Starting 340 Build w/ Supercharger

-

Zachary

Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2016
Messages
24
Reaction score
1
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
Hey Everyone,

I should be having some money coming up to start the build I want to do for my 74 Duster. It currently has 1970 340 with a .030 overbore in her. I want to do a 416 stroker kit, EFI since carbs and I don't get along too well, and a roots supercharger. Now, I've never done extensive engine work like this dream would require. However, I want to do as much as the work as I can by myself (I'm a quick learner). I'm looking for advice, recommended parts I should be looking at, what sort of work I should be expecting, etc. I want the Duster to be streetable on pump gas, but also able to hit the strip if I ever feel like it. I have prior experience with Turbo systems, but not so much with Superchargers. Any help anyone can provide would be awesome. Thank you.
 
Hey Zachary,

I am going to assume you want to spend as little money as possible and still get a stout reliable engine. I'm not sure a stroker kit is necessary but if you get one get an all forged steel setup with H-beam rods and maybe a heavier piston than you would want in a N/A setup. As far as EFI goes, I am planning on going the FiTech route. Spend some money on a quality cam. I got mine from Steve Morris Racing and am happy with it. The typical machine work should be done on the block and heads to make sure everything is true and working properly. I picked up my blower, a 6-71 as a used piece off of a drag boat off of Racing Junk. com for a lot less than a new one would cost. With a 416 you may want to go with a 8-71 and under drive it to help keep the A/F charge cooler. These are just general tips, for more exact ideas more info is needed about your car.

Jack
 
Zachary
A supercharged 416 is a great dream, but I wonder if it's practical.
As a street car you have two problems; traction and speed limits.

A 416 with a roots will just annihilate the tires and then it's over.
A 416 will just annihilate the tires and then its over.
A roots on anything will mostly just annihilate the tires and then it's over.
You seeing a pattern here?
Doubling your speed requires 4times the power. That's why fast times need big power.(Fast like 120mph) Harnessing big power on the street is called personal restraint,AKA not flooring it. Where is the fun in that?

A supercharged 416 is great dream, but;
but; a bracket 340engine is killer too.
but; you could build a hot 318 and floor it and still annihilate the tires to 60, no super required.
but; an Eddie headed 11/1-SBM is a kickass NA engine for streetwork. Make it a 360 and a100shot, and you got the track covered too.
but; a turboed teener will do all you ask and has the potential to make great hiway mileage too.
but; mostly, your street-Duster is gonna be traction challenged.

I know you didn't ask my opinion on this kindof thing, but I'm gonna offer it any way;
For fast ET, zero to 60,
you will want to be revved out at 60/65 mph at the top of second.Lets say you really want the 416. Well then, let's use the A500, with ratios of 2.74-1.54-1.00. And let's use a small cam, cuz, well the 416 is not gonna need to rev much to motorvate the Duster. So lets say it peaks at 5200 That would be maybe a 262ish cam.
Ok then 65mph will be about 5400 with 4.10s in second.And 30mph will be about 4400 in first. Yeah she's gonna jump alright. The starter gear will be 2.74 x 4.10 =11.23, so you could probably use the factory TC. And the cruiser would be 4.1 x.68=2.79,so 65=2285 with zero slip. Perfect. Perfect and perfect.
Except traction is still gonna be an issue.
You might as well just use the factory 340, then you can floor it,lol.

Alternatively, you could use the A904 and 4.30s,but that's gonna destroy hiway useage.
Or you could gear it to hit 60 at the top of first and put a screamer cam in it. The math points to 3.23s and the 2.45 low, to hit 6700@65 with 27s, and 5% slip. So a 5700 peak it is and that would be a cam something like a 284 in a 360, or a 292 cam in a 340,or a 300 in a 318. Yeah so then we're looking at TCs now, to cover the bottom-end hole................. For me,in a streeter,those are too much cam. But if you could make that stick,With the right TC, the zero to 60 would be insanely quick, with any of them.
And we haven't even talked manual transmissions yet, which have dynomite ratios.
Nor is the Super on there yet.

