Now we are going to install the valve covers and oil filter adapter... In the last chapter we installed the oil pan...
This is the next step to continue after Sections 1 - 19... If you missed one of them, you can find it here...
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 1: Block Prep
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 2: Cam Bearing Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 3: Install Water Jacket and Oil Galley Plugs
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 4: Pre Flight Inspection After Machine Shop Before Assembly
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 5: Crankshaft Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 6: Installing Rings on Pistons
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7: Install Pistons in Block
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7a (Optional): CC the Engine Cylinder to Find Compression
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 8: Install the Camshaft
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9: Install Camshaft Thrust Plate
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9A (Optional): Timing Chain Options
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 10: Install Timing Chain
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 11: Check Piston-to-Valve Clearance
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 12: Installing the Heads
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-rebuild-a-small-block-part-13-installing-the-valvetrain.442/
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 14: Preparing the Timing Chain Cover
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 15: Installing the Timing Chain Cover and Water Pump
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 16: Installing the Distributor Gear, Oil Pump, and Windage Tray
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 17: Installing the Intake Manifold
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 18: Installing the Oil Pan
*************************************************************************
Hello everyone, it's Krazykuda here to show you how to rebuild a small block... This article is to help any newbies through rebuilding a small block Mopar LA engine, but may have a few tips that some of you seasoned builders may find useful... If you haven't ever built an engine, I will show you what you need to know to do it yourself...
The goal of this series is to show what you can do at home in your own garage... Go at your own pace and ability and then take it to someone knowledgeable for what you are not capable of doing yourself or don't have the proper equipment/tools for...
Keep checking back in from time to time as this is a work in progress and I plan to keep updating it as I build more engines and can show you more variations...
I am going to break this into sections that you can follow along with and make sense to do in 'stages' when you build... Plus you can then jump to the section that you are working on to help keep from sorting through one very long thread to find what part that you are working on when you are doing it....
*************************************************************************
*** Important Note *** Sometimes things may not go right and you will run into a snag/road block... Do not get in a hurry to finish and take short cuts that may compromise your build...
Step back, take a break, and think about it for a while... Or seek help from other experienced people or professionals to overcome the problem... Do it right and don't take any unnecessary chances that may compromise the integrity of your build...
If you don't fix the problem correctly, it may come back to haunt you and cost even more time and money than if you took the time to think about it and research it to fix the problem correctly...
This has been a public service announcement from krazykuda....
*************************************************************************
This chapter shows you how to install the valve covers and oil filter adapter...
I don't have many step by step pictures for the valve covers, but I want to point out a couple things to help you out...
There are two types of gaskets for the valve covers, cork and rubber... The cork are the most common ones that you get in the rebuild gasket kits and are good for only one use... The neoprene rubber gaskets can be used many times...
I prefer the neoprene rubber ones for my engines because they are reusable, and because I had a 67 Barracuda with a 273 4 bbl where I used to have to adjust the valve lash periodically... They were used on the early 273 engines with the solid lifters and adjustable rocker arms... To get the rubber gaskets from the parts store, tell the parts guy that you are working on a 67 273... Otherwise if you ask the parts guy for the rubber gaskets, they won't know what to look up....
When we were building Eddie's engine, we ordered the neoprene rubber gaskets and we had a problem getting the right ones... We ordered the right part number, but the Fel-Pro factory had a problem putting the right parts in the right packages... We kept getting the cork gaskets in the rubber package with the correct rubber part number... It took us 3 tries to get the proper gaskets after having to call Summit Racing to order them and ask them to have someone personally verify that the rubber gaskets were the ones in the package...
Here are both the rubber and cork gaskets packaged under the rubber gasket part number... This is to show you what the two different style gaskets look like... The rubber ones are on the left and the cork are on the right...
Here are the correct rubber ones...
Here are the cork ones, you can see the blue stripes on them...
I like to install both style gaskets dry without any sealer on them, especially the reusable rubber ones, if you use sealer on them you won't be able to reuse them...
The gaskets are easy to install, just line up the bolt holes so they are oriented properly and carefully push the tabs in the notches of the valve cover to keep the gasket in place when you put it on the engine...
Chase all of the holes in the head for the valve covers with a 1/4 - 20 tap to clean out the dirt and debris from the holes... I like my Irwin/Hanson tap and die kit...
Then install the bolts and snug them... There is no torque callout, just be sure to snug them enough to compress the gasket, but not too much and over-squish it...
