Which distributor should I use?

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glhx

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Both are 318 2 bbl
1968 points distributor out of a truck
Or
1976 electronic distributor out of a charger

Car won't be raced. Just some spirited driving here and there

I don't know yet if the 68 is worn out but I can put a pertronix kit in there.

I don't know much about the mechanical advance or vacuum advance of either of these.

Not sure if the mechanical or vacuum advance curve is any better than the other.


Don't know if the 1976 came from a lean burn car. The car did have the two barrel and I think the lean burn was 4 bbl

When I hooked the electronic distributor up the first time it didn't work. This was with a new control box from autozone.....the box is gold in color. I may have hooked it up wrong at the time. This time I won't.

Was going to install the electronic and set the total timing to 35°
Running the car up to the point where the total timing stops. Guessing that's 2500rpm.
I'll push it till timing stops to see where it's at.

Trying to figure out the best route with what I have.
 
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For me it's a no brainer, the simplicity of points win for your spirited driver.
Back to back, you'll see zero real world difference between the two.
 
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For me it's a no brained, the simplicity of points win for your spirited driver.
Back to back, you'll see zero real world difference between the two.

Except for the part where he has to adjust and change points occasionally, and not with the electronic.:D
 
The breakerless will have a very long, very slow "smog" advance setup. FBO ignition sells a "limiter plate" kit which makes recurving distributors fairly easy. Give that, "electronic." I'd use an HEI module not Mopar box. There's a thread on here about sticking an HEI module into a gutted Mopar box
 
Since it does not sound like you are wanting anything particularly original, then I second the thought of doing an HEI conversion. The extra spark energy really makes a valuable performance difference. I do believe Trailbeast sells HEI conversions for the Mopar distributors.

(And I don't have any bias to any particular one... I raced 4 bangers for ages on points to 8+K RPM. Totally reliable and easy to work with once you learned them.)
 
Sounds like a lot of options and more research.

How bout a pertronix igniter in the 68 points distributor?
Would the advance curve be slow with the 68 as well?

I had a feeling the curve was slow with the 76 advance.


I've never really messed with a distributor before
 
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Depends on whether you want to be changing points or not. It very easy to recurve either to be whatever you want. @halifaxhops can recurve it for you to whatever specs you are looking for.
 
I don't mind changing the points. I'm just adding some stuff to this engine. Based around the xe262 cam or one higher while maintaining stock compression or some head milling
 
Since it does not sound like you are wanting anything particularly original, then I second the thought of doing an HEI conversion. The extra spark energy really makes a valuable performance difference. I do believe Trailbeast sells HEI conversions for the Mopar distributors.

(And I don't have any bias to any particular one... I raced 4 bangers for ages on points to 8+K RPM. Totally reliable and easy to work with once you learned them.)

Thanks for the mention, but I no longer do the HEI kits, only the advance modded and total limited distributors for the electronic ignition.


I don't mind changing the points. I'm just adding some stuff to this engine. Based around the xe262 cam or one higher while maintaining stock compression or some head milling

This type of build is an excellent candidate for an HEI conversion though I gotta say that.:D
Heck even a "ready to run" distributor and a good E or C core coil would be pretty cheap and effective for that motor.
Less than 100 bucks for the entire hotter than stock ignition system.

These are pretty hard to beat for the money and do the job very well for a mild motor car.
Comes with 8mm wires, separators and all, and you don't have to build or rig anything.
SB Mopar Ready To Run Distributor Kit W/ E-Core Coil Dodge 318 340 360 Chrysler | eBay
 
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Just a thought, but have you thought to see if the limiter plate can be used with a points distributor? Maybe a little archaic, but it would be one more thing to offer. Not everyone wants to run electronic. It would be interesting to see if it was compatible.

Thanks for the mention, but I no longer do the HEI kits, only the advance modded and total limited distributors for the electronic ignition.




This type of build is an excellent candidate for an HEI conversion though I gotta say that.:D
Heck even a "ready to run" distributor and a good E or C core coil would be pretty cheap and effective for that motor.
Less than 100 bucks for the entire hotter than stock ignition system.

These are pretty hard to beat for the money and do the job very well for a mild motor car.
Comes with 8mm wires, separators and all, and you don't have to build or rig anything.
SB Mopar Ready To Run Distributor Kit W/ E-Core Coil Dodge 318 340 360 Chrysler | eBay
 
I put a Pertronix in my 70 318 single point. A little lighter spring and total timing limit and it works very well.
 
Just a thought, but have you thought to see if the limiter plate can be used with a points distributor? Maybe a little archaic, but it would be one more thing to offer. Not everyone wants to run electronic. It would be interesting to see if it was compatible.
Not to totally blow any trade secrets or anything like that, but I have and also have a plan for adapting the latest Pertronics unit with the rev limiter built in into a small block electronic distributor.:D
Pertronics doesn't make one for the OE electronic distributor.
The OE is well suited for it mechanically.


I put a Pertronix in my 70 318 single point. A little lighter spring and total timing limit and it works very well.

Was that with the FBO timing plate or a different method of total limiting?
 
Not to totally blow any trade secrets or anything like that, but I have and also have a plan for adapting the latest Pertronics unit with the rev limiter built in into a small block electronic distributor.:D
Pertronics doesn't make one for the OE electronic distributor.
The OE is well suited for it mechanically.