To be fair; what will you run with a 416-Supercharged? You were probably thinking of a cam around 225/230@.050,to keep the torque up at low rpm, and let the super take care of the rest. And you were probably thinking of running a 727 and 3.55s right? Well the starter gear is 8.7, so a small TC will get you rolling pretty nice with a 225 cam; say a 2400 to 2800. Now that small cam would normally powerpeak at about 5200NA with a 360, so let's call it 5000 in the 416. So then 60mph will be 6800 in first, or 4000 in second. Neither is optimal but the Super will get you there reasonably briskly,using second.And you'll be cruising home at 65=2867rpm. However,you will have to beware of the guy with a hot 360, and traction, and a don't race a 367/4-speeder with 4.10s.
Why would that be?
Well, he's optimized. His starter is 10.91 and he has any "stall" he wants. He has dial-a-power.And he can adjust it while applying up to full power. And his second is road-ratio of 7.83 so 65= 6350, and he's running a cam/heads that peak at 5800. So he's putting down a lot of average power; a lot. Probably enough to show you taillights. Maybe he has a GVOD,and is splitting it, running 3.23s and a 3.09 low. He'll be hitting 60@5800,and his starter is 9.98. And he'll be cruising home at 65=2035rpm. Watch out for that guy,if he ever finds traction,lol.

The point is this; for a streeter,it's all about hitting the marks with gearing,and having traction; any NA SBM can be fun; Supercharging not required. IMO supercharging a 416-streeter is waaaayoverkill.
The ratio of dollars spent to fun-factor is 2 or 3 times more than what it needs to be.And that's before you factor in parts attrition.
But it's a really great dream.

I have a memory of a 1970 Swinger340 I had in high-school,back in 70/71/72. While all my buddies were slamming money into go-fast stuff. I figured a 340 that could spin the tires thru 3 gears, didn't need more power. So I worked on that. In the end my stock-engine dart only went 14.4@98 in the qtr, but I was the guy to beat,on-the-street. They'd be getting their heads done and camming it and doing all the bolt-ons and then it's off to race AJ. And they always lost. For nearly three years they never figured it out. One guy tracked his Demon at 115 (hesaid; same day I hit 98). I was a little intimidated by that, but on the street he lost anyway. On the street it's not about absolute-power exactly. It's all about hitting the marks and having traction, and lotsa average power.
Average power just means getting the Rs up as quick as possible, and then keeping it on the pipe, for as long as possible. The starter gear gets you there. The optimized second gear keeps you there.And if you're heading to the track, the next gear or two also need to be looked at, and/or matched to the powerband.A streeter can be set up pretty good for the 1/8th, but she'll want a different set-up for the qtr. And if you optimize for the qtr, she won't make a very good streeter.
Yeah I know, a nuther novella by AJ.............................
 
Last edited:
listen to him^

I like a high winding small block with a manual trans baby!!!
I did the 292/108 thing in my 11.3Scr-367 for a summer, and it was dynomite from 5400 to 7000. In the end tho, that cam suffered in the lower Rs where I spent most of my time, and the 367 was not strong enough down there with 3.55s. I tried several different chunks I had laying around, but in the end had to buy some 4.30s. And that led to experiments with the 833od, which kept popping od gears.And that led to the GVOD. And more experimentation, and eventually,I deemed that 292 as just plain too much, and swapped it out for a 270/276/110 . And back in went the 3.91s.
But the engine was still set up for 7200, and it still regularly went there.I did drop the Scr down to 10.9 tho. In the end, the bottom-end picked up real nice, while the top,where I didn't much go, lost a bit of oomph. It woudla bin a good candidate for a Super.
But that cam died in the 4th year, and so I solved both problems with a 276/286/110,for the top, and the 3.09/direct 4th box with the 3.55s swapped back in, for the bottom. She's been like that now since 2004. I guess she'll be staying that way now. 93 in the 1/8 is fast enough for me.

