New Sm Block Milodon stock height, hi capacity, street, pro touring, road race pan!!!

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Just installed this pan on my stroker, with the motor in the car and TTIs. Not an easy fit, but I am amazed that the pan clears everything and has stock ground clearance. Milodon clearly spent some time on this piece. It also seems to fit much tighter around the front and rear seals than previous pans. Another high quality part available for our Mopars.
 
with out a dout this is a very nice pan.and it looks a lot like the old dirt track pans we ran. BUT they are a pain in the *** to clean after a blown motor..hope this never happens to you....Artie
 
Just installed this pan on my stroker, with the motor in the car and TTIs. Not an easy fit, but I am amazed that the pan clears everything and has stock ground clearance. Milodon clearly spent some time on this piece. It also seems to fit much tighter around the front and rear seals than previous pans. Another high quality part available for our Mopars.

Which K-member are you running?

Did you install the motor from the top?

Did you intall the motor without the trans hooked up?
 
I got like $6 invested in that. Does it look sort of familar to you?

Notice what the hose connectors are?

Does this explain why I couldn't find a by-pass hose for my car the other day?
You are so killing my wallet.
 
Steve - did you read my response...? Car is a done car, so this is a pan retrofit. K frame is a 68-72 piece. Trans is in the car, but, since I am doing a 4 speed swap, the bell and trans are in, without the clutch or flywheel. I've done pans in the car before, and usually if its an auto, it has to be removed to make it happen.
 
Steve - did you read my response...? Car is a done car, so this is a pan retrofit. K frame is a 68-72 piece. Trans is in the car, but, since I am doing a 4 speed swap, the bell and trans are in, without the clutch or flywheel. I've done pans in the car before, and usually if its an auto, it has to be removed to make it happen.

I'm sorry Pete. I glanced right by the motor already being in the car. Wasn't even thinking about people putting it in with the motor already in the car. Didn't register with me. My bad.

So that is very promising for those retrofitting.

I commend you for the patience with that install. With the wide sump and headers some of those pan bolts much have been tough.
 
Steve - did you read my response...? Car is a done car, so this is a pan retrofit. K frame is a 68-72 piece. Trans is in the car, but, since I am doing a 4 speed swap, the bell and trans are in, without the clutch or flywheel. I've done pans in the car before, and usually if its an auto, it has to be removed to make it happen.

Any pictures of the install process or finished install?
 
Install pictures of the new Milodon #31590 in a 73-76 A-body spool type K-member. The 360 pan, #31595 will be the same.

This motor has the new Milodon road race pan that is actually about 1/4" shorter than stock for the ultimate ground clearance. This is the first time someone has installed a motor with the Small Blokc Milodon pan all the way with the 73-76 style K-member.

Can't say enough about fellow CPW club member and neighbor Troy Bray who made this all come together. Troy and his brother Rob helped put this motor in today. And Troy has steered me through this whole motor project. He actually did the head work on it.
 

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This 73-76 K-member configuration is the closest fitting situation by far. The E/B body and 67-72 A body k-members have much more room than this..

With the 73-76 A-body K-member you need to install the motor without the trans attached to it. And you need to come straight down with the install. If you have a manual trans with the input shaft sticking out, that will probably get in the way. ARengineering tried to install this oil pan with a A-body 73-76 K-member with a manual trans still in the car and the input shaft was in the way.

If you have the 67-72 A-body K-member you probably could install the motor and trans together. Might need to jack the front end up to get angle with the motor-trans together.

B and E body installs should go like normal.
 

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Pictures of how precision fit the oil pan is with thi 73-76 A-body K-member. Threading a needle with the design here.

The 67-72 A-body K-member that GmachinedartGT installed his Milodon #31595 pro-touring/road race pan has more room that than the later K-member.

Also 66-72 B-body and 70-74 E-body will have plenty of room for this pan.
 

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Check this out for ground clearance!! Yes there is a pan behind that K-member. Actually 1/4" MORE clearance than stock because the stock pan has a bulge for the drain plug.
 

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Here's the ultimate test.... Flat board is being held diagonally across k-member front passenger front to bottom of steering box drivers rear.

Awesome!!
 

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Backside view...
 

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Well, there goes my fun money stash! New pan and windage tray are on the way. I was tired of the stupid oil leak anyway. Guess the new hotchkis rear leafs will have to wait a little longer.
 