Here's the valve covers installed from different angles... These are the factory 67 - 68 style with the clips for the spark plug wires on the top near each cylinder... It helps keep the spark plug wires from hitting the exhaust manifolds and burning the wires which can cause a short or misfire...
*************************************************************************
Oil filter adapter
There were two different styles of oil filter adapters available for the small block... One was a simple steel plate that bolted directly to the block, and the other was the 90° adapter made in either cast iron or aluminum...
The flat steel plate bolts to the block and uses a thin paper/cardboard type gasket... I use gaskacinch on the gasket to help it seal... This is one seal that you definitely don't want to leak because it is high pressure oil that it is sealing and if it leaks it will make a big mess and can seize/destroy your engine if too much oil leaks out and your oil pan runs dry, so you want it good and sealed...
Here is the double ended threaded adapter for the oil filter plate... There are two different styles of this adapter, one with an external hex drive and the other has an internal square drive that you use a 3/8" drive ratchet extension to install...
Here is what the external hex drive looks like, the internal drive is the same, but round where the hex is and square in the middle where the 3/8" extension goes...
Here's a side view...
Here's with a tape measure...
One word of caution on the oil filter plates... There are different styles of plates available, make sure you get the proper plate... Here's a screen shot of the Mancini Racing page that I give a link to, this shows two different plates available for the small blocks... The one on the left is for the LA style and the one on the right is for the magnum blocks... Use the proper one for the block that you are building or it won't seal...
Oil Filter Gaskets / Adapters
The oil filter adapter goes on the passenger/right side of the block at the back...
Here is a picture of an oil filter plate and gasket kit with the threaded adapter...
Get the gaskacinch for this, I would not recommend the RTV because if a little piece hardened/dry sealer of it breaks off, it can get in the engine and filter and cause problems, so just use the sticky glue type gaskacinch and be sure to wipe up any excess...
Coat one side of the gasket with gaskacinch and let it dry for about 15 - 20 minutes... Then apply a second coat and let it dry 10 - 15 minutes until it gets sticky... Then place the gasket to the block and do the two coat application for the gaskacinch on the gasket, and wipe away any drips to keep it from getting in the engine, just coat the gasket... Be neat here...
When the second coat of gaskacinch is sticky, put the plate on the engine block and tighten it... I can't find a torque spec for the threaded adapter, but I would recommend trying to get it to 40 - 50 foot pounds... You want it good and tight because it is holding back high pressure oil...
You need to watch out when tightening the threaded adapter because the hex on it is not as deep as a normal bolt and the socket easily can slip off, so you have to concentrate to push the socket all the way down when torquing to keep it from slipping off... I also recommend using a standard wall thickness 1/2" drive 6 point socket and not an impact socket... The thicker wall on the impact socket makes it easier for the socket to slip off the hex when tightening it...
The internal 3/8" drive threaded adapter does not slip off when tightening like the hex drive... Here's what the hex drive looks like...
This plate has one of my mods to it... The normal plate has 4 holes, I drilled 4 more for extra flow...
Here is the internal 3/8" drive threaded adapter...
Here's a close up of the internal square drive...
*************************************************************************
The 90°/right angle oil filter adapter
The 90° adapter was used when there was a problem with clearance of the oil filter with the right side exhaust manifold... This was used on the 68 - 70 340 manifolds and some other applications as well...
There are 3 gaskets for the 90° adapter, make sure you use them all in the correct positions or it will leak... The large base gasket is the same as the oil filter adapter plate, the other two go on the bolt that attaches the 90° adapter to the engine block... The thinner gasket goes under the bolt head, and the thicker gasket goes between the block and the housing at the bottom of the bolt...
There are two styles of gaskets available, one has the cardboard/thick paper for the top gasket that goes under the bolt head, and a thicker cork gasket that goes at the bottom of the bolt between the filter housing and the engine block...
The other style uses a copper gasket for under the bolt head, and a nylon gasket for the one at the bottom of the bolt...
Here's some graphics showing where the gaskets go...
I have highlighted the two gaskets that go on the bolt in red here for better clarity...
Here is the Mopar Performance instruction sheet showing the gasket locations...
Get out the gaskacinch and do the two step process for each side of the large gasket for the outer seal of the housing to the block... Apply a coat and let it sit for 15 - 20 minutes until it dries... Then apply a second coat of gaskacinch and let it sit for 15 - 20 minutes until it is sticky...
Install the gasket to the block and do the two step gaskacinch to the second side of the gasket... When the second coat of gaskacinch gets sticky, put the housing on the block... Do not use any gaskacinch or RTV sealer on the two smaller gaskets that go on the bolt...
