New Holley 1920 Needed

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mydart270

myDart270
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hi and hello:

great forum...great people..great knowledge. This forum saved me so many times. Now in need of a carb for my 1968 Dodge Dart 270.

carb is a Holly 1- bbl model 1920. Book shows R-3919-A, R-3921-A, R-3920-A, R-3922-A. Don't know what I have so where can I get a replacement w/ ethanol parts installed??? Who is a good carb rebuild specialist? Should I buy manufactured at $300 from NAPA?? My cam steps are completely worn and lots of twists in linkage...guy before was a klutz!!!

Many thx for advice/comments/recommendations. Long live 1968 Dodge Darts!
 
For a long time now, "remanufactured" carbs have been junk. See here.

Nothing runs as well as a new carburetor—a real one, new old stock, not the Chinese "100% new!" knockoff junk, and not the Argentinian "looks almost kinda like a Holley 1920 except it's pretty much not" units. Every day it gets harder to find a really good carburetor for these cars. I used to have a whole wall shelf full of 'em; almost all of them are sold and gone, though I still have the odd one or two including a primo unit for the '60-'65 cars with rod-operated throttle (won't fit your car). Maybe I should have sat on all of them; prices have gone up in accord with scarcity!

Two kinds of carb were factory equipment on Slant-6s in the 1962-'73 year range: the Holley 1920 and the Carter BBS. Which one any particular car wound up with was a matter not only of specification but also of what was at hand when it came time to install a carb on an engine at an assembly plant. The Carter BBS has some fairly large design and engineering advantages over the (especially 1964-up) Holley 1920, so if you were facing a choice between a brand new 1920 and a brand new BBS, the BBS would be the one to pick. These days, primo carbs are scarce enough that condition is more important than brand—that is, if the choice were new 1920 vs used/rebuilt BBS, the 1920 would probably be the winning bet.

If you can afford it, go pounce on this carb (has a "make offer" option; try and see if they'll knock $100 off). It's one of the best BBSs, with all the improvements (gradient power valve, bypass idle air metering, hot idle compensator, etc) and a big truck-spec venturi. It will drop directly onto your '68; the air cleaner will drop on, the throttle and kickdown linkage will hook right up, the distributor vacuum advance and PCV hoses will go right on. The new carb's bowl vent hose is meant for use with the system described here, which your '68 doesn't have; no matter, just leave that hose open to the atmosphere and you've got practically the same bowl vent arrangement as a '68 carb. The new carb will also have one additional small vacuum nipple meant for use with the '70-up thermostatic air cleaner; put a cap on it. The only other adaptation necessary is that the BBS has a front fuel inlet, vs. the 1920's side fuel inlet. You can either make a new filter-to-carb line out of a short piece of 5/16" brake line tubing, or take the excuse to do the Fuel line mod and do yourself a favor.

If the previous owner was a hamfisted klutz, it's likely he boogered up the choke thermostat and pushrod; these are frequently found bent and twisted all out of line. Grab a № 1231 Electric choke kit, drop on and hook up.

The BBS in as-received condition will tolerate today's E10 gasohol (10% ethanol) fine.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread.
 
I can do a rebuild for you, recolor, that would be ultrasonic cleaned, zinc dichromate, replate with cad, silver or yellow. I just depends on how worn out it is, and not sure on E85 parts, would have to do some calling around. PM me and I can give you my number.
Brian
 
NOS carb would be a good start I don't think I would pay $400 for it because it will need gaskets and all the rubber stuff, I'm sure they would be dried out.
 
No, it will not need gaskets or other stuff. I've done this enough times with enough NOS carbs to know it will run just fine (and keep the gasoline on the inside where it belongs) without a teardown. Use an unbent paperclip to gently push the inlet needle away from its seat (they tend to stick when sitting for years on the shelf), shoot some light oil (Liquid Wrench or Blaster) into the bowl through the internal vent pipe and operate the throttle a dozen times to oil the accelerator pump plunger, drop the carb on and off you go.
 
Wow, they are $400 proud of that "cheap" 1 bbl carb. The Carter BBS is a simple, rugged carb. I have one on my 1964 Valiant and it idles so smooth you can barely tell the engine is running. I would rather put that much money towards a 4 bbl manifold, even the ultra-cool Hurricane w/ long runners. You can still get 4 bbl carbs cheap, and they have rebuild kits and such. Problem is finding a small one for a slant, 370 cfm being ideal and definitely not over 600 cfm. With a 4 bbl, you can also mount TBI fuel injection, for better drive-ability and mileage. A recent kit is <$1000 (posts here, forgot the name). I think it uses standard MPFI injectors so you might swap in smaller injectors like for a motorcycle.
 
Back, since I just ran across something for your consideration:
Mopar 225 Slant Six 2BBL Super Six Package: Intake, Carburator and Air Cleaner | eBay

$285 w/ shipping if nobody else sees it, and how would they since the gomer can't spell "carburetor".
Upside is a rebuilt Carter BBD, which flows more air (power) than a BBS and easier to source in the future. Aluminum intake is very light. Air filter housing included.
Downside is it appears to be missing needed kickdown linkage for an auto transmission, those factory e-beam welded intakes are sometimes porous (leak air) and have dog-ugly welds.
Search "Super Six" for much info here.
 
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