier to crimp the terminal. You have to squeeze the handles together to get the ratchet to release. You might want to spray some WD-40 on the ratcheting mechanism to loosen it up. If that fails, use a scribe or something small to try to release the ratchet. By the way, it's only to be used on uninsulated terminals and the close side of the terminal goes in the circle. The side with the seam is crimped by the 2 prawgs.
I have one in mt toolbox that I took with me when I left the Air Force in 1970 and it still works. Mine is an AMP.
Good Luck

 

[halfafish]

Thanks for all the info folks! I got this freed up last night. It turns out there is indeed a ratchet mechanism inside the square tube going from one handle to the other. Someone tried to crimp a 14-16 connector in the 18-22 jaws, which then jammed up the works. I got the fitting out using some flush cut wire crimpers, cutting it off and pulling the remains out sideways. Success, I now have a usable tool!