Noob question 727 really low shift points

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I'm not sure how much he drove it, It was parked at the tire store for a couple of months and then I seen it parked in a driveway. I never saw it driving on the road.

Jeff
 
J Par (Jason) on here did his own 904 for the first auto trans he ever did and took it to the racetrack afterwards making some decent times.:D

Wow :eek:

That's impressive. Will the 904 bolt up with mine or would I need to do some adjusting? If I were so inclined to try that?
 
I'm not sure how much he drove it, It was parked at the tire store for a couple of months and then I seen it parked in a driveway. I never saw it driving on the road.

Jeff

Ok, well I guess I can hope its still in a decent condition then. The guy I bought it from bought it from the guy you talked to I believe and the guy I bought it from never even had it on the road so.... crossing my fingers.
 
I'm about 55 miles away, I used to always go to the yearly Mopar meet but the last ten or so years my back has got so bad I can't walk to far, I might have to get me an old man scooter! Buy the way I'm glad that someone (you) got that car and is willing to put the work into it. Thanks.

Jeff
 
I'm about 55 miles away, I used to always go to the yearly Mopar meet but the last ten or so years my back has got so bad I can't walk to far, I might have to get me an old man scooter! Buy the way I'm glad that someone (you) got that car and is willing to put the work into it. Thanks.

Jeff

Sorry to hear about your back, my wife is fighting it right now, she's been on disability from MUSC for 4 months now. South Eastern Spine Institute is doing everything they can for her but it's not working. She's got a bulged disk that's pressuring one of the major nerves so the pain is at the back and also down her leg, not sciatic but the one in the front, femoral I think? Can't remember for sure. It's rough though, she's in a lot of pain a lot of the time. Back injuries suck, period.

As for the car, thanks and I'm glad to be on hopefully the right path with this. I'm trying to do as much work as I can to keep my total investment down but there are times when I think what the hell, I can afford this and have to reign myself back in :D
 
Hate to hear about your wife, I know how she feels, Tell her I hope she gets better soon. The next time I go buy the tire shop I'll pull in and see if the fella knows anything about the Dart. I've talked to him about front end alignment specs and he liked my car, He laughed when I said he couldn't drive it after the alignment to check it out but could ride along!

Jeff
 
Hate to hear about your wife, I know how she feels, Tell her I hope she gets better soon. The next time I go buy the tire shop I'll pull in and see if the fella knows anything about the Dart. I've talked to him about front end alignment specs and he liked my car, He laughed when I said he couldn't drive it after the alignment to check it out but could ride along!

Jeff

Thanks, I'll let her know. Yea, I bet he was looking forward to driving it and was seriously let down since you didn't let him lol.
 
Wow :eek:

That's impressive. Will the 904 bolt up with mine or would I need to do some adjusting? If I were so inclined to try that?

The normal every day 904 will bolt right up to any Mopar small block. (even the V6's)
Most newer automatics from rear wheel drive mopars will as well.
I'm running a 42RH (A500OD) behind my 5.9 Magnum.
(80mph at 2,100 RPM's and 25+ mpg doing it.) on the hiway.
Around town?
Who cares.:D


I'm about 55 miles away, I used to always go to the yearly Mopar meet but the last ten or so years my back has got so bad I can't walk to far, I might have to get me an old man scooter! Buy the way I'm glad that someone (you) got that car and is willing to put the work into it. Thanks.

Jeff

You should drive there instead of walking, besides I don't think a scooter will go that far on a charge.
 
"Ok, so when I got the car, I got nothing to go on, literally guy lied and said it was a 360, it's actually a 340"
Yeah the 360 main bearings were a weak point. plus i'm not a big fan of the long stroke crankshaft.

I say lucky you, 340 is much better than a 360. Did you check the side of the block to verify?
Torqueflites are one of the easiest transmissions to rebuild. There are many books out there on rebuilding them. My opinion is that transmission probably has some damage since it was run low on fluid (for how long??) and the lack of KD linkage. Unfortunately it will require more than just dropping the pan to know the extent of the damage.
I love 727s, yes very easy to rebuild. just watch the tolerances.
 