But I'll tell you, if you've never heard a SBM hitting 7200 for 6 or 7 seconds in a row,screaming thru dual 3" pipes, man you missed something like pure heaven
 
Last edited:
Zachary
A supercharged 416 is a great dream, but I wonder if it's practical.
As a street car you have two problems; traction and speed limits.

A 416 with a roots will just annihilate the tires and then it's over.
A 416 will just annihilate the tires and then its over.
A roots on anything will mostly just annihilate the tires and then it's over.
You seeing a pattern here?
Doubling your speed requires 4times the power. That's why fast times need big power.(Fast like 120mph) Harnessing big power on the street is called personal restraint,AKA not flooring it. Where is the fun in that?

A supercharged 416 is great dream, but;
but; a bracket 340engine is killer too.
but; you could build a hot 318 and floor it and still annihilate the tires to 60, no super required.
but; an Eddie headed 11/1-SBM is a kickass NA engine for streetwork. Make it a 360 and a100shot, and you got the track covered too.
but; a turboed teener will do all you ask and has the potential to make great hiway mileage too.
but; mostly, your street-Duster is gonna be traction challenged.

I know you didn't ask my opinion on this kindof thing, but I'm gonna offer it any way;
For fast ET, zero to 60,
you will want to be revved out at 60/65 mph at the top of second.Lets say you really want the 416. Well then, let's use the A500, with ratios of 2.74-1.54-1.00. And let's use a small cam, cuz, well the 416 is not gonna need to rev much to motorvate the Duster. So lets say it peaks at 5200 That would be maybe a 262ish cam.
Ok then 65mph will be about 5400 with 4.10s in second.And 30mph will be about 4400 in first. Yeah she's gonna jump alright. The starter gear will be 2.74 x 4.10 =11.23, so you could probably use the factory TC. And the cruiser would be 4.1 x.68=2.79,so 65=2285 with zero slip. Perfect. Perfect and perfect.
Except traction is still gonna be an issue.
You might as well just use the factory 340, then you can floor it,lol.

Alternatively, you could use the A904 and 4.30s,but that's gonna destroy hiway useage.
Or you could gear it to hit 60 at the top of first and put a screamer cam in it. The math points to 3.23s and the 2.45 low, to hit 6700@65 with 27s, and 5% slip. So a 5700 peak it is and that would be a cam something like a 284 in a 360, or a 292 cam in a 340,or a 300 in a 318. Yeah so then we're looking at TCs now, to cover the bottom-end hole................. For me,in a streeter,those are too much cam. But if you could make that stick,With the right TC, the zero to 60 would be insanely quick, with any of them.
And we haven't even talked manual transmissions yet, which have dynomite ratios.
Nor is the Super on there yet.

To be fair; what will you run with a 416-Supercharged? You were probably thinking of a cam around 225/230@.050,to keep the torque up at low rpm, and let the super take care of the rest. And you were probably thinking of running a 727 and 3.55s right? Well the starter gear is 8.7, so a small TC will get you rolling pretty nice with a 225 cam; say a 2400 to 2800. Now that small cam would normally powerpeak at about 5200NA with a 360, so let's call it 5000 in the 416. So then 60mph will be 6800 in first, or 4000 in second. Neither is optimal but the Super will get you there reasonably briskly,using second.And you'll be cruising home at 65=2867rpm. However,you will have to beware of the guy with a hot 360, and traction, and a don't race a 367/4-speeder with 4.10s.
Why would that be?
Well, he's optimized. His starter is 10.91 and he has any "stall" he wants. He has dial-a-power.And he can adjust it while applying up to full power. And his second is road-ratio of 7.83 so 65= 6350, and he's running a cam/heads that peak at 5800. So he's putting down a lot of average power; a lot. Probably enough to show you taillights. Maybe he has a GVOD,and is splitting it, running 3.23s and a 3.09 low. He'll be hitting 60@5800,and his starter is 9.98. And he'll be cruising home at 65=2035rpm. Watch out for that guy,if he ever finds traction,lol.

