Hi there , i'm not sure if my top has been fitted correctly as top has torn on both driver and passenger sides just behind where the rear passenger window is on the body. its very tight. where my top has been fitted around the rear end and side it is on top of the body with the chrome surround screwed down on top. i hope i'm making sense.I've been advised that maybe the top should be underneath the body so the water runs down into the water drip channel around the boot well. any helpfull suggestions would be appreciated.Jim
installation of convert top 63 dart
- Thread starter vevaliant
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I didn't have my coffee yet and missed that, you will be needing a new top and install it correctly, that is completely wrong and I don't think the top will be salvageable.
You need to post some pics though, so we can see how it was done.
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
I just looked at the install pictures in the manual for the 66 dart and it should be similar it shows the top is on the outside of the car and held down by the tack strip and stainless moulding EXCEPT for where it transitions along the side of the car about 4 inches or so from the quarter window and then it has a notch and it goes inside the top boot well for water drainage
so the top goes like this
quarter window inner side of car into well (4-6 inches I'll see if the manual gives a measurement) then notched so that you can put it(the top) outside and hold it down using the tack strips and moulding. the inner part was loose and let the top fold back without the ripping that you(and mine too! had) there was a great looking cream colored 66 dart being done in maylasia i think that showed the top being installed and you could see the notch in it while the top was being installed. I can't remember the link but it should be in members restorations forum
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
ahhh found the pic's
ok here you can see how the top goes into the inside of the car and where it transitions to the outside so the trim can hold it tight
View attachment dart top pic.jpg
View attachment dart top pic 2.jpg
it was a Maylasian (SP) restoration hmm I think.
hope this helps (mine was torn in the quarter window area also)
View attachment ripped top.jpg
ok here you can see how the top goes into the inside of the car and where it transitions to the outside so the trim can hold it tight
View attachment dart top pic.jpg
View attachment dart top pic 2.jpg
it was a Maylasian (SP) restoration hmm I think.
hope this helps (mine was torn in the quarter window area also)
View attachment ripped top.jpg
WhodatReggie
Active Member
I know this is a 11 year old post... but it is what I have been looking for!!!!!... Gads why hasn't someone posted photos of this?....Can anyone offer better details on this install?... My install has been on hold cause I could not find photos....Anybody care to help out?
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
different top makers do it a few different ways but that flap you see in the red car witht he white top goes inside to the well liner that way water infiltration will be drained onto the well and onto the ground from the drain ubes It help when teh top is being folded down too since the most common error is ripped tops in that area because people didn't know to leave it loose as in the last picture
WhodatReggie
Active Member
Thanks for your photo and the mention of no screws in the area boxed . I do have a question...if the portion of the top is to be put on the well side do you have to cut the fabric to cross over to the outside of the belt line?....without cutting a vertical cut of about one inch to enable the edge material to be long enough to be secured, I cannot pull the material that goes over the body edge to be fastened under the retainer... Am I missing something?
WhodatReggie
Active Member
Fyi...I have a 1965 Dodge Dart Convertible. Top was purchased from Classic Industries. It came with a warranty from Kee Auto Top. It looks like the white top/red car (with the box shown). Top is made of Excellent Material.
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
as you can see in the red and cream colored car there are 2 styles of cut transitions AND some are sewn in the split area to actually transition over the lip and others are just cut(90% of them), pull the side panel down and make sure you to NOT cut past the pull down area and tack strip(you don't want it showing when you drop the top). I only cut mine 2.5 inches or so. and it drains the water nicely along with letting the top fold down without stressing the fabric, but mine and the last 2 I did were Ez-On tops
WhodatReggie
Active Member
Cut 2.5" where? off the reinforced tail?... Im lost...stupid maybe
WhodatReggie
Active Member
Hope u b patient with me...i b slow
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
mine was uncut in this section and I had to make that cut upwards to the quarter panel (green line) mine was long and I had to trim it to fit like that picture (and a tiny bit more after I stretched the top and sail panels into place .)
WhodatReggie
Active Member
I assume that the green line upward is the location of the crossover to the outside of the quarter panel from the well liner side. Am i understanding correctly?
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
yes that's where it crosses over. sometime you have to do a bit more to get a clean transition and look when the top is up. each top and car are a bit different in measurements.
WhodatReggie
Active Member
Thanks for your quick reply...Here goes the adventure...
WhodatReggie
Active Member
I still have confusion... Let me see if I understand correctly looking at your photo I cut what is necessary to get to the top ridge of the quarter panel after pull down another 1" + or - from the green line shown upward. Could you use a different color and mark your existing photo to show where to cut. It will help me to understand the point you are trying to make. Fyi cutting that extra inch or so...leaves the reinforce area on my top. Thxs for your time and help. I'm bewildered
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Finally installing a top in my 1964 Valiant. I fixed up the frame years ago. Using a canvas top kit from Convertible Top Guys. The top came from Kee in Charlotte, NC and the hardware box from M & T Manufacturing in Wakefield, RI. The manual ($30) was more confusing than helpful since my Valiant top varies in many ways. It mostly says, "follow existing top", but my top was only remnants, with perhaps some parts missing. I have the 1964 and 1965 shop manuals (later is for my 65 Dart 2 dr). The 1965 manual adds a section on replacing the top, but not enough details. What I think I figured out, but please check-my-math and correct:
1. There is no "tack strip" or "trim stick" at the rear bottom. Most cars have them (usually 3), including the 1967 A-body in this forum's sticky. The well liner, rear curtain, and main top would be stapled to it, and the sticks would then bolt to the body on the inside of the opening. There are no holes for that in my 1964. Instead you glue both the liner, curtain, and main top (that order) to the top of the rear body lip. The 1963 Fury in this useful video is the same:
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/tips-for-replacing-your-b-body-convertible-top-like-a-pro/
A steel trim retainer (3 parts?) screws down on top of that, shown in above video and post 8. My car didn't have a rear retainer(s), just the chrome trim with screws w/ male posts to secure the boot cover. Is that correct for 1964? The chrome trim doesn't appear to even have lips which would snap onto a retainer.
