Updated SPITFIRE HEADER INSTALL 63-66 A-body

Should this be made a STICKY?


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    34
  • Poll closed .
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daves66valiant

68 Dart 340/727:66 Signet Vert 340/5spd: 68 D100
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Got the spitfires installed today. The install went very easy compared to the TTI's. Makes me want to go to manual steering on my convertible.

Car: 1966 Plymouth Valiant 360 4 speed

These headers do not require you to remove anything from the car besides the old 273 stock manifolds which are useless for any kind of street car. I had to move my power brake booster and master cylinder out of the way to make room, but that was easy enough. I didn't even have to disconnect the brake lines which was nice. By the way you can use the stock starter as well.

spitfireheaders002.jpg


A little advice DO NOT USE ALLEN HEAD BOLTS. I used ARP header bolts with the hex heads. You WILL need to remove the cylinder head studs. Vice grips worked well. Oh and keep a drain pan handy since the water jackets are behind these studs.

spitfireheaders006.jpg


DRIVER'S SIDE

With the ARP header bolts I had to shave a little off one of the bolts to get clearance. It was the 4th bolt next to #5 spark plug. This may not be necessary with standard style hex head bolts. See pic below

spitfireheaders012.jpg


Now to keep the gasket in place slightly thread in two bolts at #1 and #5. These headers have slotted holes which was very nice. Next, you'll slide the header on while tightening #5 bolt until it just starts to get snug against the header flange. Here is where you will want to start lining up all the other bolts as well. You'll see what I mean once you start installing them. Then just tighten everything down and you're done.

spitfireheaders014.jpg


spitfireheaders011.jpg


PASSENGER SIDE

Unfortunately, a good buddy of mine (ahem Johnny Dart) snapped one of the stud bolts in the passenger side cylinder head. =P~ This was a pain in the *** because I busted an ez-out in the hole I had drilled into the stud. :angry7: Had to bust out the dremel and grind it out so I could then drill out the stud and re-tap the thread. THANKS JOHNNY for that fun filled adventure. LOL.

spitfireheaders015.jpg


The passenger side goes on just as easily. You will need the 90* oil filter adapter unless you are running a remote filter. Once again if using the ARP header bolts, you will need to massage/indent the header tube next to the #2 plug and shave the top of the bolt lightly. Same as the driver's side, to keep the gasket in place thread the bolts next to #2 and #6. Slide everything in place and tighten. DONE.

spitfireheaders021.jpg


Dumps above the torsion bars

spitfireheaders025.jpg


I'll be headed to the muffler shop tomorrow with open headers :cheers: to get new pipes hooked up. I plan to use a drag racing header style slip joint, which I've heard does not leak nearly as much. Hope this helps.

This was so simple, smooth and easy. The fit is great. These headers do not come with the exhaust pipe flanges welded on. Harold leaves this option open to the individual's preference. Harold is great to deal with and he is in production for sure. It took 5 weeks to get mine. Mention this website too :-D

Spitfire Headers
Harold Johnson
(479)650-9989

Dave
 
I voted yes. Sure this thread is helpful


I didn't realize that you was talking about a early model A-body verus late model in your other thread. I'm sure they fit better than the TTIs ... heck might as well went with shorty headers. They don't like much being shorties. Remember longer tubes are better far as performance is concerned.
 
glad they worked so well for you. they really woke up djv's car when he put them on. atleast the broken stud was a front one that is easier to get to..

get rid of that fram filter and pit a wix/napa gold on there.


isn't there suposed to be a rubber support piece on the end of that column there? i remember my 64 valiant and djv's car having it. see pic.

spitfireheaders011.jpg
 
Stuck, Just PM me next time, lOL

Joe, there should either be a plastic bushing in there or a bearing. My car had the plastic bushing and a piece of foam to keep it tight. It may be up high enough that it cant bee seen.
 
Joe, there should either be a plastic bushing in there or a bearing. My car had the plastic bushing and a piece of foam to keep it tight. It may be up high enough that it cant bee seen.


i think the early a's had a rubber thing with plastic inside it on the end. i remember finding it at carlisle for djv's car.
 
Good thread Dave, certainly will help anybody that`s preparing to install a set. I broke that same stud off on my 67 just the other day (same one)and had to use a Dremel to grind it out. I`m sure that happens a lot when taking apart these 40+ year old cars. Could the header flange be notched? Removing the head studs is asking for it. Lol! You`ll have to let us know how the headers wake up that engine.
 
Hi Dave, the steering column seal runs about 45 bucks, I think its primary function is to keep moisture and dust from entering the steering tube. Orienting the header flange on the driver side is really important to reach the header flange bolt heads (from the top) and to slip the header past the Z-bar. Also using good seals prevents reinstallation headaches I used Remflex seals (the second time around) and they have held up pretty good.

ZbarCollector.JPG
 
Nice pics. :)

Why is the valve cover off?

Lee/cavemanmoron

Getting rid of the POS Chinese Proform Roller rockers. Have a set of Crane Gold roller rockers going on today. I don't need another nightmare hitch-hiking experience. LOL

BTW caveman these would be great for your little 318. They are easier to install than taking the old ones in and out.

glad they worked so well for you. they really woke up djv's car when he put them on. atleast the broken stud was a front one that is easier to get to..

get rid of that fram filter and pit a wix/napa gold on there.


isn't there suposed to be a rubber support piece on the end of that column there? i remember my 64 valiant and djv's car having it. see pic.