Here is a Fel-Pro gasket kit that I found on ebay that comes with the bolt also...
The bolt for the 90° (right angle) adapter is hollow and has holes for oil flow... The one on the left is an aftermarket version and the one on the right is a factory one... This allows oil to flow through the bolt...
Here are some closer pictures of the aftermarket one showing the holes and the hollow shaft to allow oil to flow through it...
Here is the copper gasket that goes on the bolt first, under the bolt head...
Then put the bolt in the housing like this...
Next put this thicker gasket on the bolt under the housing so it seals to the engine block...
When you install the 90° adapter, you need to position/clock it correctly... The filter should point to the rear about 10° below 9 o'clock position... Here are some examples below...
Eddie's 340...
Here are some factory installed ones so you can see the correct orientation...
The 318 from my son's 71 Valiant...
A 68 340...
I can't remember what this one is...
*************************************************************************
There are a few different oil filters that will fit...
There is the long one that will hold a quart of oil... This one is the Ford filter that they used back in the day... It has the same thread and gasket diameter as the original Chrysler factory filter and is interchangeable, but a little longer...
Here's an aftermarket Ford style filter...
Then you have the factory style filter shown here... This is the Mopar Performance filter and it holds 3/4 of a quart of oil... This is the one like the factory used and will give the correct full oil level when you run a stock pan with 5 quarts of oil...
Here's the Mopar Performance filter in it's original packaging...
Here's one that looks a little shorter than the stock filter...
The Ford style filter will work, but may be too long in some applications... The benefit is it is bigger and has more filter surface area and holds a 1/4 quart more of oil... You will have to add the extra 1/4 quart for every oil change if you choose to use this filter with a stock oil pan...
The Mopar filter is the factory size and will be the proper oil level with the stock oil pan and 5 quarts of oil...
The third filter will work if you have really tight clearances and don't have the room for the other ones...
I recommend saving an old filter for when you build an engine to use when you paint the engine... This way you don't get paint on your new filter while covering up the sealing surfaces for the filter that you don't want paint on... If you do get paint on the oil filter plate where the filter goes, you can always remove it with a wire wheel or paint thinner/parts cleaner, but you have to try to keep any dust from getting in the engine...
*************************************************************************
Now that you have built your engine, it's time to paint it...
*************************************************************************
This is the next step to continue after Sections 1 - 19... If you missed one of them, you can find it here...
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 1: Block Prep
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 2: Cam Bearing Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 3: Install Water Jacket and Oil Galley Plugs
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 4: Pre Flight Inspection After Machine Shop Before Assembly
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 5: Crankshaft Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 6: Installing Rings on Pistons
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7: Install Pistons in Block
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7a (Optional): CC the Engine Cylinder to Find Compression
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 8: Install the Camshaft
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9: Install Camshaft Thrust Plate
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9A (Optional): Timing Chain Options
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 10: Install Timing Chain
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 11: Check Piston-to-Valve Clearance
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 12: Installing the Heads
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-rebuild-a-small-block-part-13-installing-the-valvetrain.442/
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 14: Preparing the Timing Chain Cover
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 15: Installing the Timing Chain Cover and Water Pump
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 16: Installing the Distributor Gear, Oil Pump, and Windage Tray
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 17: Installing the Intake Manifold
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 18: Installing the Oil Pan
*************************************************************************
Hello everyone, it's Krazykuda here to show you how to rebuild a small block... This article is to help any newbies through rebuilding a small block Mopar LA engine, but may have a few tips that some of you seasoned builders may find useful... If you haven't ever built an engine, I will show you what you need to know to do it yourself...
The goal of this series is to show what you can do at home in your own garage... Go at your own pace and ability and then take it to someone knowledgeable for what you are not capable of doing yourself or don't have the proper equipment/tools for...
Keep checking back in from time to time as this is a work in progress and I plan to keep updating it as I build more engines and can show you more variations...
I am going to break this into sections that you can follow along with and make sense to do in 'stages' when you build... Plus you can then jump to the section that you are working on to help keep from sorting through one very long thread to find what part that you are working on when you are doing it....
*************************************************************************
*** Important Note *** Sometimes things may not go right and you will run into a snag/road block... Do not get in a hurry to finish and take short cuts that may compromise your build...
Step back, take a break, and think about it for a while... Or seek help from other experienced people or professionals to overcome the problem... Do it right and don't take any unnecessary chances that may compromise the integrity of your build...
If you don't fix the problem correctly, it may come back to haunt you and cost even more time and money than if you took the time to think about it and research it to fix the problem correctly...
