Swapping fuel tank

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moparmandan

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I have decided to swap out my tank. 1973 Scamp. To much sediment. Standard 1 vent style. Sending unit with return. Spectre CR11E or equivalent. Got any tips?

And why the difference in price? Seen everything from $75 to $288 for just the tank.

What else should I order? Seals, etc?
 
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Check where made...that’s your major cost difference. More than likely at any of those prices your looking at China as the mfg.. I bought my from Tanks inc. (China) and have had an issue with the shock almost touching the pinchweld. So I rolled it up just a bit to be safe, my tank is a retrofit as I am running fuel injection. Other than the pinch being a little to wide no other fitment issues and good quality for the cost. I think I paid about 250 without the shipping but if you going original you can get it for about 150 plus shipping unless you can get it on eBay and sometimes they ship for free!

Hope this helps!
 
I will concur with above statement I too have a Tanks Inc for fuel injection, and that to bend the flange up some to clear the shocks, but the quality of the tank is very good and have had no issues.
I think that most tanks are made overseas now days.
 
Did you guys paint your tank ? if so with what ?

Hi-jacker alert!
Here's how it works, pal.
So now when I get an alert that someone has answered my question about swapping gas tanks I don't know if it's for me about swapping, or for you about painting.

Thank's bud..................
 
You'll most likely need a new tank pad. You can buy them online and there's also a user here that makes them. I forget who, I bought one from him and it seems to work well.

New grommet. Some don't fit right so be careful. Here's the one I purchased and it fit and works very well:
1967 - 1976 A Body MOPAR FUEL Grommet Gas Tank Seal CORRECT FIT New | eBay

Save your OEM lock ring, the one that comes with the new may or may not fit

Before you put the tank in the car install the sending unit. Look through the filler neck hole with a flashlight and make sure the pickup tube reaches all the way to the bottom of the tank. I'd also pour a gallon of something in there to check for leaks at the sending unit.

You may want to replace the straps at this time. Spectra makes those also

Check the J bolts and nuts of them for rust. You may want to start soaking those in penetrating lube days before you remove the tank.
 
Hi-jacker alert!
Here's how it works, pal.
So now when I get an alert that someone has answered my question about swapping gas tanks I don't know if it's for me about swapping, or for you about painting.

Thank's bud..................

Sorry for my reply about the painting...I just answered not realizing it wasn’t from you!
 
Sorry, didn't mean to change the subject, but since I am in the same market for a tank, I thought it was a relevant question, next time I will start an identical thread so you guys can answer the same questions twice. By the way he did ask for tips, DUH.
 
Sorry, didn't mean to change the subject, but since I am in the same market for a tank, I thought it was a relevant question, next time I will start an identical thread so you guys can answer the same questions twice. By the way he did ask for tips, DUH.

Tips for SWAPPING a tank, duh.

And that's not identical to painting a tank!

"next time I will start" There ya go, now ya got it! Thank-you, sir!
 
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You'll most likely need a new tank pad. You can buy them online and there's also a user here that makes them. I forget who, I bought one from him and it seems to work well.

New grommet. Some don't fit right so be careful. Here's the one I purchased and it fit and works very well:
1967 - 1976 A Body MOPAR FUEL Grommet Gas Tank Seal CORRECT FIT New | eBay

Save your OEM lock ring, the one that comes with the new may or may not fit

Before you put the tank in the car install the sending unit. Look through the filler neck hole with a flashlight and make sure the pickup tube reaches all the way to the bottom of the tank. I'd also pour a gallon of something in there to check for leaks at the sending unit.

You may want to replace the straps at this time. Spectra makes those also

Check the J bolts and nuts of them for rust. You may want to start soaking those in penetrating lube days before you remove the tank.

1. Tank. Ordered. Check
2. Sender. Ordered. Check
3. Grommet. Ordered. Check
4. Pad. Ordered. Check
5. Straps will inspect
6. PB Blaster on nuts tonight (fuel tank)

Anything else?
 
1. Tank. Ordered. Check
2. Sender. Ordered. Check
3. Grommet. Ordered. Check
4. Pad. Ordered. Check
5. Straps will inspect
6. PB Blaster on nuts tonight (fuel tank)

Anything else?

I was able to reuse my straps just did a blast on them along with the jbolts used VHT primer and Black chassis paint.

Just make sure you do a test EMPTY fit to make sure there’s no clearance issues!

Double check your grounding also for the sender!!

Other than that pretty straight forward switch out.
 
1. Tank. Ordered. Check
2. Sender. Ordered. Check
3. Grommet. Ordered. Check
4. Pad. Ordered. Check
5. Straps will inspect
6. PB Blaster on nuts tonight (fuel tank)

Anything else?
Why did you order a sending unit? Is the existing one in your tank in rough shape? Is it the OEM one?
 
Why did you order a sending unit? Is the existing one in your tank in rough shape? Is it the OEM one?
Yep. 45 years Young. Fuel gauge not working either. Just want to freshen it all up.
 
Yep. 45 years Young. Fuel gauge not working either. Just want to freshen it all up.
You might want to search for "aftermarket sending unit" on this forum and do some reading. The short version is all aftermarket sending units are linear. Your gauge won't read correctly. In order for it to work correctly you'll need to add something like the "Meter Match" device (search for that as well).

I've seen old sending units that weren't that bad. 2 common cases of a fuel gauge not working is lack of a grounding strap at the sending unit, or the brass float has a hole and is full of gas. You can replace the brass float with a plastic one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AOM17I/?tag=2402507-20

You can also buy strainers new:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ES5N5U/?tag=2402507-20

Another option is to send the sending unit in for repair/refurbishment. Several places offer this service. They might even have one on the shelf they can swap-out with you:
Fuel tank sending unit rebuild service
Fuel Senders
Home
Rebuilt Fuel Sending Unit Specialist
 
You might want to search for "aftermarket sending unit" on this forum and do some reading. The short version is all aftermarket sending units are linear. Your gauge won't read correctly. In order for it to work correctly you'll need to add something like the "Meter Match" device (search for that as well).

I've seen old sending units that weren't that bad. 2 common cases of a fuel gauge not working is lack of a grounding strap at the sending unit, or the brass float has a hole and is full of gas. You can replace the brass float with a plastic one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AOM17I/?tag=2402507-20

You can also buy strainers new:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ES5N5U/?tag=2402507-20

Another option is to send the sending unit in for repair/refurbishment. Several places offer this service. They might even have one on the shelf they can swap-out with you:
Fuel tank sending unit rebuild service
Fuel Senders
Home
Rebuilt Fuel Sending Unit Specialist
Thanks for the reply. I'll definitely check out and look into refurbing the old one before I throw it in the s*** can. Scaning real quick through the forums today I saw the issues with the aftermarket units not reading correctly. I'll watch out for that if I go that route. Thanks again.
 
Looks like I'm a bit late for this party, but I put a CR11E in my 73 Duster and it fit perfectly. Agree with keeping the old lock ring.

I also replaced that big flat rubber thing "grommet" that plugs the floor of the trunk around the filler neck, but I'm anal like that.
 
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