T-56 Transmission Install Thread

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$2500 is way too much, if a used trans isn't AT LEAST $1000 cheaper than a new one, or half price, there isn't any point in buying used IMO. I looked for mine for almost a year before I found a deal I liked, and then pounced on it before anyone else could.
 
72BBSwinger said:
$2500 is way too much, if a used trans isn't AT LEAST $1000 cheaper than a new one, or half price, there isn't any point in buying used IMO. I looked for mine for almost a year before I found a deal I liked, and then pounced on it before anyone else could.
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That's what I was thinking. I guess I'll keep hunting the classifieds and hope something turns up. Heck, I could probably get a high mileage camaro for the price they want just for a trans.
 
I wanted to add a part number for a neutral safety switch Borg Warner # S9264 you can purchase for about $30.
Just made a bracket and added 2 wire connector.
I priced the factory ones and they are $150-$270 for a rebuilt one.
 

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I was thinking of using a Dodge Neon one. There nice and small and you can cut off the factory bracket from the pedals.

Riddler
 
Took a pic of some life with a T-56 in an A-body today. Gotta button a few things up with the car still but otherwise I wouldn't hesitate to drive it coast to coast.

Also found that the factory temp sender is reading 187* on the MS3 right here, for whatever reason the Speedhut temp gauge reads about 15* high.
 
For anyone that has made the throwout bearing spacer or has a throwout bearing loose they could measure, any chance I could get some dimensions? I'd really like to get one cut out and have it ready before I pull the trans. That way I can pull the trans, install the spacer, and put it right back in as opposed to having to pull everything out, measure it, get a spacer made, and put it back in with a few days thrown in the middle for good measure. I'll be doing this in a driveway, so the closest I can get it to a one day/weekend job the better. 72BBSwinger posted a good picture of his spacer. If I could get a diameter for the whole thing as well as the bolt holes and center hole and the spacing between the mounting holes I'd really appreciate it. Have a source with material that can make it, just need a drawing.

Edit: Okay, I feel a little silly now. I swear the last time I read the post the dimensions weren't listed, but I just re-read it and found most of the info I need. The main thing I'm missing is the throwout bearing mounting bolt hole size and locations. The diameter for the blank and input shaft hole were on the post I was just reading.
 
Yes, you can use the TOB as a template for the holes, just set it ontop of the spacer, mark the holes and drill.
 
72BBSwinger said:
Also found that the factory temp sender is reading 187* on the MS3 right here, for whatever reason the Speedhut temp gauge reads about 15* high.
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Interesting, I have the same issue with my Speedhut temp gauge.
With the stock thermostat computer shows 205 and gauge shows 220+
 
boden said:
Interesting, I have the same issue with my Speedhut temp gauge.
With the stock thermostat computer shows 205 and gauge shows 220+
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i noticed speed hut recommends using the sender as a ground for the gauge. you might want to try that out.

http://www.speedhut.com/faq.i#tempe...correctly-with-single-wire-temperature-sender.

link dosnt work right. so section 10

Speedhut line temperature gauges have a single yellow wire running from gauge to sender. For the sender and gauge to operate correctly, the sender must be threaded into something that is grounded to same grounding source as the Temperature Gauge. The ground path for the sender is the sender's mounting threads. Use teflon paste on the sender threads to make a good seal while maintaining a good ground connection. Do NOT use teflon tape (Teflon tape will not provide a good grounding connection)!
If you are having any additional issues with your Speedhut line Temp gauge or its sender please contact customer support.
 
So I just installed a throwout bearing spacer this weekend and still have trouble getting the car into gear when it gets hot. The spacer definitely gave me better clutch release and makes getting between gears a little smoother, but after driving around for a while I still can't get it into gear at stop lights. When I checked the fluid last time as well it was black. Not amber, black. I'm trying a heat sleeve next as that seems like it makes the most sense for what appears to be happening (heat soak), but the symptoms seem a little backwards. I'd think if it was getting hot it would pressurize the system from expansion and cause the clutch to slip, but it's doing the opposite for me. The line isn't around anything hot either, so I'm really not sure where the temp would be coming from, but can't think of anything else to try.
 
Map63Vette said:
The line isn't around anything hot either, so I'm really not sure where the temp would be coming from, but can't think of anything else to try.
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Could be that the spacing is still off and the release bearing is riding on the clutch, which would cause it to heat up...
 
Maybe change the fluid to Motul RBF600, that's what the Viper guys use at the track IIRC.
 