This has been a public service announcement from krazykuda....
*************************************************************************
This chapter shows you how to install the valve covers and oil filter adapter...
I don't have many step by step pictures for the valve covers, but I want to point out a couple things to help you out...
There are two types of gaskets for the valve covers, cork and rubber... The cork are the most common ones that you get in the rebuild gasket kits and are good for only one use... The neoprene rubber gaskets can be used many times...
I prefer the neoprene rubber ones for my engines because they are reusable, and because I had a 67 Barracuda with a 273 4 bbl where I used to have to adjust the valve lash periodically... They were used on the early 273 engines with the solid lifters and adjustable rocker arms... To get the rubber gaskets from the parts store, tell the parts guy that you are working on a 67 273... Otherwise if you ask the parts guy for the rubber gaskets, they won't know what to look up....
When we were building Eddie's engine, we ordered the neoprene rubber gaskets and we had a problem getting the right ones... We ordered the right part number, but the Fel-Pro factory had a problem putting the right parts in the right packages... We kept getting the cork gaskets in the rubber package with the correct rubber part number... It took us 3 tries to get the proper gaskets after having to call Summit Racing to order them and ask them to have someone personally verify that the rubber gaskets were the ones in the package...
Here are both the rubber and cork gaskets packaged under the rubber gasket part number... This is to show you what the two different style gaskets look like... The rubber ones are on the left and the cork are on the right...
Here are the correct rubber ones...
Here are the cork ones, you can see the blue stripes on them...
I like to install both style gaskets dry without any sealer on them, especially the reusable rubber ones, if you use sealer on them you won't be able to reuse them...
The gaskets are easy to install, just line up the bolt holes so they are oriented properly and carefully push the tabs in the notches of the valve cover to keep the gasket in place when you put it on the engine...
Chase all of the holes in the head for the valve covers with a 1/4 - 20 tap to clean out the dirt and debris from the holes... I like my Irwin/Hanson tap and die kit...
Then install the bolts and snug them... There is no torque callout, just be sure to snug them enough to compress the gasket, but not too much and over-squish it...
Here's the valve covers installed from different angles... These are the factory 67 - 68 style with the clips for the spark plug wires on the top near each cylinder... It helps keep the spark plug wires from hitting the exhaust manifolds and burning the wires which can cause a short or misfire...
*************************************************************************
Oil filter adapter
There were two different styles of oil filter adapters available for the small block... One was a simple steel plate that bolted directly to the block, and the other was the 90° adapter made in either cast iron or aluminum...
The flat steel plate bolts to the block and uses a thin paper/cardboard type gasket... I use gaskacinch on the gasket to help it seal... This is one seal that you definitely don't want to leak because it is high pressure oil that it is sealing and if it leaks it will make a big mess and can seize/destroy your engine if too much oil leaks out and your oil pan runs dry, so you want it good and sealed...
Here is the double ended threaded adapter for the oil filter plate... There are two different styles of this adapter, one with an external hex drive and the other has an internal square drive that you use a 3/8" drive ratchet extension to install...
Here is what the external hex drive looks like, the internal drive is the same, but round where the hex is and square in the middle where the 3/8" extension goes...
Here's a side view...
Here's with a tape measure...
One word of caution on the oil filter plates... There are different styles of plates available, make sure you get the proper plate... Here's a screen shot of the Mancini Racing page that I give a link to, this shows two different plates available for the small blocks... The one on the left is for the LA style and the one on the right is for the magnum blocks... Use the proper one for the block that you are building or it won't seal...
Oil Filter Gaskets / Adapters
The oil filter adapter goes on the passenger/right side of the block at the back...
Here is a picture of an oil filter plate and gasket kit with the threaded adapter...
Get the gaskacinch for this, I would not recommend the RTV because if a little piece hardened/dry sealer of it breaks off, it can get in the engine and filter and cause problems, so just use the sticky glue type gaskacinch and be sure to wipe up any excess...
Coat one side of the gasket with gaskacinch and let it dry for about 15 - 20 minutes... Then apply a second coat and let it dry 10 - 15 minutes until it gets sticky... Then place the gasket to the block and do the two coat application for the gaskacinch on the gasket, and wipe away any drips to keep it from getting in the engine, just coat the gasket... Be neat here...
When the second coat of gaskacinch is sticky, put the plate on the engine block and tighten it... I can't find a torque spec for the threaded adapter, but I would recommend trying to get it to 40 - 50 foot pounds... You want it good and tight because it is holding back high pressure oil...