Was that with the FBO timing plate or a different method of total limiting?
I just modified the original plate.
 
There so cheep at the parts store. I think I paid something like $79 for brand new billet aluminum (stock) distributor - electronic with new rotor and new black cap.
From my experience anything more than a clean newer stock ignition is a waste on anything less than 90% race effort. My -2
 
THEY'RE so cheep at the parts store. I think I paid something like $79 for brand new billet aluminum (stock) distributor - electronic with new rotor and new black cap.
From my experience anything more than a clean newer stock ignition is a waste on anything less than 90% race effort. My -2

THERE. I fixed it for you. lol
 
Just a thought, but have you thought to see if the limiter plate can be used with a points distributor? Maybe a little archaic, but it would be one more thing to offer. Not everyone wants to run electronic. It would be interesting to see if it was compatible.
Yes it is mounts above the weights under the cam plate.
 
Right now it has a blaster 2 coil on it
Which is a pretty decent stock type coil. But an HEI coil and module will put out significantly more spark energy.

FWIW, this creates a hotter 'spark kernal' (which is the initila part of the bun process) which makes the combustion process work better and to proceed faster. (And thus it effectively adds a bit of spark advance into the whole situation.) You really ARE gonna see this in performance and general operation.
 
Which is a pretty decent stock type coil. But an HEI coil and module will put out significantly more spark energy.

FWIW, this creates a hotter 'spark kernal' (which is the initila part of the bun process) which makes the combustion process work better and to proceed faster. (And thus it effectively adds a bit of spark advance into the whole situation.) You really ARE gonna see this in performance and general operation.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...zMAM&usg=AOvVaw2HTIoeuGERL8JHz8-VmXAA&ampcf=1

Once again, for the hundredth time, I refer back to this test...which mirrors my own back to back testing over the years.
I agree, electronic ignition requires less maintenance...but that's where the advantage ends for all but the most serious race type engines.

I quoted both because it applies to both posts.
(to agree with one and not so much the other.):D

The HEI has benefits over a stock spark in more than just performance.
It makes cold starts easier because of the hotter spark and not getting the spark pulled down near as much with high starter loads and a little better fire for situations like too much fuel from overchoking.

Engines tend to run smoother, and have a more complete burn of the available air/fuel mixture.
It adds to drivability, increases fuel economy and is not a waste for anything but racing in my opinion and experience.
And if we think about it, a person could run an E or C core coil with points if they wished and get real close to the same performance.
This means that it's not really the HEI part per se that makes the difference, but the coil spark strength.
(which is exactly the same thing points running drivers that put on a big Accel or other brand performance coil are doing)
So the fact that HEI is really only the control module we are basically just discussing the difference between a stock spark and a more performance oriented spark that does have real world benefits outside of racing.
With this notable difference in a few things outside of racing, I can't agree that there is "zero" difference felt between the two ignition systems.
If that were the case we could call anything but the old style oil filled canister coils that require a voltage limitation to keep from overheating snake oil, and we know for fact that this is not the case.
 
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I quoted both because it applies to both posts.
(to agree with one and not so much the other.):D

The HEI has benefits over a stock spark in more than just performance.
It makes cold starts easier because of the hotter spark and not getting the spark pulled down near as much with high starter loads and a little better fire for situations like too much fuel from overchoking.

Engines tend to run smoother, and have a more complete burn of the available air/fuel mixture.
It adds to drivability, increases fuel economy and is not a waste for anything but racing in my opinion and experience.
And if we think about it, a person could run an E or C core coil with points if they wished and get real close to the same performance.
This means that it's not really the HEI part per se that makes the difference, but the coil spark strength.
(which is exactly the same thing points running drivers that put on a big Accel or other brand performance coil are doing)
So the fact that HEI is really only the control module we are basically just discussing the difference between a stock spark and a more performance oriented spark that does have real world benefits outside of racing.
I could agree with that.
The thing about these threads that always frosts my cupcakes, is the general bad name that points get.
I have run them in everything from daily driver to Top Fuel dragster and have had nothing but success with them.
Hotter coils, CDIs and MSDs are all great things, and I absolutely agree with their benefits. But people confuse the trigger with the bullet in these conversations.
 
I could agree with that.
The thing about these threads that always frosts my cupcakes, is the general bad name that points get.
I have run them in everything from daily driver to Top Fuel dragster and have had nothing but success with them.
Hotter coils, CDIs and MSDs are all great things, and I absolutely agree with their benefits. But people confuse the trigger with the bullet in these conversations.

Exactly, and that is why I mentioned that.
There isn't one thing negative about points besides the maintenance.
Confusing the trigger with the bullet is a great analogy of it.
 
Looks like I need to throw two more in here. Of course I've had points distributors and never had a problem with them or adjusting them. But I usually do this in a case-by-case. If the OP has a 318 2 Barrel meant for the street and is asking whether he had to put points or electronic distributor on I'm no Sherlock Holmes but by deduction I'm saying this person is probably not one who's going to want to adjust points even though they will have the same performance as an electronic distributor. when I go along my clues here I think if someone's asking this question they're probably not someone who's going to want to adjust points? Now as far as trying to squeeze better performance and better starting out of a 2 Barrel 318 for daily driving an occasional spirited I think we're just overthinking it or you guys are. I'm saying just go get a $79 distributor and never look back for the rest of your life. And that's my two more.
 
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