Need a new Torque Converter... Suggestions?

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Divenut

Divenut

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Hey Folks,

Pulled the 727 from the Duster on Father's Day to repair a leaking front seal (Will also replace shifter and rear seals while it is out). I think I found the reason! So it looks like I'll be ordering a new TC. I have no idea on the brand of the old TC, the PO stated it had about a 3100 stall and was at least 10 years old.

Two Questions:

1. What might cause this sort of damage? I recently tracked a vibration down to a bad transmission mount, perhaps that had something to do with it? Also, I was a little concerns that all but one of the bell housing to block mounting bolts were literally hand tight.

2. Looking for a reasonably priced TC ($300 range) and thinking maybe 2600ish? stall as the current TC tended sort of freewheel when cruising at rpms lower than 3100 -3200 or so. I have no history on the motor other than it has been built and balanced at some point, KB pistons, no specs on the cam. It is great off the line (other than traction issues), though it does seem to make power/pull hard at the higher end of the rpm range. Primarily use the car for cruising, but will definitely see some occasional track duty. Any input on TC brands?

Thanks in advance!
Pat

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I'll second Ultimate been running his converter for 6 seasons now not one issue..Lenny is "the man" when it comes to converters:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Awhile back I got a Hughes 2500 stall converter for free, my buddy said it was just under $400 it works real well, mild built 340, time slips point to just over 400 H.P. Takes off way better than the stock converter. Is great around town to! I have heard that Hughes is one of the better off the shelf brands.

Jeff
 
for $300 i have no idea what you are gonna buy that is be good for your car..

if i were doing it i'd call in no real order (see below). pretty sure they will all be over three hundred dollars though.. i hope you change that front trans bushing too.. thats what tore up the converter.

dynamic (lupo)
PTC
ultimate
 
What you're looking at is normal wear and tear on the hub. Nothing unusual about that after 10 years of use. You'll need to replace the front pump seal, and the front pump bushing.
Changing to a lower stall speed can/will effect the way your car performs. Converters built higher than 2800 rpm are usually custom built to match what has been done performance wise to the engine. High stall converters are loose below their rated stall speed, hence they will feel sluggish until they get past their rated stall speed. You can order what is called a "tight" high stall converter, but the converter builder will ask you a lot of questions about the engine you might not have the answers for.
If it was me, I might ask them what can be done to the converter you now have. The hub will be replaced for sure and they may be able to adjust the stall somewhat to get you that "tight" converter. Getting a "quality" converter for in the $300.00 range is going to be difficult. With converters, having seen the insides of many brands, you get exactly what you pay for.
Your converter appears to have an anti-ballooning plate, and externally looks like a well made piece.
I'd contact Lenny and ask what he thinks.
 
abodyjoe said:
for $300 i have no idea what you are gonna buy that is be good for your car..

if i were doing it i'd call in no real order (see below). pretty sure they will all be over three hundred dollars though.. i hope you change that front trans bushing too.. thats what tore up the converter.

dynamic (lupo)
PTC
ultimate
Click to expand...

Looks like alphabetical order to me. :poke:
 
transman said:
If it was me, I might ask them what can be done to the converter you now have. The hub will be replaced for sure and they may be able to adjust the stall somewhat to get you that "tight" converter. Your converter appears to have an anti-ballooning plate, and externally looks like a well made piece.
I'd contact Lenny and ask what he thinks.
Click to expand...

Hey, Thanks much Transman, I never even considered that the hub could be replaced. Will definitely have to explore that option.

Pat
 
After genading a rebuilt TC in my 440 powered 4x4 Ramcharger, I went with a Hughes Towmaster. It was manufactured with Torrington bearings in lieu of the lesser quality "washers". I ran that thing 10 years with NO issues. Lots of towing and other stresses that a truck generates. Plus the heat of Arizona summers.
 
Looking back on your original post, give the specs to the convertor guy but I can't se dropping from a 3100 stall. That isn't **** in the world of modern convertors. My 3500 feels totally stock. You feel lit bump into gear. No slip. roll on light throttle it just goes as well. Mash it to the floor and it wings to 3500 and goes like a raped ape.
 
Converter technology has improved vastly in past 10 years or so. There are many good companies building them now days. I have used Frank Lupo of Dynamic Converters for many many years. The only ones I use. Don't "save" money on a cheap converter!
 
Frank Lupo built me a 10 1/2" 3000 stall for my 69 Dart cost $495.00 and 4200 stall 9" w/ billet cover for my 416 68 Barracuda cost $795.00. Both were well worth the money.
 
Can anyone explain how exactly torque convertor technology has improved over time?

I love my Dynamic converter btw. Too bad it was over twice the OP's budget. For a "budget convertor," I've heard Hughes makes a good one off the shelf.
 
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mopowers said:
Can anyone explain how exactly torque convertor technology has improved over time?
Click to expand...


the whole design.. in the past 3000 stall was pretty much max for the street.. the things would slip and cause a lot of heat. today with the smaller case and a lot of positive pitch they will stall high but lock up like a stock converter on the street... very rfficient.. djvcuda did an article in mopar enthusiast years ago that really explained it well.. wish i could find the article..
 
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abodyjoe said:
the whole design.. in the past 3000 stall was pretty much max for the street.. the things would slip and cause a lot of heat. today with the smaller case and a lot of positive pitch they will stall high but lock up like a stock converter on the street... djvcuda did an article in mopar enthusiast years ago that really explained it well.. wish i could find the article..
Click to expand...

That makes sense. I just wish I knew a little more about converters to better understand the why.
 
I got mine from edge racing for my 440 dart. 2400 stall one was less than 300....like 240ish if I remember correct. Been very happy with mine.
 
Hey, thanks for all the information and recommendations everyone. You guys rock! Think I'll give Lenny a call next week to see if it might make sense to try to service my TC. Planning to replace the 3:23s in my 742 for something in the 3:90 range, so a may want to stick with the higher stall after all. Decisions...decisions....

Be well folks,
Pat
 
Sell that convertor, some cheap *** like me will throw a $20 speedi-sleeve on it and run it in a thrasher.
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I run a PTC in my scamp. $475 custom built to my exact setup. 3000 stall. 9.5 inch billet front unit. It's wound great, no crazy slippage even with the much higher stall. With light throttle it barely runs 100rpm higher, even less. At higher throttle positions you can tell it's slipping a little more, but still barely anything, then you mat it and it flashes and you better hold on. It was an interesting change going from my off the shelf b&m 2400 to the new unit. But once I got used to it I loved it. Flashes hard and absolutely roasts the tires.

So I second PTC. Their price was the best out of everyone I talked to. But as others mentioned, ultimate, dynamic, there's also TCS up here in canada on the west coast. They make good stuff too. Best thing to do is just send your spec sheet in to all of them and see what you get back.
 
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