Thinking about parting ways with my A body, give me opinions on what I should ask for it.

Discussion in 'Mopar General Discussions' started by Lars, Mar 20, 2017.

  1. Lars

    Lars Well-Known Member

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    It's a 70 with a mild 360. 72 block, J heads, .030 over, about 9.5:1 compression, Edelbrock Airgap intake, Demon 625cfm carb, MP electronic distributor, and a Comp 268 cam (if I remember correctly, I'd have to dig up the cam card). 727 was rebuilt about 15 years ago (no leaks), good steels and clutches, shifts solid, 2400 stall converter, and has a deep pan an external cooler plumbed with -AN lines (real stuff, Earls, Russel, etc, not garbage). 8 3/4 rear, Moser axles, front disc conversion from a 73 Duster, big ball joint conversion, rear drums off a C body if I remember correctly. Suspension was fully rebuilt in 1998 with PST parts, has Mopar Performance .920 bars in it, no sway bars as it never had any, Mopar shocks in front, KYB's in the rear. Manual steering, manual brakes, though it stops really well, all the metal brake lines were replaced when I did the disc conversion in 2000. Floors were replaced in 2002, along with a set of Mopar sub frame connectors. Has some Autometer gauges in it (tach, water temp, oil pressure). Needs the AM fuel gauge reinstalled as I just replaced the sender in the tank with a new one from Vans. Car is a column shift, the front bench and rear seat were recovered with non factory material around the 2002 time frame as well. Has an ARR six pack hood (I painted it, has a couple of runs in the scoop), AR racing mags, and a good set of tires I installed in 2012, rubber is a little old, but the car is stored indoors, so they still look new.

    The downsides to the car are this: I gutted it at one point to make it lighter (teenage plans and all that) So it has no carpet, it never had a headliner as long as I have had it, and the HVAC stuff was pulled off and tossed years ago since it was in bad shape anyway. Has block off panels that I made for the larger holes. Some other interior parts succumbed to the elements and have never been replaced (A pillar covers, dash pad is super cracked, etc). It has minor rust in the trunk, couple of pin holes, slight bubbling in the quarters, various door dings, and some old bondo work from the 80's it looks like. The worst of the rust is a small section around the trunk seal, a few inches worth below the driver's side sail panel. Rear bumper is pretty beat as teh chrome is peeling and rusty. The car is a solid 20 footer however and gets lots of attention when I drive it. It likes to over heat in stop and go traffic with the mechanical fan. I was looking into swapping electric fans onto it since I know it is a shroud problem (has a Summit racing aluminum 2 core radiator and the stock shroud doesn't fit it, I fabbed one, but it isn't very good). If you are moving though it'll stay cool all day long even in 100+ Texas temps I've found. Thinking if I can find the old flex fan that was on it, I would give it a try and see if that cools any better.

    I have had this car since I was 17 (nearly 19 years at this point), and despite being tired of it, it will be hard for me to let go of it. This is mostly due to it being my first car. I just don't have a plan for it anymore. I like it when I drive it, but I don't drive it anymore. I'd let it go with all the parts I have amassed for it over the years, 73 V8 K frame, the original hood, the original 318 (ran when pulled), the original shroud, a stock replacement rad, the original 904 (holds fluid like a fork), an A body 833, shifter parts (Inland though), 4 speed patch panel, 4 speed pedals, and an A body stick car column.

    2q39guu.jpg

    This pic is from when I put the Airgap on it a few years ago.
    2mr9tw9.jpg


    I have a lot of work and emotional effort tied up in this thing since it was my first car so it'll really skew opinion on what the car is worth. Any guesses on what a reasonable asking price would be?
     
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    • UDUST81

      UDUST81 Well-Known Member

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      i know youre asking for a value id say maybe 8-10k but honestly dont sell it you might not have any plans for it now, but in the future i bet you will
       
    • searcher1990

      searcher1990 Well-Known Member

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      if you need the money sell it, its just a car. if you don't need the money don't sell it as UDUST81 says, you might want it in the future. Park it for 3-6 months, if you don't miss it then its time to let someone else enjoy it. I agree with UDUST81, 8-10K.
       