2. The two center bows do not connect to the top, only to the side pads which are stapled to short tack strips at the ends. The top just rests against felt strips in the main part of the bows. Same in above video. The front bow has little steel wings which bolt to it and extend outward to help support the top and give a curved corner. The 2nd bow transitions to the curved surface of the rear aluminum lift arm. The side cable spring attaches just below that on the side of the arm. Confused me since the kit manual suggested that tops usually attach to most center bows, often via cloth listings glued to the tops and you staple the listings to tack strips in the bow.
3. The rear bow needs a tack strip, but the channel is 0.6" deep. The 1/2" tack strips which came in the kit are only 3/16" thick. In above video, the tack strip stands ~0.1" proud of the rear bow. Closest I see on ebay is 1/2" x 7/8", so if stuck "sideways" would sit 0.275" proud (too tall, plus only 4 ft long and $40). I ordered 6 ft of the same 1/2" tack strip so I can double it up. I've been using E6000 glue, but will use some drops of Gorilla Glue (polyurethane) too. I don't see any holes in the rear bow to secure the tack strip. OE might have been a more sticky rubber material, rather than the shiny plastic sold today. The factory used long staples (3/4"?) which penetrated into the steel channel of the bow. Might be "correct", but I'll stick with 3/8" long stainless staples and hope the glue holds. If ordering a new top kit, best to tell the company what tack strips you need.
4. I agree that the front of the main top's quarter panel section should drop down into the lift channel and just float unsecured. You only start attaching it to the top of the body lip as post 8 shows. Rainwater should just run down thru the body. I'll carefully move the top up and down while starting the attachment to the body to insure no forces which might rip the top.
A 1967 factory bulletin added spring-wire to the rear bow arm corner (clamps under 2 bolts) to push the top out so it doesn't get scissor'ed by the mechanism. Might work, and seems prudent, for early-A's too. A member here recently began selling those wire pushers ($60).
The Malaysian car in post 8 is Syed's. He made several posts years ago. Slant-six w/ RH drive so a remote funky oil filter housing (frees up room for steering box). Aussie slants are likely the same. He had a custom AC bracket made, so knows some clever workers there, though not sure one squatting atop and smoking is ideal.
1. There is no "tack strip" or "trim stick" at the rear bottom. Most cars have them (usually 3), including the 1967 A-body in this forum's sticky. The well liner, rear curtain, and main top would be stapled to it, and the sticks would then bolt to the body on the inside of the opening. There are no holes for that in my 1964. Instead you glue both the liner, curtain, and main top (that order) to the top of the rear body lip. The 1963 Fury in this useful video is the same:
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/tips-for-replacing-your-b-body-convertible-top-like-a-pro/
A steel trim retainer (3 parts?) screws down on top of that, shown in above video and post 8. My car didn't have a rear retainer(s), just the chrome trim with screws w/ male posts to secure the boot cover. Is that correct for 1964? The chrome trim doesn't appear to even have lips which would snap onto a retainer.
2. The two center bows do not connect to the top, only to the side pads which are stapled to short tack strips at the ends. The top just rests against felt strips in the main part of the bows. Same in above video. The front bow has little steel wings which bolt to it and extend outward to help support the top and give a curved corner. The 2nd bow transitions to the curved surface of the rear aluminum lift arm. The side cable spring attaches just below that on the side of the arm. Confused me since the kit manual suggested that tops usually attach to most center bows, often via cloth listings glued to the tops and you staple the listings to tack strips in the bow.
3. The rear bow needs a tack strip, but the channel is 0.6" deep. The 1/2" tack strips which came in the kit are only 3/16" thick. In above video, the tack strip stands ~0.1" proud of the rear bow. Closest I see on ebay is 1/2" x 7/8", so if stuck "sideways" would sit 0.275" proud (too tall, plus only 4 ft long and $40). I ordered 6 ft of the same 1/2" tack strip so I can double it up. I've been using E6000 glue, but will use some drops of Gorilla Glue (polyurethane) too. I don't see any holes in the rear bow to secure the tack strip. OE might have been a more sticky rubber material, rather than the shiny plastic sold today. The factory used long staples (3/4"?) which penetrated into the steel channel of the bow. Might be "correct", but I'll stick with 3/8" long stainless staples and hope the glue holds. If ordering a new top kit, best to tell the company what tack strips you need.
4. I agree that the front of the main top's quarter panel section should drop down into the lift channel and just float unsecured. You only start attaching it to the top of the body lip as post 8 shows. Rainwater should just run down thru the body. I'll carefully move the top up and down while starting the attachment to the body to insure no forces which might rip the top.
A 1967 factory bulletin added spring-wire to the rear bow arm corner (clamps under 2 bolts) to push the top out so it doesn't get scissor'ed by the mechanism. Might work, and seems prudent, for early-A's too. A member here recently began selling those wire pushers ($60).
The Malaysian car in post 8 is Syed's. He made several posts years ago. Slant-six w/ RH drive so a remote funky oil filter housing (frees up room for steering box). Aussie slants are likely the same. He had a custom AC bracket made, so knows some clever workers there, though not sure one squatting atop and smoking is ideal.
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