So who's taking the plunge to try one in an early A-body? :smile:

I talked to a guy at Carlisle with a 65 Dart. He had one on and said he had to trim is K member a little but said it wasn't too bad.
 
Keep this up pal and I'm gonna have to hang your picture next to the one of John Wayne in my garage.

He should keep this up.. LOL.. ahaha,, This made my day


HaHaHa, thats good!
seriously, I saw the pan on mopax, nice work Steve. that pan is a nice piece and guaranteed one will find its way onto my valiant. I'm still gonna keep the accusump though... cheap insurance and great for cold starts after the car led lights manufacturer has sat for ages like mine is right now
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Seriously? thats awesome, I should find me some cheap insurance soon enough :D
 
Race-mart has the pan for 374.15$! Just call summit and have them match their price.
 
Steve, have you tried any of TTI's headers??? I don't think they'll fit as they hug a straight pan.
What exhaust type's have you tested fitment with??
Brian
My local machine shop did a 340/430 sbm strocker using this pan. Went in a demon using 1-7/8 tti headers and theyre 3" exhaust. Heard it was a tight fit but its in. Used a mini starter with it also. I saw the pan before it went on,very well made pan.
 
i like the looks of that pan,except one thing that i just cant understand,whats the point of that rear sump? looks like oil gets trapped there and is of no use what so ever.
 
i like the looks of that pan,except one thing that i just cant understand,whats the point of that rear sump? looks like oil gets trapped there and is of no use what so ever.


Milodon said that the small block oil pan has a very short rear sump wall. That allows oil to spill backwards out of the sump pickup under hard acceleration. Chrysler did this because the rear of the pan needed to be lower to clear the oil pump. Solution is to lower the sump down or make a cutout in the middle of the pan to increase the rear sump wall height. Also to install shelf or dam at the rear of the sump.

Here's the cutout in the middle with the rear section stock height to clear the oil pump

That is why you hear about some guys that will rub a hole in the back of their oil pans with a HV oil pump which is taller than stock. I bought a Dart with a 360 that had that problem.

The Milodon Lo-Pro small block mopar pans have the same feature.

Mildodon Low Pro pan #30936

MIL-30936.jpg


But you are right. The oil will sort of be trapped back there. But the oil pump will sit in most of that cut out back there. And with the action of the car, some will spill back in to the sump when new oil is showered down the back of the oil galley.

This isn't a pan for grandma's 318 2bbl 180hp 4 door Valiant. This is for a very high performance car that has more frequent oil changes and is taken care of much better.
 
will this new pan fit with hooker 5204 supercomp headers?
 
Well so far I'm really not too thrilled with the installation of my Milodon road race pan. It's on my 340, and going in to my '74 Duster (spool mount K).

I already knew I would have to set it straight in, so I installed the engine by itself first. This took two tries, because I figured the flywheel on the engine would be ok. Wrong. Not enough room to get onto the engine mounts, so for the 4 speed guys the install has to be done without the flywheel. Not a huge deal.

I noticed it was way tight on the drivers side engine mount, but this was dependent on the angle the engine was sitting at, and I figured it would be ok once the transmission and mounts were in. Wrong again. The pan hits the lower part of the engine mount on the K frame.

I do have poly inserts that replaced the original rubber in the spool mounts. And, the mounts are for a 318, using a spacer on the driver side. I figure one of these things is the issue. The engine sits pretty straight in the bay, but even a 1/4" would be more than enough to get clearance, so I guess its down the the little stuff. I ordered an engine mount from Autozone that's allegedly for a 340 and not a 318, so we'll see. Otherwise I'll have to drop the K back out and clearance it.

This is the driver's side engine mount from the bottom...
 

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I just can see this picture in my mind, meaning where that is exactly.
 
I just can see this picture in my mind

Can or can't? It's directly under the driver's side engine mount. The pan is notched there, but on my car it seems like it still sits too far forward. The front of the pan hits the back of the drivers side engine mount, pretty close to the bottom of the mount where it comes down to the K.

If I lift the tail of the transmission up to the top of the tunnel, I get about 3/16" clearance at the bottom. At rest it basically just touches, the pan isn't holding it up it just barely makes contact.

I think I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and drop the K again, I started to clearance the mount but I don't have enough room in the car to complete the notch.

:banghead:
 
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