Yes there is supposed to be a rubber cap on the end but this car did not come with one from the PO. Those things are a PITA to find. I plan to stuff copper pipe insulating foam up into the tube.

Why do you need it? All the hot air from the engine runs up the steering column and exits right onto your legs and crotch. Not cool having steamed oysters on a hot summer day. Don't ask how I know.

That filter a PH16 shorty was what I happened to have in the garage as an extra because I damaged the other one with the tie rod when checking clearance. DOH. Headed to Napa later today to get the longer PH8 style Wix.

Good thread Dave, certainly will help anybody that`s preparing to install a set. I broke that same stud off on my 67 just the other day (same one)and had to use a Dremel to grind it out. I`m sure that happens a lot when taking apart these 40+ year old cars. Could the header flange be notched? Removing the head studs is asking for it. Lol! You`ll have to let us know how the headers wake up that engine.

Yes you could notch the header flange as well. All the other holes are notched.

I will update the performance improvement soon. Longer tubes would be great but have been there already.
 
Hi Dave, the steering column seal runs about 45 bucks, I think its primary function is to keep moisture and dust from entering the steering tube. Orienting the header flange on the driver side is really important to reach the header flange bolt heads (from the top) and to slip the header past the Z-bar. Also using good seals prevents reinstallation headaches I used Remflex seals (the second time around) and they have held up pretty good.

Hopefully I can find a good muffler shop today that will know what they are doing and not hack things into place. I totally get you on the bolt placement. This is why I wanted to go with a slip joint style. I used remflex on my 340 with tti's. They are really nice.

Thanks Blue great picture.
 
Your welcome Dave, The shop who did my pipes spent most of the morning getting the drivers side pipe to transition through that area properly, the rest of the job was quick by comparison. I mocked up the collector flange orientation for both headers and then had them welded (never thought about a slip joint collector). I can’t get to the bolt heads on the drivers side, from under the car, at all. Removing those bolts requires a second person on top with a very long extension. I rarely have that luxury and manage on my own. Passenger side is accessible from bottom if the orientation positions one bolt towards the rear of the car. I used ARP stainless steel studs on the four corners of the heads , like stock manifold used but had make some shorter to get the headers in and out. The passenger side of the transmission mount must be “hogged out” so that pipe can route through straight, you probable already know that from your TTI installation. The only other area that was a problem was stabilizing the passenger pipe by the gas tank, so it doesn’t rattle.
Good Luck
 
The place that is doing mine does a lot of hot rods. They'll be able to get to it on Friday. I'm dropping it off at 8am. Hopefully, I don't get busted by the noise police. Plus I need to get insurance on it. OOOPs should have done that by now LOL.

I got the new rockers on and fired her up today. I forgot to put some RTV on one of the bolts so it had a little coolant leak on the Passensger side. Easy fix.

Here is some uncorked video. This thing sounds wicked. Makes me think about having the performance muffler shop weld in header dumps. I'm hoping this fixes some of my performance woes. I only ran it for about 10 minutes to help the VHT paint cure. It was loud as hell. I was a nice guy and warned my little granny neighbor next door. hehe.

 
I wouldn`t be surprised if by removing the 273 manifolds and installing those headers you gain over 30 hp! Is it an optical illusion or are those tubes really large?
 
The place that is doing mine does a lot of hot rods. They'll be able to get to it on Friday. I'm dropping it off at 8am. Hopefully, I don't get busted by the noise police. Plus I need to get insurance on it. OOOPs should have done that by now LOL.

I got the new rockers on and fired her up today. I forgot to put some RTV on one of the bolts so it had a little coolant leak on the Passensger side. Easy fix.

Here is some uncorked video. This thing sounds wicked. Makes me think about having the performance muffler shop weld in header dumps. I'm hoping this fixes some of my performance woes. I only ran it for about 10 minutes to help the VHT paint cure. It was loud as hell. I was a nice guy and warned my little granny neighbor next door. hehe.


Dave, if you have to (or want to) start it up again for awhile and turn it back off, shove a hand full of steel wool or the equivalent in the collector opening afterwards. It's old school but I have always down that (especially if the temps were a little chilly outside).
 
I'll be running it on Friday morning. I should put some thing in the collectors to prevent rust I guess is what you are getting at GTX
 
I'll be running it on Friday morning. I should put some thing in the collectors to prevent rust I guess is what you are getting at GTX

Well, whenever we ran the exhaust uncorked (this includes headers but especially with shorties or with the headpipes exposed on manifolds), we always stuffed steel wool or something up there after it was heated up so that if it were cold outside, the valves wouldn't be subjected to quick cool down temps. I am thinking that in your area, the temps may not be so dramatic but old habits die hard.
 
Great installation thread Dave! They look like a good alternative to TTI's....

And as for the open headers, if you get pulled over just point out the next SUV that rolls by with 24" wheels and an 8 million watt stereo pumping out pure crap and ask why THAT'S ok? :-D
 
On an added note. Harold called me to check and see how the headers worked out yesterday. Nice guy. He also added that these headers will fit 67 and up a-bodies with power steering as well.

$225 for a set of a-body headers is a damn good deal to me.

I'll post more pictures of the exhaust hook up with the z-bar and all soon.

Dave
 
Thanks for the update, Dave. I need to get mine ordered. Looking forward to pictures of them connected to the exhaust.
 
Sure hope mine come through soon. He cashed my check. Can't reach him by phone since. Left a couple of messages. Everything is on hold until I get the headers.
 
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