Turning back the clock

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Win if you can....
Loose if you must....
But always cheat

Back then, referred to as creative engineering.......if you are not doing it, you are not trying hard enough

last year at a Carlisle seminar / banquet, we were told by the Chrysler Racing powers to be from the 60's and 70's.....this was their gospel.
 
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I just found this thread.... Outstanding effort here gentlemen, I am an older guy and remember the race cars of the late 60's and 70's well. Glad you guys have the time, energy, effort, talent and $$ to pull this off.
 
I just found this thread.... Outstanding effort here gentlemen, I am an older guy and remember the race cars of the late 60's and 70's well. Glad you guys have the time, energy, effort, talent and $$ to pull this off.

Thanks for looking thru the thread. I am fortunate to be involved in hundreds of builds....and this is by far, my favorite.
 
Denny aligns the finish primered body panels on the Butch Leal Hemi Duster; a task he
has become quite skillful at under the tutelage of our paint and body man Mark Boutwell.

Getting ready to cut the hole for the hoodscoop as the scoop itself is the only non-metal
panel allowed by the rulebook.

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This is by far my favorite restoration thread here. Well done, can't wait to see the final result
 
that body work sure looks smooth !!

Thanks.....the gaps look pretty good for just a bolt up. The grey primered area has already been finessed, the black sheetmetal (except rockers) is fresh out of the dippers with a coat of epoxy primer. Shouldn't take much to get those pieces ready for the final block and paint.

John and I rode to Good Guys with Bout (good friend / bodyshop owner) this last weekend and we discussed the fact that this car was built for the racetrack....not the Javitt Center. Perfect panel alignment was not Leal's top priority, but we will try not to disappoint.
 
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This is by far my favorite restoration thread here. Well done, can't wait to see the final result

We are on the same page Fisho....thanks for the props
 
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The hood scoop, which must go on the stock steel hood per 1975 NHRA B/MP rules, has been
cut for angle, height and snorkel length. Original picture for comparison.

The seats are sitting in there. We have new tracks with the correct upholstery and door panels
coming from Legendary Upholstery.

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Went over to Moser Engineering in Indiana yesterday and picked up a couple of rear ends
including the original Flash differential which we had fitted with new ends, axles, gears and
carrier. Powder coated satin black.

Mike at Moser was even good enough to duplicate the original welds on the ends as verified
by Gary Hansen from Ron Butler's.

One variation from original was to have the axles drilled for 4.5, 4.75 & 5.0 inch bolt circles
as wheels that we have been able to find from that era can be far and few between.

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I think we better slip the Dana / slicks n' tricks in for a final test / look see and make sure all is happy....and we can get a driveshaft measurement.
 
I think we better slip the Dana / slicks n' tricks in for a final test / look see and make sure all is happy....and we can get a driveshaft measurement.
I put one of those scoops on my hemi car back in the day, it was a ***** on the 66-67 belevedere hood to get leveled, I didn`t and it bugged the hell out of me for yrs. How wide of rims are you going to run on the rear ?
 
Rear wheels will be 15 x 13. We have some 15 x 14's also. These are still new; not even drilled yet. The pictures above show some very nice fronts but we also have an N.O.S. pair still new in the box including the center caps. I think in the six month process to find these wheels we have accumulated at least three complete sets but you can't pass them up when you find them.....then better ones come along. Remember, these things are 40 years old!

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Butch said he ran 14'' and 13"....the 13" for more MPH. We will run the 13" to tuck / squeeze the rears is as far as possible to help keep the rear of the car as low as we can get it.

to get the scoop the way it is took probably 50 trips outside to the grinder to gradually adjust the lower lip. I wanted it as high as possible in the front, but the trick of course is not taking anymore off than needed to conform to the contour of the not perfectly flat hood.
 
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Butch said he ran 14'' and 13"....the 13" for more MPH. We will run the 13" to tuck / squeeze the rears is as far as possible to help keep the rear of the car as low as we can get it.

to get the scoop the way it is took probably 50 trips outside to the grinder to gradually adjust the lower lip. I wanted it as high as possible in the front, but the trick of course is not taking anymore off than needed to conform to the contour of the not perfectly flat hood.
cool. keep it coming !
 
Will do Bob.....

Seeing the comparison pictures OMM posted got me thinking I should head to the shop today and add the rear and mount the slicks for a better evaluation........and motivation (like that is needed)
 
installed the rear today and sent pics to OMM.....no sign of him and not answering his phone. Today is his birthday, maybe he is out partying??
 
Here's the pics. Of course it will look different with slicks, ladder bars and wheelie bars installed.
Still, this is a major mental step as it is almost back on the ground and rolling. Probably need the
Dana in anyway to finish the brake lines and fuel lines. Coil overs gone - back to original spec.

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