The "Black Menace" is pretty forlorn, LOL

Discussion in 'Members Restorations' started by 67Dart273, Nov 1, 2013.

  1. Abodybomber

    Abodybomber Pushing Mopars since 1991

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    Relax for a moment,Del....
     
  2. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    Question..........anybody ever weld the two seams between the quarters and trunk / rear window?

    I think one of these is what was leaking, and what with the blaster having removed some of the seal, "we" were contemplating just welding and filling them?
     
  3. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Just another dumbass. FABO Gold Member Technical Editor

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    Are you talking about the sail panel seam?
     
  4. tqfastfish

    tqfastfish "let the big fish eat"

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    looking nice, Overall it does not look all that bad... other then the rocker. keep it going!
     
  5. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    Ya got me. The two seams up flat on the rear deck about 8" long, that go for/ aftt from the rear window to the trunk.
     
  6. iw378

    iw378 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    I can't see a problem with welding them up. Your talking about where the upper quarter meets the member that fits between the decklid and the rear window??
    I wouldn't go full mig on it, rather just a small root pass tig welded to seal it and then filler over it.
     
  7. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    That's it. We were thinking of stitching them up to eliminate the need for sealer for watertight. "A little putty" to finish off

    I've also decided to remove the beltline molding (This is a GT) so I've got a bunch of holes to weld. In the next few days I'm gonna start practicing. I can weld to an extent, but thin stuff is my downfall. Thinking of using nails!!!! for backup material, just stick them through from the back, tack, and grind off the stems.
     
  8. iw378

    iw378 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    That should work. Just a little advice on the welding. I don't know what kind of machine you are gonna use so here's my input. Mig (if you don't have a tig)
    A small 110 machine is good for this (lincoln or miller) small copperclad mig wire .025 and gas mix of 75/25,(runs cleaner than co2) As far as the nails go for backing, hit the heads on the bench grinder to get rid of any kind of coating like galvanizing and such.
    That will eliminate any blowouts. Pm me if you wish
    Luke
     
  9. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. My neighbor is pretty checked out. I'll probably leave those seams to him.
     
  10. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    Some progress. Bear in mind my neighbor works full time, and wants his share of winter sports--sledding, mostly. So this like many is a "part time" deal. I'm no bodyman, LOL

    Some of the ongoing rust fixes. I bought lower quarter patches, for the damage in them

    On a side note, the flash I used on my Canon 7D is an ancient, Vivitar 285HV. Don' need 'no steenking fancy modern strobes, LOL
     

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  11. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Just another dumbass. FABO Gold Member Technical Editor

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    Refresh my memory. What are you going to use for power? A 273? It needs more.
     
  12. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    What's was in there is a stock block/ heads smog 318, mild little cam, and Holley EFI. What MAY go back in is a mild 360. I would love to put a single turbo on it, remains to be seen.

    The 273, which needed rebuild hasn't been in there for a very long time. The 360 came out of a van I junked, ran great for awhile, and developed a low end knock. I bought the 318, very low miles, for 200 bucks. I don't think it had 20K on it.

    The object was to get it going and have some fun vice having it torn down for months. The 318 turned out to be quite snotty. It's weak point is the TF which has a big 'ol low stall converter

    The 318 was fun to drive what with 3.7X rear gear, reverse manual TF.
     
  13. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Just another dumbass. FABO Gold Member Technical Editor

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    I bet that was quite snappy. I put my vote in for a turbo 360 with a Thermoquad. lol
     
  14. txstang84

    txstang84 Well-Known Member

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    I'm likin' what you're doing here Del-can't wait to see more!
     
  15. clhyer

    clhyer Well-Known Member

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    Looks very good so far. Tell the neighbor that you have a lot of friends here looking for regular weekly updates - with pics!
    Do you have your part of the deal done yet?
    C
     
  16. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    Still have to install the OD unit for the AC later this spring. That will be a "wait for better weather" type deal. I get to buy the paint / materials
     
  17. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    Decided to propose a change in wheels already. Unfortunately these are the "wrong" ones but I'm going with them, anyhow, Looks like I'll need a 1/2" spacer on the rear. Part of this is because I'm running a Versailles 9" rear, which is a bit wider than a Dart rear.

    I already have the front / rear stud situation worked out. These are the "later" wheels and have a different offset from the rears (the black ones), which were a "bolt on."

    The photo of the Dart is late this summer---14" ETs on the front, 17" Stang wheels on the back
     

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  18. Abodybomber

    Abodybomber Pushing Mopars since 1991

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    That would be unique, and a hell of,a tuning curve. For pure badasserrary,hands down.
     
  19. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    Well I won't be running a Tquad. I already have way too much LOL invested in EFI

    the TB on my Holley EFI, even if I stay with TBI instead of coverting to multiport, already flows more than a TQ.
     
  20. daredevil

    daredevil Well-Known Member

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    I have seen many cars where these disappeared. Looks better in my opinion.
     
  21. txstang84

    txstang84 Well-Known Member

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    Those look like the first gen Bullitt style wheels...17"x8", should be with a 5.72" backspace--even with the wider axle, you still need spacers, or is it to keep the wheels off the springs?
     
  22. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    The black ones on the rear are early, the grey ones are the late. The late ones have deeper, "incorrect" backspace. See my update here:

    Some guy "on the www" claims you can tell by looking at the valve stems. The early ones "cut in" to the polished outer rim, IE are further "out." The late ones have the stems inside the polished outer rim

    http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=237684

    The black ones fit mine, because of the Versailles axle I use, with no spacers. The grey ones will require 1/2" spacer, I may go with 3/4"

    The early, black ones are about 5 3/4" backspace, the late, grey ones have about 6 3/8
     
  23. txstang84

    txstang84 Well-Known Member

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    Oh wow, that's a pretty significant difference. I couldn't really tell by looking at the pictures, but I know the S-197 wheels are indeed a deeper backspace.
     
  24. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    Not much to report. The neighbor finally announced tonight that "snowmobile season is over" so maybe I can kick his ass into gear. I had actually hoped we'd be further along He's welded up most of the chrome mountings, and got most of the work done on the lower quarter patches, and we've got the front /rear glass out. I pulled the dash frame out, finally

    I got the new short block, pulled the roller cam, and got it shipped to "Oregon cam grinders" who's going to turn it into a semblence of an XE -268H

    My old 71 340 X heads are out at a semi retired head shop guy in Post falls. This is just basic head work. I can't afford fancy porting, and don't want really high compression

    I'm thinking seriously........and probably will..........end up sticking the engine up in from the bottom, what with the new Dougs.
     
  25. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    Not much to update. I wish I could get some progress going. Also, I'm VERY lame this year. My new Doc is getting a hit for gout, and has me on a new med, and too early to see any result, yay or nay. Pulled the car out of the neighbor's shop last two days, and blew out as much blast media as I can get, and vacuumed it out. I can only work for a few minutes at a time, and have to sit and rest. Not sure how I'm really going to fully clean the cowl area. I bent some tube up in there, but there's still some in there

    The body IS pretty straight and much of the welding is done. I've decided to remove the GT chrome, and that is all welded up The lower quarter patches are "roughed" in but not done. Rockers are likewise not finish patched, but getting there. There is no serious body work left

    Got the cam back from Oregon cam. Have not got the heads back yet. Nothing special there, just a valve job.
     

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