    • BrianT

      BrianT Let's go! FABO Gold Member

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      Don't take this the wrong way but your time and emotional investment in the car aren't worth a penny to a potential buyer. I'd throw a cover and a battery tender on it. So many of us wish we had our first cars again.
       
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      • 73AbodEE

        73AbodEE I'm hungry

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        Well, eventually , you will kick yourself in the ass for doing it IF you don't replace it right away with something else you've always wanted . If you don't have plans to do that, you will probably be disappointed with the amount of cash you got and that shit will disappear so fast and you'll be even more pissed and upset.
        So , my opinion is you better get at least 20 large for it or don't sell it
         
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        • vntned

          vntned Well-Known Member

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          Ever run it at the track? I'm curious as to what it ran.
           
        • Lars

          Lars Well-Known Member

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          Hence the reason for the thread. I know my emotional attachment is worth exactly zero to a potential buyer.

          As much as I would love to have $20K for the car I know it isn't worth it. I was thinking it would be worth around $8K for everything, but I know literately nothing about the current market. I am good about managing money, I wouldn't burn it because my plan is to replace it with a 68 Charger rolling shell. However I need the space and cash to make that happen.

          Low 14's in the high 90's for mph. Been a long time since I ran it at the track. That was with 3.23's (which are a poor match to the converter that is in it) and street tires. Even with the 3.23's though 1st gear is completely useless, and most of 2nd is as well on street tires.
           
        • SLOPAR72

          SLOPAR72 Well-Known Member

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          Your emotions and passion for cars will bleed into the next one.... Man and his love of cars lol..... IMO you are done with this one and ready to move on to the next one.... Time to let someone else take over so you can begin working on another car.....

          I see the 8-10k for someone who wants it. You have put alot of work into it from reading your original post...

          Good luck,
          JW
           
        • abodyjoe

          abodyjoe Well-Known Member

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          seeing as most work was done over a decade ago, no heat, int needs a ton of work, rust issues i'd have to say its worth $5000 max to me. thats assuming that its as you state.. if its worse then my interpretation of your description then it would be less.. needs way too much to be worth anymore in my opinion..
           
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          • Lars

            Lars Well-Known Member

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            I'd have to clean it up and get some detailed pics of it anyway to give you guys an accurate idea of it's shape.
             
          • replicaracer43

            replicaracer43 Old school member

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            I'm thinking the "pin holes" "rust bubbling" under the paint, and "20 year old bondo work" means it's not as valuable as you might think. Just my opinion
             
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            • Lars

              Lars Well-Known Member

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              Considering the prices people are asking down here for pretty some rough cars(slant 6 and 318 cars) it should be worth more then $5K.
               
            • abodyjoe

              abodyjoe Well-Known Member

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              Are they getting that crazy money or just asking crazy money?
              In the end it's all about condition, condition , condition.
               
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              • Lars

                Lars Well-Known Member

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                Asking, but Mopars have always been way overpriced in Texas. They just aren't as common as Fords and Chevys down here.
                 
              • KnuckleDuster

                KnuckleDuster Well-Known Member

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                Condition and documentation, especially on the engine, reciepts for parts at the very least, and the more pictures of the internals the better. Vague descriptions or lack of proof when it comes to whats in the motor bring my personal value down when looking at a car. Body issues are easier to evaluate than trying to guess whats in an engine with no documentation.

                In the end nobody can really tell you what to ask, it's totally up to you.

                I'm not sure I could price mine if I wanted to. Realistically , I know I would be lucky to get a third of what I have in it, but not sure I could live with that.

                Btw, what area are you in? I'm in Georgetown.
                 
              • Lars

                Lars Well-Known Member

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                Bastrop county. I have receipts from 98 to today. Tons of pics somewhere also from the last time it was apart. I sold a 73 Dart years ago, needed floors, quarters, trunk pan, a sail panel. Seat was shot and it leaked. /6 auto, 8 3/4 with new tires and disk brakes were the only positives on the car. Still got $1200 for it.
                 
              • abodyjoe

                abodyjoe Well-Known Member

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                they aren't as common as ford or chevys anywhere..
                :)