Now we are going to install the intake manifold... In the last chapter, we installed distributor gear, oil pump, and windage tray...
This is the next step to continue after Sections 1 - 17... If you missed one of them, you can find it here...
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 1: Block Prep
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 2: Cam Bearing Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 3: Install Water Jacket and Oil Galley Plugs
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 4: Pre Flight Inspection After Machine Shop Before Assembly
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 5: Crankshaft Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 6: Installing Rings on Pistons
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7: Install Pistons in Block
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7a (Optional): CC the Engine Cylinder to Find Compression
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 8: Install the Camshaft
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9: Install Camshaft Thrust Plate
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9A (Optional): Timing Chain Options
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 10: Install Timing Chain
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 11: Check Piston-to-Valve Clearance
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 12: Installing the Heads
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-rebuild-a-small-block-part-13-installing-the-valvetrain.442/
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 14: Preparing the Timing Chain Cover
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 15: Installing the Timing Chain Cover and Water Pump
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 16: Installing the Distributor Gear, Oil Pump, and Windage Tray
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 17: Installing the Intake Manifold
*************************************************************************
Hello everyone, it's Krazykuda here to show you how to rebuild a small block... This article is to help any newbies through rebuilding a small block Mopar LA engine, but may have a few tips that some of you seasoned builders may find useful... If you haven't ever built an engine, I will show you what you need to know to do it yourself...
The goal of this series is to show what you can do at home in your own garage... Go at your own pace and ability and then take it to someone knowledgeable for what you are not capable of doing yourself or don't have the proper equipment/tools for...
Keep checking back in from time to time as this is a work in progress and I plan to keep updating it as I build more engines and can show you more variations...
I am going to break this into sections that you can follow along with and make sense to do in 'stages' when you build... Plus you can then jump to the section that you are working on to help keep from sorting through one very long thread to find what part that you are working on when you are doing it....
*************************************************************************
*** Important Note *** Sometimes things may not go right and you will run into a snag/road block... Do not get in a hurry to finish and take short cuts that may compromise your build...
Step back, take a break, and think about it for a while... Or seek help from other experienced people or professionals to overcome the problem... Do it right and don't take any unnecessary chances that may compromise the integrity of your build...
If you don't fix the problem correctly, it may come back to haunt you and cost even more time and money than if you took the time to think about it and research it to fix the problem correctly...
This has been a public service announcement from krazykuda....
*************************************************************************
This chapter shows you how to install the oil pan...
First you will need your 5/16" x 18 tap and chase all of the oil pan holes in the block and 2 in the timing chain cover for the oil pan...
I like my Irwin/Hanson tap and die kit...
Here you can see the crud that comes out...
The clean threads will look like this...
Now you will want to adjust the pickup tube... We intentionally left it a little high when we installed the tube into the oil pump so we could adjust it now... This way we just use the oil pan to press it down to the proper level...
I like to put a small amount of clearance between the pan and pick-up tube so the bottom of the pan doesn't restrict any flow... So I tape 2 nickles to the bottom face of the flat at the end of the tube to set the clearance from the bottom of the pick-up tube to the oil pan... I just put it on with a piece of electrical tape like this...
Close up picture...
Now test fit the oil pan to the block... You can see that it doesn't contact the block, press down on the pan or use a rubber hammer to tap it down until you get it to touch on the block without gaskets on this will set the pick-up tube position...
Now the pick-up tube is set, remove the nickles...
*************************************************************************
High volume oil pump modification for the oil pan...
If you decided to use the high volume oil pump, you will need to bang out the pan a little to get more clearance for the taller high volume oil pump housing... Use the ball end of a medium or large ball peen hammer and gradually bang the pan to add a little more clearance for the pump...
You can see my hammer marks in the red circle and arrows where you need to add more clearance to the pan...
Here is a closer view...
The red arrows here show you where you need to bang the pan to get the room for the larger high volume pump... It's not too bad to do, it just takes a little banging and fitting, then test fit until you can get the oil pan to touch the block with no gaps... Bang around the bend and the vertical and horizontal surfaces near that radius...
