In this chapter I am going to go through installing the timing chain cover and water pump... In the last chapter I showed you how to prepare the timing chain cover, now we are going to install the timing chain and water pump as they go together...
This is the next step to continue after Sections 1 - 14... If you missed one of them, you can find it here...
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 1: Block Prep
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 2: Cam Bearing Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 3: Install Water Jacket and Oil Galley Plugs
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 4: Pre Flight Inspection After Machine Shop Before Assembly
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 5: Crankshaft Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 6: Installing Rings on Pistons
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7: Install Pistons in Block
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7a (Optional): CC the Engine Cylinder to Find Compression
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 8: Install the Camshaft
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9: Install Camshaft Thrust Plate
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9A (Optional): Timing Chain Options
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 10: Install Timing Chain
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 11: Check Piston-to-Valve Clearance
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 12: Installing the Heads
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-rebuild-a-small-block-part-13-installing-the-valvetrain.442/
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 14: Preparing the Timing Chain Cover
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Hello everyone, it's Krazykuda here to show you how to rebuild a small block... This article is to help any newbies through rebuilding a small block Mopar LA engine, but may have a few tips that some of you seasoned builders may find useful... If you haven't ever built an engine, I will show you what you need to know to do it yourself...
The goal of this series is to show what you can do at home in your own garage... Go at your own pace and ability and then take it to someone knowledgeable for what you are not capable of doing yourself or don't have the proper equipment/tools for...
Keep checking back in from time to time as this is a work in progress and I plan to keep updating it as I build more engines and can show you more variations...
I am going to break this into sections that you can follow along with and make sense to do in 'stages' when you build... Plus you can then jump to the section that you are working on to help keep from sorting through one very long thread to find what part that you are working on when you are doing it....
*************************************************************************
*** Important Note *** Sometimes things may not go right and you will run into a snag/road block... Do not get in a hurry to finish and take short cuts that may compromise your build...
Step back, take a break, and think about it for a while... Or seek help from other experienced people or professionals to overcome the problem... Do it right and don't take any unnecessary chances that may compromise the integrity of your build...
If you don't fix the problem correctly, it may come back to haunt you and cost even more time and money than if you took the time to think about it and research it to fix the problem correctly...
This has been a public service announcement from krazykuda....
*************************************************************************
In the last chapter, we prepared the timing chain cover, now we are going to install the timing chain cover and water pump...
Here we have the timing chain cover ready to go...
If you are building an engine for to go in a 70 and later car, the aluminum water pump comes ready to go right out of the box... Here's one that we just painted...
If you are building an engine for a 69 and earlier car, you will be using the cast iron water pump... They come brand new like this, without any hose nipples...
When installing the gasket on the water pump, make sure to match it up as it's not symmetrical... If the gasket doesn't line up with the bolts and profile of the sealing surface, flip it over... Here's a thread to show why...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/small-block-water-pump-you-gotta-pay-attention.578139/
You have to get your own hose nipples... I like to get proper hose nipples because they have barbs on the end of them which makes for a better seal so the hose won't blow off as easy... I've seen people just get threaded pipe and cut it off to use instead of a proper nipple, but a cut off piece of pipe doesn't have a barb on the end which helps prevent the hose from blowing off under pressure... If the hose blows off you can overheat the engine, be stranded on the road, and possibly damage the engine if it overheats... Not what you want when you are driving around town, or at a car show or cruise... I like to do it right and not take short cuts, build for reliability and durability or don't build... It's not worth the risk to be cheap and not get a quality nipple for your hoses...
Keep in mind that you will need two sets of nipples for your engine when you order them... You will need a 5/8" nipple for the heater hose to the water pump and another 5/8" nipple for the heater hose that goes to the intake manifold, so be sure to order 2 x 5/8" nipples... The heater hose barbs need a 3/8" pipe thread, so you will need to tell the part guy that you need a 5/8" nipple with a 3/8" pipe thread...
Same goes for the nipples for the bypass hose that goes from the water pump to the intake manifold... You will need a nipple for each end of the bypass hose, one for the water pump and the other for the intake manifold... You will need to tell the parts guy that you need a 1" diameter nipple with a 3/4" pipe thread...
