Wheel bearing +race

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Snake

Mopar Nut
Joined
May 22, 2006
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How many of you replace the race in you rotor? Just got my wheel bearings + races i have look at the races and they look fine.
 
Yea, I'd never run the old ones unless it was a roadside emergency.
Get the proper tool or a brass drift to drive em out.
Try not to let them get crooked, you may end up expanding the hole in the hub.
Even that's not the end of the world, can be fixed.
 
Well I have to admit i will take the rotors to a shop to replace the races,never done it and i want it done right.
 
Yes replace them. You can knock them out yourself it very simple.
Rod
 
The old school method was to always replace bearings in matched sets of inner and outer parts. There wasn't anything like ISO9000 quality/strictly held tolerances back then. Today a lot of new rotors come with races pre installed.
I still replace entire bearing as boxed, matched pieces. Heck even when I pull rotors for turning I sort and mark so rotor and bearings goes back on the spindle they came off of.
The old race removed serves as a driver to install the new race too if that tip helps.
 
The old school method was to always replace bearings in matched sets of inner and outer parts. There wasn't anything like ISO9000 quality/strictly held tolerances back then. Today a lot of new rotors come with races pre installed.
I still replace entire bearing as boxed, matched pieces. Heck even when I pull rotors for turning I sort and mark so rotor and bearings goes back on the spindle they came off of.
The old race removed serves as a driver to install the new race too if that tip helps.
THAT TIP does help,but call me yeller.
 
Can use an old cone in a new cup but not other way around.
I always wear safety glasses.
A good drift will get them out easy. I have an old diff spider gear pin i use for driving them out. Clean hub thoroughly before and after replacing cups.
 
Knock them out with a punch, and set them back in with a piece of pipe, and the old bearing.
Done them that way for 30 years.
 
Ok boysssssssss just pick up my turned rotors+ races installed.Thanks for the help.

I didn't know people were still having their old rotors turned. I just use a new rotor and replace the races with the matched set that comes with the new bearings.

If I'm just upgrading pads, I sand the rotor face to deglaze it, spray it off with brake clean and install new pads. I also seat the pads with gentle brake applications that incrementally increase the speed and application pressure. That seems to work well.
 
I didn't know people were still having their old rotors turned. I just use a new rotor .

Somehow I doubt the local O'really?s will stock old Mopar rotors. Hell I bought myself a used Ammco disk / drum lathe. "In a previous life" decades ago, as a parts counterman, I've turned THOUSANDS of drums and rotors, from the smallest made to heavy trucks. We had an A frame hoist to make handling the big logging truck drums easier.
 
Somehow I doubt the local O'really?s will stock old Mopar rotors. Hell I bought myself a used Ammco disk / drum lathe. "In a previous life" decades ago, as a parts counterman, I've turned THOUSANDS of drums and rotors, from the smallest made to heavy trucks. We had an A frame hoist to make handling the big logging truck drums easier.

There's nothing wrong with turning those parts, especially if you have the equipment. It's rare to see any brake lathes in shops anymore though.

I upgraded my front discs to the 11 3/4" Police/Taxi rotors on the front of both my '68 A-Body & '70 E-Body. I run Doctor Diff's Econo kit rotors on the rear of both cars. Those front rotors are readily available at the local stores, but I did order fresh front rotors for my '70 and fresh rear rotors for my '68 in the last few weeks.

The rears do have some custom machining to the register hole and the lug nut holes, are slotted, drilled and plated. The fronts came drilled, slotted and plated too. I replaced the races in them with National bearing parts though, at Cass's recommendation. They do look nice.

For pads, I went with Firm Feel's metallic composite pads up front and ceramic composite pads in the rear. The brake system on both cars is phenomenally better than stock.
 
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