UPDATE- wiring Help!

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BIG-B-Barracuda

BIG-B-Barracuda

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Okay guys so as things sit my 440 1968 barracuda had a crispy corroded bulkhead- had some power issues finally the fuse able link wire broke loose.

Luckily me I ran into a 70+ Duster in the junk yard and I took that bulkhead with the three connections with even more good luck this happened after a sofball game so fuseable link broke off in the parking lot preventing accident that most likely would of happened in freeway . No power . Power steering would of gotten all stiff what not ect....

So after two hours with only cell phone light in one hand and all other work done with the other hand I changed out the front of the center connection of bulk head that consisted of fuse able link wire- got her on and on my way home.

Next day I switched out the whole rest of it one by one each wire so I would miss connect something wrong, given that this bulkhead was the same but with different wire colors. I finished up and everything looked fine with the exception of my fan switch stopped working, one of my fog lights left driver side and car does not turn off I replaced the ignition switch and ignition resistor but now I am certain that my wiring is bad. :wack:

Bottom line is car does not turn off so essentially power is always on never off so batter dies after leaving off. So that connection must be missing a ground or is not connected or connected to power I don't know.. I've been turning it off by unplugging the ignition coil resistor connection off.

I've looked through all the wiring diagrams but I'm going crazy looking into all of this can any one tell me what wire to trace back to what .. I know there's mopars heads out there that must have had similar problems for this is a common issue ,
In this case with power not turning off must be something simple thT I can trace back easy?

Any one can refer any good mopar mechanics in the OC California area?
 
I traced back the ignition resistor coil wire into **** pit but get lot under the dash it's a stock mess! Don't know what else to math these wires up to because of the wire color difference and all the mess it leads into both in under dash and motor
 
Basically though many issues my main one I want to fix is my power issue

Key off position will not turn off the car after turning on been Turing off my disconnecting coil connection on resistor. But since the car is sending power through at all times and it does not have an off position my battery drains....

Help!
 
Sounds like your ignition switch is bad, allowing power to continue thru even in the off position. Have you got a wiring schematic for it?
 
If can only provide some info about wiring differences from 68 to 70. Don't know if it will help... 1968 had a dash mounted ign' switch and basically one wire for engine coming from it. It's blue with a white tracer. Past the ignition switch it branched to the inst' panel then went on to the bulkhead. Once outdoors it went to voltage regulator.
In 1970 the ign' switch moved to the steering column. At the same time they added electronic ignition and a different charging system. This meant more wires and more power went outdoors. To do that they changed are rearranged the wire locations at the bulkhead.
If you know the ignition system is always hot and the blower motor doesn't get power you can theorize that the blowers power is going to the ignition ? Danged if I know. I know guessing that this black wire must be this black wire wont work. If it was mine to fix, I would probably back up to square one and start over.
I wouldn't work upside down under the dash either. I can work on the interior half of the bulkhead connector sitting in the drivers seat, connector either between my knees or preferably out the inst' panel opening. I would make sure that half matched the factory 68 wiring diagrams all the way down to the hood mounted signal wires. Then I would wire the outdoor side to 68 specs per the same diagram. Adding the later model/type of charging system , ignition system, etc.. would be after the fact-ory wiring.
 
If you don't have, I'd download both the 69 and 70 shop manuals here. I'm pretty sure 68-9 is very close

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088491

I would unplug the ignition switch, unhook the coil, and hook up the battery. See if the ignition "run" wire right at the ign sw has power. This will confirm you have some sort of feedback

Unhook the field wire on the alternator and see if it has power under the above condition. It "should."

Unhook the coil and take a good look at what is hooked to the ballast resistor. WHAT do you have for an ignition system?

There is just NOT very much in the way of "stuff" going through the bulkhead, that is, you can eliminate much of it

Headlight high / low beam, so you can shut off the lights and that is dead

Turn signals, same deal. etc etc. Eliminate one circuit at a time

Take your meter/ light and draw out a diagram of the bulkhead. Map out which terminals are "hot" with everything in the car turned off.

This MAY be a problem in the under dash harness. You MAY have two or more wires melted together.