So order 2 x 5/8" nipples and 2 x 1" nipples for the bypass for each engine that you build... I ordered mine from Grainger because they have the nipples with the hex on them which can be easily installed with a deep well socket or combination wrench, here's the receipt with the part numbers... I ordered a couple of spares...
Here they are...
Here's the bags for each size showing the Grainger part number...
Here's what they look like, nice and pretty...
Here they are just test fit into the water pump... I wasn't going to use it right away, so I just put them in for the picture... When you put yours in, you should use some type of pipe thread sealant, either teflon tape or pipe dope to seal the threads so they don't leak...
Here they are close up... Nice and petty...
Now the water pumps are ready to go, it's time to start installing the timing chain cover and water pump...
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Here are some notes that I jotted down when we were installing the timing chain cover on a 70 and later engine... Here is the diagram with the bolts numbered...
I randomly assigned numbers to the bolts just to identify them... I didn't have the original factory bolts and was making a list with each bolt and the length that I needed to buy at a local hardware store for my project... You can buy these bolts from common parts store or hardware store stock, they are 3/8" x 16 coarse thread in various lengths...
These are the bolt lengths that go in each of the holes in the diagram... All of the bolts are 3/8" x 16 coarse thread...
Bolts 1 - 4 (the bottom timing chain cover bolts) are common to both the 69 and earlier engines and the 70 and later engines as the only difference in the timing chain covers is the timing marks were rotated 90° to the other side... All of the bosses that the bolts go through are the same depth...
All of the bolts that pass through the water pump will be longer on the 70 and later engine because the water pump is taller in those areas...
See warning below for Bolt #2 length as it's important... Do not to use a bolt longer than 1" length to avoid contacting the bottom of the #1 cylinder which is right behind that bolt...
If you are going to reuse factory or used bolts, make sure to chase the threads with a 3/8" x 16 coarse thread die to clean the threads...
*************************************************************************
I like my Irwin/Hanson tap and die kit... It has served me well... I have had problems with Craftsman taps, so I've switched to Irwin/Hanson and have better success with them...
*************************************************************************
Here is the 68 Plymouth service manual engine torque specs that are found at the end of the engine section (Chapter 9)...
The timing chain cover bolts are referred to as "Chain Case Cover" bolts in the service manual...
Here is the 70 Plymouth service manual engine torque specs that are found at the end of the engine section (Chapter 9)...
The timing chain cover bolts are referred to as "Chain Case Cover" bolts in the service manual...
You will note that the 69 and earlier torque is 30 foot pounds and the 70 and later is 35 foot pounds... I have had some old timing chain covers where the top bolt hole for the water pump may have a chip or crack in that boss and have broken when torqued to the 35 foot pounds... The thread depth is not that deep for that hole, so I always torque my engines to 30 foot pounds... 30 foot pounds works fine in all applications...
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It doesn't matter which variation engine you are building, 69 and earlier, or 70 and later, the timing chain cover and water pump installation is the same... Same gaskets fit both timing chain covers and water pumps and the torques are the same...
My go to sealer is Gaskacinch... It's like rubber cement... I like to goof around and call it Gaska-Snot because it's slippery and stringy like snot when it's wet and sticks to your fingers... When it dries you can roll it into a ball and flick it like a booger... It has the properties of snot...
There are many other sealers that you can use, but I have been using Gaskacinch for decades and have had success with it... What I like about it is it "glues" the gasket to the part so stays in position when you are fitting the parts together... You can get it through Mancini Racing or Summit Racing as it's sold by Edelbrock... It has a fuzzy ball inside the cap that you use to spread it on the gasket...
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69 and earlier style engine...
Take the timing chain cover gasket and put it up to the timing chain cover and line up all the holes to see which side goes toward the timing chain cover... If the holes don't line up, flip it over and see... Once you determine what side of the gasket goes toward the timing chain cover, place the gasket with that face up and apply a coat of Gaskacinch and let it dry for about 15 - 20 minutes... Then put another layer of Gaskacinch on the gasket and let it set up for about 10 - 15 minutes until it gets tacky to the touch...
After the second coat of Gaskacinch gets tacky, now put the timing chain cover on the engine and line it up with all of the bolt holes... I like to use a few bolts to keep the holes lined up until the gasket dries up and will stay on the timing chain cover by itself...
