Help Me Find 71 Dart Head Lights!

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2010RamTruck

Arkham Asylum Debate Team
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:-DTrying to find replacement 7" headlights for my 71 Dart, nothing fancy. Everything on the internet and Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. is all 5" stuff and I need the bigger 7". Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
 
i got them right at advance auto,.. pep boys and auto zone even had the 7" lights for my dart. i'm sure any of those places can get them for ya. how about napa??
 
Thanks Joe. Do you happen to have a brand and part number so I can be armed when I go in? The guy at Autozone looked them up on his computer and I saw the screen and sure enough they were 5". Thanks
 
Hemi, I bought a pair from YearOne which are halogen but look like the original 7 inch ones. I don't recall the price but they're great after dark; really light up the road.
 
these are the exact ones i put in my dart. i like them. brite white light and seems to go curb to curb very well. almost positive that was the number on them. got them right off the shelf at advanced i think it was. they only stocked like 3 of them though so maybe when you were there they were just sold out... saw them at pepboys also but they only had one left which is why i went to advanced.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-H6024XV-XtraVision-Performance-Headlight/dp/B000C18Q44"]Amazon.com: Sylvania H6024XV XtraVision 65-Watt High Performance Halogen Headlight: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51AopkTgNbL.@@AMEPARAM@@51AopkTgNbL[/ame]
 
http://www.sylvaniaautocatalog.com/...hId=69&ProductNumber=H6024 XV&PartNo= XV, XV



yea thats it... 7"

fig104.gif
 
I Sylvania halogen at wally world. I don't know if they still carry them or not but a nice upgrade over stock headlamps for sure.
 
Thanks again to everyone who replied. I've ordered them from globalparts on ebay and they are on their way.
 
Sylvania's headlamps are junk. The ones you want are GE Night Hawk H6024NH; they're the only 7" round sealed beams worth messing with. More detail here or much more detail here. Also see here for info on the fancy/costly upgrade options and lamp aiming info (very important).
 
The ones I got off ebay from globalparts are GE H6024(2D1). They might not be as effective as the Night Hawk you suggest but I think these will be adequate. Thanks Slantsixdan for the recommendation.
 
Thanks Joe. Do you happen to have a brand and part number so I can be armed when I go in? The guy at Autozone looked them up on his computer and I saw the screen and sure enough they were 5". Thanks

I work For PepBoys and your right, When you look up the lights in the electronic catalogs it shows a 5" light. It's a catalog error in Sylvania's book OR who ever creates the catalogs for Pep Boys, Advance and the like.

H6024 is correct as Joe posted. I'd try the H6024ST Silver star lights. Supposedly much whiter in color.
 
H6024 is correct as Joe posted. I'd try the H6024ST Silver star lights. Supposedly much whiter in color.

"Whiter" light does not help you see better (and the way it's achieved in all the "whiter" sealed beams and bulbs, with blue inner glass, seriously reduces the usable output of the headlamp). MORE light, properly focused, is what you need to see well. All Sylvania and Wagner sealed beams are poorly-focused junk made on decrepit tooling that should have been scrapped long ago. The only sealed beams worth buying are the GE Night Hawks.
 
"Whiter" light does not help you see better (and the way it's achieved in all the "whiter" sealed beams and bulbs, with blue inner glass, seriously reduces the usable output of the headlamp). MORE light, properly focused, is what you need to see well. All Sylvania and Wagner sealed beams are poorly-focused junk made on decrepit tooling that should have been scrapped long ago. The only sealed beams worth buying are the GE Night Hawks.

Dan:
So, if i buy the nighthawks do i need to put in relays if i use them? How do i wire them if so?
You seem to be the go to guy when it comes to headlights.
How about factory wiring issues when it comes to aftermarket headlights? Maybe 100w high beams.
I'm thinking of upgrading to good lights on my '90 Dodge pickup (Rectangular) and my '69 Valiant (7" round).
What am i in for?
Should i just throw in nighthawk sealed beams and forget it?
Sorry for hijacking this thread, i just thought these were a few concerns we all might have.
Tom.
 
Dan:
So, if i buy the nighthawks do i need to put in relays

Need to? No, because they're about the same wattage as the original-equipment headlamps. Want to? Yes, you want to put in relays even if you're using completely stock standard ordinary headlamps. See here for detailed explanation and here for an example A-body installation, but in a nutshell:

•Putting in headlight relays takes the workload off the headlight and high/low beam switches, since they're now powering relays instead of filaments, and relays take only a tiny amount of current to operate. It also greatly reduces the current load through the ammeter. So that's benefit number one.