I think Dave has a 904 not a 727. The pick where he shows fluid and debris @ bottom of pan looks like a 904 pan. Just clearing things up.
 
I think Dave has a 904 not a 727. The pick where he shows fluid and debris @ bottom of pan looks like a 904 pan. Just clearing things up.
I've got a couple of pics from the back of the car moving forward, not sure if this will help identify it.

IMG_1156.JPG


IMG_1157.JPG


IMG_1158.JPG
 
A couple of questions I wanted to ask, when installing this cable, would it be worth it to try and remove the shifter to have better access to the pump linkage? Would it even be more access?

On a different topic, I'm going to be tackling the lower control arm bushings today as well which means popping the tortion bars. Since this was a slant 6 car originally, would it be worth upgrading the tortion bars since it's a heavier motor? Or are the bars over engineered enough that they can handle any motor?
 
I installed my lokar cable lastnight on my dart. Do yourself a favor and remove the 4 crossmember bolts and lower the transmission down. It'll give you so much more room.
 
I installed my lokar cable lastnight on my dart. Do yourself a favor and remove the 4 crossmember bolts and lower the transmission down. It'll give you so much more room.

How much can it come down still attached to the motor? Do I need to lift the motor at the same time?
 
Bigger bars for sure would not hurt, I'm running 1.03 bars from PST with Bilstein shocks, all can say is if you do this you will be very HAPPY! The bars are under engineered.

Jeff
 
Bigger bars for sure would not hurt, I'm running 1.03 bars from PST with Bilstein shocks, all can say is if you do this you will be very HAPPY! The bars are under engineered.

Jeff

Ok, where's the best place to order them? Summit? Jegs?
 
PST is a sponsor here on FABO, shocks and t-bars, Members get a 10% discount I believe. Maybe under engineered was the wrong word, they are not up to the newer tires, radial not bias ply.

Jeff
 
PST is a sponsor here on FABO, shocks and t-bars, Members get a 10% discount I believe. Maybe under engineered was the wrong word, they are not up to the newer tires, radial not bias ply.

Jeff
No worries about why they should be replaced, just thinking that if I'm going to do this, I'd rather only do it once, so if I have to break them out, might as well replace them when they're out
 
How much can it come down still attached to the motor? Do I need to lift the motor at the same time?

I pulled my distributor so it wouldn't hit the firewall. But I don't think it was necessary. I have rubber motor mounts and they flex enough that I didn't mess with loosening them.
Just support the trans with a jack, remove the 4 crossmember bolts and the one trans mount nut. Remove the crossmember completely. And slowly lower the jack down a few inches. I left the jack under it just to support it while I worked on it.
 
Bigger bars for sure would not hurt, I'm running 1.03 bars from PST with Bilstein shocks, all can say is if you do this you will be very HAPPY! The bars are under engineered.

Jeff

a lot depends on intended purpose
if he is building a corner carver, im with you
but if his build a 1/4 drag racer, i would leave the slanty bars in
 
a lot depends on intended purpose
if he is building a corner carver, im with you
but if his build a 1/4 drag racer, i would leave the slanty bars in

Thanks this is just going to be my daily driver, no crazy auto crossing or dragging just me and an occasional heavy right foot.
 
I pulled my distributor so it wouldn't hit the firewall. But I don't think it was necessary. I have rubber motor mounts and they flex enough that I didn't mess with loosening them.
Just support the trans with a jack, remove the 4 crossmember bolts and the one trans mount nut. Remove the crossmember completely. And slowly lower the jack down a few inches. I left the jack under it just to support it while I worked on it.

Ok that's good I just didn't want to put too much stress on anything, that trans is pretty heavy so just concerning to me. Now that it's been determined this is a 904 do I still need the kick down? Any difference in operation? Or it's needed for either one?
 
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