How Much Work is this: Converter

-
with all you advice guys - here is an update.

FOLLOWED EVERY STEP -

transmission is currently all unbolted and off pulled out the converter after unbolting the flex plate / undoing all the lines / etcetera.

i have the new converter ready to go - but saw an opportunity to get new transmission mount and flex plate they will be at my local auto store by 5pm today.

a problem i foresee is bolting on the flex plate onto the converter - same process but back wards?
-is there only one way these bolts come back together>? (whats the insight here) someone explained this to me but i wast 100% on it.
or
was it the bolts for the flex plate that bolt it onto the motor that they were referencing ?
 
They only fit one way, so prefit the flexplate to the TC and index any ONE spot with a Sharpie or something; that is to say; mark the plate and the TC in a way that you will be able to see both from below, or thru the starter hole. I use a yellow paint-marker. The plate only fits onto the crank one way so just spin it around until all the holes line up.
Put the TC into the trans and install the Trans TOGETHER WITH the TC.
The Tc will have to be properly seated into the front pump and onto the splines of the input shaft. This usually involves a bit of coaxing, and often ends up going in, in two steps; clunk -clunk. When it's in all the way the TC will be about 3/8 inch below a straightedge laid across the face of the bellhouse.secure it there, so it can't fall out.
After the trans is bolted back onto the engine, you will have to pull the TC out of the house and towards the crank. Then you will need to find those two index marks and line it all up. Do not torque the bolts as you go, but rather just turn them in until finger tight. If you do torque them up as you go,sometimes the last bolt might be off a smidge and then you get to start over, and that sux if the plugs are still in. And you have to screw them in pretty much all the way, or else they will snag on the back of the engine and prevent the crank from turning. On a SBM they snag on the boss that accepts the rear crank plug, as well as other places. Don't bump the engine over with the starter, crank it over by breaker-bar.
 
Last edited:
what size socket is required to spin the motor over CRANK PULLRY BOLT SIZE?- off the top of your head .... know the size?
 
Last edited:
WHAT appears to be my neutral start switch has nothing connected to it.

should a wire be connected to it?
and where should it connect?

727 tans. next to the cooler fitting
 
It's a 3-prong connector for both the NSS and the backup lights. Center prong should be the ground for the starter solenoid. Outer prongs are in the backup lights circuit.
 
If the engine starts with the missing NSS hook-up, then the start relay must be shorted to ground on purpose...... And that means she can be started in any gear..........and that could be dangerous...........especially when starting it in your garage. The workbench will be no match for your roaring engine, nor will anything between it and your bumper.........like people or pets Pets can be replaced.....
 
Sorry Big
I guess you'd like to know what to do
Well, I know you can't put the proper switch into that old case,and
I'm pretty sure you can't convert the case to accept the later sw,and
even if you could the rooster comb would be wrong,so
If the back up lights currently work, and it does not start in gear, then forget about the switch,somebody has made a work-around.
But, if the engine starts in any gear position except Park/Neutral then that should be addressed.
So, the first thing to do is find out if the sw works, and in what gear position(s).
Or hang around for a bit, Del knows this stuff or knows where to find it.
I don't remember anymore if that was an NSS, tho I'm pretty sure it was. It's easy enough to figure out tho. Just put your ohmmeter between it and ground and find out in which position(s) it becomes a closed circuit. If in Neutral and Park, then it's a NSS, and you can wire it to your start-relay
I seem to remember the 66 and older cars had that as an NSS and the reverse-lite sw was on the shifter. But I might be guessing........lol
 
Last edited:
all done!!!

got her all and buttoned up.

one issue though, it idles just fine but once out of park it acts like it wants to die.

not only motor but lights as well.... i took my battery to fully charge at the local auto parts store and they said it was good but at about 53% life.

could this be a battery issue or more than just a battery+ issue.

For the life of me i don't remember if i had a ground on the transmission. should there be one?

also a ground on the motor?

there probably is - but i am just checking off my list here.
 
Probably a charging system output issue or a very low idle speed, or a slipping belt, or a too-slow alternator drive ratio
There's no ground on the trans, but there should be one from the engine to the body somewhere. The factory put it at the rear of the passenger head to the firewall. There should be another one at the LH headlight from battery to the core support.
Crank the in-gear idle up to at least 650/700,turn on the lights, and then check that the charge system voltage is about 1 volt higher than the battery rest voltage with the engine and lights, off.

You may have to figure out why the idle speed is so low in gear. The difference from Neutral/park, to in-gear, should be less than about 100 rpm, 50 to 100 rpm would be reasonable target.
The usual culprits are; T-port sync, timing,and vacuum leaks, but a low charge-system voltage could do it too. But most systems won't start crapping out until below 10 volts.
 
Last edited:
charging system - should i get my alternator checked out? i will check connection points later.


maybe the voltage regulator?


i will also check the idle -

slipping belt - i thought this one
but will also inspect
 
That's right.
But first; what is the idle in-gear speed, without the headlights.....and with.
There is a lower limit to what the charging system can do, especially the non- isolated field type,as originally fitted to your car.
The isolated field didn't come onto the scene until 1970 (IIRC). If you still have that older system, it can easily be converted. It will charge at a higher output at the same low idle rpm.
Another option is to re-configure the pulley sizes for more alternator rpm at that same low idle-rpm. But this has the effect that at the other end of the scale, namely at redline, the alternator rpm may be high enough that the belt keeps jumping off, which is a bad thing, cuz then the engine quickly overheats.

And finally. the most common problem is the bulkhead connection. A high resistance connection here converts the electrical power to heat, instead of feeding the headlights.
And the second most common problem is the headlight switch itself. Again, a high resistance connection here, converts the incoming electrical power to heat, leaving little left over for the lights.
The regulator will sense the power loss as a heavy current draw, and kick the alternator into overdrive trying to keep up. Of course the engine senses the load and the idle speed drops because of it.
 
Last edited:
OKAY, went home last night and took one look at my voltage regulator and instantly noticed it was loose (bad ground?) possible.

little corrosion going on also so I cleaned it up and re-installed. didn't get a chance to turn on the car. i live in a neighborhood with a bunch of i don't know lets say people that go to bed at 8 pm...

also checked my connections at my alternator and noticed something off...

Got the battery connection - correct

But the positive and negative are connected to each other. ? .
 
CORRECTION - we've got the battery correction right with the positive to the voltage regulator.

but. the ground is grounded to itself = alternator (-) to alternator body..... this should be chassi or motor?
 
What alternator negative?
Are you running an isolated field alternator on the 69 and older single wire harness? Then grounding the second brush is correct, anywhere, so long as the circuit returns to the battery negative.
The small round-back isolated field alternator looks the same as the older round backs. The only difference is that the isolated field has TWO connectors for regulator wires, whereas the older style has only one connection for the regulator.
The regulators between them are also different; the older one is an electro-mechanical device,painted black, about 3.5 x 1.25 x 1.75 tall,and with screw-on terminals. The later style is all electronic, about 2.5 x 3.5 x 1/2 inch thick with just one weatherproof 2-terminal push-on and lock,connector on it.All dimensions are approximate as I'm going from memory. But you cannot mistake them, the late one is pretty flat.
You can run the isolated field alternator on either regulator,but you cannot run the old-style alt on the new style reg. Well you could but there would be some rewiring involved,lol.Both regulators must be grounded to the chassis. Both alternators are grounded to the engine by the bracketry, and from thence to the battery via the ground cable at the driver's side head. If the starter works, then I think it's safe to say,you can assume the alternator case is also grounded.
The large gauge output cable has not been referenced in the above discussion.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top