•Putting in relays brings full power to whatever lamps you install, which greatly increases their intensity—light output is exponential to the power 3.4 with voltage change; 5% voltage drop gives 16% less light and 10% voltage drop gives 30% less light—and full power also makes them burn with a brighter white rather than a dimmer brown light color. Those "extra white/whiter light" bulbs and sealed beams just try to cover up the dim brown light by filtering it thru blue glass. Pfft. Wrong!

How about factory wiring issues when it comes to aftermarket headlights? Maybe 100w high beams.

Don't pick lamps by wattage. Wattage is how much electricity is going in the back of the lamp. That's not what lets you see. What lets you see is light coming out the front of the lamp, measured in lumens (total amount of light within the beam) and candela or lux at specific points (focus, formation, and intensity distribution of the beam). We do not talk about "candlepower", and those "million candlepower" lanterns you can buy for $20 at Wal*Mart don't produce a million of anything. Also don't pick lamps by breathless hype used to promote them; most of what's marketed as an "upgrade" is at best no better than a standard light, and much of it is not even minimally adequate for 25 mph, let alone normal road speeds.

You seem to be the go to guy when it comes to headlights.

That's me. I am not the only source for good lighting equipment (though that's the only kind I sell), and I do not have commercial discussions on the board, so if you would like to come to me for headlights or equipment, please contact me privately.

For more info, see previous threads here, here, and here.
 
What about these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-H6...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

· 50% more powerful beam on low beam and a 25% more powerful beam on high beam than standard halogen sealed beam headlamps



· Advanced optics provides a more uniform, controlled, precisely focused beams resulting in brighter and even illumination on the road



· Greater range of vision for the driver (high-beam range of an additional quarter mile), improving driver safety and reducing eye strain and fatigue



· 100% Water and Dust resistant



· Replaceable H4 halogen bulb that can be easily and economically changed



· Fits standard 6014, H6024 sealed beam socket - just plug and play



Top Quality H4 60/55W bulb is included with lights!!



You can upgrade H4 bulbs to following:

Ultra Blue 60/55W Add $4.00

Ultra Blue 100/55W Add $6.00

Ultra Blue 100/90W Add $8.00

WHITE 100/55W Add $4.00

WHITE 100/90W Add $6.00
 
Need to? No, because they're about the same wattage as the original-equipment headlamps. Want to? Yes, you want to put in relays even if you're using completely stock standard ordinary headlamps. See here for detailed explanation and here for an example A-body installation, but in a nutshell:

•Putting in headlight relays takes the workload off the headlight and high/low beam switches, since they're now powering relays instead of filaments, and relays take only a tiny amount of current to operate. It also greatly reduces the current load through the ammeter. So that's benefit number one.

•Putting in relays brings full power to whatever lamps you install, which greatly increases their intensity—light output is exponential to the power 3.4 with voltage change; 5% voltage drop gives 16% less light and 10% voltage drop gives 30% less light—and full power also makes them burn with a brighter white rather than a dimmer brown light color. Those "extra white/whiter light" bulbs and sealed beams just try to cover up the dim brown light by filtering it thru blue glass. Pfft. Wrong!



Don't pick lamps by wattage. Wattage is how much electricity is going in the back of the lamp. That's not what lets you see. What lets you see is light coming out the front of the lamp, measured in lumens (total amount of light within the beam) and candela or lux at specific points (focus, formation, and intensity distribution of the beam). We do not talk about "candlepower", and those "million candlepower" lanterns you can buy for $20 at Wal*Mart don't produce a million of anything. Also don't pick lamps by breathless hype used to promote them; most of what's marketed as an "upgrade" is at best no better than a standard light, and much of it is not even minimally adequate for 25 mph, let alone normal road speeds.



That's me. I am not the only source for good lighting equipment (though that's the only kind I sell), and I do not have commercial discussions on the board, so if you would like to come to me for headlights or equipment, please contact me privately.

For more info, see previous threads here, here, and here.

Thanks for your input Dan, you have been most helpful in shedding "light" on this topic.
 
"....and those "million candlepower" lanterns you can buy for $20 at Wal*Mart don't produce a million of anything...."

CRAP!!! RIPPED OFF BY WALLY MART, AGAIN!!!!!!!!!
 
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