The point is this; for a streeter,it's all about hitting the marks with gearing,and having traction; any NA SBM can be fun; Supercharging not required. IMO supercharging a 416-streeter is waaaayoverkill.
The ratio of dollars spent to fun-factor is 2 or 3 times more than what it needs to be.And that's before you factor in parts attrition.
But it's a really great dream.

I have a memory of a 1970 Swinger340 I had in high-school,back in 70/71/72. While all my buddies were slamming money into go-fast stuff. I figured a 340 that could spin the tires thru 3 gears, didn't need more power. So I worked on that. In the end my stock-engine dart only went 14.4@98 in the qtr, but I was the guy to beat,on-the-street. They'd be getting their heads done and camming it and doing all the bolt-ons and then it's off to race AJ. And they always lost. For nearly three years they never figured it out. One guy tracked his Demon at 115 (hesaid; same day I hit 98). I was a little intimidated by that, but on the street he lost anyway. On the street it's not about absolute-power exactly. It's all about hitting the marks and having traction, and lotsa average power.
Average power just means getting the Rs up as quick as possible, and then keeping it on the pipe, for as long as possible. The starter gear gets you there. The optimized second gear keeps you there.And if you're heading to the track, the next gear or two also need to be looked at, and/or matched to the powerband.A streeter can be set up pretty good for the 1/8th, but she'll want a different set-up for the qtr. And if you optimize for the qtr, she won't make a very good streeter.
Yeah I know, a nuther novella by AJ.............................



Thanks for the very detailed reply AJ. From what I was able to gather from this, I should either stroke it, or supercharge it, but not both? I'm more concerned with keeping it a streeter. The track would be cool to go to every now and then, but not entirely necessary. The reason I want a roots is because I've always wanted a classic muscle with a blower coming out of the hood since I was a little kid. So can I just supercharge the block as is?

The block is stock except the .030 overbore. If I don't do the stroker, I at least want to tear down the engine and do a complete rebuild, to make her fresh. Currently, i have the 727 with a slap-shifter, and 3.93 gears. I don't believe it has posi and there are no cal-tracks or anything of the sort.
 
Hey Zachary,

I am going to assume you want to spend as little money as possible and still get a stout reliable engine. I'm not sure a stroker kit is necessary but if you get one get an all forged steel setup with H-beam rods and maybe a heavier piston than you would want in a N/A setup. As far as EFI goes, I am planning on going the FiTech route. Spend some money on a quality cam. I got mine from Steve Morris Racing and am happy with it. The typical machine work should be done on the block and heads to make sure everything is true and working properly. I picked up my blower, a 6-71 as a used piece off of a drag boat off of Racing Junk. com for a lot less than a new one would cost. With a 416 you may want to go with a 8-71 and under drive it to help keep the A/F charge cooler. These are just general tips, for more exact ideas more info is needed about your car.

Jack

What other info do you need from me? I'll do my best to get the answer.
 
Sure you can blower that 340. If it means making your dream come true. But you're gonna need to spend some money on the chassis to get it to hook, cuz if it don't hook, you might be big-time disappointed. Cuz then it might as well be a teener.
If you just want a cool looking ride and don't care about pulling the front tires, then, yeah a blown 340 is really,really, cool. That 340 can be an instant 400 to 450 horsepower, and it won't need to rev very high. But that's at 100% throttle. A streeter probably spends most of it's life down at 30 to 50% throttle, so like 200hp is plenty enough to just tool around with, and have a pretty good time. And you can never use 100% for more than about 5 or 6 seconds, cuz then you're ripe to get a ticket. If you get too many of those up here, they take your driving privileges away. So the way I look at is like this; 200hp is barely enough. 450 is really too much. Up the middle is 325, and that's about standard for a factory original hi-compression 340 with headers. Make it a 360 with the same parts and add 20hp, so 350 is easy. Now the tires are a lot happier, and they last a lot longer, and you're not down every week with a busted this or that.
To help get traction; the usual recipe is; relocated SS springs,long drag shocks,a narrowed rear,at least 10 inches of radial per side,a lightened and loose front end, and frame connectors are always a good idea. Some guys are Ok with running around on city streets with this recipe. ..... But it ain't fun in the corners. In a small town, the streets are maybe 4 blocks long, so there's a lot of turning involved.And for every second I goose it, I need 2 or more to slow it down! Ao never forget about the shut-down area. Never!
It sounds like you've had a driver's license for quite a while, so I'm sure you've turned a corner a time or two,lol. And so, you probably already know what you like and what you don't. Personally, I like stuffing it into a turn hot and bringing it around with the gas-pedal. So you're not gonna be doing that with a loose front and a sky-jacked rear.
But if your style does not include wreckless behavior like mine,lol, then set it up as you wish.Just be aware that 450hp is incredibly powerful, and dangerous, and needs a lotta brakes to get her slowed after 7 seconds at 100%. Oh, and the brakes don't work if the tires aren't on the pavement, or when you're sliding sideways,lol.And if it looks like you're about to end up going backwards, clutch it man!
 
