How to set timing for initial start up on new build?

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MoparMike1974

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So correct me if I am wrong here. If I wanted 30°(ex) of initial timing I would turn engine by hand and line the timing mark up to 30° btdc on #1 cylinder. Then install distributor with rotor pointing directly to #1 on the cap. Is this correct?
 
So correct me if I am wrong here. If I wanted 30°(ex) of initial timing I would turn engine by hand and line the timing mark up to 30° btdc on #1 cylinder. Then install distributor with rotor pointing directly to #1 on the cap. Is this correct?


Yup. But 40 is better than 30. They will take a bunch of timing with no load on them. Also, slow timing will make the exhaust very hot and can stick exhaust valves even with extra clearance on them.
 
It is "not quite" correct

The rotor only selects the cylinder, it does not "set" the timing.

If you are running points, once you get the rotor "on" the no1 cylinder, move the distributor retarded, then advance until the points open. Use a test lamp, etc

If you are running breakerless, set the distributor so the reluctor is in the center of the core. This is not 100% accurate

Once you "get the hang" of this you can actually turn on the ignition power, move the dist "retarded" and then "move" it towards advanced until you generate a spark. Do this back and forth several times, trying to slow down rotating your distributor, and stop the rotation right at the spark point. With practice, you can get this within a few degrees

ALSO you can set initial timing "on the starter" while cranking
 
Got it. Im running an old MP electronic distributor that came with the conversion kit I bought back in the early 90's. So basically a stock distributor.
Im not sure where to set the timing yet, just need to get it close so I can get it running on my test stand and break in the engine.
 
After preoiling, I set the engine to "0", then install the oil pump drive, then turn the crank back past 40, and back forward to 30*. Then drop in the dist so the rotor is pointing at the terminal and the appropriate "point" of the reluctor is at the pickup sensor (my running stand is Mopar electronic). You dop NOT want to keep turning the engine to set timing. The engine should not have to turn over more than twice before starting this way. The more it's turning and not running, the better the chances of a cam problem.
 
Also Fill the fuel bowls through the bowl vets so that the accelerator pumps works before you even turn the engine over. No waiting for the fuel pump to prime while cranking or the very dangerous practice of pouring gas down the carb. Engine should fire immediately if everything is set correctly.
 
It is "not quite" correct

The rotor only selects the cylinder, it does not "set" the timing.

If you are running points, once you get the rotor "on" the no1 cylinder, move the distributor retarded, then advance until the points open. Use a test lamp, etc

If you are running breakerless, set the distributor so the reluctor is in the center of the core. This is not 100% accurate

Once you "get the hang" of this you can actually turn on the ignition power, move the dist "retarded" and then "move" it towards advanced until you generate a spark. Do this back and forth several times, trying to slow down rotating your distributor, and stop the rotation right at the spark point. With practice, you can get this within a few degrees

ALSO you can set initial timing "on the starter" while cranking



If you set the crank at 40* BTDC and turn the rotor so you have taken up the advance, and line up the rotor with the number 1 post, that's exactly (or pretty dam close) where it should be.

OP, it needs at the very minimum the total timing on it you think it will run at. I never, ever start a fresh engine with OE geometry with less than 40 on it. They start better and don't generate a bunch of heat in the exhaust.
 
If you set the crank at 40* BTDC and turn the rotor so you have taken up the advance, and line up the rotor with the number 1 post, that's exactly (or pretty dam close) where it should be.

OP, it needs at the very minimum the total timing on it you think it will run at. I never, ever start a fresh engine with OE geometry with less than 40 on it. They start better and don't generate a bunch of heat in the exhaust.
Agree, I learned this the hard way, glowing red headers, skeered me LOL
 
So I should set timing mark to 40° then force the dist advance forward while setting the dist. Is 40° total generally ok for a mild 340?
 
So I should set timing mark to 40° then force the dist advance forward while setting the dist. Is 40° total generally ok for a mild 340?
No, but it is good for initial start-up and break-in, depending on the head chambers and compression it could be anywhere from 31 to 36,...it usually falls around 34........
They've pretty much got You covered on this, if You've already run the ign. and nothing has changed, make sure everything is wired & connected tight, grounds incl. If it's
new or new to You components, test the coil output for spark by hooking up & giving the dizzy a little whirl. As stated, You don't want Her cranking 1st, & diagnosing 2nd!!
 


10-12* BTDC is way too slow. You wouldn't run that total as a proper tune up.

FWIW...I didn't read all of it, but if Hughes thinks starting an engine with that little total is correct they just don't get it.

If they are compensating for the mechanical advance, then I still don't know how they get that number. You could end up with a bunch more total.
 
Fuel wont be a problem. Electric pump with MSD EFI.

Word of caution....

Break it in with a carburetor 1st, trust me.
Dial back timing light hooked up with knob to 35 for start up , bowls primed, 4 or so squirts... have someone start it and with timing light in one hand , then with the other hand turn the distributor to 0 the mark on the balancer timing tab and hold it at 2400 for 5 min then vary to 2800 for 5 min by adjusting the fast idle screw......bla bla...lol fluctuate with common sense, 2200-3000 and you'll be fine.
 
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