Now we are going to install the distributor gear, oil pump, and windage tray... In the last chapter, we installed the timing chain cover and water pump...


This is the next step to continue after Sections 1 - 15... If you missed one of them, you can find it here...

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 1: Block Prep

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 2: Cam Bearing Install

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 3: Install Water Jacket and Oil Galley Plugs

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 4: Pre Flight Inspection After Machine Shop Before Assembly

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 5: Crankshaft Install

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 6: Installing Rings on Pistons

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7: Install Pistons in Block

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7a (Optional): CC the Engine Cylinder to Find Compression

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 8: Install the Camshaft

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9: Install Camshaft Thrust Plate

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9A (Optional): Timing Chain Options

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 10: Install Timing Chain

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 11: Check Piston-to-Valve Clearance

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 12: Installing the Heads


https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-rebuild-a-small-block-part-13-installing-the-valvetrain.442/

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 14: Preparing the Timing Chain Cover

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 15: Installing the Timing Chain Cover and Water Pump


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Hello everyone, it's Krazykuda here to show you how to rebuild a small block... This article is to help any newbies through rebuilding a small block Mopar LA engine, but may have a few tips that some of you seasoned builders may find useful... If you haven't ever built an engine, I will show you what you need to know to do it yourself...

The goal of this series is to show what you can do at home in your own garage... Go at your own pace and ability and then take it to someone knowledgeable for what you are not capable of doing yourself or don't have the proper equipment/tools for...

Keep checking back in from time to time as this is a work in progress and I plan to keep updating it as I build more engines and can show you more variations...

I am going to break this into sections that you can follow along with and make sense to do in 'stages' when you build... Plus you can then jump to the section that you are working on to help keep from sorting through one very long thread to find what part that you are working on when you are doing it....


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*** Important Note *** Sometimes things may not go right and you will run into a snag/road block... Do not get in a hurry to finish and take short cuts that may compromise your build...


Step back, take a break, and think about it for a while... Or seek help from other experienced people or professionals to overcome the problem... Do it right and don't take any unnecessary chances that may compromise the integrity of your build...

If you don't fix the problem correctly, it may come back to haunt you and cost even more time and money than if you took the time to think about it and research it to fix the problem correctly...


This has been a public service announcement from krazykuda....


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First I like to put the distributor drive gear in first... This is the gear that is driven off the cam and spins the oil pump and distributor... Since it's easier to access with the intake manifold off, I install it before the intake manifold... You will see why when we get into it...

On the first engine that I built, I tried to put this gear in after the oil pump and intake manifold were installed and the hex at the bottom did not line up properly with the hex in the oil pump and destroyed the oil pump when I bolted the distributor down... The force of tightening the distributor hold down bolt destroyed the mating part in the oil pump... So I like to install the distributor gear first, then put the oil pump on next so I can make sure the hex on the gear is properly lined up and engaged in the hex that drives the oil pump - another lesson that I learned from my mistakes...


Mopar Performance offers a stronger gear that is recommended for high volume oil pumps... It has a thicker shaft that can handle more load... I use it in all of my builds and recommend you use it also...

Here it is in the Mopar Performance packaging...

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Here's a close-up of the label with the part number...

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Here's what it looks like... The gear is pinned to the shaft to keep it from spinning on the shaft under load...

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Here I put both versions side-by-side on a shop towel to show the difference, the Mopar Performance one is on the top, and the factory gear is on the bottom... The difference in them is that the bottom part of the shaft below the taper is thicker/stronger on the improved Mopar Performance one which gives it more strength... If the shaft fails, you loose the function of the oil pump so you want this to be as strong as you can get because you don't want to loose the function of the oil pump...

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Here I show the differences with the arrows...

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A little closer view in the next two pictures...

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I did the same thing here with the new one from the package, the shiny one is the new Mopar Performance one and the black darker one is a stock factory original one... The lighting is not as good so it's a little harder to see, but you can see that the shaft is thicker on the bottom part of the Mopar Performance one than the stock one... The hex on the bottom of the shaft that drives the oil pump is the same size on both parts...


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Here's a close-up of the tapered part on both shafts side-by-side...

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The distributor drive gear goes in the distributor hole in the back of the engine... That's the big hole in on the driver's side on top of the block... There is a brass bushing in the hole that this distributor shaft goes in at the back of the lifter valley below the distributor hole... Verify that the brass bushing is in there in the block, or have one installed if it's missing... The machine shop should have replaced it if you took it to get machined, but sometimes they miss things so you want to verify that it is there...