72BBSwinger said:
Maybe change the fluid to Motul RBF600, that's what the Viper guys use at the track IIRC.
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That was also part of my plan, going to a different fluid. I thought I put DOT4 in it when I bled it last before the spacer to see if that was the problem, but it may have still been DOT3. Either way I'll probably try to find a higher temp fluid.
 
Okay, new heat sleeve and fluid installed, but in the process of breaking open the line between the master and slave to install the sleeve I have a bleeding problem. Cracked the bleeder at the slave last night and let it gravity bleed for a while, but still can't get it into gear. Anyone have any bleeding tips to try? I ended up draining the master when I pulled the line, so I'm thinking maybe I need to try to bleed it better and will try that today, but open to other suggestions as well if someone has found a good method.
 
They can be weird, if someone holds the pedal down while you crack the bleeder, in some cases the pedal will be dead for a couple pumps afterwards. I usually pump it about 20 times then let someone hold it down and crack bleeder. I have also gravity bled only and had it be fine. Make sure your pedal travel has some free play with pedal up or it wont get out the trapped air because its not using all the available stroke.
 
Okay, messed with it a bunch yesterday after work and it's hit and miss. Tried the pump and crack method and was pretty much getting a steady stream of fluid, but still tough to get into gear. I have a little over an inch of pretty free travel on the pedal right now, so I'm pretty sure I'm getting full master cylinder stroke. I figured I'll drive it around a bit and see if I can shake it up and work all the air to one spot and try bleeding it again.

I think the master was part of my initial problem. It has a bleeder on it as well and I routed a short hose from there back around into the reservoir and got quite a bit of air out with a few pumps. I've had a friend suggest "reverse filling" the system by just pumping fluid in through the bleeder on the slave so that it forces everything to the master, but I don't have a good method to do that right now. Limited access for getting hoses in and no pressure system at the moment.
 
Seems weird that it shifts ok but doesn't like 1st? Doesn't like ANY gear while stopped?
 
This is very similar to a clutch adjustment problem. It sounds like you have it about right in your last post, so hopefully it will be better. Also, if you try other fluids, look at DOT 5.1. You can get it at motorcycle shops. If it is still not right, try bleeding the master again to see if more air comes out. Obviously you can't have any air in there for it to function correctly. And if you keep getting air in the MC, then replacing it may be needed.
 
Okay, stuck the boroscope in there again just now and took and look and something seems odd. Previously, there was a gap between the fingers and the bearing at rest that showed up as free play in the pedal. I bled the crap out of the thing last night and took the whole master apart and cleaned it out to make sure there wasn't something funny up there. Looking in the bellhousing again it appears there is still a gap between the fingers and the pressure plate, so I'm thinking that means I need an even thicker spacer. I'm guessing at least another 1/4" to take up the free play and gap that is still there. What bugs me is it looks like this gap is about the same as it was before I put the first spacer in, so it just doesn't sit right with me. Does 3/4" sound weird? 72BB, I think you had a dual disk clutch setup right? Is the thickness on that significantly different than a single disk?
 
No it isn't, im using the same spacer as the old BB with single disc. It is a little tighter now than before but only like .050". Im thinking your slave has an issue with the spring because the TOB rides on the fingers all the time. It shouldn't have a gap at rest.
 
I'll check the fingers on my plate when I take the trans out again, but it certainly seems like the slave isn't "self adjusting" like I would expect it to. I'd think it would stay pushed out unless there is something pushing back on it like a pressure plate. I suppose one of my fingers could be high and pushing it back so it looks like a gap on a different finger, but that seems unlikely. Everything was bone dry inside the bellhousing when I took it apart though, so I'm not really sure how the slave could be bad to do something like this. I'd think I'd be spitting fluid somewhere if the slave was bad.
 
With the spring or something internally hanging up I see no cause for a leak. Im not saying there is a leak, probably is no leak, but something is making it have a gap and that is limiting your travel and also could be holding air somehow.
 
It looks like it has a pretty smooth travel when the pedal is pushed. I had the scope in there while my dad pushed the pedal and it pretty much moved at the same rate as the pedal, no weird inconsistent travel where air might be compressing or anything like that, it's just not enough movement to release the clutch plate because 1-2 inches of pedal travel is being used up just to bring the throwout in contact with the pressure plate fingers. It seems like the only way it could be getting pulled back like that is if the master is somehow sucking it back.
 
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