Big Block Engine Mounting Question

Whats Better


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67valiant 100

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Whats better: Schumacher big block engine mounting kit for /6 k-frame or a Mopar Direct Connection big block spool mount k-frame? Any problems with one, the other, or both with 413 4 speed drive train? I have a chance at getting a Direct Connection k-frame. Voice your opinions:D
 
I actually much prefer option #3, a motor plate. Super simple and reliable.
 
I actually much prefer option #3, a motor plate. Super simple and reliable.

If you're doing a race car. But if its a street driven car, a motor plate is not the best option.

I'd go for the Schumacher kit. But I'm biased, being that My dad and I are good friends with Micheal.

I love my kit, fits just perfect.
 
Honestly I dont see an advantage, or disadvantage, either way. It all comes down to what you have to work with and cost. If you have the slant k-member and and its cheaper than buying a bb k-frame and mounts Id just go with the schumacher mounts.
 
Nothing wrong with a motor plate.You could use angle iron with a heavy rubber between the frame and the angle iron. Always run at least a rubber tranny mount.I drove a 67 barracuda with a plate with the mods stated above and she drove on the street like a dream.Was not harsh at all and very xost effective.
 
I used the DC K-frame w/their solid mounts back in the day. Had no problems at all. Mildly built 400 in a 72 Demon.
 
Can you still find the direct connection pieces? The Schumacher stuff is readily available NOW. That would make my decision.
 
I agree that for a racing application the motor plate makes alot of sense but for the value since you have the K member, and I assume this is a street car, I would go with the Schumacher conversion kit.
 
Build your own DC k-member is the most cost-effective solution and uses factory mount brackets. You need to be able to weld and follow instructions (but the Schumacher mounts also require following instructions and cutting). I've got no issue with Schumacher, but I'm not spending that kind of money on mounts. I'd make my own first...........
 
Mr. Lusk, I have to agree. I am using the Schumacher, but the only reason is because the kit came with the car when i bought it. It was a small block kit, but Schumacher is swapping it out for a big block kit. If I had to come out of pocket, I would have done something cheaper than Schumacher.
 
On a 70 Duster I did /6 to 440 I used the Schmacher. The only real mod I had to make was grinding out a small area on the k frame to make the high vol oil pump fit.
 
I used a DC K-frame for my 440 in my 71 Duster and had great results. I got it for $90 and back then Schumacher wasn't available for that application. For the 500in 440 in the 65 Barracuda I'll be using the Schumacher set up. Jim lusk is correct though; if you have the tools you can easily modify a K-frame and make it even stronger than a DC. However, if you found a deal on a DC, go ahead and save some time and effort.
 
Im using shumacher only because I gained the mounts for free when I bought a fibreglass front clip for my Dart.

Otherwise I would have just built a dc big blk k member.

You need the 73 up k frame with spool mounts for it.
 
i used the schumaker kit its pretty simple and straight foward the only work is doing some grinding and drilling but it bolts in like factory im very happy with the fit of everything so far. 383 in a 76 dart sport
 
I like the Schumacher kits. The only cutting I had to do on a 70 and a 71 was clearance for the oil pump. You do not have to do any welding, unless you want to support that area better. The engines fit real nice, no playing around to see if everything lines up.
 
I like the Schumacher kits. The only cutting I had to do on a 70 and a 71 was clearance for the oil pump. You do not have to do any welding, unless you want to support that area better. The engines fit real nice, no playing around to see if everything lines up.


This is good to know. Im puttig a 400 in a 70 Dart so very similar. What motor did you install?
 
I like the Schumacher kits. The only cutting I had to do on a 70 and a 71 was clearance for the oil pump. You do not have to do any welding, unless you want to support that area better. The engines fit real nice, no playing around to see if everything lines up.


I agree.

I got their full kit for retrofitting my 383, including engine mounts, torque strap and Tri-Y headers.

Couldn't be happier.

My Dart GT had been powered by a 273.

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If street driven I'd lean to Direct Connection K frame. You can use the big bolt pattern 73 up disc brakes with factory sway bar setup.
 
I agree.

I got their full kit for retrofitting my 383, including engine mounts, torque strap and Tri-Y headers.

Couldn't be happier.

My Dart GT had been powered by a 273.

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The Shumacher puts the motor in it's stock location. Id highly reccomend them for the street. If you want less flex get the locking ones or chain the motor down on the drivers side.
 
Thats pretty right there!

Im going for a wilder approach.8)
 
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