While you are waiting for the gaskets to set up to the timing chain cover and water pump, double check the timing chain marks one last time to make sure the timing chain and gears are properly lined up... Pull the oil slinger back a little to verify the dot on the crankshaft gear is up at the 12 o'clock position and the dot on the cam gear is down at 6 o'clock position...
Also make sure the oiling tab is good and the fuel pump eccentric is good... Be sure to put the oil slinger back on the crank with the bevel of the slinger facing outward... It should look like this...
Once the Gaskacinch is dry enough to hold the gasket to the part by itself, then remove the locating bolts and apply two layers of Gaskacinch as in the previous step... When the second coat of Gaskacinch is tacky, then place the cover on the engine using two long bolts on the top to line up as you press the cover to the engine and then install the 4 lower timing chain cover bolts like this...
Here's a close up of the bottom four bolts...
*************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING ***************
DO NOT USE A BOLT LONGER THAN 1" ON THIS LOWER DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE TIMING CHAIN COVER SHOWN BY THE GREEN ARROW IN THE CIRCLE !!!
It is very close to the cylinder bore and if you use a bolt that is too long it will contact the bottom of the cylinder and may distort/crack/break it when you torque that bolt.. Take a thin phillips head screwdriver and stick it through the bolt hole to check the depth to the cylinder... Then compare it to the bolt that you use in that hole to make sure the bolt will not contact the cylinder when it is fully seated...
ONLY USE A 3/8" x 16 - 1" LONG BOLT IN THAT HOLE, AND NOTHING LONGER!!!
This is the hole shown here by the green arrow and circle...
Closer view...
Here is a thread where someone used a longer bolt and it cracked the block around the bolt hole into the water jacket...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/cracked-block.576475/
Here are the pictures showing the cracked block... The cracks in the front of the block into the water jacket are shown in the red circles with the red arrows...
*************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING ***************
*** Note *** These next pictures are of the 70 and later because I don't have as many step-by-step pictures with the 69 and earlier parts, however the difference in the parts is not as important as showing the steps involved...
Line up the water pump gasket on the water pump to determine what side of the gasket goes toward the water pump... Then place the gasket with that side up and apply a coat of Gaskacinch and let it dry for 15 - 20 minutes... Then apply another coat and let it dry 10 - 15 minutes until the gasket is sticky to the touch...
When installing the gasket on the water pump, make sure to match it up as it's not symmetrical... If the gasket doesn't line up with the bolts and profile of the sealing surface, flip it over... Here's a thread to show why...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/small-block-water-pump-you-gotta-pay-attention.578139/
Once the Gaskacinch is sticky to the touch, then put the gasket onto the water pump... You may want to use a few bolts through the bolt holes to keep it lined up as the Gaskacinch dries... (Bolts not shown...)
When the Gaskacinch is dry enough to keep the gasket stuck to the water pump by itself, then remove the locating bolts and do the two step Gaskacinch application like before...
When the Gaskacinch is tacky, then put the water pump on the engine and timing chain cover and put the bolts in their proper holes...
***** Note ***** We are now back to true 69 and earlier parts...
Then torque all of the bolts to 30 foot pounds... I like to start with the 4 long bolts that go through each side of the water pump and timing chain cover first, then the top water pump bolt and the bottom 2 water pump bolts, then the bottom 4 timing chain cover bolts...
Go back over all of the bolts a second time to make sure none of them lost some torque when tightening the others...
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70 and later style engine...
Match up the timing chain cover gasket to the timing chain... It only fits one way, if the holes in the gasket don't line up properly with the holes in the cover, then flip it over... Pay attention to what side of the gasket goes toward the cover and put that side up on the work bench... Then coat the whole gasket with Gaskacinch and let it dry for about 15 - 20 minutes....
Do the same with the water pump gasket... Test fit it to the water pump to see which side of the gasket goes toward the pump by making sure all of the holes in the gasket match up to the part... Then put the gasket down with that side up on the workbench and swab a layer of Gaskacinch on the water pump gasket while you are waiting for the timing chain gasket to set up...