Last edited:
For what it is worth I sold my roots supercharged car this spring, yes its fun, but the hole in the hood is a complete PIA, every time you wash it, the motor gets wet.
Yes throttle response is great, but it also creates alot of unwanted attention from the police.
The next supercharged car I build will be an under hood paxton.
 
I agree with AJ as far as the traction part is concerned. On the street there is not much when a 6-71 is in the mix. You already answered most of the questions I had. You will probably need a new TC, one with an anti ballooning plate. The tranny should be something that will withstand some serious HP and TQ. As far as the rear is concerned I would think an 8 3/4 would work fine. I have 3.23 gears in mine and I like them. You make up for a lot of gear when you add the torque that a blower gives you and the 3.23's make it a joy on the highway. I would also stick with the 340 and not spend the extra on a stroker kit. The stock crank is great if it's forged. You can get an extra keyway cut in it if you want but it is not really needed unless you plan on going over 10 to 12 lbs of boost which will be hard to do on pump gas. I am a big proponent of H-beam rods and a heavy piston. The extra weight helps cushion the shock of the fuel explosion. That's my opinion, so take it for what its worth. I also run SS springs, frame connectors and 10 inch M/T radials. Where did I read that at. LOL I will repeat myself and say don't skimp on the cam. Mine has .565 lift, 255@.50 duration on a 113 centerline. I normally run 6 lbs of boost with 91 octane but can turn the wick up to 10 lbs when I change pulleys and turn on my meth injection. These are just some ideas from somebody running a 340 +.30, 8.2 CR and ported "X" heads with a 727 and 8 3/4. Hope this helps. I get stopped by the cops as well. Most of the time they just want to look at the car and talk. LOL

Jack
 
What pistons are you running.
 
I agree with AJ as far as the traction part is concerned. On the street there is not much when a 6-71 is in the mix. You already answered most of the questions I had. You will probably need a new TC, one with an anti ballooning plate. The tranny should be something that will withstand some serious HP and TQ. As far as the rear is concerned I would think an 8 3/4 would work fine. I have 3.23 gears in mine and I like them. You make up for a lot of gear when you add the torque that a blower gives you and the 3.23's make it a joy on the highway. I would also stick with the 340 and not spend the extra on a stroker kit. The stock crank is great if it's forged. You can get an extra keyway cut in it if you want but it is not really needed unless you plan on going over 10 to 12 lbs of boost which will be hard to do on pump gas. I am a big proponent of H-beam rods and a heavy piston. The extra weight helps cushion the shock of the fuel explosion. That's my opinion, so take it for what its worth. I also run SS springs, frame connectors, and 10 inch M/T radials. Where did I read that at. LOL I will repeat myself and say don't skimp on the cam. Mine has .565 lift, 255@.50 duration on a 113 centerline. I normally run 6 lbs of boost with 91 octane but can turn the wick up to 10 lbs when I change pulleys and turn on my meth injection. These are just some ideas from somebody running a 340 +.30, 8.2 CR and ported "X" heads with a 727 and 8 3/4. Hope this helps. I get stopped by the cops as well. Most of the time they just want to look at the car and talk. LOL

Jack

Okay, so out with the stroker kit. I'll probably stay at around 6-8 lbs of boost TBH. I do have an 8 3/4 rear, but with 3.93 gears. New forged pistons with H-Beam rods is doable. I was looking into changing out the leaf springs for a spring system, is this what you're talking about when you say SS springs? I may also do a roll cage to stiffen the chassis as well. Do you recommend any specific manufacturer for the cam you're talking about? Now, forgive my naive-ness, but when you TC, you're referring to a torque converter right? I want to do a manual swap, over to a TKO 600, so as far as I know, a TC wouldn't be necessary right?
 