Now the pan is modified to fit over the high volume oil pump...
*************************************************************************
Identify which gaskets you need for the style oil pan that you are using... There are three types of end gaskets for the small block Mopar...
The long cork gaskets are the same for all engines 273, 318, 340, 360...
The 273, 318, & 340 have interchangeable pans, but two different styles of end gaskets depending on what year pan you are using... The early pan was used from 1964 to 1969 on the 273, 318, & 340 and uses the gaskets on the right side of the picture below... The end gaskets are the same and interchangeable from front to back... The later pan was used from 1970 and up on the 318 & 340 and uses the end gaskets in the middle of the picture below with the flanges on the sides of the gaskets... They will also fit the 273, but weren't put on the 273 from the factory as its last year of production was 1969... The end gaskets on this generation are common and interchangeable from front to rear...
The 360 pan is different and doesn't interchange with the pan from the other 3 engines because it takes a unique end gasket for the rear that goes in the groove around the radius of the rear main bearing cap... The 360 end gaskets are the ones on the left side in the picture below... The front gasket for the 360 oil pan is common with the front gasket of the 318, 340, and 360 from 1970 and later... The timing chain cover is interchangeable for all small blocks so it makes since that they all take the same front gasket...
Here's a complete set for a 70 and later 318 & 340, and will also fit a 273...
Here are the end gaskets for the 70 and later oil pans and are the same for the front and rear of the pan...
These gaskets have one large nipple/tab on one side, and a smaller one on the other side... Here I show the two different size tabs on the gaskets, the big tab is on the left and the small tab is on the right...
Here's a complete set for a 360...
Here's a close-up of the 360 end gaskets, the larger one is for timing chain cover on the front of the pan , and the smaller one goes on a groove in the radius of the rear main bearing cap... The larger rubber gasket is the same as the 70 and later 318 & 340 gasket and goes on the front of the oil pan over the timing chain cover...
Here's a set of gaskets for an early style oil pan from 64 - 69 which has 6 nipples/tabs...
Here's a close up of them, they are the same and interchange from front to rear...
*************************************************************************
The early style oil pan 1964 - 1969...
Here is the separate Fel-Pro gasket set for the early style oil pan...
This is a close up of the part number...
Here is the oil pan showing the holes that the tabs go into...
Grab the RTV, any color that you prefer and put a bead along the side of the gasket with the tabs...
Then smooth it out with your finger, you want a thin coat...
Put the gasket on the oil pan and line up the tabs in the holes in the ends of the oil pan...
Use a pair of pliers and gently pull the tabs through the holes until they seat... Be careful not to pull too hard and break off the tabs...
This is what it looks like when you have all the tabs pulled through...
Repeat for the other side...
Rub along the whole gasket to seat the sealant....
*************************************************************************
Take the long gaskets and lay them on the block to see what side goes toward the block... Then place that side up...
Swab a coat of Gaskacinch along the gaskets, then let it set up for about 15 - 20 minutes... Then put a second coat of Gaskacinch on and let it dry about 10 - 15 minutes until it gest sticky/tacky...
Before putting the long cork gaskets on the oil pan, put a dab of RTV on the ends of the rubber end gaskets like this...
Then smooth it out like this to seal the ends, this will help seal the rubber gasket to the long gasket where it overlaps...
Put the long gaskets onto the oil pan and use a few bolts in the holes to keep the gasket aligned until the Gaskacinch dries a little more and it sticks to the oil pan...
Press the gasket to the pan to get it it to stick so there are no gaps...
When the gasket is stuck to the pan, remove the bolts that you used to keep the holes lined up and apply the two coats of Gaskacinch like before...
Put a bead of RTV on each of the rubber end gaskets like this...
Then smooth out the RTV bead with your finger so it looks like this...
Install the oil pan to the block carefully so you don't knock the gaskets out of position...
Then start some bolts a few threads each at intervals skipping a hole or two around the oil pan to get it lined up... Don't run the bolts down all the way, just get them started, that way the pan can shift a little if one of the bolts doesn't line up...