First make sure that the engine is at TDC, if not put it at TDC because the orientation of the slot in the top of the gear is what sets the #1 spark plug position on the distributor... The camshaft drives/spins this gear which turns both the oil pump and distributor... Two birds with one stone...

Install the gear in the bushing and gently press it down until it just contacts the gear on the back of the camshaft... When you install the distributor gear, you want the slot to point to the #2 cylinder (the one on the front of the right bank/passenger side) when the gear on the distributor shaft first contacts the gear on the back of the camshaft... This is because the gear is a helical gear (curved teeth on the gear) and rotates when engaging with the gear on the camshaft... By pointing the slot toward #2 cylinder when it just contacts the top of the cam gear, it will rotate as it engages the cam gear and end up pointing to the #1 cylinder (the one in the front of the block on the driver's side)... It's a little tricky and you may not have it oriented correctly on the first try, just gently pry it up and try again until you get it... It even takes me more than one try sometimes and I've done it many times... That is why I do this with the intake manifold off - it's easier to pry it back up when you have the manifold off to retry if it doesn't end up in the right position the first time ...


Here's the view from the 71 Plymouth service manual showing how the distributor gear should be oriented when installed...


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Here's the hole at the top of the block that the distributor gear goes into when you first put the distributor gear into the brass bushing... The picture is a little blurry, but this is a good angle and I want to show it for clarity...

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Here is the brass bushing in the white circle...

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Here it is from a different angle... You can see the top of the gear is just below the top of the block...

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Now here we are where the two gears just start contacting each other... You want the slot pointing like this toward the #2 cylinder when the gears begin to mesh so it's in the correct position when both gears are fully engaged...

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Here it is with the slot pointing to #1 cylinder when both gears are fully engaged and the distributor gear is bottomed out... This try is a keeper...

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Once again, close up... Here the gears start to engage...

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Here they are fully engaged... Woo-hoo, you did it!!!

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Now before we turn the engine upside-down, take a distributor - any Mopar SB distributor that you have laying around and put it in the distributor hole and put the distributor hold down bracket and bolt in to keep the distributor in place... This keeps the distributor drive gear that we just installed from falling out when we turn the engine over to work on the bottom...

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Here's a picture of the distributor drive gear and cam gear with the proper fit with the distributor is installed...

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Here is a little closer view...

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Very close view...

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Now turn the engine upside down to install the oil pump...


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Here is a picture showing the distributor drive shaft sticking out of the rear main bearing... Ignore the windage tray for this picture as we haven't installed that yet...

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Here it is with the green arrow and circle around it...

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Get out the taps and dies and clean the threads on the main bearing cap for the oil pump... Use the 3/8" x 16 coarse thread tap to chase the threads in the rear main bearing cap... If you using old bolts, chase the threads with a 3/8" x 16 die...

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There are a few choices for oil pumps...

There is the stock oil pump, we'll call it standard volume, then the high volume oil pump... The high volume oil pump is capable of pumping up to 25% more oil if needed (as the bearings wear and clearances get bigger)... I am a believer in the theory that too much lubrication won't hurt you but not enough will, I always run the high volume oil pump in my engines... I have run them for over 40 years with success... One thing to keep in mind when using the high volume oil pump is they are taller than the stock standard volume pump and you will have to bang on the oil pan with a ball peen hammer a little for some clearance so it will fit... Not a big deal, just takes some banging on the bottom and rear face of the pan, then test fit and repeat as necessary... If you don't want to modify the pan, just go with the standard volume oil pump...

Another choice to make is to use the standard pressure or high pressure spring in the oil pump... It's your choice, I prefer high pressure - it fits with the never too much lubrication theory.... Stock factory pumps have the standard pressure spring which gives about 45 - 55 psi... The high pressure spring increases the pressure to around 65 - 75 psi... Pressure may be a little higher at cold start, it comes down a bit after the engine warms up... One thing that I found out is that all Melling oil pumps have a 72 psi spring in them whether you get their standard volume or high volume pump, so you don't have to change the spring on them if you want high pressure... I didn't know that until after I wrote my how to change the pressure relief spring article as I did use a Melling pump to illustrate the article...


The how-to on how to install the high pressure spring in the oil pump can be found here...


How to Install a High Press Spring in a Small Block Oil Pump


My oil pump of choice is the Melling high volume and it comes with the high pressure 72 psi spring already in it...

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Now we have chosen the oil pump, it's time to get it ready to install...


I recommend using a new oil pickup tube because it may be hard to clean all of the crud and debris out of an old used one... It's worth it to have the piece of mind, so I just buy a new one...

Here's what the pick-up tube looks like...