For a streeter, I don't see a manual trans as an advantage. Typically you are limited at WOT to 1.5 gears. And the trip to 60 with 430 plus hp is really quick.
Take off will be the hard part; to co-ordinate the engines rpm with the clutch, to not overpower the tires. It will be all too easy to just light them up with a tiny bit too much throttle. IMO, getting the right TC will make for a more consistent,more enjoyable,launch.
I have never owned a blower, so cannot speak from experience. But I have seen some power curves. I would imagine that a 430 hp with a roots is more violent that 430 with a NA 360. The NA360 builds a long slow easy on the powertrain, curve.And its only 430 at the top of the curve and only for the space of maybe 300 or so on either side of the peak, before the curve decays,rapidly on the high side. And so finding an engagement point with the clutch, doesn't take a lot of work cuz the window is pretty wide.
Contrasting that with a curve from a blown engine, I see the power builds sooner and much more rapidly, and hangs on longer.And so your engagement window, when launching, might be a lil tricky. If you miss it and the engine is running away,well then your goose may be cooked, if the tires go up in smoke. If they don't,stuff usually breaks.
IMO, make it easy on yourself,go automatic.
And as to the 3.91s, those would be great for a NA application, where hi-way cruising is not required. But not so much for your application. I'd sell them if the blower is for sure.
Part of the appeal of the blower is the power curve.Lots of footpounds fairly early in the rpm band. This makes it unnecessary to have a lot of torque multiplication, cuz,well, you already have a lot of it. You'll probably end up thinking about ways to reduce the preponderance of torque,lol.

As an example, I run an A833 with a 3.09 low in it, and 3.55s. This makes a starter gear of 10.97. So, when I take off, if I dump it at 200 ftlbs, these are multiplied to 2194. This immediately breaks traction, and I control the wheelspin with the throttle after that. But if I slip it out at 150, being nice, then I'm just taking off briskly with 1645. If I blip the throttle and dump it, and let the flywheel do it's thing, then maybe she's at 1200ftlbs.So what I'm saying is that at lower rpms the power delivery is rather linear, predictable, and repeatable.My engagement window is from idle to maybe 3600 typically. The power with my 230* cam doesn't really wake up until over 4000. That is to say the climb is a little steeper after 4000.
Now try that with a roots. Firstly, with 8.5ish compression and a bit less stroke, the dump it and go thing is probably not gonna work for you.So you're gonna have to slip it out.But you're gonna need a few more Rs to get moving until the boost begins. But the boost will make the power curve climb faster than in NA mode. So you're gonna have to find a window that works for you. Probably somewhere between 2000 and 2800, guessing. And you'll want to be in that window somewhere, every time you take off. So in that case.....you might as well get an automatic with the appropriate stall TC (convertor). Then you can control the severity of the acceleration with the throttle,lol, and not have to concentrate on clutching.
Automatic kickdown is a blast too.
And for you, I suppose the overdrives are on the table too. Altho maybe not as useful a tool to you, as a smaller NA engine.
In your case, starting with a 318say and running an overdrive, would allow you the luxury of those 3.91s, and then a touch more boost. This would make your take off when normally aspirated (like 95% of the time) similar to the 340, maybe even better, yet the absolute power could be cranked to the same level. Then,on the hiway the .68 od would bring your Rs down to something like 65=2150, and now you're enjoying 318 mpgs, instead of crying the 340-sux-gas blues,lol. And the best part about this is 318s come standard with a blower-friendly compression ratio.
Anyway, like I said, I have no experience with blowers, so hang around and wait for the experienced guys to show up.
 