Next put in the rest of the bolts... Then run them down until they just touch the oil pan to the block without any pressure, start in the middle on each side and work your way out...
After the bolts are seated, then go back over them to snug them until you to see the cork gasket start to compress then move on to the next bolts starting from the center and moving outward again... Do not overtighten the bolts because you can split the long cork gaskets and it will leak... When you start to see the cork gasket squeeze out a little on the side is enough... After you do all the bolts where the gasket squeezes, go over them one more time from the center out to make sure that some of them didn't loosen as you tightened the other bolts...
When everything is tightened, it should look like this...
*************************************************************************
70 and later style oil pan...
Here is a picture of a 70 and later 318 & 340 oil pan... It will also swap onto a 273...
You can see that there are holes on the side of the radius of the pan for the rubber end gasket... One side has a large hole, and the other side has a small hole...
Here's a close up view of the large hole...
Here's a close up view of the small hole...
Here are the gaskets that go on round area at the front and rear of the pan... They are the same gasket... One side has a large tab and the other a small tab that fits through the two holes...
Grab the RTV, any color that you prefer, and put a bead along the inside of the gasket between the flanges...
Here is how much you want to use...
Then take your finger and even it out so it looks like this...
Put the gasket on the pan with the large tab in the large hole, and the small tab in the small hole... Then take a pair of pliers and gently pull on each tab until it pops through the hole and the gasket is properly seated... Be careful not to pull the tabs too hard and break them off...
Here's what it looks like with the large tab seated...
Here's the small tab fully seated...
Here are both rubber end gaskets ready to go...
Place the long gaskets on the block and line them up to see which sides go toward the block, then place them on a work surface with that side up like this...
Then coat each gasket with Gaskacinch and let it set for 15 - 20 minutes... Then swab another coat of Gaskacinch on and let it sit for 10 - 15 minutes until it gets sticky...
While you are waiting for the second coat of Gaskacinch to tack up, place a dab of RTV on the ends of the rubber end gaskets that we already installed on the oil pan like this...
Then smooth out the RTV like this...
When the Gaskacinch on the long cork gaskets gets tacky, install it on the oil pan lining up all of the holes like this... Use some bolts alternately in the holes like in the early style pan above to keep the long gaskets lined up while the gasket sets to the oil pan...
Here the gasket is now stuck to the pan and the alignment bolts are removed...
Do the two step Gaskacinch as above...
Apply a bead of RTV to the inside radius of the two rubber end gaskets like this...
Spread the RTV out like this...
When the Gaskacinch is sticky, then carefully place the oil pan on the engine lining up all of the bolt holes...
Start all of the bolts before you run them down, so the pan can float/adjust if one of the bolt holes is not aligned... Just thread them 3 - 4 threads...
After all of the bolts are started, then run them down until the pan gently touches the engine block... Then go back and snug them up starting in the middle of each side and progressively working your way outward... Just tighten them until the cork gasket starts to squish/squeeze, then move onto the next bolt... After you snug all of the bolts the first time, go back over them again in the same order to make sure some of them didn't loosen when the other bolts were snugged...
This is what you want to see when the gasket starts to squish... Stop when you see it start to bulge...
Notice how it is starting to squish at the arrows... This is what you want, if you keep going you risk splitting the cork gasket and will have to do it over...
This is the most that you want to squish the cork gaskets, they will start to split if you keep tightening them...
*************************************************************************
360 Oil Pan Gasket Install...
The 360 oil pan is the same as the 70 and later pan in the front, but the rear seal is different... The rear seal for the 360 wraps around the radius on the rear main... There is a groove that the seal goes into...
I don't have any step-by-step pictures at the moment, but this is a picture of how it fits into the rear main cap groove...
To install the seal, put a bead of RTV in the rear main cap groove, then smooth it out... Then place the new rubber rear oil pan seal in the groove and gently press it in... Then put the front seal for the timing cover in the oil pan as with the 70 and later pan... Then install the long cork gasket on the pan... Once that is done, apply a bead of RTV on the outside of the rubber rear oil pan seal and install the oil pan...
*************************************************************************
Now the engine is assembled from oil pan to intake, now you just have to install the oil filter adapter and valve covers and paint it...