You need to watch out when tightening the threaded adapter because the hex on it is not as deep as a normal bolt and the socket easily can slip off, so you have to concentrate to push the socket all the way down when torquing to keep it from slipping off... I also recommend using a standard wall thickness 1/2" drive 6 point socket and not an impact socket... The thicker wall on the impact socket makes it easier for the socket to slip off the hex when tightening it...
The internal 3/8" drive threaded adapter does not slip off when tightening like the hex drive... Here's what the hex drive looks like...
This plate has one of my mods to it... The normal plate has 4 holes, I drilled 4 more for extra flow...
Here is the internal 3/8" drive threaded adapter...
Here's a close up of the internal square drive...
*************************************************************************
The 90°/right angle oil filter adapter
The 90° adapter was used when there was a problem with clearance of the oil filter with the right side exhaust manifold... This was used on the 68 - 70 340 manifolds and some other applications as well...
There are 3 gaskets for the 90° adapter, make sure you use them all in the correct positions or it will leak... The large base gasket is the same as the oil filter adapter plate, the other two go on the bolt that attaches the 90° adapter to the engine block... The thinner gasket goes under the bolt head, and the thicker gasket goes between the block and the housing at the bottom of the bolt...
There are two styles of gaskets available, one has the cardboard/thick paper for the top gasket that goes under the bolt head, and a thicker cork gasket that goes at the bottom of the bolt between the filter housing and the engine block...
The other style uses a copper gasket for under the bolt head, and a nylon gasket for the one at the bottom of the bolt...
Here's some graphics showing where the gaskets go...
I have highlighted the two gaskets that go on the bolt in red here for better clarity...
Here is the Mopar Performance instruction sheet showing the gasket locations...
Get out the gaskacinch and do the two step process for each side of the large gasket for the outer seal of the housing to the block... Apply a coat and let it sit for 15 - 20 minutes until it dries... Then apply a second coat of gaskacinch and let it sit for 15 - 20 minutes until it is sticky...
Install the gasket to the block and do the two step gaskacinch to the second side of the gasket... When the second coat of gaskacinch gets sticky, put the housing on the block... Do not use any gaskacinch or RTV sealer on the two smaller gaskets that go on the bolt...
Here is a Fel-Pro gasket kit that I found on ebay that comes with the bolt also...
The bolt for the 90° (right angle) adapter is hollow and has holes for oil flow... The one on the left is an aftermarket version and the one on the right is a factory one... This allows oil to flow through the bolt...
Here are some closer pictures of the aftermarket one showing the holes and the hollow shaft to allow oil to flow through it...
Here is the copper gasket that goes on the bolt first, under the bolt head...
Then put the bolt in the housing like this...
Next put this thicker gasket on the bolt under the housing so it seals to the engine block...
When you install the 90° adapter, you need to position/clock it correctly... The filter should point to the rear about 10° below 9 o'clock position... Here are some examples below...
Eddie's 340...
Here are some factory installed ones so you can see the correct orientation...
The 318 from my son's 71 Valiant...
A 68 340...
I can't remember what this one is...
*************************************************************************
There are a few different oil filters that will fit...
There is the long one that will hold a quart of oil... This one is the Ford filter that they used back in the day... It has the same thread and gasket diameter as the original Chrysler factory filter and is interchangeable, but a little longer...
Here's an aftermarket Ford style filter...
Then you have the factory style filter shown here... This is the Mopar Performance filter and it holds 3/4 of a quart of oil... This is the one like the factory used and will give the correct full oil level when you run a stock pan with 5 quarts of oil...
Here's the Mopar Performance filter in it's original packaging...
Here's one that looks a little shorter than the stock filter...
The Ford style filter will work, but may be too long in some applications... The benefit is it is bigger and has more filter surface area and holds a 1/4 quart more of oil... You will have to add the extra 1/4 quart for every oil change if you choose to use this filter with a stock oil pan...
The Mopar filter is the factory size and will be the proper oil level with the stock oil pan and 5 quarts of oil...
The third filter will work if you have really tight clearances and don't have the room for the other ones...
I recommend saving an old filter for when you build an engine to use when you paint the engine... This way you don't get paint on your new filter while covering up the sealing surfaces for the filter that you don't want paint on... If you do get paint on the oil filter plate where the filter goes, you can always remove it with a wire wheel or paint thinner/parts cleaner, but you have to try to keep any dust from getting in the engine...
*************************************************************************
Now that you have built your engine, it's time to paint it...
*************************************************************************
