Side View Mirror Stuff FWIW

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Daves69

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I've had this '74(?) remote side mirror for a long time. Not a gem by any means with some pitting in the chrome and pretty floppy (loose) but good glass. I thought I'd use it as a guinea pig and get into it a bit. Here's what I found that may or may not help someone..........

In another thread I think Redfish said at previously the glass is held in by "black stuff from hell(?)". I believe this is similar to the old aquarium glass sealer that was used before silicone. It is very tough stuff. It appears in the four recessed spots of the thin aluminum back that the remote cables attach to. Using a heat gun and X-acto type spatula knife I was able to pull the glass off the back. I got in a bit of a hurry and unfortunately managed to chip the edge. But I'd say if one finds an original glass in good condition one could possibly save it. Just take your time spreading the glass away from the back. Glasses and gloves alert! Note there is a small lip around the OD of the back so you'll need to pry down into with thin a sharp tool. Too much, too quick, and...chip. Start between two of the four spots and slice through the black stuff working your way around the mirror glass. The knife seemed to work best slicing slowly from the inside toward the outside. A 6" rule was used to keep the already separated areas apart.
Some pictures for your viewing pleasure......................
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I haven't glued the lens back in as yet as the "flop" was still there. Looking at it (picture above) the point in center of the aluminum back is the pivot. The three cable ends surround it. Where they come through the back all three had clearance (like they are sticking out too far) allowing the mirror to flop around.
What I'm trying is a small nylon washer placed between the mirror back center point and the cast pivot (bottom picture, left). To gain clearance for the washer I compressed the remote spring behind the joy stick with a valve spring compressor and 7/16" socket (bottom picture, right). This washer has eliminated the flop without the glass in it. Don't know if the glass weight will affect the result.
I have no idea for how long this type of fix can last.

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What will you use to stick it back together?

Good write-up.
Now, just send that bad boy to me for a little customization to the back of the glass...:)
C

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What will you use to stick it back together?

.......

I haven't decided just what sticky stuff to use. Maybe even double sided molding tape.
But I did take an aftermarket mirror apart also for the "flop" condition. It has only 3 spots of what appears to be similar to Liquid Nails holding it on. Kinda' thinking to try it on the aftermarket first.
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Lets call the little end pieces crimped onto the cable end ferrules. Those 3 ferrules at the mirror end of the cables have or had a half ball shape ( approx' 1/16 radius ) facing the backing plate. The earlier the build date of the mirror, the larger that ball radius. Why they reduced the size of that ball end ferrule ?, I have no clue. I know the result is the plate distorting. Weight of glass, spring pressure, repeated jarring from door movement, combines to generate the distortion. Smaller ball=smaller surface area= more rapid failure. If you look at your 4th pic from top close enough, the light shadowing reveals this distortion. This is where the cable slack originates. Same thing will happen to earlier builds with the larger ferrule, just takes a bit longer.
I don't know for sure but I expect your patch washer will force the mirror to return to a certain position ( dictated by the 3 cable lengths, patch washer shape ) repeatedly. Good luck with it.
From my first go at this way back in early 80s... 3 small "split shot" weights from a fishing tackle box was a good fix for several years. I'm sure those aren't as good as they once were either.
 
SO.....both mirrors are glued back in. Didn't try the Liquid Nails as it's not recommended for wet locations. I decided to go with Gorilla Construction as it's all weather, for mirrors (and a bunch of other stuff), non expanding, and (believe it or not) made in USA. Applied in the original 4 spots then clamped the mirror back in with light duty clamps for 24 hrs.
Seems tight and adjusts with the stick. Even better, it hasn't fallen off yet!
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FYI, this was a "just to see if" project. Now if I only had a car to put it on.
 
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