This is the next step to continue after Sections 1 - 17... If you missed one of them, you can find it here...
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 1: Block Prep
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 2: Cam Bearing Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 3: Install Water Jacket and Oil Galley Plugs
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 4: Pre Flight Inspection After Machine Shop Before Assembly
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 5: Crankshaft Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 6: Installing Rings on Pistons
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7: Install Pistons in Block
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7a (Optional): CC the Engine Cylinder to Find Compression
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 8: Install the Camshaft
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9: Install Camshaft Thrust Plate
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9A (Optional): Timing Chain Options
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 10: Install Timing Chain
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 11: Check Piston-to-Valve Clearance
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 12: Installing the Heads
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-rebuild-a-small-block-part-13-installing-the-valvetrain.442/
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 14: Preparing the Timing Chain Cover
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 15: Installing the Timing Chain Cover and Water Pump
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 16: Installing the Distributor Gear, Oil Pump, and Windage Tray
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 17: Installing the Intake Manifold
*************************************************************************
Hello everyone, it's Krazykuda here to show you how to rebuild a small block... This article is to help any newbies through rebuilding a small block Mopar LA engine, but may have a few tips that some of you seasoned builders may find useful... If you haven't ever built an engine, I will show you what you need to know to do it yourself...
The goal of this series is to show what you can do at home in your own garage... Go at your own pace and ability and then take it to someone knowledgeable for what you are not capable of doing yourself or don't have the proper equipment/tools for...
Keep checking back in from time to time as this is a work in progress and I plan to keep updating it as I build more engines and can show you more variations...
I am going to break this into sections that you can follow along with and make sense to do in 'stages' when you build... Plus you can then jump to the section that you are working on to help keep from sorting through one very long thread to find what part that you are working on when you are doing it....
*************************************************************************
*** Important Note *** Sometimes things may not go right and you will run into a snag/road block... Do not get in a hurry to finish and take short cuts that may compromise your build...
Step back, take a break, and think about it for a while... Or seek help from other experienced people or professionals to overcome the problem... Do it right and don't take any unnecessary chances that may compromise the integrity of your build...
If you don't fix the problem correctly, it may come back to haunt you and cost even more time and money than if you took the time to think about it and research it to fix the problem correctly...
This has been a public service announcement from krazykuda....
*************************************************************************
This chapter shows you how to install the oil pan...
First you will need your 5/16" x 18 tap and chase all of the oil pan holes in the block and 2 in the timing chain cover for the oil pan...
I like my Irwin/Hanson tap and die kit...
Here you can see the crud that comes out...
The clean threads will look like this...
Now you will want to adjust the pickup tube... We intentionally left it a little high when we installed the tube into the oil pump so we could adjust it now... This way we just use the oil pan to press it down to the proper level...
I like to put a small amount of clearance between the pan and pick-up tube so the bottom of the pan doesn't restrict any flow... So I tape 2 nickles to the bottom face of the flat at the end of the tube to set the clearance from the bottom of the pick-up tube to the oil pan... I just put it on with a piece of electrical tape like this...
Close up picture...
Now test fit the oil pan to the block... You can see that it doesn't contact the block, press down on the pan or use a rubber hammer to tap it down until you get it to touch on the block without gaskets on this will set the pick-up tube position...
Now the pick-up tube is set, remove the nickles...
*************************************************************************
High volume oil pump modification for the oil pan...
If you decided to use the high volume oil pump, you will need to bang out the pan a little to get more clearance for the taller high volume oil pump housing... Use the ball end of a medium or large ball peen hammer and gradually bang the pan to add a little more clearance for the pump...
You can see my hammer marks in the red circle and arrows where you need to add more clearance to the pan...
Here is a closer view...
The red arrows here show you where you need to bang the pan to get the room for the larger high volume pump... It's not too bad to do, it just takes a little banging and fitting, then test fit until you can get the oil pan to touch the block with no gaps... Bang around the bend and the vertical and horizontal surfaces near that radius...
Now the pan is modified to fit over the high volume oil pump...