When installing the gasket on the water pump, make sure to match it up as it's not symmetrical... If the gasket doesn't line up with the bolts and profile of the sealing surface, flip it over... Here's a thread to show why...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/small-block-water-pump-you-gotta-pay-attention.578139/
When you are done applying the Gaskacinch to the water pump gasket, it will be time to add a second coat of Gaskacinch to the timing chain cover gasket... Let it set-up for about 10 - 15 minutes this time until it feels a little sticky... When the Gaskacinch is still sticky, then place the gasket on the timing chain cover and use a few bolts to line up the holes in the gasket to the cover and then let it set-up for about 10 - 15 minutes until it dries to the cover...
Here is what it looks like with the bolts in it to keep if in position while it sets up to the timing chain cover...
While you are waiting for the timing chain gasket to stick to the timing chain cover, now add a second layer of Gaskacinch to the water pump gasket... Let it set for 10 - 15 minutes until the Gaskacinch gets tacky and then place the water pump gasket to the water pump using some bolts to keep it in position until it sticks to the water pump... (I don't show the bolts in it here, but I did use them to keep the gasket in position while the Gaskacinch set-up...)
While you are waiting for the gaskets to set up on the timing chain cover and water pump, double check the timing chain marks one last time to make sure the timing chain and gears are properly lined up... Pull the oil slinger back a little to verify the dot on the crankshaft gear is up at the 12 o'clock position and the dot on the cam gear is down at 6 o'clock position...
Also make sure the oiling tab is good and the fuel pump eccentric is good... Be sure to put the oil slinger back on the crank with the bevel of the slinger facing outward... It should look like this...
After the gasket is stuck to the timing chain cover to where it will stay in place without the bolts, then remove the bolts that were used to keep the gasket in place and repeat the procedure of two coats of Gaskacinch on the other side of the gasket... Don't start the water pump yet...
When the second coat of Gaskacinch is tacky enough, then put the cover onto the block like this... Use the 4 long bolts that go through the water pump to help align the cover as you bring it up to the block... Thread the bottom 4 bolts for the timing chain cover into the block... See the important warning below this next picture before you torque the bolts...
*************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING ***************
DO NOT USE A BOLT LONGER THAN 1" ON THIS LOWER DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE TIMING CHAIN COVER SHOWN BY THE GREEN ARROW IN THE CIRCLE !!!
It is very close to the cylinder bore and if you use a bolt that is too long it will contact the bottom of the cylinder and may distort/crack/break it when you torque that bolt.. Take a thin phillips head screwdriver and stick it through the bolt hole to check the depth to the cylinder... Then compare it to the bolt that you use in that hole to make sure the bolt will not contact the cylinder when it is fully seated...
ONLY USE A 3/8" x 16 - 1" LONG BOLT IN THAT HOLE, AND NOTHING LONGER!!!
This is the hole shown here by the green arrow and circle...
Closer view...
Here is a thread where someone used a longer bolt and it cracked the block around the bolt hole into the water jacket...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/cracked-block.576475/
Here are the pictures showing the cracked block... The cracks in the front of the block into the water jacket are shown in the red circles with the red arrows...
*************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING ***************
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Torque the lower 4 timing chain cover bolts to 30 foot pounds shown here first before installing the water pump...
This bolt gets blocked with the water pump installed so you have to torque it before you put the water pump on... Keep the 4 long water pump bolts in when you torque the bottom 4 bolts to keep the timing chain cover aligned...
Here you can see the bolt blocked by the lower radiator hose outlet with the water pump on...
Here you can see the bolt under the outlet here...
Now that the 4 lower timing chain cover bolts are torqued, apply the 2 coats of Gaskacinch to the water pump gasket...
When installing the gasket on the water pump, make sure to match it up as it's not symmetrical... If the gasket doesn't line up with the bolts and profile of the sealing surface, flip it over... Here's a thread to show why...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/small-block-water-pump-you-gotta-pay-attention.578139/
Put the water pump on the engine when the Gaskacinch gets tacky/sticky and install all of the bolts and torque them to 30 foot pounds...
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Ok, now we have the timing chain cover and water pump installed on our 69 and earlier engine and 70 and later engine...
69 and earlier...
70 and later...