Another approach you could take is to SPLIT the problem into the engine bay --- or --- the interior

Pull all bulkhead connectors off in the engine bay

You will now have NO power into the car, because the battery feed (fuse link) is disconnected. Identify the fuse link connection. Since you have a damaged harness, you can "rob" a spade out of that bulkhead and plug only the one spade into the fuse link terminal in the bulkhead, and run a clip lead to the battery. Now you power back into the car, but you do NOT have any of the engine bay harness

Now see (with key off) if the "ignition run" or the "bypass" (ign2) wire is hot. If not your problem is in the engine bay.
 
I have had countless problems with my 74 duster and I m located in the OC area. So I may be able to help. I have gone through 2 bulk heads bc that red power wire melts the plastic big mess. Since you have replaced the ignition switch it sounds like what ever is powering your run may also be powering your off. I would start at the bulk head since thats where your problem starts and use a test light and see where the power is coming from. I m not sure on your car which color the wires are but thats a start
 
67Dart273 said:
If you don't have, I'd download both the 69 and 70 shop manuals here. I'm pretty sure 68-9 is very close

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088491

I would unplug the ignition switch, unhook the coil, and hook up the battery. See if the ignition "run" wire right at the ign sw has power. This will confirm you have some sort of feedback

Unhook the field wire on the alternator and see if it has power under the above condition. It "should."

Unhook the coil and take a good look at what is hooked to the ballast resistor. WHAT do you have for an ignition system?

There is just NOT very much in the way of "stuff" going through the bulkhead, that is, you can eliminate much of it

Headlight high / low beam, so you can shut off the lights and that is dead

Turn signals, same deal. etc etc. Eliminate one circuit at a time

Take your meter/ light and draw out a diagram of the bulkhead. Map out which terminals are "hot" with everything in the car turned off.

This MAY be a problem in the under dash harness. You MAY have two or more wires melted together.

Another approach you could take is to SPLIT the problem into the engine bay --- or --- the interior

Pull all bulkhead connectors off in the engine bay

You will now have NO power into the car, because the battery feed (fuse link) is disconnected. Identify the fuse link connection. Since you have a damaged harness, you can "rob" a spade out of that bulkhead and plug only the one spade into the fuse link terminal in the bulkhead, and run a clip lead to the battery. Now you power back into the car, but you do NOT have any of the engine bay harness

Now see (with key off) if the "ignition run" or the "bypass" (ign2) wire is hot. If not your problem is in the engine bay.
Click to expand...


The problem is definitely in the bulk head, I will try this and keep you guys posted. :cheers::lurk:
 
hawkgoalie31 said:
I have had countless problems with my 74 duster and I m located in the OC area. So I may be able to help. I have gone through 2 bulk heads bc that red power wire melts the plastic big mess. Since you have replaced the ignition switch it sounds like what ever is powering your run may also be powering your off. I would start at the bulk head since thats where your problem starts and use a test light and see where the power is coming from. I m not sure on your car which color the wires are but thats a start
Click to expand...


Great feedback I'd definitely like a person to person perspective on this by you looking at it
Ill try your suggestion and keep you posted.
I'm located by the Brea Mall . :thumblef:
 
If you run an alternator output wire with appropriately sized fusible link to the battery terminal on the starter relay, a large percentage of these bulkhead problems will cease.
 
67Dart273 said:
Big B, when you feel ambitious, read this article which points up the whys and hows of the bulkhead connector problems

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Click to expand...

So this is the diagnosis- haven't gotten to mess around with it yet but.

Windshield wiper only one speed works (LOW)

Left light works on turn mode but not on (ON) mode I believe it turns on after I activate the left turn for a good while.

Car will not turn off on key mode (OFF) because of this my car will die out if not disconnected from battery because its essentially always on on mode.

With that said what I understood from you is that I shoul disconnect all wire except fuse able link (power) and try hooking up one by one till my problems are fixed or re arrange so to say. Because I believe the problem lies in the center bulk head switch
 
If my mind serves me correctly these are all issues with center bulkhead switch on bulk head yes?

Also I forgot o mention my AC fan blower switch does not work ... Does not blow when switched on ... (FAN)
 
Thanks everyone! Fixed her tonight! Had the center plug wires upside down haha'
Not all of them but the opposite side of the fuse able link!
Here are some iagrams I used and that helped me!!!!!






 
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