ignition switch

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Famous FF

Famous FF

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It's been years since I've replaced an ignition switch. I am looking to replace the ignition switch in my 67 Barracuda. And like a dummy, I don't remember how to get the chylinder tumbler out of the switch itself. Can anyone give a tutorial? Many thanks, Frank
 
I can never remember, but always can figure it out. There's a release hole. You turn the key on or accessory, one or the other, push the release, magically diddle it one way or other, and the cylinder slides right out. If I think of it later, I'll go dig mine out. It's about 5 damn degrees right now.
 
67Dart273 is right, with the bezzle un-threaded, insert key, turn on, there will be a small hole (may look brass color) insert tip of a paper clip, push down and remove tumbler. Just did this on my 64 Dart in the last 10 days. Good luck !
 
Thank you very much. That was what I couldn't remember, .......turn the key to the ON position.

Now if I could only figure out why it only starts when the engine has the momentum from spinning on the starter when I move the key to the ON position?
 
It's usually either the ballast resistor, or the switch.
 
If the engine doesn't start while cranking but it does when you let off the key, it isn't the ballast. The ballast is bypassed while cranking. You either have a bad switch or an open in the wiring somewhere. Start testing at the switch and move your way forward.
 
burdar said:
If the engine doesn't start while cranking but it does when you let off the key, it isn't the ballast. The ballast is bypassed while cranking. You either have a bad switch or an open in the wiring somewhere. Start testing at the switch and move your way forward.
Click to expand...

This. Either the IGN2 contact in the switch is bad, or a bad connection at the switch connector or in the bulkhead.
 
Either or is correct. Ballast resistor is a lot easier to replace.
 
Thank you everyone. I really don't care what everything costs. I want my Barracuda back on the road!!! I replaced the ignition switch, didn't make any difference. Bought a new ballast resistor (Does it matter what ohm it is?) The one I bought had the two terminals on each end which matched what was on the car. Replaced that and tried to start the car. It seemed to start okay. I tried starting it maybe 10 times. Still seemed to start on the spinning momentum when the key was in the "ON" position. But the I noticed my heater fan would work. And when I pushed the AC button or any of the buttons the engine continued to run. Hurrah! This has been another problem. Any time I would push a button that would normally activate the AC compressor such as AC / MAX AC / or DEFROST the engine would turn off. Now things were almost normal again. So I moved the temperature lever from heat to cool and as soon as the lever went all the way to the left "Boom, the engine stopped running". Now it cranks again, but it doesn't start at all any more, no matter where any button or where the lever position is.

Ugh!
 
Time to do some real troubleshooting. Download a shop manual:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617

You could have a bad connection in the ignition switch connector, or the bulkhead connector, or in the circuit (ammeter) feeding the ignition switch

Clip your meter to the coil + terminal and ground, and crank the engine using the key, see what the reading is during cranking.

Turn key to "run" with engine off. Read both sides of ballast to ground. One will be higher, that is what you want. Leave that meter connection, move the ground lead from ground to battery POSitive, which will give you a very low reading. The higher, the worse the voltage drop. If more than .3V or so, you are starting to have a problem. If more that that, you have a "real" problem.

Recheck the above setup with headlights off, headlights on, and see if it changes dramatically
 
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