Spring Relocation without mini tub...

[gdrill]

Rhe off set shackle and hanger kit moves the springs in to the same depth as the wheel wells. And you can still get an exhaust on with the factory fuel tank.

These can be made and installed easy. I have some of the original kits here if you need pics. It moves the springs in 1 inch per side. The kits have the nuts welded on the wrong side on the front mounts. There is a better way to install these without slotting the frame. I have done many. This would be the the way to do your car and not do any mods to the frame or body except for enlarging one inner hole on each side of the front inner side of the rail.

This car came to me with one of these kits that was done in the early 70's. You can see they didn't even move the perches on the rearhousing. They drilled a hole 1 inch over and slotted the perch for the U-bolt. When I got this car it was a drag car with 10 inch slicks on it on 9 inch wheels. On a lay down back seat car this would be the way to go. These are not being used on this car I am restoring it to original.

I do have a mini tubbed car myself. I like big tires . The difference is 12 inch wheels with a 7 inch back space minitubbed . 10 inch wide wheel with a 5 inch back space with just the springs moved in. 8 inch wide with a 4 inch back space stock. Steve

You described this to me over the phone......but now the picture is clear. I like this idea for a street cruiser. Thanx Steve! :thumbup:

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Sorry to hi-jack thread but, Steve, what mod are you doing so you don't need to cut the hole in the frame? I've already flipped my front hangers and moved to opposite side of car to lower the stance. I'm using the Mopar offset kit so when you flip the bracket and move to the other side of the car the welded nut stays to the inside (against the frame rail).

Cut the nut off and weld it to the other side. Now you have to stick the bolt through the frame rail.. There is already a hole next to the hanger. Drill a larger hole in the inside of the rail so a washer plus the head of the bolt goes through.. You do not have to enlarge the hole next to the hanger. The bolt will pull it up against the frame rail . Pull the hanger against the rail tighten the front bolts. Now remove the large bolt. This allows the spring to be installed after the the hanger is in place. This can be done with any hanger just weld a nut on opposite of the rail and move the hanger against the rail by changing the 4 stud locations. The head of the spring attacment/ big bolt ends up inside the rail. You can use the original bolts and nuts.

I don't know if you all noticed . but this car has a full exhaust with tips before and after the mini tub. with factory tip hangers. Steve

 

[68fsh]

Boy! This is great reading.I want to keep my stock fuel cell. All I've heard was that I have to run a fuel cell when mini tubbing my duster, in order to run my exhaust. By any chance, doe anyone out there have pictures of mini tubbing with stock fuel cell? any help is much appreciated. BTW, I want to run 15 x 10 wheels with 6.5 backspacing. thanks!

 

[72BBSwinger]

If you look close at the pic above you can see a narrowed stock tank to clear full exhaust. With a stock tank you can still do everything EXCEPT the full exhaust, you have to dump it ahead of the axle.

 

[snapetwo]

On my 73 dart, I think im gonna run a lynx rear end kit and a mini tub. I want some wider rear tires, but still want to be able to drive it on the street. I am a little worried about exaust though, do i have room? I will be replacing the fuuel tank to a fuel cell (like the way it looks), plus I need it for the hemi...has to be high pressure and return fuel.

 

[limegreen70]

Has Anyone Done a Mini Tub with the Fold down rear Saet in a Duster/Dart sport?

 

[cuda20]

We mini tubbed my brothers 76 Dart sport. Narrowing the fold down piece was easy and the seat it self fit like a glove. I'll try to get some pictures and post them later today.

 

[famous bob]

Cut the nut off and weld it to the other side. Now you have to stick the bolt through the frame rail.. There is already a hole next to the hanger. Drill a larger hole in the inside of the rail so a washer plus the head of the bolt goes through.. You do not have to enlarge the hole next to the hanger. The bolt will pull it up against the frame rail . Pull the hanger against the rail tighten the front bolts. Now remove the large bolt. This allows the spring to be installed after the the hanger is in place. This can be done with any hanger just weld a nut on opposite of the rail and move the hanger against the rail by changing the 4 stud locations. The head of the spring attacment/ big bolt ends up inside the rail. You can use the original bolts and nuts.

I don't know if you all noticed . but this car has a full exhaust with tips before and after the mini tub. with factory tip hangers. Steve

a guy can elongate the hole in the frame a little, and knock the bolts out of the front spring hangar to get it in, then pull the bolts back up (in), when you tighten them. saves drilling the other side to reverse the bolt----easier ! if ur using "real" 3/4" offset spring hangars.

 

[dgracing]

a guy can elongate the hole in the frame a little, and knock the bolts out of the front spring hangar to get it in, then pull the bolts back up (in), when you tighten them. saves drilling the other side to reverse the bolt----easier ! if ur using "real" 3/4" offset spring hangars.

who makes a real 3/4 offset spring hangers ?

 

[AJ/FormS]

a guy can elongate the hole in the frame a little, and knock the bolts out of the front spring hangar to get it in, then pull the bolts back up (in), when you tighten them. saves drilling the other side to reverse the bolt----easier ! if ur using "real" 3/4" offset spring hangars.

That's what I did, plus I massaged the lead in a bit.