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Next we will move onto the distributor gear, oil pump, and windage tray installation...
This is the next step to continue after Sections 1 - 14... If you missed one of them, you can find it here...
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 1: Block Prep
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 2: Cam Bearing Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 3: Install Water Jacket and Oil Galley Plugs
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 4: Pre Flight Inspection After Machine Shop Before Assembly
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 5: Crankshaft Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 6: Installing Rings on Pistons
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7: Install Pistons in Block
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7a (Optional): CC the Engine Cylinder to Find Compression
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 8: Install the Camshaft
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9: Install Camshaft Thrust Plate
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9A (Optional): Timing Chain Options
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 10: Install Timing Chain
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 11: Check Piston-to-Valve Clearance
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 12: Installing the Heads
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-rebuild-a-small-block-part-13-installing-the-valvetrain.442/
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 14: Preparing the Timing Chain Cover
*************************************************************************
Hello everyone, it's Krazykuda here to show you how to rebuild a small block... This article is to help any newbies through rebuilding a small block Mopar LA engine, but may have a few tips that some of you seasoned builders may find useful... If you haven't ever built an engine, I will show you what you need to know to do it yourself...
The goal of this series is to show what you can do at home in your own garage... Go at your own pace and ability and then take it to someone knowledgeable for what you are not capable of doing yourself or don't have the proper equipment/tools for...
Keep checking back in from time to time as this is a work in progress and I plan to keep updating it as I build more engines and can show you more variations...
I am going to break this into sections that you can follow along with and make sense to do in 'stages' when you build... Plus you can then jump to the section that you are working on to help keep from sorting through one very long thread to find what part that you are working on when you are doing it....
*************************************************************************
*** Important Note *** Sometimes things may not go right and you will run into a snag/road block... Do not get in a hurry to finish and take short cuts that may compromise your build...
Step back, take a break, and think about it for a while... Or seek help from other experienced people or professionals to overcome the problem... Do it right and don't take any unnecessary chances that may compromise the integrity of your build...
If you don't fix the problem correctly, it may come back to haunt you and cost even more time and money than if you took the time to think about it and research it to fix the problem correctly...
This has been a public service announcement from krazykuda....
*************************************************************************
In the last chapter, we prepared the timing chain cover, now we are going to install the timing chain cover and water pump...
Here we have the timing chain cover ready to go...
If you are building an engine for to go in a 70 and later car, the aluminum water pump comes ready to go right out of the box... Here's one that we just painted...
If you are building an engine for a 69 and earlier car, you will be using the cast iron water pump... They come brand new like this, without any hose nipples...
When installing the gasket on the water pump, make sure to match it up as it's not symmetrical... If the gasket doesn't line up with the bolts and profile of the sealing surface, flip it over... Here's a thread to show why...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/small-block-water-pump-you-gotta-pay-attention.578139/
You have to get your own hose nipples... I like to get proper hose nipples because they have barbs on the end of them which makes for a better seal so the hose won't blow off as easy... I've seen people just get threaded pipe and cut it off to use instead of a proper nipple, but a cut off piece of pipe doesn't have a barb on the end which helps prevent the hose from blowing off under pressure... If the hose blows off you can overheat the engine, be stranded on the road, and possibly damage the engine if it overheats... Not what you want when you are driving around town, or at a car show or cruise... I like to do it right and not take short cuts, build for reliability and durability or don't build... It's not worth the risk to be cheap and not get a quality nipple for your hoses...
Keep in mind that you will need two sets of nipples for your engine when you order them... You will need a 5/8" nipple for the heater hose to the water pump and another 5/8" nipple for the heater hose that goes to the intake manifold, so be sure to order 2 x 5/8" nipples... The heater hose barbs need a 3/8" pipe thread, so you will need to tell the part guy that you need a 5/8" nipple with a 3/8" pipe thread...
Same goes for the nipples for the bypass hose that goes from the water pump to the intake manifold... You will need a nipple for each end of the bypass hose, one for the water pump and the other for the intake manifold... You will need to tell the parts guy that you need a 1" diameter nipple with a 3/4" pipe thread...
So order 2 x 5/8" nipples and 2 x 1" nipples for the bypass for each engine that you build... I ordered mine from Grainger because they have the nipples with the hex on them which can be easily installed with a deep well socket or combination wrench, here's the receipt with the part numbers... I ordered a couple of spares...