*************************************************************************
Identify which gaskets you need for the style oil pan that you are using... There are three types of end gaskets for the small block Mopar...
The long cork gaskets are the same for all engines 273, 318, 340, 360...
The 273, 318, & 340 have interchangeable pans, but two different styles of end gaskets depending on what year pan you are using... The early pan was used from 1964 to 1969 on the 273, 318, & 340 and uses the gaskets on the right side of the picture below... The end gaskets are the same and interchangeable from front to back... The later pan was used from 1970 and up on the 318 & 340 and uses the end gaskets in the middle of the picture below with the flanges on the sides of the gaskets... They will also fit the 273, but weren't put on the 273 from the factory as its last year of production was 1969... The end gaskets on this generation are common and interchangeable from front to rear...
The 360 pan is different and doesn't interchange with the pan from the other 3 engines because it takes a unique end gasket for the rear that goes in the groove around the radius of the rear main bearing cap... The 360 end gaskets are the ones on the left side in the picture below... The front gasket for the 360 oil pan is common with the front gasket of the 318, 340, and 360 from 1970 and later... The timing chain cover is interchangeable for all small blocks so it makes since that they all take the same front gasket...
Here's a complete set for a 70 and later 318 & 340, and will also fit a 273...
Here are the end gaskets for the 70 and later oil pans and are the same for the front and rear of the pan...
These gaskets have one large nipple/tab on one side, and a smaller one on the other side... Here I show the two different size tabs on the gaskets, the big tab is on the left and the small tab is on the right...
Here's a complete set for a 360...
Here's a close-up of the 360 end gaskets, the larger one is for timing chain cover on the front of the pan , and the smaller one goes on a groove in the radius of the rear main bearing cap... The larger rubber gasket is the same as the 70 and later 318 & 340 gasket and goes on the front of the oil pan over the timing chain cover...
Here's a set of gaskets for an early style oil pan from 64 - 69 which has 6 nipples/tabs...
Here's a close up of them, they are the same and interchange from front to rear...
*************************************************************************
The early style oil pan 1964 - 1969...
Here is the separate Fel-Pro gasket set for the early style oil pan...
This is a close up of the part number...
Here is the oil pan showing the holes that the tabs go into...
Grab the RTV, any color that you prefer and put a bead along the side of the gasket with the tabs...
Then smooth it out with your finger, you want a thin coat...
Put the gasket on the oil pan and line up the tabs in the holes in the ends of the oil pan...
Use a pair of pliers and gently pull the tabs through the holes until they seat... Be careful not to pull too hard and break off the tabs...
This is what it looks like when you have all the tabs pulled through...
Repeat for the other side...
Rub along the whole gasket to seat the sealant....
*************************************************************************
Take the long gaskets and lay them on the block to see what side goes toward the block... Then place that side up...
Swab a coat of Gaskacinch along the gaskets, then let it set up for about 15 - 20 minutes... Then put a second coat of Gaskacinch on and let it dry about 10 - 15 minutes until it gest sticky/tacky...
Before putting the long cork gaskets on the oil pan, put a dab of RTV on the ends of the rubber end gaskets like this...
Then smooth it out like this to seal the ends, this will help seal the rubber gasket to the long gasket where it overlaps...
Put the long gaskets onto the oil pan and use a few bolts in the holes to keep the gasket aligned until the Gaskacinch dries a little more and it sticks to the oil pan...
Press the gasket to the pan to get it it to stick so there are no gaps...
When the gasket is stuck to the pan, remove the bolts that you used to keep the holes lined up and apply the two coats of Gaskacinch like before...
Put a bead of RTV on each of the rubber end gaskets like this...
Then smooth out the RTV bead with your finger so it looks like this...
Install the oil pan to the block carefully so you don't knock the gaskets out of position...
Then start some bolts a few threads each at intervals skipping a hole or two around the oil pan to get it lined up... Don't run the bolts down all the way, just get them started, that way the pan can shift a little if one of the bolts doesn't line up...
Next put in the rest of the bolts... Then run them down until they just touch the oil pan to the block without any pressure, start in the middle on each side and work your way out...
