In need of advice!!

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charged225

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Alright here's what I got, 72 duster 225 turbo charged with .833 4 speed.

I got a dead cylinder so I decided to finally put the 198 rods for modern pistons. I need rods, pistons, cam and a ball bearing turbo complete setup.

So what I'd appreciate from y'all bein the stupid 22 yr old who decided to get a duster with a six banger turbo it and beat all the novas (I know I used the n word I'm sorry); is a list of everything I need a detailed list of pretty much everything and where you guys think I can get the best price. Also making sure the rods match the pistons i.e floating or non floating pins n such.
 
Here is what is in my 225:

Molnar H-Beam Rods
Wiseco Pistons, .060 over, .040 below deck 8:5:1 static compression
Oversized valves 1.7/1.44
Mild pocket port and valve job
ARP Head Studs
COMP 252S Cam

A stock head gasket will not get the job done for serious power (300whp+) without an extremely well timed setup.

My other recommendation would be o-ring the head and a copper gasket. Or, I'm working on putting fire rings in my engine - we'll see how that works out.

That should do it for the engine. Then you need the turbo setup and a electronic fuel system.
 
Alright here's what I got, 72 duster 225 turbo charged with .833 4 speed.

I got a dead cylinder so I decided to finally put the 198 rods for modern pistons. I need rods, pistons, cam and a ball bearing turbo complete setup.

So what I'd appreciate from y'all bein the stupid 22 yr old who decided to get a duster with a six banger turbo it and beat all the novas (I know I used the n word I'm sorry); is a list of everything I need a detailed list of pretty much everything and where you guys think I can get the best price. Also making sure the rods match the pistons i.e floating or non floating pins n such.

Here is a list of my engine's parts:


1964 Valiant V200 4-door sedan, 225 slant six/904/8.75" rear (3.55:1, Sure Grip)

Block was bored .065" and fitted with Wiseco forged pistons, .167" down in the hole, which gives 9:1 CR with a stock, un-milled head and an un-modified combustion chamber. Steel head gasket, .022"-thick... ARP 220,000psi (special-order, head studs, K-1 198 rods that use ARP rod bolts, forged crank turned .010"/.010" and balanced.

Head is ported and is fitted with oversize valves (1.75"/1.5") and utilizes a homemade header, and an AussieSpeed long-runner intake manifold with a Holley 750cfm double-pumper carb that has a boost-referenced power valve and other blow-thru modifications.

Cam is a Bulllet (brand) flat tappet, solid-lifter regrind with .484" gross lift; 210/210-degrees of duration @ .050"-lift and has 115-degree lobe separation. The valve springs are new, 340 springs to which a small (weak) inner spring has been added. They supply 132-pounds on the seat and 310 open. Rocker arms and pushrods are stock (1.5 arms.)

The oil pump is stock, but a Moroso "Accusump" will be used in service (ads 3 quarts to the system.)

Red line 5,500 rpm

Ignition is by means of a stock, electronic "Lean-Burn" Mopar distributor with no vacuum canister, and no centrifugal advance mechanism of any kind (the distributor provides NO advance of any kind.) Timing is set at 18 crankshaft degrees and stays there. No "curve."

An MSD 6-AL II module is used with an MSD Blaster II coil.

This is a race car; that "tune" on the distributor might not work well on the street.

Oil pan was deepened 2.5" (sump only) and baffles added to preclude starvation under hard deceleration. It has a modified pickup for accommodating the deeper pan.

A SnowPerformance Stage I Boost Cooler alcohol/water injector was added to battle the tendency to detonate under boost. The thing starts spraying at 8 pounds of boost; #2 nozzle. A front-mounted intercooler is used to help cool the charge.

The turbo is a 66mm Turbonetics (T-4, I THINK; not sure.)

An appropriate size external waste gate was fitted to the header.

The transmission is a 1973 Slant 6 904 with a 2.74 first gear and a reverse-pattern, full-manual Turbo-Action valve body.

The converter is a 3,500rpm-stall, Hughes

7290 U-Joints are attached to large-size yokes on both ends of the 3"-diameter drive-shaft, while the axles are Yukon high-strength units with Green bearings.

CalTrac traction bars, 50-50 shocks and weld-in sub-frame connectors are used with 90-10 front shocks and aftermarket disk brakes in front.

A six-point roll bar was welded in and a drive-shaft loop added.

The fuel system consists of a Summit 8-gallon fuel cell, two inline filters (one before and one after the Walbro GSL392 electric pump,) and an Aeromotive boost-referenced fuel-pressure regulator, set at 6psi.


The car weighs 2,680 pounds without a driver. It has a fiberglass hood, battery in the trunk, no front bumper, no rear seat and light-weight front buckets. A Turbo-Action "Cheetah" floor shifter is used.

It has an electrically-driven fan and water pump.

Slicks are the biggest we could get to fit (9"-wide, 26"-tall on 8"-wide rims.) They are Hoosiers.

Coil-spring accessory "helper springs" raise the rear for (needed) added tire clearance.

My engine is 233 cubic inches and is a copy-cat attempt at motors run by both Tom Wolfe and Ryan Peterson. Their engines make amazing power and I am hoping to emulate their success, to some extent, with this one.

Ryan's '66 Valiant weighs about 2,800 pounds and runs 127mph in the quarter, with a 727 transmission. Tom's '70 Dart is somewhat heavier at 3300 pounds and runs 120+ into a 15mph headwind, so they are probably pretty close in power.

If my engine can produce within 100 horsepower of what theirs do, I'll be very happy. This is my first attempt at a slant six an a first-ever turbo motor, so I am just learning.

My car is just getting finished and ready for some shakedown runs. Wish me luck; I’m gonna need it!!!

G:cheers:
 

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