Here they are...
Here's the bags for each size showing the Grainger part number...
Here's what they look like, nice and pretty...
Here they are just test fit into the water pump... I wasn't going to use it right away, so I just put them in for the picture... When you put yours in, you should use some type of pipe thread sealant, either teflon tape or pipe dope to seal the threads so they don't leak...
Here they are close up... Nice and petty...
Now the water pumps are ready to go, it's time to start installing the timing chain cover and water pump...
*************************************************************************
Here are some notes that I jotted down when we were installing the timing chain cover on a 70 and later engine... Here is the diagram with the bolts numbered...
I randomly assigned numbers to the bolts just to identify them... I didn't have the original factory bolts and was making a list with each bolt and the length that I needed to buy at a local hardware store for my project... You can buy these bolts from common parts store or hardware store stock, they are 3/8" x 16 coarse thread in various lengths...
These are the bolt lengths that go in each of the holes in the diagram... All of the bolts are 3/8" x 16 coarse thread...
Bolts 1 - 4 (the bottom timing chain cover bolts) are common to both the 69 and earlier engines and the 70 and later engines as the only difference in the timing chain covers is the timing marks were rotated 90° to the other side... All of the bosses that the bolts go through are the same depth...
All of the bolts that pass through the water pump will be longer on the 70 and later engine because the water pump is taller in those areas...
See warning below for Bolt #2 length as it's important... Do not to use a bolt longer than 1" length to avoid contacting the bottom of the #1 cylinder which is right behind that bolt...
If you are going to reuse factory or used bolts, make sure to chase the threads with a 3/8" x 16 coarse thread die to clean the threads...
*************************************************************************
I like my Irwin/Hanson tap and die kit... It has served me well... I have had problems with Craftsman taps, so I've switched to Irwin/Hanson and have better success with them...
*************************************************************************
Here is the 68 Plymouth service manual engine torque specs that are found at the end of the engine section (Chapter 9)...
The timing chain cover bolts are referred to as "Chain Case Cover" bolts in the service manual...
Here is the 70 Plymouth service manual engine torque specs that are found at the end of the engine section (Chapter 9)...
The timing chain cover bolts are referred to as "Chain Case Cover" bolts in the service manual...
You will note that the 69 and earlier torque is 30 foot pounds and the 70 and later is 35 foot pounds... I have had some old timing chain covers where the top bolt hole for the water pump may have a chip or crack in that boss and have broken when torqued to the 35 foot pounds... The thread depth is not that deep for that hole, so I always torque my engines to 30 foot pounds... 30 foot pounds works fine in all applications...
*************************************************************************
It doesn't matter which variation engine you are building, 69 and earlier, or 70 and later, the timing chain cover and water pump installation is the same... Same gaskets fit both timing chain covers and water pumps and the torques are the same...
My go to sealer is Gaskacinch... It's like rubber cement... I like to goof around and call it Gaska-Snot because it's slippery and stringy like snot when it's wet and sticks to your fingers... When it dries you can roll it into a ball and flick it like a booger... It has the properties of snot...
There are many other sealers that you can use, but I have been using Gaskacinch for decades and have had success with it... What I like about it is it "glues" the gasket to the part so stays in position when you are fitting the parts together... You can get it through Mancini Racing or Summit Racing as it's sold by Edelbrock... It has a fuzzy ball inside the cap that you use to spread it on the gasket...
*************************************************************************
69 and earlier style engine...
Take the timing chain cover gasket and put it up to the timing chain cover and line up all the holes to see which side goes toward the timing chain cover... If the holes don't line up, flip it over and see... Once you determine what side of the gasket goes toward the timing chain cover, place the gasket with that face up and apply a coat of Gaskacinch and let it dry for about 15 - 20 minutes... Then put another layer of Gaskacinch on the gasket and let it set up for about 10 - 15 minutes until it gets tacky to the touch...
After the second coat of Gaskacinch gets tacky, now put the timing chain cover on the engine and line it up with all of the bolt holes... I like to use a few bolts to keep the holes lined up until the gasket dries up and will stay on the timing chain cover by itself...