After the bolts are seated, then go back over them to snug them until you to see the cork gasket start to compress then move on to the next bolts starting from the center and moving outward again... Do not overtighten the bolts because you can split the long cork gaskets and it will leak... When you start to see the cork gasket squeeze out a little on the side is enough... After you do all the bolts where the gasket squeezes, go over them one more time from the center out to make sure that some of them didn't loosen as you tightened the other bolts...
When everything is tightened, it should look like this...
*************************************************************************
70 and later style oil pan...
Here is a picture of a 70 and later 318 & 340 oil pan... It will also swap onto a 273...
You can see that there are holes on the side of the radius of the pan for the rubber end gasket... One side has a large hole, and the other side has a small hole...
Here's a close up view of the large hole...
Here's a close up view of the small hole...
Here are the gaskets that go on round area at the front and rear of the pan... They are the same gasket... One side has a large tab and the other a small tab that fits through the two holes...
Grab the RTV, any color that you prefer, and put a bead along the inside of the gasket between the flanges...
Here is how much you want to use...
Then take your finger and even it out so it looks like this...
Put the gasket on the pan with the large tab in the large hole, and the small tab in the small hole... Then take a pair of pliers and gently pull on each tab until it pops through the hole and the gasket is properly seated... Be careful not to pull the tabs too hard and break them off...
Here's what it looks like with the large tab seated...
Here's the small tab fully seated...
Here are both rubber end gaskets ready to go...
Place the long gaskets on the block and line them up to see which sides go toward the block, then place them on a work surface with that side up like this...
Then coat each gasket with Gaskacinch and let it set for 15 - 20 minutes... Then swab another coat of Gaskacinch on and let it sit for 10 - 15 minutes until it gets sticky...
While you are waiting for the second coat of Gaskacinch to tack up, place a dab of RTV on the ends of the rubber end gaskets that we already installed on the oil pan like this...
Then smooth out the RTV like this...
When the Gaskacinch on the long cork gaskets gets tacky, install it on the oil pan lining up all of the holes like this... Use some bolts alternately in the holes like in the early style pan above to keep the long gaskets lined up while the gasket sets to the oil pan...
Here the gasket is now stuck to the pan and the alignment bolts are removed...
Do the two step Gaskacinch as above...
Apply a bead of RTV to the inside radius of the two rubber end gaskets like this...
Spread the RTV out like this...
When the Gaskacinch is sticky, then carefully place the oil pan on the engine lining up all of the bolt holes...
Start all of the bolts before you run them down, so the pan can float/adjust if one of the bolt holes is not aligned... Just thread them 3 - 4 threads...
After all of the bolts are started, then run them down until the pan gently touches the engine block... Then go back and snug them up starting in the middle of each side and progressively working your way outward... Just tighten them until the cork gasket starts to squish/squeeze, then move onto the next bolt... After you snug all of the bolts the first time, go back over them again in the same order to make sure some of them didn't loosen when the other bolts were snugged...
This is what you want to see when the gasket starts to squish... Stop when you see it start to bulge...
Notice how it is starting to squish at the arrows... This is what you want, if you keep going you risk splitting the cork gasket and will have to do it over...
This is the most that you want to squish the cork gaskets, they will start to split if you keep tightening them...
*************************************************************************
360 Oil Pan Gasket Install...
The 360 oil pan is the same as the 70 and later pan in the front, but the rear seal is different... The rear seal for the 360 wraps around the radius on the rear main... There is a groove that the seal goes into...
I don't have any step-by-step pictures at the moment, but this is a picture of how it fits into the rear main cap groove...
To install the seal, put a bead of RTV in the rear main cap groove, then smooth it out... Then place the new rubber rear oil pan seal in the groove and gently press it in... Then put the front seal for the timing cover in the oil pan as with the 70 and later pan... Then install the long cork gasket on the pan... Once that is done, apply a bead of RTV on the outside of the rubber rear oil pan seal and install the oil pan...
*************************************************************************
Now the engine is assembled from oil pan to intake, now you just have to install the oil filter adapter and valve covers and paint it...
