Pulled a Holley electric red pump off the shelf to put back in action, thing is it's been sitting for 12yrs... so it's going to need a go through... here we go.
1st flip it and remove the bottom plate screws and plate.
Pull the old gasket off to expose the round rotor plate, brass filter screen and regulator
Pull the old filter out, flip the rotor cap off to expose the rotor vain.
Next remove the rotor. Now... if yours is as old as mine...you won't have to worry about the steel vein plates falling out because they'll be nice rusted.
Once that's out, turn the pump to the side and remove the regulator spring screw, spring, tube. You may need a small pocket flat head to gently push it out, then use the magnet end to pull it. Now if for some reason the screw isn't coming lose with a flat blade, even with pump held gently in a vice, use a small pair of channel locks like in the pic. There is enough shoulder to grab and loosen without stabbing your hand with a large flat blade.
* Note, Adjusting regulator pressure can be done by shimming the spring at the screw. Doing this will increase pressure allowing less opening of the regulator thereby bleeding less back into the intake circuit of the pump. Always use a gauge to verify pressure, too much will push fuel out of the boosters and bowl vents like a fountain. These pumos advertise about 6 psi though 4-7 psi is usually enough for stock to mild sb/bb. By design as back pressure decreases the regulator valve closes allowing full flow.
The bore of the regulator valve and spring may need a little galley brushing to clean up from corrosion.
Clean any debris out of the pump and reassemble in reverse.
New regulator, spring, o ring. Now don't forget the rubber shim 'which goes into the hollow end of metal regulator tube' where it seals the inner outlet. The spring rests against the outside locator end of the regulator tube and finally the screw.
And now the rotor, veins, cap.
4 fingers will hold will hold the veins in the rotor when reinstalling, the rotor has a slot in the bottom that the motors shaft fits in.
Now my rotor cap was rusted on the inside...but like a cam thrust plate...you can just flip it to the clean smooth side.
With your rotor cap in place...next install the new brass screen , gasket and plate and 5 mounting bolts using a 1/4 drive ratchet.
1st flip it and remove the bottom plate screws and plate.
Pull the old gasket off to expose the round rotor plate, brass filter screen and regulator
Pull the old filter out, flip the rotor cap off to expose the rotor vain.
Next remove the rotor. Now... if yours is as old as mine...you won't have to worry about the steel vein plates falling out because they'll be nice rusted.
Once that's out, turn the pump to the side and remove the regulator spring screw, spring, tube. You may need a small pocket flat head to gently push it out, then use the magnet end to pull it. Now if for some reason the screw isn't coming lose with a flat blade, even with pump held gently in a vice, use a small pair of channel locks like in the pic. There is enough shoulder to grab and loosen without stabbing your hand with a large flat blade.
* Note, Adjusting regulator pressure can be done by shimming the spring at the screw. Doing this will increase pressure allowing less opening of the regulator thereby bleeding less back into the intake circuit of the pump. Always use a gauge to verify pressure, too much will push fuel out of the boosters and bowl vents like a fountain. These pumos advertise about 6 psi though 4-7 psi is usually enough for stock to mild sb/bb. By design as back pressure decreases the regulator valve closes allowing full flow.
The bore of the regulator valve and spring may need a little galley brushing to clean up from corrosion.
Clean any debris out of the pump and reassemble in reverse.
New regulator, spring, o ring. Now don't forget the rubber shim 'which goes into the hollow end of metal regulator tube' where it seals the inner outlet. The spring rests against the outside locator end of the regulator tube and finally the screw.
And now the rotor, veins, cap.
4 fingers will hold will hold the veins in the rotor when reinstalling, the rotor has a slot in the bottom that the motors shaft fits in.
Now my rotor cap was rusted on the inside...but like a cam thrust plate...you can just flip it to the clean smooth side.
With your rotor cap in place...next install the new brass screen , gasket and plate and 5 mounting bolts using a 1/4 drive ratchet.