While you are waiting for the gaskets to set up to the timing chain cover and water pump, double check the timing chain marks one last time to make sure the timing chain and gears are properly lined up... Pull the oil slinger back a little to verify the dot on the crankshaft gear is up at the 12 o'clock position and the dot on the cam gear is down at 6 o'clock position...
Also make sure the oiling tab is good and the fuel pump eccentric is good... Be sure to put the oil slinger back on the crank with the bevel of the slinger facing outward... It should look like this...
Once the Gaskacinch is dry enough to hold the gasket to the part by itself, then remove the locating bolts and apply two layers of Gaskacinch as in the previous step... When the second coat of Gaskacinch is tacky, then place the cover on the engine using two long bolts on the top to line up as you press the cover to the engine and then install the 4 lower timing chain cover bolts like this...
Here's a close up of the bottom four bolts...
*************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING ***************
DO NOT USE A BOLT LONGER THAN 1" ON THIS LOWER DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE TIMING CHAIN COVER SHOWN BY THE GREEN ARROW IN THE CIRCLE !!!
It is very close to the cylinder bore and if you use a bolt that is too long it will contact the bottom of the cylinder and may distort/crack/break it when you torque that bolt.. Take a thin phillips head screwdriver and stick it through the bolt hole to check the depth to the cylinder... Then compare it to the bolt that you use in that hole to make sure the bolt will not contact the cylinder when it is fully seated...
ONLY USE A 3/8" x 16 - 1" LONG BOLT IN THAT HOLE, AND NOTHING LONGER!!!
This is the hole shown here by the green arrow and circle...
Closer view...
Here is a thread where someone used a longer bolt and it cracked the block around the bolt hole into the water jacket...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/cracked-block.576475/
Here are the pictures showing the cracked block... The cracks in the front of the block into the water jacket are shown in the red circles with the red arrows...
*************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING ***************
*** Note *** These next pictures are of the 70 and later because I don't have as many step-by-step pictures with the 69 and earlier parts, however the difference in the parts is not as important as showing the steps involved...
Line up the water pump gasket on the water pump to determine what side of the gasket goes toward the water pump... Then place the gasket with that side up and apply a coat of Gaskacinch and let it dry for 15 - 20 minutes... Then apply another coat and let it dry 10 - 15 minutes until the gasket is sticky to the touch...
When installing the gasket on the water pump, make sure to match it up as it's not symmetrical... If the gasket doesn't line up with the bolts and profile of the sealing surface, flip it over... Here's a thread to show why...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/small-block-water-pump-you-gotta-pay-attention.578139/
Once the Gaskacinch is sticky to the touch, then put the gasket onto the water pump... You may want to use a few bolts through the bolt holes to keep it lined up as the Gaskacinch dries... (Bolts not shown...)
When the Gaskacinch is dry enough to keep the gasket stuck to the water pump by itself, then remove the locating bolts and do the two step Gaskacinch application like before...
When the Gaskacinch is tacky, then put the water pump on the engine and timing chain cover and put the bolts in their proper holes...
***** Note ***** We are now back to true 69 and earlier parts...
Then torque all of the bolts to 30 foot pounds... I like to start with the 4 long bolts that go through each side of the water pump and timing chain cover first, then the top water pump bolt and the bottom 2 water pump bolts, then the bottom 4 timing chain cover bolts...
Go back over all of the bolts a second time to make sure none of them lost some torque when tightening the others...
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70 and later style engine...
Match up the timing chain cover gasket to the timing chain... It only fits one way, if the holes in the gasket don't line up properly with the holes in the cover, then flip it over... Pay attention to what side of the gasket goes toward the cover and put that side up on the work bench... Then coat the whole gasket with Gaskacinch and let it dry for about 15 - 20 minutes....
Do the same with the water pump gasket... Test fit it to the water pump to see which side of the gasket goes toward the pump by making sure all of the holes in the gasket match up to the part... Then put the gasket down with that side up on the workbench and swab a layer of Gaskacinch on the water pump gasket while you are waiting for the timing chain gasket to set up...