Okay, so out with the stroker kit. I'll probably stay at around 6-8 lbs of boost TBH. I do have an 8 3/4 rear, but with 3.93 gears. New forged pistons with H-Beam rods is doable. I was looking into changing out the leaf springs for a spring system, is this what you're talking about when you say SS springs? I may also do a roll cage to stiffen the chassis as well. Do you recommend any specific manufacturer for the cam you're talking about? Now, forgive my naive-ness, but when you TC, you're referring to a torque converter right? I want to do a manual swap, over to a TKO 600, so as far as I know, a TC wouldn't be necessary right?

Okay, SS springs mean Super Stock leaf springs. On a Duster/Demon you would want the 002 and 003 springs. You will know that means when you research them. Mancini Racing sells them. The roll cage may or may not be a good idea depending on your level to put up with discomfort. On a street car a cage is a pita because you get in and out so much. On a race car it is a must. I don't say one manufacturer is better than any other but who specs the cam could make a difference. I went with Steve Morris Racing to spec and order my cam because they specialize in boosted engines. Cost a little more but worth it. Correct on the TC meaning converter. The thing you have to remember with a roots blown engine is the torque is there instantly. You put your foot into it and the acceleration is instantaneous, there is no waiting for boost to build. Take that into account when you choose your tranny system. As far as mileage goes, most people that build a blower engine are not to worried about it but for comparison purposes, when I am just cruising the highway at 65 mph I get 14 mpg. Tires are 275/60/15's and 3.23 gears with the stock gears in the 727 tranny I have. That is with twin 600 holley dbl pumpers on top of the 6-71.

Jack
 
Obviously there's more to a package than making the power. There are other key factors that come into play as mentioned. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't build what you are envisioning. I've found that a lot of people telling you why you shouldn't do something are in fact the same people that wish they had the means to build the exact same thing you want, but are unable to do so. I say go for it, and build exactly what you want. Just keep in mind that there are other variables involved with getting a combination like that to work nicely on the street... But it can be done, trust me. If I can get a Procharged 496" raised deck to dead hook on the street, you can get a roots blown 416" small block to do the same. And you'll have a blast doing it! ;)
 
Obviously there's more to a package than making the power. There are other key factors that come into play as mentioned. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't build what you are envisioning. I've found that a lot of people telling you why you shouldn't do something are in fact the same people that wish they had the means to build the exact same thing you want, but are unable to do so. I say go for it, and build exactly what you want. Just keep in mind that there are other variables involved with getting a combination like that to work nicely on the street... But it can be done, trust me. If I can get a Procharged 496" raised deck to dead hook on the street, you can get a roots blown 416" small block to do the same. And you'll have a blast doing it! ;)
Ok you got my attention; What's your secret for street hooking?
I have: Starter gears of 10.97,or13.29 ,or15.08 (3.55,4.30/4.88s and a 3.09 first gear), a CFII clutch, and up to at least 400hp/420ftlbs/crank. I have a GVOD,wired as a splitter, so I can carry that peak power out to about 40/45 mph. When the GV shifts, I only lose about 1200/1300 rpm.My 325/50-15DRs are about 27.This on a 3600# 68 Barracuda. Car currently goes 93 in the 1/8 @3467 pounds.According to the Wallace, that's 433hp
I'd like to keep my 1.03 T-bars, HD shocks, and soft rear springs, and nose heavy front; I think it's 45% rear bias. I'm willing to run any rear gear.
I'm looking to pull the front wheels, more than just daylight.

Common,spill the beans, pretty-pleeeeeease,

1/8th Mile ET-MPH-HP Calculator

Following is an engine very similar to mine;
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/TechArticles/land_dyno.jpg
 
Last edited:
I agree with nitrojunkee. Build what you invision and tune it to meet your goals. People were always chiming in on my build when I wasn't asking. 408 sroker with a Paxton Novi2000 and manual valve body and not looking back.
 
-
Back
Top