K frame refinishing and rebuild advice

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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Im going to sandblast my k frame for the cuda, then primer and "paint" it. Im trying to save as much dough as possible and do what I can instead of handing it all over to the resto shop. Any ideas as for the "paint"?? I dont have a paint gun or the dough to get one, what are the options out there for paint, should I brush on or rattle can? The under side of the car is being painted black, I am not going body color, so I am looking for something black.

Thanks
4spdragtop
 
POR-15 if you sand blast it real well to remove ny grease or grime. Just allow about a week for dry time. If you blast or chemically clean the inside you can use it there too. Tape over all the holes and poor a pint or so in it and move the K-member around to get it spread out all over then open the lowest 2 holes to drain the excess. Next choice would be something like Eastwoods 2 part Ceramic Chassis black.
 
I did POR to mine since I had some left over. It's pretty tough stuff, but not exactly on the cheap side. I like the idea for pouring it inside and letting it roll around though, wish I would have had the space for that. I just jammed a brush in the best I could.
 
This is what i used steve Hi temp engine paint gloss black.Think about it under that killer 340 you will have it gets hot most paint fades away and is not to friendly with oil ,gas.Mine is still shinny and no pealing.Infact anything black on my car I used engine paint,Canadian tire spray bomb.
 
It will be sandblasted totally clean. I was up at the resto shop today and brought it home to clean and paint. Is the por a brush on, if so does it come out smooth? I like the idea of sloshing it around inside.

Snake that was another option was the hi heat rattle can, but I would end up going thru about 6 or 7 cans and that starts to add up.
 
I brushed on black Rustoleum hammered paint. It's tough as nails, glossy so that it cleans easily and looks good to boot. I will say that it is not real black, but more of a gray-black color.
C
 
4spdragtop said:
It will be sandblasted totally clean. I was up at the resto shop today and brought it home to clean and paint. Is the por a brush on, if so does it come out smooth? I like the idea of sloshing it around inside.

Snake that was another option was the hi heat rattle can, but I would end up going thru about 6 or 7 cans and that starts to add up.
Click to expand...

I only used 2 cans on k frame.20 bucks.
 
Yeah, you can brush on POR if you want, that's what I did. They have started to make it in aerosol cans too I believe, but the brush on is the most common. It levels out okay for me, but I think a lot of that may have to do with prep work. Admittedly I didn't do as much to mine, just a wire wheel on a drill and then a wipe down with thinner before painting. A full sandblast would probably give a nice finish. I always have my black engine enamel as a standby though, lol. I've painted all sorts of stuff with that and it has held up pretty well.
 
We actually have a marine place in town here that is listed as a distributor. That $hit aint cheap!! Im gonna drop by and see if they have aerosol and how much. If too muchee then its the gloss blk high heat.
Thanks!!
 
chassis black, most good auto parts stores have it.
i just used plain ole rustoleum on mine, seems to hold up just fine.
 
On my front end i used some etch primer and some spray on paint. cleaned everything up real nice in the bead blast cabinet. Looked good but i got allitle brake fluid on it and the paint wrinkled up and got soft.

On my rear end i did a quicky cleaning job with dish soap (i had no degreaser) and then quicky wire wheeled it and brushed on some rustoleum enamel nice and thick. I got some brake fluid on it and it dident wrinkle and ruin the paint on me.

Granted the spray can enamel looked nicer but the brush on rustoleom job seems alot stronger. The best part is i bought a small can of it and ive done 2 rear ends and there is still more than half a can left! Also ive personaly never used the POR-15 stuff but ive heard nothing but good things about it.

heres the rears ive painted:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v221/sirdan/IMG_1093-1.jpg

This one has lots of rust pitting in it btw
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v221/sirdan/011.jpg
 
Por 15 seems to smooth out really good even using a brush...I just painted all my control arms, spindles and lower control arms and not a brush mark or run anywhere...I droppes a lower control arm on the concrete from 4 feet up and didnt even scratch it...tough stuff here....but like others said its $30 plus for a pint....but it goes a long way...I completely covered the floor of my dart from firewall to rear seat area...plus all the suspension parts with a little left over.
I plan on doing the k member and other stuff too with it even if I have to buy more...oh and follow directions to a t....trust me...if you get a little in the rim and put the cap back on you are not getting the lid off....:-D
controlwa.jpg
 
Its to bad you or maybe you did check on powder coat I had the one for my runner done and I'm going to do the same for my Valiant.
$60. blasted and coated semigloss and that included the backing plates.

road runner 590 (Medium).jpg
 
69hemibeep said:
Its to bad you or maybe you did check on powder coat I had the one for my runner done and I'm going to do the same for my Valiant.
$60. blasted and coated semigloss and that included the backing plates.
Click to expand...

$60 sounds like a good deal for the blasting and the powder coat. I figured the $100-$150 would cover my lca's uca's, sway bar etc. What did you do with the upper and lwr control arms? Were they powdercoated or painted?

Thanks
 
Snake said:
is it just me are thoes inner tie rods up side down?
Click to expand...

I think they are fine, its for a road runner, if I remember correctly my 69 sport satellite was the same. Mine for the cuda point front to back as opposed to up and down.
 
now you guys are making me want to do mine. It needs to get done I was just pushing it off for a whaile, but after seeing they are comong out I wanna do mine.
 
that looks really good there is a thing of beauty. It's almost not worth covering up with a motor
 
Snake said:
is it just me are thoes inner tie rods up side down?
Click to expand...
Are A-bodies up side down or B-bodies LOL. No they are correct for a B-body. The cam bolts were changed to black phosphate before it went in Zinc is wrong :-D
 
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