How Much Work is this: Converter

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You do NOT need to replace the converter. READ THE SHOP MANUAL. I've posted this zkilliun times. Go to MyMopar and download a FREE factory shop manual

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Draining........get your pan under and remove all but a couple of bolts in one corner, then gingerly back them out to "tilt" the pan on the remaining bolt(s)

You can order "add on" drain pan plug kits from Summit they are not much money
 
HOW do you replace the fluid?
and how much?

same question how do you empty the suckeR?

A complete dry fill including converter takes about 9 quarts...

Just buy a case of trans fluid, you'll have 3 left over...
 
This can work and I have done it! Find someone with a good 220 volt mig welder. Build up a even layer of weld across where the broken tooth is. Using a file or a dremal tool or both, reshape the weld into a new tooth. Use the other teeth as a guide on their shape and length.
 
You do NOT need to replace the converter. READ THE SHOP MANUAL. I've posted this zkilliun times. Go to MyMopar and download a FREE factory shop manual

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

Draining........get your pan under and remove all but a couple of bolts in one corner, then gingerly back them out to "tilt" the pan on the remaining bolt(s)

You can order "add on" drain pan plug kits from Summit they are not much money
If the ring gear has one or more broken teeth on it, yes, for dependability the converter or the ring should be replaced in my experience. I know that it isn't a must do situation, but what happens if more teeth are broken off? Stranded one night in the middle of no where?
 
If the ring gear has one or more broken teeth on it, yes, for dependability the converter or the ring should be replaced in my experience. I know that it isn't a must do situation, but what happens if more teeth are broken off? Stranded one night in the middle of no where?

I don't understand your question. Whether teeth are broke or not has no affect on "how you repair it." If they are broken, theys iz'

...........or you mean "getting by for now" and later you break more? Well think about this........MAYBE the next time that jams up it will break the bellhousing. With an automatic, that's a pretty extensive repair.
 
I don't understand your question. Whether teeth are broke or not has no affect on "how you repair it." If they are broken, theys iz'

...........or you mean "getting by for now" and later you break more? Well think about this........MAYBE the next time that jams up it will break the bellhousing. With an automatic, that's a pretty extensive repair.
My point was that by not replacing either the converter or the ring gear he could get stranded someplace or like you say, bust up the bell housing. Too many times in the past I had customers complain about the cost of replacing the ring gear or converter and continued "getting by for now" because they were either too cheap to fix the problem, or got some bad advice from someone. In the end it often cost them more than what they would have paid either for a replacement converter or getting the ring gear changed.
The cost of a stock 727 converter is relativity inexpensive. If it was me, I'd check with my local Transtar warehouse to see what it would cost for a replacement converter and go from there. Under no circumstances would I continue to drive a car with ring gear issues.
 
CAR - is finally up in the air
removed the driveshaft
removed the starter
removed the trans/converter shield
and loosened up most of the trans bolts except for some that seem impossible to get to without removing entire motor w.Trans from car.

i didn't loosen the flex plate bolts before all of this
- will this become an issue?
how to fix if so.
 
CAR - is finally up in the air
removed the driveshaft
removed the starter
removed the trans/converter shield
and loosened up most of the trans bolts except for some that seem impossible to get to without removing entire motor w.Trans from car.

i didn't loosen the flex plate bolts before all of this
- will this become an issue?
how to fix if so.
yes/no. The trans will slide out of the converter even if the flex plate bolts are still tightened to the converter. The only issue may be the clearance needed to slide the whole trans backwards and out. you may have to play with the angle and such.

you'll have to have ALL the bell housing bolts out though as well as the crossmember.
 
okay good figured as much - clearance on this thing is the issue here.


cross member is still on and not removing till all bolts are removed and ready to pull off completely.

how do i remove the flex plate bolts with no crank .
turn at the crank?
?

i forgot to add the the battery was unplugged
first thing - been there done that.
 
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how do i remove the flex plate bolts with no crank .
turn at the crank?
?

Long breaker bar, short extension, and a big socket (might be 3/4", I can't recall) on the front dampener pulley center bolt. It turns over pretty easy if the spark plugs are out, but you don't have to take them out.
 
OKAY - i should know all of this
ive been out of the game for a while.

TDC not an issue then- with this

So, after i turn the pulley clockwise and unbolt the flexplate
i leave it as is and put everything back together and should crank right up?
 
I would sure hope so. As long as you are not removing the distributor, timing gears, or camshaft. When the crankshaft turns, everything turns with it.
 
Ok this sounds a little scary.
You say the top bolts are not yet out, and the crossmember is still in, and the flexplate is still attached to the TC. Right?
You are flirting with disaster!
I hope the engine is well supported cuz I see a broken case in your very near future!
If the above is still true,then back up the bus.....
Put the lowest two bolts back in and snug them up.
Index the flexplate to the TC with some semi-permanent mark; be it paint or Sharpie or dimples. This will make it easier to line up later.
Undo the flexplate to TC bolts.
Drain the trans and support it.This is usually done with a trans jack.
Remove the X-member.
Lower the back of the trans, to gain access to the top bolts. All of the top bolts have to come out first. If the trans won't come down, you may have to disconnect the exhaust.Remove the dipstick.
Push the TC into the trans. Secure it in there so it cannot slide forward and fall onto the floor.
Raise the trans back up about halfway.Block the engine up so everything stays there.
Get the trans jack under the trans, and tie the trans to it.The trans will be very front heavy, so put the jack as far forward as you can AND secure it to the trans jack. Jack it up a tiny bit to take a load off the engine.
Now
finally
Remove those lower 2 bolts. Give the tail a lil push to break it loose.
Back it up an inch or two, and begin the lowering process. A little down, then a little to the rear, repeat. Take note of the procedure cuz you will have to repeat this, in reverse, to get it back in there.
OK now it's down, safe and sound.
 
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Probably flex plate cracked or the hub broken out. The ring gear teeth don't cause any noise except when you are running the key to start the engine.
 
PERFECT, luckily I do have the engine/trans currently supported and no weight strain on any part.

i will snug those two lower bolts on as soon as i get home.

thank you for the perfect instructions!
 
would it make a ratchet noise like that - if

the ring gear was missing teeth and the starter was missing these teeth on the gear occasionally causing it to miss and make this SAID noise?

because it only makes this noise when it seems to come across the missing teeth while turning over and starter is engaged to turn on the car. with that said not all turnovers/crank are noisy -
 
would it make a ratchet noise like that - if

the ring gear was missing teeth and the starter was missing these teeth on the gear occasionally causing it to miss and make this SAID noise?

because it only makes this noise when it seems to come across the missing teeth while turning over and starter is engaged to turn on the car. with that said not all turnovers/crank are noisy -
Well it's almost too late to care.
You kindof got ahead of yourself.
By removing the inspection cover, you can,um......inspect...lol, the RG by turning the engine over.
During cranking,the sound of a missing tooth, is un-mistakeable, as is the sound of a slipping starter drive, or a pull-in coil that won't stay energized, or valves hitting the pistons,lol..Each of these makes a different easily distinguishable sound.
 
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