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I have put some teflon tape on the pipe threads here for best sealing... Wrap the teflon tape in the direction where the tail won't unwrap as you screw it into the pump... Don't worry about setting the flat end of the pickup tube in the proper position, just estimate it and we'll adjust it later when we install the oil pan... Set it a little higher for now so you don't have to back it off when we adjust... Make it so you just tighten it to set it's position later...

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Here is the pick-up tube next to the oil pump...

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Here's a link to the Mancini Racing brand one (as good as a stock or Mopar Performance one)...

Mancini Racing Oil Pickup, 3/8" Pipe


Mancini Racing also offers a Milodon brand one...

Milodon 18650 Oil Pump Pickup


Install the oil pick-up tube into the oil pump before mounting it on the engine... Screw the new pickup tube into the oil pump... Estimate the height of the flat end of the tube so it's little higher than you will need as we will adjust it when we put the oil pan on...


Now get out the Gaskacinch for the oil pump gasket that goes between the oil pump and rear main bearing cap where the pump mounts to...

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Take the oil pump gasket and place it on the rear main to see what side goes toward the rear main bearing cap... Then place the oil pump gasket with that side up and apply a coat of Gaskacinch and give it 15 - 20 minutes to set up... Then swab another layer of Gaskacinch on it and let it set for 10 - 15 minutes until it gets sticky/tacky...


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When the gasket gets tacky, then place it on the rear main and use the two oil pump bolts to hold it in place until the gasket sticks to the rear main...

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I like to make spare oil pump gaskets by buying bulk gasket paper and tracing the original gasket on it and cutting new ones...

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Only Gaskacinch the side that goes to the rear main and leave the side that goes toward the oil pump dry... That way if you remove the pump for any reason you can reuse the gasket...

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Then place the oil pump on the rear main and start the mounting bolts...

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Here is the engine bolt torque page from the 68 Plymouth service manual...

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The oil pump is 3/8" x 16 thread and takes 30 foot pounds of torque...

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Torque both oil pump bolts to 30 foot pounds...

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Now we move onto the windage tray... The 273 and 318, did not come from the factory with a windage tray, I haven't torn down a factory 360 to know about them... However you can use one if you wish... The windage tray keeps the wind from the crankshaft spinning from splashing oil from the oil pan as it spins, especially at higher RPM's... You can add a windage tray to any small block, they do sell windage trays and you will have to find the bolts...



Mancini Racing Oil Windage Tray

I cannot find the windage tray attaching bolt package, it may be discontinued... If anyone knows where to buy one, let me know and I will add it to this article...


The #2 and #4 main bearing caps have special bolts with longer tops to attach a windage tray to... The windage tray uses a 1/4" x 20 thread to attach it to the special windage tray main bearing bolts... If you are using a used set of main bearing cap bolts for a windage tray, chase the threads with a 1/4" x 20 coarse tap... Then chase the windage tray attaching bolts with a 1/4" x 20 coarse thread die...

You can see the special main bearing cap bolts on the #2 and #4 main bearing caps in the next two pictures here...


Here are the bolts on the #2 main bearing cap...


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Here are the bolts on the #4 main bearing cap...

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Place the windage tray on the engine lining up the windage tray mounting holes with the ones on the #2 and #4 main bearing cap bolts... The factory service manuals do not call out a torque for the windage tray attaching bolts, but looking at the 68 Plymouth service manual for a similar 1/4" x 20 coarse thread, it calls out 100 inch pounds... If you can't find the specific torque spec for a bolt, find a similar one in the torque specs and use that torque...

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The factory service manuals do not call out a torque for the windage tray attaching bolts, but looking at the 68 Plymouth service manual for a similar 1/4" x 20 coarse thread, it calls out 100 inch pounds...

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Now the distributor drive gear, oil pump, and windage tray are installed....


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You can skip to the oil pan installation before the intake manifold - it's your engine, you do it whatever order that you prefer...

I prefer to finish the intake manifold before installing the oil pan because if you drop anything (like a nut, bolt, socket, tool, etc..) into the engine you will most likely have to remove the oil pan to find it and get it out... If you already have installed the oil pan, then you will have to remove it, clean off all of the gaskets, buy new gaskets (which are more expensive when purchased separately than when get get the complete engine teardown gasket kit), and re-install the oil pan after you found whatever you dropped into the engine... Time and money wasted...

You could install the oil pan now, but I like to play it safe... Since I am human and we all make mistakes, let's plan on making the mistake of dropping something in the engine and be ready for it when it happens so it's not as painful when it happens... This is why I do the oil pan last...


The next step we will install the intake manifold...