I have devised a very simple homemade tool that anyone can fabricate in minutes that will greatly ease the installation of your new dipstick tube into your engine block. I first cut a 2" piece of .375 I.D. spacer material or pipe, NOT tubing . Then you slice it lengthwise with a dremel cut-off wheel, die grinder cut-o ff, or even a hack saw all the way through on both sides to split it in half, (see pictures). Next , simply attach it around the base of your dipstick tube against the lip...
Our good buddy, @pittsburghracer was kind enough to post this chart, so I thought I would add it here in the How To section so it will be easily found and referred to. And a message to the administrators.
It's so simple and cheap, I don't know why I've never seen it posted before; but after seeing yet another ad looking for the hard-to-find MP throttle bracket, I figured I'd share my secret... Start out with the cheaper than dirt 318 2bbl. bracket. Clamp the mounting ears in a vice. Pound on it with a hammer until the ears are folded over to 90*. Clean it up, paint it and bolt it on your engine. The new mounting position lines up perfectly with the 4bbl. linkage. Even the factory kickdown...
NOTE: Many of the photos differ from the the description, as I was using materials I had on hand.Purchase 2 12x12x40 lamp boxes from U-Haul Assemble one box leaving the top open Use fiber reinforced tape on all edges and along and across the bottom Cut two plywood squares to fit into the 12x12 box (this is to keep the axle studs from piercing through the box) Put one square in the bottom on the box (You could cut a piece of foam and place it in the bottom below the plywood) Place the...
For those of you that want to run a factory 68 340 4-speed cam...I worked with another member here and we sent one of my cams that was custom ground to be a clone of the 68 340 4-speed cam to Ken Heard at Oregon Cams and they measured it so they can duplicate it and now have it available for sale.Here are the Oregon Cam specs/details:#2120221/227 @ .050”, 276/286 adv, .438”/.456” lift, 114 sep Per the 68 Plymouth service manual, the factory specs are:276/284 dur, .444"/.453" lift...
Go to YouTube and watch this video:This video will show you how to disassemble, paint, restore and reassemble this type of differential. It includes, identification, cleaning, axle seal removal, axle restoration, emergency brakes, backing plate restoration and more. It does not include pinion gear restoration. For more info visit my website: [URL="http://www.BarracudaRestoration.com"]www.BarracudaRestoration.com[/URL]
This is how I measure for and correct valve spring height. Very simple process. all you need is a 35 dollar tool. It's called a valve spring micrometer. This is essential for correctly setting up valve spring heights and making sure you have the correct installed height for the correct seat and open pressures. Failure to do this can have catastrophic results. As always, this is how I do it. Thanks for following along.
On this one, I just give some general assembly tips and suggestions regarding bearing clearance and whatnot. It's not really a How To, per say, but you get the idea. Pay attention to where I talk about how I assemble the rear main seal retainer. This is how I've always done it. It leaves little room for leaks in that area. As always, this is my method. Feel free to use it or don't. lol
This is the time honored method by which I lap valves. This is called a "basic" valve job and is primarily used for refreshing the valve faces and seats. Also, it was stressed to me by the old gentleman who taught me how when I was a kid, the importance of being able to see the actual area where the valve seats. I think it's so important, I even disassemble new heads and lap the valves. Yes, while it's true, the modern Serdi machine is the way to go, nevertheless, I will come behind that...
Here is my procedure on how I clean pistons, ring lands and re-ring pistons. This is how I do it. It's worked "for me" better than forty years. I don't use a ring land cleaning tool. I never have. A lot of you don't either, as I am sure you're well off enough to buy new pistons. I've never been fortunate enough to do that with every build, so I "use what I have". This is how I do it.
This is how I replace connecting rod bolts. I actually went against a cardinal rule of mine here, as I always have the rods resized when I replace the rod bolts. Lots of people do not. Since this is a bare bone budget build and the rods were in great shape, I passed on resizing. Everything measured out fine anyway. I barely tapped hard enough to knock the rod bolts out, so no harm was done to the big end. Again, this is my procedure. I don't profess this to be "by the book" and if that's...
This is my method for honing cylinders with a ball hone, otherwise known as a dingleberry hone. This procedure is only recommended for cylinders with minimal wear, as it removes only a very, very small amount of material. Just enough to break the glaze cause by the polish of the rings going up and down in the cylinders and produce a new finish to break in with a new set of rings. Again, this is how "I" do it. I don't profess that this is the perfect way, so if that's what you're after, stop...
Man I wish I knew about stitch weld before I threw a bunch of big $$$ motors out, easy also just takes a few hours.