When installing the gasket on the water pump, make sure to match it up as it's not symmetrical... If the gasket doesn't line up with the bolts and profile of the sealing surface, flip it over... Here's a thread to show why...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/small-block-water-pump-you-gotta-pay-attention.578139/
When you are done applying the Gaskacinch to the water pump gasket, it will be time to add a second coat of Gaskacinch to the timing chain cover gasket... Let it set-up for about 10 - 15 minutes this time until it feels a little sticky... When the Gaskacinch is still sticky, then place the gasket on the timing chain cover and use a few bolts to line up the holes in the gasket to the cover and then let it set-up for about 10 - 15 minutes until it dries to the cover...
Here is what it looks like with the bolts in it to keep if in position while it sets up to the timing chain cover...
While you are waiting for the timing chain gasket to stick to the timing chain cover, now add a second layer of Gaskacinch to the water pump gasket... Let it set for 10 - 15 minutes until the Gaskacinch gets tacky and then place the water pump gasket to the water pump using some bolts to keep it in position until it sticks to the water pump... (I don't show the bolts in it here, but I did use them to keep the gasket in position while the Gaskacinch set-up...)
While you are waiting for the gaskets to set up on the timing chain cover and water pump, double check the timing chain marks one last time to make sure the timing chain and gears are properly lined up... Pull the oil slinger back a little to verify the dot on the crankshaft gear is up at the 12 o'clock position and the dot on the cam gear is down at 6 o'clock position...
Also make sure the oiling tab is good and the fuel pump eccentric is good... Be sure to put the oil slinger back on the crank with the bevel of the slinger facing outward... It should look like this...
After the gasket is stuck to the timing chain cover to where it will stay in place without the bolts, then remove the bolts that were used to keep the gasket in place and repeat the procedure of two coats of Gaskacinch on the other side of the gasket... Don't start the water pump yet...
When the second coat of Gaskacinch is tacky enough, then put the cover onto the block like this... Use the 4 long bolts that go through the water pump to help align the cover as you bring it up to the block... Thread the bottom 4 bolts for the timing chain cover into the block... See the important warning below this next picture before you torque the bolts...
*************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING ***************
DO NOT USE A BOLT LONGER THAN 1" ON THIS LOWER DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE TIMING CHAIN COVER SHOWN BY THE GREEN ARROW IN THE CIRCLE !!!
It is very close to the cylinder bore and if you use a bolt that is too long it will contact the bottom of the cylinder and may distort/crack/break it when you torque that bolt.. Take a thin phillips head screwdriver and stick it through the bolt hole to check the depth to the cylinder... Then compare it to the bolt that you use in that hole to make sure the bolt will not contact the cylinder when it is fully seated...
ONLY USE A 3/8" x 16 - 1" LONG BOLT IN THAT HOLE, AND NOTHING LONGER!!!
This is the hole shown here by the green arrow and circle...
Closer view...
Here is a thread where someone used a longer bolt and it cracked the block around the bolt hole into the water jacket...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/cracked-block.576475/
Here are the pictures showing the cracked block... The cracks in the front of the block into the water jacket are shown in the red circles with the red arrows...
*************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING *************** WARNING ***************
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Torque the lower 4 timing chain cover bolts to 30 foot pounds shown here first before installing the water pump...
This bolt gets blocked with the water pump installed so you have to torque it before you put the water pump on... Keep the 4 long water pump bolts in when you torque the bottom 4 bolts to keep the timing chain cover aligned...
Here you can see the bolt blocked by the lower radiator hose outlet with the water pump on...
Here you can see the bolt under the outlet here...
Now that the 4 lower timing chain cover bolts are torqued, apply the 2 coats of Gaskacinch to the water pump gasket...
When installing the gasket on the water pump, make sure to match it up as it's not symmetrical... If the gasket doesn't line up with the bolts and profile of the sealing surface, flip it over... Here's a thread to show why...
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/small-block-water-pump-you-gotta-pay-attention.578139/
Put the water pump on the engine when the Gaskacinch gets tacky/sticky and install all of the bolts and torque them to 30 foot pounds...
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Ok, now we have the timing chain cover and water pump installed on our 69 and earlier engine and 70 and later engine...
69 and earlier...
70 and later...
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Next we will move onto the distributor gear, oil pump, and windage tray installation...
