abodyjim
Well-Known Member
Has anyone milled the pedestal stands down on the econo heads to use the race head valve gear?
Good or bad idea, opinions welcome
Good or bad idea, opinions welcome
W2 head question
- Thread starter abodyjim
- Start date
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The answer is yes they can be milled down for rocker shaft stands.
Econo heads have pedestals where the race head has them milled flat for shaft stands. That's the only difference between the two heads. Nthing more, nothing less. Both heads were available with long valves.
Econo heads have pedestals where the race head has them milled flat for shaft stands. That's the only difference between the two heads. Nthing more, nothing less. Both heads were available with long valves.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Yes. Mine were born with stands and we milled them off.
abodyjim
Well-Known Member
Good, figured it could be and had been done.
Does it improve rocker geometry for high lifts(.650ish with a 1.6) over the pedestal stands? Buying new rockers so I can go either way.
The heads have valves that I believe are still good but are the short valves. Do I need to look at switching to long valves?
Stroker 414, like to get somewhere close to the 600hp range if that helps.
Does it improve rocker geometry for high lifts(.650ish with a 1.6) over the pedestal stands? Buying new rockers so I can go either way.
The heads have valves that I believe are still good but are the short valves. Do I need to look at switching to long valves?
Stroker 414, like to get somewhere close to the 600hp range if that helps.
The pedestals (econo head) are like stock pedestals. You can probably get good geometry from them with shims to adjust the height of the shaft. B3 sells his kit which many like a lot to correct the angles. The same issue will persist with the race heads as well. It will also persist with long or short valves. Each engine will require a look into what it needs exactly.
For large lifts, I suggest a longer valve and tall (2.00 inch area) valve springs.
This can be used on ether style it f W2 head.
Milling the stands for an econo head to replace them with custom stands is not an easy cut and install job. The stands themselves can be height adjusted. The stands sold are not a bolt on and run without adjustment item ether.
IMO, the simplest way, I would leave the stands and see what can be done with the head as cast before sending the head to the mill. Unless you and/or your machinist are very good, this could be a can of worms.
Race W2 heads are still a available.
For large lifts, I suggest a longer valve and tall (2.00 inch area) valve springs.
This can be used on ether style it f W2 head.
Milling the stands for an econo head to replace them with custom stands is not an easy cut and install job. The stands themselves can be height adjusted. The stands sold are not a bolt on and run without adjustment item ether.
IMO, the simplest way, I would leave the stands and see what can be done with the head as cast before sending the head to the mill. Unless you and/or your machinist are very good, this could be a can of worms.
Race W2 heads are still a available.
Agree with above statements. For moderate lift make the pedestals work. If you milk the pedestals to the race head night and use race head stands and shafts and leave the short valves you will be worse off. You will have to upgrade to longer valves.
If you can get by with the installed height of the current heads you will save a bunch of money as well (no new valves, shafts or stands plus the labor)
If you can get by with the installed height of the current heads you will save a bunch of money as well (no new valves, shafts or stands plus the labor)
Oooo, good mention!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I agree with posts 7 and 8. If you mill the stands you will need longer valves, the offset stands and offset shafts to make it all work. As the valve stem gets higher, you MUST move the shaft UP and TOWARDS the intake manifold to correct geometry.
I *think* if you are under .650 NET lift and you use a B3 engines shim correction kit you can probably leave the stand alone and make it run very well.
Once you net over .650 you just about have to cut the stands and use offset blocks and stands.
I *think* if you are under .650 NET lift and you use a B3 engines shim correction kit you can probably leave the stand alone and make it run very well.
Once you net over .650 you just about have to cut the stands and use offset blocks and stands.
abodyjim
Well-Known Member
Exactly the information I needed to pull me back to reality and build within the parts I have.
Not sure how to quote all you guys at once to say thanks, but thanks everyone!
Not sure how to quote all you guys at once to say thanks, but thanks everyone!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Cool. Just make sure you call Mike at B3 racing engines and talk to him about correcting your geometry. And check out his web sight. Lots of good tech there.
B3racingengines.com
Your welcome and to quote more than one person at a time....
Hit reply for the first quote and then hit the "+QUOTE" over and over again until you get everyone you want.
When the window to reply comes up there will be another button you click to add in all the multiple quotes.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Krooser
Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
I only like to argue with one person at a time....
abodyjim
Well-Known Member
I'll check it out and give him a call
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