Wheelie question

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RJK3

RJK3

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Would slowing down the compression on the front shocks help to keep the car in my avatar from coming down and bouncing?
Or will it make it worse?
Right now it bounces 3 times after the hit.
Also scuffs the pan a bit.
It's a ladder bar car 90/10's on it at the moment. Looking at getting double adjustable shocks for the front.
Thanks for any input!
 
Are the 90/10's adjustable to 80/20 or 70/30? Also, if your ladder bars will adjust I might recommend moving them up a hole if available.
 
RJK3 said:
Non adjustable.
Click to expand...
It sounds like the car is coming down too fast and hard after the wheelie. Stiffening the shocks might let the car settle down softer and less likely to bounce. Also moving the IC up and/or back would lessen it from wheel standing so much and thus coming down softer but you would lose some weight transfer and could spin the tires.
 
Yeah, it's hooking great right now. I believe, as you said, that slowing the front a bit will help. Was just concerned that it may make it worse. Just trying to figure out where to put the focus. Thanks for the input!
 
What's the ET of your car? This might sound stoooopid but I do things that are low cost and when my 10.60 car was coming up too quick and unloading the rears, I took the 90/10's off and threw on some 50/50's. After trying limiters, adjusting the ladders, ride height and throwing the kitchen sink at it, I put everything back like it was and tried the 50/50's low and behold, they worked. They were just some spare street shocks hanging on the wall....
 
What you could do for now is move the ladder bar to the other holes and see what happens. If your going to buy the DA shocks no matter what then you can play around with them when you get them.

What you're looking for is for the car to carry the front end further. As the torque falls off and the car settles down it should settle down more gently. It's not always possible because you usually lose some weight transfer.
 
4:88 gear.
Considering making a change there as well, it traps at 7500.
Would like to get that down a bit.
 
If it is hooking good, and you like the wheelie, don't mess with the ladder bars. If you don't like the wheelie, and think you are losing e.t because of the excessive driving after the wheelie, then soften up the hit with your ladder bars. Or you get the extra long upper control arm bumpers and limit almost all of the free travel in the front. But, if ALL you want to do is stop the bounce, I highly recommend good front shocks. Buy a set of Santhuff's and never buy another set. I promise the for will stick the landing like a gold medal gymnast! The problem with stiffening up the cheap shocks too much is, you still get bounce out of the torsion bars.
 
Oh man....the 90/10's shouldn't even be near that car!! :D
 
Lol, they were on the car when my Dad got it.
Slowly trying to get it dialed in. We've only had it down the track 8 times. The pic is from the first ( and Only) launch off the trans brake. It's his car, I'm just the lucky bastard that gets to drive it...;)
 
It stays pretty straight after the wheelie, just a slight pull to the right.
Even foot braking it from 2200-2400 it pulls them up 5-6 inches and has the same slight drift to the right.
 
Mine had over 300 passes on it....loved driving the thing. It also had 4.88's with a 12.5W tire and crossed at 7300 shifting at 6900. It was still pulling good too. One day I ran it out the back door and it didn't take it long to hit 7600 and that's where I said enough. Had a car that went 9.95 and when it hit 7500, that was it and it was at that point by the 1000' mark. Kinda funny how that happens but a 318 car that went 13.50 would hit 6200 and run out of breath. The teen car was a totally bad combo of spare parts that was just thrown at it but didn't expect 13's out of it at all lol
 
The bouncing is the reaction from the car launching so high. So, anything you can do to keep the car from traveling that high will counter the bouncing. I would try lowering the wheelie bars some.
 
Been looking at that too, the bars that are on it aren't very "robust" in my opinion, they have the spring loaded upper with the lower bar attached to a fairly chinsy looking bracket that hangs below the rear end.

I guess I don't know how to use the quote function....lol
I tried!
 
RJK3 said:
Been looking at that too, the bars that are on it aren't very "robust" in my opinion, they have the spring loaded upper with the lower bar attached to a fairly chinsy looking bracket that hangs below the rear end.

I guess I don't know how to use the quote function....lol
I tried!
Click to expand...

Take a look at the MP suspension book. It shows in detail how to make your own bars that are STOUT and very inexpensive to make. I always liked that design.
 
If it's pulling check rear axle alignment, tire roll out and scale the car.

Stiffen up the front end a little to slow the extension. It's a good problem to have if coming up too fast.

Softening the hit would be another way with bar and rear shock adjustments. Try a bit more air for slicks if it's basically dead hooking, that's as cheap as it comes.
 
He's working on getting it scaled. Would limiting the extension slow the lift?
I'd hate to give up travel on the compression.
We're leaving at 4500 off the brake, trying not to get too far away from the power band.
I'll have him check the roll out on the tires.
The pull isn't much at all, just a bit.
 
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